FOR SALE: Doc's CNC Laser Cut Rear Sill Plate Inserts (set of 7 pieces)
Sold unfinished, as-cut by the CNC Laser from 1/16 inch thick aluminum:
Finished examples:
IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP! CNC Laser Cut 1/16 inch thick aluminum trim inserts to fit the molded recesses of 2003-2006 Chevrolet SSR REAR TAILGATE SILL PLATES exactly. (Sill plate is not included).
PM me for my new mailing address and contact information. Or, you can click on the link in my signature and go directly to my sales listings on eBay.
My SSR: SSR gone but still Redline Red aka TORCH RED!!!!!!
Just curious when the pieces are taken out of the larger piece how rough are the edges?? Do you have to sand/file? Also how easy is it to paint aluminum?
Just curious when the pieces are taken out of the larger piece how rough are the edges?? Do you have to sand/file? Also how easy is it to paint aluminum?
thanks Frank
You just twist the pieces back and forth and they pop out of the plate fairly easily. Each piece is only held in place by a tiny sliver of aluminum in a couple of spots. Those spots are easily touched up with a fine file or something like an emery board. It's easy.
If you want a brush texture, rub the piece in one direction only on Scotchbrite pads. If you want to buff and polish them, that's done with a buffer in the normal manner. You can scuff the surface with Scotchbrite and then prime and paint the pieces with aerosol.
If you don't think you can do it... find a buddy who is handy with tools.
What do you recommend for attachments? Glue, two sided tape or other?
I'd recommend automotive trim adhesive. And, make sure to clean the area where the pieces go into with Q Tips and something gentle like denatured alcohol to make sure there isn't any wax or oil in them.
On Eric's front spoiler I used windshield glue as he suggested and it worked great. On Doc's under hood letters he suggests using 3m weatherstrip adhevise. I got in a hurry and used silicone adhevise (cause I didn't have any 3m at the time) and so far no problem. Been about 3 weeks. Is there a reason silicone is not recommened? Drove another 50 miles yesterday and the letters are still there. Just curious would just as soon not have them fall off.
On Eric's front spoiler I used windshield glue as he suggested and it worked great. On Doc's under hood letters he suggests using 3m weatherstrip adhevise. I got in a hurry and used silicone adhevise (cause I didn't have any 3m at the time) and so far no problem. Been about 3 weeks. Is there a reason silicone is not recommened? Drove another 50 miles yesterday and the letters are still there. Just curious would just as soon not have them fall off.
I don't trust the silicone when it comes to the constant heat. (Maybe high-temp silicone would work.) I'm going to predict that it will fail. And, nothing else will stick to silicone very well including more silicone.
For everyone else... Please use the 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive for the under hood letters. It's permanent.
I got the SSR Letters and Bars today. Already have them polished and the "R" painted. They look GREAT!. I will install tomarrow. I used Rust-oleum Apple Red Spray, the color is very close to the "R" on the tailgate. Thank you.
__________________
It is hard being a Hyper Old Person!
My SSR: '03 #01155 Painted stripes, Flomaster, K&N air system, Port/polished Throttle Body, Custom Tuned
Doc
Just got my under hood SSR letters & rear tailgate sill pieces today.
Yesterday I took my under hood blanket off and painted it black, then today I installed the SSR letters & reinstalled the blanket under hood. It looks great!
Now I have to do is paint the "R" red and install the rear sill plate items.
Thanks for the nice pieces!
Here are the pictures you ask for. As I said I used Rust-olem Apple Red for the "R". I polished the rest. I made a polisher by using a vibrating sander. I put some paddng on the sander bed, covered with a soft cloth and locked the brackets down. You can use it with the sander turned upside down, or use a plastic garage bag as a base on the workbench. It will hold the small parts in place. I started with Dupont polishing compound and then Mothers Cleaning polish to fine polish. It gives a very high gloss. I then used Mothers Polish to remove the wax and put 4 coats of Liguid Glass. Used 3M 08008 to install.
__________________
It is hard being a Hyper Old Person!
Here are the pictures you ask for. As I said I used Rust-olem Apple Red for the "R". I polished the rest. I made a polisher by using a vibrating sander. I put some paddng on the sander bed, covered with a soft cloth and locked the brackets down. You can use it with the sander turned upside down, or use a plastic garage bag as a base on the workbench. It will hold the small parts in place. I started with Dupont polishing compound and then Mothers Cleaning polish to fine polish. It gives a very high gloss. I then used Mothers Polish to remove the wax and put 4 coats of Liguid Glass. Used 3M 08008 to install.
That's a really nice look Jack! I saved off a set of the photos. Thanks! There's never been anything like this except for some domed decals a Prowler guy used to make. I think the real metal is the way to go. And, as you noticed, they fit the recesses perfectly. I spent a lot of time getting the digital patterns just right. (That' one reason why it took me so long.)
I've been experimenting with a high strength clear adhesive that is strong and high heat resistant. It's called Valco HV-350™. I think that would do the trick also.
For high temperature adhesion-type applications, I use Permatex "Ultra Black" Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (PX #82180).
I've used all of the 3M adhesive tapes, and while they are good, in my personal experience, nothing works better in high temperature applications than a quailty hi-temp silicone, like this one. It's supposedly good to 500 deg.
I used silicone on the Hood Blanket and my letters fell off. I was lucky, the first one fell off in my driveway.
I used Gorilla Glue and they stayed in place until I had the blanket removed and put in stainless steel. Had the SSR letters transfered to the stainless and they used 3m doublesided.
My SSR: 05 Slingshot Auto # 20087 Brickyard Track Vehicle
rear bed sill
I had been asking Doc for ages if he ever thought of the inset letters for the rear tailgate sill after the great job on the under hood blanket ones.I have mine done with no car to fit them too.
I have the yellow SS and red R. The strips I highly polished with mequires metal polyish. They look fantastic. I I cleaned the area with some turps and attached them with small dots of super glue. Can't wait to fit them.thanks again Doc. vavoom
My SSR: 05 Blur-Mike in AZ fan,Mirrors,Trans Cooler,Trans Pan, Vette Servo-Eibach Springs, Joes Tune
Silicone
Quote:
Originally Posted by leav61
On Eric's front spoiler I used windshield glue as he suggested and it worked great. On Doc's under hood letters he suggests using 3m weatherstrip adhevise. I got in a hurry and used silicone adhevise (cause I didn't have any 3m at the time) and so far no problem. Been about 3 weeks. Is there a reason silicone is not recommened? Drove another 50 miles yesterday and the letters are still there. Just curious would just as soon not have them fall off.
I also used the silicone , it lasted about a week or two, used Docs suggested 3m weatherstrip and it has held for 2 years.
My SSR: '05 Redline Red SSR, Vin#114422, Born 09-01-04, Adopted 12-15-09, Tyler, Texas - "SMILIN' OUT LOUD"
Just installed my under hood letters yesterday with the 3m black and still have them tapped today,seems as the adhesive dries quite quickly though. will pull the tape off very carefully today. Cruiser George
Hey Doc, Will you be making the door sill inserts??? I think they would be a big hit..
I haven't made them mainly because the "bars" need to be half round rods instead of the flat ones the rear sill plate takes. But, you never know... I might some day.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
I don't trust the silicone when it comes to the constant heat. (Maybe high-temp silicone would work.) I'm going to predict that it will fail. And, nothing else will stick to silicone very well including more silicone.
SANDY
Linear Mode
