Kooks Headers 1-7/8" with Maggie Question

[mlmcmc]

Hey Everyone!

I have an 2005 with a maggie. I want to put some Kooks Headers 1-7/8". Anyone know who has the best price out there? Or if someone recommends a different approach I am open to other opinions as well.

Also is there any of you that have adjusted the pulley size to compensate for loss of boost? If so details please...


Thanks you everyone for your input!

mlmcmc

[Mike in AZ]

I'll comment on the Kooks install.......

I recently helped install a set of Kooks with 1 7/8" primaries on a truck with an Automatic tranny. Your lack of transmission cooling lines will make it a little easier. They were monsters to get into the truck. There is just barely enough room to fit them in. Here's my "lessons learned":

• There is a power steering hose that wants to lean up against the #3 cylinder primary tube. There have been a number of hoses burned. It has to be "adjusted".
  
• Install the right (passenger) header first.
  
• You will probably need to pull the engine loose from the motor mounts and swing it fully to the driver's side to get enough clearance to get the passenger set in place. This is due to the fact that the engine is offset in the frame by about 2" to the right and leaves almost no room on that side.
  
• Be sure to get the dipstick tube and o-ring fully seated when you put it back into the pan.
  
• Use GM exhaust gaskets.
  
• Use nickel or copper anti-seize when installing the four oxygen sensors. You may have to heat them to get them out of your stock pipes.... be nice, they are about $75 each.
  
• Be sure that the heat shield on the starter solenoid stays put when you re-install the starter.
  
• Pay close attention to starter wire routing. There is not much room for the solenoid wire to clear the primaries. Burning the wire loom is common. If you burn through this wire, you will blow a 40a fuse in the fuse box and it will NOT start.
  
• Fabricate a heat shield for the driver's side cat to keep from overheating the anti-lock brake controller.
  
• Put some heat barrier material on the front side of the gas tank.
  
• Put some heat barrier on the bottom of the passenger floor above the cat.
  
• Put a heat shield between the 90 degree bend after the driver's cat and the fuel lines that are directly above it. The gas lines are plastic in that area.
  
• Ceramic coat the headers both inside and outside. You will need all the thermal barrier you can get when those primary tubes are flowing hard. The stock manifolds have some hefty heat shields to prevent cooking everything else in the engine compartment just for that reason.
  
• Be patient.

Just my two cents........... Maybe there are a few others that can offer some busted knuckle suggestions as well......

Regards,

Mike

[jporter]

Ditto with what Mike says. I have the Kooks 1 7/8", and have installed all his suggested heat shielding. There isn't much room for them, but they sure do perform well, and sound good. I would think their install would be easier with the Left Coast frame stiffener. It seemed to open up some space underneath. Maybe Joe, or Mike can confirm.
JP

[YellowDZH]

Sounds like a big job to me, that is the reason I have not put header on YELLOWDZH. I have had header on all of my other car, but not this one.

Good Luck

[hdflstf]

Why 1 7/8? 7 liter running 6k RPM all day long? Or are we talking 6 liter on the street where low end torque will help more than a little more power over 5000 rpm?

Not meant to offend anyone but the get people thinking since bigger isn't always better.

[MnMsToy]

Originally Posted by hdflstf

Why 1 7/8? 7 liter running 6k RPM all day long? Or are we talking 6 liter on the street where low end torque will help more than a little more power over 5000 rpm?

Not meant to offend anyone but the get people thinking since bigger isn't always better.

And WAY TO BIG is much wrose

[Mike in AZ]

I agree with Art......

If I was installing a set, my choice would be for the 1 3/4" Kooks. That 1/8" smaller tube is a great compromise thatt makes installation a lot easier. I doubt that a 6 liter with 8 lbs boost will know the difference below 5000 rpm. I actually think that the 1 3/4" headers will give you a little more low end torque.....

Regards,

Mikey

[wilddesertwolf]

I just completed a 1 7/8 headers on a 05 automatic. A couple of things that mike didn't mention about the install. At the time the headers were slid into place I had the intake and the heads removed. I don't know what maggie your running but if it's a 2300 it will have to be removed for sure. You will need to raise the motor as far as possible up untill it hits the tunnel' keep in mind that anything close to the cowel will have to be removed. If I recall I had to raise the motor about 6 inches. With everything I mentioned being removed it was still scraped alond the frame to get it into place. My recomendation is 1 3/4 headers unless your going for max horsepower down the road. These will easily support the stock application up to 10 lbs of boost. The motor will still need to be raised they slide in much easier. Requires about half the effort to install.

Best of luck on whatever decesion you make

Hank

[mlmcmc]

Ok.... so i have decided to go with the 1 3/4 inch. Now for the fun part. Installation

Can anyone help me on the install... go from the top? the bottom? Do i have to break the engine loss from the mounts? Does the maggie have to come off to allow room to lift the engine?

I am fairly handy however I have never done headers before so if there is an insight anyone can give it is greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

I also went ahead and got the corsa sport exhaust that i am pretty excited about i think the combination is going to be nice.