got long tube headers? I need pics...

AndreS · 10-04-2010, 05:23 PM

I'm looking for pics of headers for the SSR installed on an engine both in and out of trucks.

Let me explain... I've been looking for headers to fit in an engine swap application (LS1/4L60E into an 88 Mazda RX7) for weeks now and I've ended up here after looking at the general design of the various headers out there....

I've searched and searched here for pics of headers on the SSR, but have only seen a few that have the collector in the corner of the pic, or the head flange/tubes at the top....

do you have long tube headers? what brand? can you post a few pics focusing on the headers?.... from above and below if possible.

I know many of you on here are extremely proud of your rigs... so please show them off!

jporter · 10-05-2010, 07:27 PM

I have the Kooks 1 7/8" long tube headers.
No pics, but they have some on their website. They sound great!

Topspin · 12-03-2010, 05:36 PM

AndreS, here are the pictures we discussed. I believe there is a maximum of 5 per post, so I'll have to divide them. This of course, is the driver's side and the closest to the bellhousing mounting surface, that you are concerned with. At the closest point there is only 1/2" of clearance between the tube and the block. I rolled the block over to show the tight clearance at the pan rail, also. There's only 3/8" clearance at that point. The whole primary bundle stays close to the block and is only 3.5" to the outside of the outboard tube.
These are Kooks 1 3/4" headers with Jet Hot Extreme Sterling coating applied.

Topspin · 12-03-2010, 05:50 PM

Now for the pass. side. The closest point on this side is About 3/4" right at the b. housing area, and there are no issues with the pan rail. The outward reach, of the bundle, is about 4.5".
My general feeling is that the headers are very well built, in terms of the actual fabrication. Unfortunately they also are very typical of the breed (street Headers), in that the primary tubes vary greatly in length. The difference from the shortest to longest is 6.5" on the dr. side, and 8.5" on the pass. side. Most race headers I've had made would have primary tubes within an inch of each other throughout the complete set. In a fendered street car you typically need removable tubes, that snake around a bit, to accomplish that goal.
Good Luck with your project!!

AndreS · 12-10-2010, 03:56 AM

Thanks for posting them! two views I'd really like to see is a full view from front and rear like the last pics in each of the sets. one new worry is if they'll clear the motor mounts.... they are c5 vette motor mounts that have been swapped side-to-side...
will the #2 cylinder tube clear? pics below

from the looks of it, the drivers side looks golden, (the best I've ever found for my application) the worry is about the passenger side hitting the frame rail, it looks like they come out a bit more than I thought... I'll take a measurement to see what space I have there...

AndreS · 12-10-2010, 03:59 AM

left side

AndreS · 12-21-2010, 03:08 AM

one more question, if you can help.... left side, the location of tube number one- measure from the front of the block to where it crosses the oil pan flange, then out from the block to the outside of the tube at that point

Cash · 12-21-2010, 11:05 AM

Great pictures as usual Topspin.
Maybe for the record you could edit into your first post the name, size etc of the headers you have pictured, or were they custom?

Thanks!

Topspin · 12-21-2010, 07:49 PM

Here are the other shots you wanted. I might be able to get the other measurement, though I'm not real certain if I understand what you're after?? Anyway I'll look at it one more time this weekend, then I've got to clear the engine stand for a new project.

xoxoxoBruce · 12-22-2010, 09:37 AM

Great reference material, thanks Topspin.

Topspin · 12-26-2010, 02:19 PM

Thanks, Bruce and $, but I can't imagine this is of much value to anyone but Andres.

Andres, I placed a straightedge across the pan rails and measured where it first contacted the #1 primary tube. That point was about 14 1/4" back (had to project a little as another tube was in the way) from the timing cover mounting surface. There's a square cast boss at that position, on the block, that I measured out from and the furthest point out was 6 1/4". Hope that's what you needed. By the way that's a pretty neat project. Where are you located?

AndreS · 04-30-2011, 03:27 AM

Topspin- I've spent many hours looking at the photos you took, I want to say thanks! after very careful measurement, I believe the left side is almost a direct fit (may have to cut a small pie section out of the crossmember). However, I'm bringing this thread up for a reason.....

Anyone with these headers the cylinder block has a machined square spot just above the starter, as noted with emphasis in green in these two pics... I have 5" between this point on the rear of the cylinder block and my frame rail, which is level with the top edge of this square block.

measuring horizontally, how far out is it to the outside of the tubes there???

504steve · 04-30-2011, 03:57 AM

Interesting swap... They sure don't give you a great amount of room where that rotary engine came out.

I can't give measurements at the time, but just wanted to say good luck with your project!

Also, if you still have that 1.3l 13B I may be interested, feel free to PM me.

xoxoxoBruce · 05-02-2011, 10:11 PM

I was over at the body shop, and one of the guys I see there a lot, was quacking about installing an LS-1 in a street rod International pickup. He was concerned about fitting the exhaust system, so I used the receptionist's computer to show him Topspin's pictures. The big lout actually did a happy dance.

AndreS · 08-05-2011, 10:10 PM

bumping this in hopes someone can get me a measurement... see post #12

505steve- the 13b is long long gone, about 6 years ago- when Hayes Rotary stole it, just before going bankrupt.

Topspin · 08-06-2011, 05:55 PM

As close as I can determine, it's about 6" to the outer most point of the last primary tube from the indicated block boss. That's not super precise, but I'd imagine it's close within a 1/4". Looks like you could massage that tube enough to make it work!

AndreS · 04-22-2012, 01:05 AM

Well folks, I'm back here to say thanks! Especially Topspin, for taking time to take the pics and measurements for me! You helped find the holy grail in these cars.... longtubes for a LSx swapped RX7 with an automatic!

We bought some OBX headers (knockoffs of the Kooks) and they fit like a glove! I did have to dent a couple tubes and cut two unused flanges off the crossmember, but we just finished installing them today after taking a long break from the project! The car will be on the street & drag strip by the end of this summer!

Pics installed here(more on pg. 2):
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=11561.0