My SSR: 2004 Yellow, Auto, 456 Gears, Corvette Servo, Custom Tune, Flowmasters 40, BIG Cam
need camshaft tips on install
Not a big fan of re-inventing the wheel, that's why Ijust purchased the z06 camshaft for the 2004 r. Should have it on Tuesday. The horsepower "Guru's" of this sight aare awesome with sharing their opinions.
Looking for tips and tricks.
here's what I bought so far:
Cam shaft GM Part# 12565308
dampner pulley bolt
NEED
Timing gear / chain set. (not sure which one to buy) Looks like you can spent 60.00 or 200.00 HELP
I have the vette servo in tranny
456 gears
custom tune, (may need another?)
What else do I need to complete this install
Tips or tricks other than cutting the half moon out of the radiator support?
My SSR: 2004 Yellow, Auto, 456 Gears, Corvette Servo, Custom Tune, Flowmasters 40, BIG Cam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topspin
bgetz, is this your first time through for a cam install? If it is it would influence the advice I would offer.
First time for a cam install. I'm reading everything I can find on this sight in preparation. I'm going to perform the teardown and reassembly. My buddy who pretty busy at this time will swing by to put the finishing touches on the upper end and start it. He will also be checking on my progress during.
I'll do a little at a time over the course of 3 or 4 evenings, whatever it takes.
If I get stuck somewhere, I'll just stop if he isn't around. Not in any hurry. I just want to do it right the first time.
Sooner or later I'll get it, just looking for (and have found) things to watch out for.
Thank You
PS I'm taking it today to have the freon removed from the aid conditioning system.
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
You mentioned a timing set. Buy the best true roller set your budget will allow. Summit has a very nice looking set with billet steel gears for $130. It's very difficult to access, so you only want to do it once!
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
I'll just throw some random things at you as they come to mind. You'll need a 3 jaw puller for the balancer. An air hose and sparkplug fitting and compressor to change springs. Depending on the mileage, changing the valve seals is a real good idea while you're looking right at them. You'll need a valve spring compressor also. If you need one, I have a neat compressor just for the Gen 3 motors. PM me if you want to borrow it along with the air hose. It's light weight and compact so not much shipping involved. Personally if I was reusing the stock rockers I'd replace the hold down bolts. More later, I'm in the middle of a major plumbing job!
My SSR: '04 Purple (Penelope)#3438 1st '04 Production UV and '06 blue over silver auto, #22851 #5 0f 32
Three things I did when I went to the z06 cam in Penelope were…..
LS6 “beehive” valve springs; part number 12586484, or an equivalent or better aftermarket springs are a must. The reason the springs are needed is that the stock springs in the 04 SSR are too weak to work with the more aggressive cam. The stock valve spring retainers are acceptable, but if titanium ones are available; you might consider substituting them as extra protection against high rpm valve float.
2002 z06 pushrods or an equivalent or better are recommended as well.. The reason the 02 Z06 pushrods are required is that the base circle of the Z06 cam is smaller in order to accommodate the increased lift over the stock cam. This requires longer pushrods to maintain correct valvetrain geometry.
A change from factory single row timing chain to a stronger aftermarket dual row chain and matching pulleys is made to improve the high rpm reliability of the timing chain. A Rollmaster replacement kit (chain and pulleys) was purchased from eBay.
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" Isn't it great to live in a society where the penalty for lying to a congressman can be up to 30 years in jail, but the penalty for a congressman lying to you is another two years in office. "
My SSR: 2004 Yellow, Auto, 456 Gears, Corvette Servo, Custom Tune, Flowmasters 40, BIG Cam
Still have the freon in it
Have the puller, buddy has the sparkplug fitting, valve spring compressor. I have the compressor.
I have 23k miles (referencing the seals)
The hold down bolts are a great idea, I wouldn't have thought of that.
I need to wait about 3 weeks for more cash . I think I'll tear down next weekend.
I'm adding to the list
Thank You.....
\
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topspin
I'll just throw some random things at you as they come to mind. You'll need a 3 jaw puller for the balancer. An air hose and sparkplug fitting and compressor to change springs. Depending on the mileage, changing the valve seals is a real good idea while you're looking right at them. You'll need a valve spring compressor also. If you need one, I have a neat compressor just for the Gen 3 motors. PM me if you want to borrow it along with the air hose. It's light weight and compact so not much shipping involved. Personally if I was reusing the stock rockers I'd replace the hold down bolts. More later, I'm in the middle of a major plumbing job!
One item no one has mentioned yet is a flywheel holding tool. It's a must-have to hold the crankshaft from turning as you loosen and re-tighten the balancer bolt. The bell housing on the 4L60E is a 360 degree design. No good way to wedge anything in to hold the flywheel. This tool bolts in place of the starter and engages the teeth on the flywheel to keep everything from turning. Makes it a lot easier. It's a Kent Moore tool part no. J-42386-A.
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2005 Slingshot Yellow 1SB No 16549 - 12.59 et @ 107.35
2000 Silverado 5.3 Step-Side PU - Daily Driver
1957 Chevy BelAir Street Rod - 10.65 et
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
To AusTex's point, there is a specific tool I bought (either Jegs or Summit), with three fingers and a hole through the center, that will hold the balancer itself while you torque the bolt. A little easier than pulling the starter, but some cost involved. Possibly a rental item at an auto parts place. Here's a picture in case you want to make something.
