New Bright mirrors

[river_rat]

Trying to salvage a New Bright SSR from parts purchased here and on Ebay. Pretty much have a fully functional and decent looking truck at this point but am in need of mirrors. Would prefer a yellow set but any color could be painted to match. Would be willing to pay $25 for a good set including mailing to 77070 zip.

If I can't locate a good set, I could probably repair a broken mirror if it broken at the pivot stud. I currently have a potentally repairable broken drivers side. So at the minimum need a passenger side.

I haven't been able to find any RC replacement mirrors that are close to the right size or shape. Any New Bright SSR mirrors available out there???

[ibjeff]

C5 Corvette New Bright mirrors are exact match. You will just have to paint to match you color. Those R/Cs are still in stores.

[Scott 0168]

Originally Posted by river_rat

Trying to salvage a New Bright SSR from parts purchased here and on Ebay. Pretty much have a fully functional and decent looking truck at this point but am in need of mirrors. Would prefer a yellow set but any color could be painted to match. Would be willing to pay $25 for a good set including mailing to 77070 zip.

If I can't locate a good set, I could probably repair a broken mirror if it broken at the pivot stud. I currently have a potentally repairable broken drivers side. So at the minimum need a passenger side.

I haven't been able to find any RC replacement mirrors that are close to the right size or shape. Any New Bright SSR mirrors available out there???

Some of the SSR New Bright's came with a extrs set of mirrors! They were located in the passenger compartment.

[river_rat]

Finished my New Bright rebuild. Fortunately the older shell I had was the solid color plastic as opposed to painted so I could sand and buff out a lot of scratches and gouges. Swapped out the dead 27 Mhz board for 49 Mhz, repaired broken passenger door mounting post, removed stripes, buffed off the "New Bright" labels on the sides and labeling on the windshield/rear window, painted grill openings/tailpipes black, removed front license plate and finally customized rear license plate to match our full size R. Much appreciation goes out to Dane, James and Bob for help with providing parts as well as several Ebay sellers. I'm pleased with the final result. Also found that the SSR cargo organizer makes for an easy way to transport and store the RC truck.

[ibjeff]

Originally Posted by river_rat

Finished my New Bright rebuild. Fortunately the older shell I had was the solid color plastic as opposed to painted so I could sand and buff out a lot of scratches and gouges. Swapped out the dead 27 Mhz board for 49 Mhz, repaired broken passenger door mounting post, removed stripes, buffed off the "New Bright" labels on the sides and labeling on the windshield/rear window, painted grill openings/tailpipes black, removed front license plate and finally customized rear license plate to match our full size R. Much appreciation goes out to Dane, James and Bob for help with providing parts as well as several Ebay sellers. I'm pleased with the final result. Also found that the SSR cargo organizer makes for an easy way to transport and store the RC truck.

Great Job!

[pmattscheck]

Originally Posted by river_rat

Finished my New Bright rebuild. Fortunately the older shell I had was the solid color plastic as opposed to painted so I could sand and buff out a lot of scratches and gouges. Swapped out the dead 27 Mhz board for 49 Mhz, repaired broken passenger door mounting post, removed stripes, buffed off the "New Bright" labels on the sides and labeling on the windshield/rear window, painted grill openings/tailpipes black, removed front license plate and finally customized rear license plate to match our full size R. Much appreciation goes out to Dane, James and Bob for help with providing parts as well as several Ebay sellers. I'm pleased with the final result. Also found that the SSR cargo organizer makes for an easy way to transport and store the RC truck.

Awesome job....I have one of these and everything on it works except it will not turn. All the sounds work and it will go forward and back but the front wheels will not turn. I don't know if it is the Remote itself or the Truck. I have no idea what to do. Any suggestions?

