Looking for input on clutch kits for 05-6spd.
SLP, HAYS, & CENTERFORCE are 3 I've been looking at.
Like the dual friction. Had a HAYS years ago in my 70 Nova. Had to do leg presses just to be able to hold the clutch in. Different world now.
Welcome Input on any others.
JTR
My SSR: 2006 FPR 6 speed Silver w/ Blue Flames by Juan Perlata www.airkolors.com
I just happened to meet the director for HorsePower sales at the dragstrip the other night... He was racing his Vette in the "Vette Challenge" he sponsored out there. I would have been running my SSR but the damn clutch stuck as usual so I didn't get any runs completed....
He gave me his card and said he had something aftermarket (I imagine he's selling to Vette owners with the same issues...) and that I should give him a call. I haven't decided to invest the money in an aftermarket yet, as my truck only has 16,000 miles and a lot of warranty left, and I only go out to the track maybe a couple times of year. If you'd like to call him, send me a pm and I'll give you his name and number. I'd be curious myself to know what he'll say.
You may also do a search on the Corvette forum and see what those guys are doing...
[SIZE="3"]I just happened to meet the director for HorsePower sales at the dragstrip the other night... He was racing his Vette in the "Vette Challenge" he sponsored out there. I would have been running my SSR but the damn clutch stuck as usual so I didn't get any runs completed....
]
Clutch sticking from rpms or heat?
Sending pm now.
JTR
My SSR: 05 6 speed black has a K&N cold air kit descreened and Diablo tuner & Eric's hood
I haven't had any problem since they replaced the clutch and I switch to the super dot 4 fluid. I flushed it 5 or 6 times and the color is staying the same now. 6500 RPM shifts and all it wants is more.
Tom
I'm at 5000 miles with an extended warranty....but would go aftermarket if the clutch is that good. I can't get on a highway or away from a traffic light without slippage & burning order. I got stuck on a street as I was trying to safely keep up with speed. No good.
My SSR: 2006 FPR 6 speed Silver w/ Blue Flames by Juan Perlata www.airkolors.com
Lucky you Tom... I just had the system flushed and had new superdot4 put in this week! I thought I was good to go. I did make the mistake of driving an hour to the track and only let it cool off for about 1/2 hour. I shoulda waited. To anwer luckydog, yes. If my truck is hot from running, the clutch sticks to the floor at high rpm's. Never sticks in normal driving. Only when I'm at the track and it's totally embarassing!
the clutch sticks to the floor at high rpm's. Never sticks in normal driving. Only when I'm at the track and it's totally embarassing! [/SIZE][/QUOTE]
I think the rpm clutch stick was addressed on another thread. The cause is the clutch builds too much centrifugal force & will not return until the rpm lowers.
Been on the phone w/Tom in N.C. He has an EXCELLENT aftermarket choice for high h/p SSRs. The RPS Street Twin Assy. Includes billet steel flywheel, balanced to 10,000rpm,is 20 lb. lighter than stock(which calculates to more rwhp),Does not include slave spacer. This assy. was designed for 800hp vettes & should comfortably hold to 725rwhp in our SSrs. Tom claims it should still retain very close to stock drivability.
Also have many other choices for stock engines.
Click this link for more details; Carolina Clutch and Performance, Inc.: Performance Clutches & Flywheels There is a 888 toll free # on the bottom of the page for more info.
Thank you Anne for your input. Your simple gesture has saved me hours of research. This will be the end of the line for my clutch assy. search. I have found what I was looking for.
JTR
I haven't had any problem since they replaced the clutch and I switch to the super dot 4 fluid. I flushed it 5 or 6 times and the color is staying the same now. 6500 RPM shifts and all it wants is more.
Tom
What is the exact part number or brand etc for the "super DOT 4"?
1Lucky
Are you going for it? It's an expensive deal but worth it if it works. I came close to getting a Carolina Clutch but chose to have it replaced under warranty. The warranty repair was a total waste of time & money.
[QUOTE=XSELER8;357541]1Lucky
Are you going for it?
Yes. It's just a matter of time. Things are getting very complicated for me. Now I have to plot a specific order for my build. I haven't moved past pg 36 in the supercharger book in 3 days. I keep getting side tracked.
It's an expensive deal but worth it if it works. I came close to getting a Carolina Clutch but chose to have it replaced under warranty. Total waste of time & money.[/QUOTE
Everyone has their own idea of what's expensive. I think of it as a stitch in time. I think the price is very reasonable.
I had a very specific Idea in mind, Anne tipped me off, & next thing I know it just fell into my lap.
PM sent
JTR
My SSR: 05 6 speed black has a K&N cold air kit descreened and Diablo tuner & Eric's hood
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lance
What is the exact part number or brand etc for the "super DOT 4"?
Sorry I took so long to get back to you.
I use Ford fluid # YS4Z-19542-AA it's in a 16 FL oz can
and is around $11.00 out the door.
Good luck it worked for me in the SSR and the wifes Trans Am. I also pulled the spring off the clutch pedal under the dash.
Tom
Looking for input on clutch kits for 05-6spd.
SLP, HAYS, & CENTERFORCE are 3 I've been looking at.
Like the dual friction. Had a HAYS years ago in my 70 Nova. Had to do leg presses just to be able to hold the clutch in. Different world now.
Welcome Input on any others.
JTR
McLeod makes a good product. I've bee running centerforce clutches and pressure plates since 1992 in my 1985 V8 S10. I dropped the first V8 in it with 165K on the vehicle. It's now reading 330K. The first motor went through two clutches. I wasn't happy with the second one and when I dropped a new crate motor in it 20K miles ago I went with a McLeod. There tech service dept is very friendly. When it comes time for clutch aftermarket hardware on mine I'll be looking to McLeod first. They also make some aftermarket hydraulic components as well.