My SSR: 04 redline #5545 1sb, Mpd boards chin spoiler lowered, magna charger ,full trunk trim, chrome wheels
On this mornings power block on spike tv out of Atlanta they did a cam install and rockker on the ls series , Check your listings as it probably is on a few more times today
2002 z06 pushrods or an equivalent or better are recommended as well.. The reason the 02 Z06 pushrods are required is that the base circle of the Z06 cam is smaller in order to accommodate the increased lift over the stock cam. This requires longer pushrods to maintain correct valvetrain geometry.
Sorry Ed but this is incorrect about the push rod length,the push rods are all the same length. the push rods for the LS1,LS2, LS6 and LM4 are all the same GM part number10238852
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30 years GM tech
20 years GM master tech
04 Yellow
My SSR: 2004 Yellow, Auto, 456 Gears, Corvette Servo, Custom Tune, Flowmasters 40, BIG Cam
[QUOTE=wingrider;653963]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Penelope
2002 z06 pushrods or an equivalent or better are recommended as well.. The reason the 02 Z06 pushrods are required is that the base circle of the Z06 cam is smaller in order to accommodate the increased lift over the stock cam. This requires longer pushrods to maintain correct valvetrain geometry.
Sorry Ed but this is incorrect about the push rod length,the push rods are all the same length. the push rods for the LS1,LS2, LS6 and LM4 are all the same GM part number10238852
My SSR: '04 Purple (Penelope)#3438 1st '04 Production UV and '06 blue over silver auto, #22851 #5 0f 32
[QUOTE=wingrider;653963]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Penelope
2002 z06 pushrods or an equivalent or better are recommended as well.. The reason the 02 Z06 pushrods are required is that the base circle of the Z06 cam is smaller in order to accommodate the increased lift over the stock cam. This requires longer pushrods to maintain correct valvetrain geometry.
Sorry Ed but this is incorrect about the push rod length,the push rods are all the same length. the push rods for the LS1,LS2, LS6 and LM4 are all the same GM part number10238852
Bill...you mean I bought those titanium pushrods when I didn't need to??? That's gonna save someone some money even though they were reccommended to me.
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" Isn't it great to live in a society where the penalty for lying to a congressman can be up to 30 years in jail, but the penalty for a congressman lying to you is another two years in office. "
The push rods you installed are better than OEM so you didn't do anything wrong with using them. I was just pointing out that all these engines use the same rod. I installed the 02 LS6 cam and used the original push rods and have had no problems.
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30 years GM tech
20 years GM master tech
04 Yellow
that ballancer bolt is on there with 240 ft. lbs and that big ass shoulder is bonded with locktight on the back side and is a devil to break free.If and when you get tired of busting your knuckles,get a torch and heat that sucker up a bit to break the adhesive bond.
Oh, and by the way, cutting a half moon from the radiator suppor is the easiest way I know (and safest) Iv'e heared horror stories of guys jacking the engine and breaking stuff like crank position sensor terminals and such. But I'm lazy.
Don't forget to remove your pushrods and take "all" the pressure off the lifters before rotating the cam to "Set" the lifters.There is also a tool that looks like two long rods that go into the block to retain the lifters.
Now, that being said, The hardest thing about the whole job is getting the oil pump out of the way to install your new timing chain and gears.The pinion is behind the pump so it has to go.Now, you can remove the oil pan like the book says but, have you looked at what must be done to accomplish that?I don't want to scare you but thats too much like work for me.Remember I'm lazy.Or, with alot of patience, you can grind a 10mm box wrench real thin on the walls and heat bend it to the shape to get it on the bolt that you can't see without a mirror, using a strong magnet on a stick to remove the bolt that locks the pick up tube into position.Once that is done you can pull the pump and go about the rest of the job.It's a good idea to replace it with a high volume pump anyway.To put it back on you need to get a piece of 14 gauge copper wire and wrap the bolt a couple of times in the direction of the thread to get it into position to turn it with your custom wrench. Once you have several turns on the bolt simply yank the wire off and then tighten the rest of the way.It's a challanging job for the shadetree mechanic but with patience and attention to detail, it will be a rewarding one.
Location: Elko, and Las Vegas, Depending on how cold it is outside or how hot.
Posts: 49
My SSR: 04, Slingshot Yellow, Signature color naturally..License plate CRUISSR
Dear 53wanab:
I've been watching your post with great interest. I, too have a "04 and would most likely have Garth in Vegas do the Job.. It's over my head, or it would seem. Question: Approx how many labor hours is involved in this job. I'm trying to calculate how much a cam "out the door" would run with labor at around $100. hr. seems like the going rate.
Thanks.. RLCulster
You are getting a lot of good information and the LS6 is a good cam for the 04, One thing GET BETTER VALVE SPRINGS than you think you will need, I got my engine together and New Comp roller rockers, Hi rev chrome molly push rods and titanium retainers and went with Comp beehive springs, Well off to the dyno and one of the beehive springs was weak and broke the retainer and that titanium went all through the engine, Evey thing was shot, A piece even got in the piston and cut the block up, It even got the heads, Talk about being sick
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. I think I'll tear down next weekend. 
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