Thank you, Phil

[river_rat]

Do the turn signals on the truck flash when you try turning? If so, then definiely not the remote. I don't have the demo cable, so don't know what its capability was or if it could be used to troubleshoot the wiring to the steering servo motor. The receiver board is under the truck bed floor and has several connectors that may need to be cleaned and reconnected. To get to the receiver you will have to take the shell off. To do that, remove both black plastic oversized bumpers, 2 screws in wheel well in front of front tires and 2 screws along each kick panel. Also need to pop the engine simulator plate off under the hood and cut the glue that holds the dash to the center console/floor pan. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of that glued joint but you can see where the brownish glue is on the rectangular joint sticking up from the transmission hump in the pictures below. There are two tabs on the dash that fit into the sides of that joint. You'll see this joint once the engine plate is removed. I just ran a box cutter along the glue to release that joint.

[river_rat]

Also forgot to thank JimBob for the instructions?

Phil if it looks like your remote is actually bad and if your truck is 49 MHz, I purchased the correct SSR remote from this Ebay seller last fall. He has a similar remote but it is multiband currently for sale. You may want to contact him to see if it will work with the SSR or if he still has any of the correct ones.

New Bright Remote

[pmattscheck]

Originally Posted by river_rat

Do the turn signals on the truck flash when you try turning? If so, then definiely not the remote. I don't have the demo cable, so don't know what its capability was or if it could be used to troubleshoot the wiring to the steering servo motor. The receiver board is under the truck bed floor and has several connectors that may need to be cleaned and reconnected. To get to the receiver you will have to take the shell off. To do that, remove both black plastic oversized bumpers, 2 screws in wheel well in front of front tires and 2 screws along each kick panel. Also need to pop the engine simulator plate off under the hood and cut the glue that holds the dash to the center console/floor pan. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of that glued joint but you can see where the brownish glue is on the rectangular joint sticking up from the transmission hump in the pictures below. There are two tabs on the dash that fit into the sides of that joint. You'll see this joint once the engine plate is removed. I just ran a box cutter along the glue to release that joint.

Thanks River Rat......I have a 27 Mhz controller and my son checked it for me and the turn signals do work but the wheels don't turn. So I agree that it probably is not the Remote. We opened up the body as you instructed and I couldn't find any thing wrong except the one brown looking circuit board shown in your picture #3 has something different on mine than yours. The small round blue thing on mine literaly looks like it exploded. The blue rapper on it is melted and the insides are hanging out. Since I have no idea what it is or does I don't know if that is the cause of the issue. I'm sure I won't be able to find a new circuit board so I guess in out of luck unless someone can explain what it is and how to replace it. Because it is melted I can't even tell what it was. Thanks for the help. Phil

[river_rat]

That component is an electrolytic capacitor. It is easily replacable and polarity sensitive when you replace. Since yours is probably unreadable, I'll try to see what value that cap is this weekend and get back to you. Most likely it will be available at Radio Shack or Frys. I don't have any schematics and am not that familiar with New Brights RC electronics but I think that brown circuit board is the speed control board for the main drive motor. I believe that the steering servo is controlled from the green circuit board. There are two connectors on the front of that board (behind driver's seat). Try to disconnect and reseat those connectors. If it still doesn't work, see if you can get to the steering servo and make sure all the wires are connected. I think you'll need to remove the grey floor pan to access (I didn't have to work on that item). Then you might check with a voltmeter on that servo and see if any power is getting to it when you use the remote to turn.

The steering servo is to the left (driver's side) of the speaker in pic#2 of post #7

[river_rat]

Phil

That electrolytic cap is a radial lead 220 uF 16 volt. Once you unsolder the old one, you should see what looks like a half moon on the silk screen of the pc board. The negative lead (marked on the side of the cap) goes to dark side of the moon (nearest to the grey ribbon cable). That cap should only cost you about $1 or less.

[pmattscheck]

Originally Posted by river_rat

Phil

That electrolytic cap is a radial lead 220 uF 16 volt. Once you unsolder the old one, you should see what looks like a half moon on the silk screen of the pc board. The negative lead (marked on the side of the cap) goes to dark side of the moon (nearest to the grey ribbon cable). That cap should only cost you about $1 or less.

Thank you so much......I hope that solves my issues.