Sorry I took so long to get back to you.
I use Ford fluid # YS4Z-19542-AA it's in a 16 FL oz can
and is around $11.00 out the door.
Good luck it worked for me in the SSR and the wifes Trans Am. I also pulled the spring off the clutch pedal under the dash.
Tom
My SSR: 2006 FPR 6 speed Silver w/ Blue Flames by Juan Perlata www.airkolors.com
Glad you got what your lookin' for Jim. I'd love to know the price for that... if that's not too rude to ask. Also please keep us posted on your metamorphosis. I'd especially like to know what your new clutch does for ya. Your build plans are sounding very exciting...
My SSR: 05 6 speed black has a K&N cold air kit descreened and Diablo tuner & Eric's hood
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Savini
There's a thread on this and I'll try and look it up in the morning when I get to work at 5:00 time for the rack for me.
Later
Couldn't sleep until I found this super dot 4 has a dry
boiling point of 500 degrees and a wet point of 356.
Standard dot 4 is 446 wet and 311 dry
All this came off the web sight of www.seinsystems.com/BrakeFluids.htm they have a big list
of high temp fluids.
Now I can sleep
the clutch sticks to the floor at high rpm's. Never sticks in normal driving. Only when I'm at the track and it's totally embarassing! [/SIZE]
I think the rpm clutch stick was addressed on another thread. The cause is the clutch builds too much centrifugal force & will not return until the rpm lowers.
Been on the phone w/Tom in N.C. He has an EXCELLENT aftermarket choice for high h/p SSRs. The RPS Street Twin Assy. Includes billet steel flywheel, balanced to 10,000rpm,is 20 lb. lighter than stock(which calculates to more rwhp),Does not include slave spacer. This assy. was designed for 800hp vettes & should comfortably hold to 725rwhp in our SSrs. Tom claims it should still retain very close to stock drivability.
Also have many other choices for stock engines.
Click this link for more details; Carolina Clutch and Performance, Inc.: Performance Clutches & Flywheels There is a 888 toll free # on the bottom of the page for more info.
Thank you Anne for your input. Your simple gesture has saved me hours of research. This will be the end of the line for my clutch assy. search. I have found what I was looking for.
JTR[/QUOTE]
I've gotta tell you, that seems like overkill to me. The LS2 isn't going to get anywhere near 10K RPM, let alone 7K.
If I'm driving it on the road, I don't want a "killer clutch" that has my left foot dancing on the pedal like it used to with a Rat motor and a Muncie - not a lot of fun. To each his own, but for my $.02, I'll burn up the stock clutches before I go back the the "Iron Man" clutch pedal.
If I'm driving it on the road, I don't want a "killer clutch" that has my left foot dancing on the pedal like it used to with a Rat motor and a Muncie - not a lot of fun. To each his own, but for my $.02, I'll burn up the stock clutches before I go back the the "Iron Man" clutch pedal.
Agreed Doug. There is no reason why a stock clutch shouldn't suffice. I abuse the Jeep...let's just say use it for what it was built for and raced the Mustang about 20 x's. Never a problem with either.
But the R stock clutches are worthless.( my original & the replacement) I never owned or saw anything like this. So...plan B is in order
I've gotta tell you, that seems like overkill to me. The LS2 isn't going to get anywhere near 10K RPM, let alone 7K.
If I'm driving it on the road, I don't want a "killer clutch" that has my left foot dancing on the pedal like it used to with a Rat motor and a Muncie - not a lot of fun. To each his own, but for my $.02, I'll burn up the stock clutches before I go back the the "Iron Man" clutch pedal. [/QUOTE]
Doug,
The quote you have from me is a quote from Anne.
10k seems to be a standard aftermarket balance. Still squashing numbers, I should be hitting around 7k if not higher.
Been there w/ a Muncie M-20 & 2800lb Hays, Iron man indeed. Not very street freindly. Bent the stock pushrod & had to replace w/ hardened steel bolt. Not the case w/ hydraulic clutches.
Tom at Carolina Clutches assures me the Street Twin is Very street driveable, & still capable of holding up to the weekend drag. The clutch center is 1lb aluminum. This lighter disc should keep us from losing our clutch to spin-out at high rpm. Don't let the weight fool you, it is very sturdy.
I don't think it is listed on the site yet. Don't mix this one up w/ the triple carbon (hang on to your wallet), I doubt any of us will have use for that one.
I'm getting trigger itch on this one. I may run & get it so I can post how it drives.
Thanks Doug & everyone else for your input. Keep posting. Every tidbit helps, not just me, but all R owners.
JTR
Couldn't sleep until I found this super dot 4 has a dry
boiling point of 500 degrees and a wet point of 356.
Standard dot 4 is 446 wet and 311 dry
All this came off the web sight of www.seinsystems.com/BrakeFluids.htm they have a big list
of high temp fluids.
Now I can sleep
I would recommend the Textralia clutch. I've heard there is a vendor seeling "textralia clutches", but they are not the real deal. The true Textralia clutch was developed for the LSx motors by our friends in Australia where they have some serious high HP cars. This clutch can handle nearly anything you can throw at it. Do a check on Corvette Forum to get the proper vendors for the clutch.
The best part of the clutch is that pedal feel is almost stock....
Did about an hours search on the net.
Always open to something better.
Not a lot of tech info on these brands. Keep in mind a 3000lb launch is not the same as a 4900lb.
If you have a couple of good links I will check them out.
JTR
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