Slicks most of this info will be for you but others might find it interesting. The Cold Fusion kit is # 05168NOS the owners manual and install guide is P/N 199R10361. I mounted the bottle in the bed and inside my left saddle bag with the supplied mounting brackets. If you pull the bedliner out there is a rubber plug behind the drivers side (still inside the bed). You can run the stainless steel line thru it and up under the vehicle. You'll have to drill a small hole in your saddle bag to run the line thru. I then threaded mine thru the left side box frame and up into the engine compartment where it will go into the solenoid. Another line comes off the fuel rail and to the fuel solenoid. There is already a plug in the fuel line on the passengers side of the throttle body that it will screw right in to. I mounted the nitrous and fuel solenoids next to each other with the supplied plate on the bracket that holds the alternator. Both solenoids then go to the nitrous plate that goes between the MAF and the throttle plate. All of this is easy stuff and if you have any mechanical skills it's a breeze. Install guide is very clear and all you have to decide is where and what size jets to use (there is a recommendation guide that is quite good). I recommend you start with 25 HP setting first and go up from there il you're satisfied. I usually keep the 100shot in mine because I'm comfortable with it. The hardest part for me was running the electrical wiring. I made it hard by my choice of where to put my toggle switches. On the center console and in front of the trans shifter. It was a pain but esthetically pleasing. The kit also comes with the gas peddle switch you will have to mount. It will require drilling a small hole is the gas pedal bracket to mount the switch. I also elected to purchase an electric bottle opener so that I could open the bottle from my drivers seat versus getting out and opening everthing up to turn the bottle on. You can get these everywhere (JEGS, SUMMIT to name a few). I've taken a bunch of pictures and I'm working on getting them downloaded from my camera and placed on line. I may not be tech savvy enuff to do that we'll see.
PS purple is where it's at! Just to stir the pot a bit. For Topspin: I still haven't done the Edelbrock intake...might go with LSX intake.
Slicks: Not smart enuff to get pixs on. send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll send you the pics.
Last edited by spook; 09-24-2010 at 10:03 AM.
Reason: more info
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
Hey Spook, good to hear from you and nice info on the Nitrous! Yep that LSX intake would be a much simpler swap, and FAST has a good reputation for sure.
Maybe your thread is a good place to throw out some general info for those that have never run nitrous before. Maintaining a constant bottle pressure is difficult but has the advantage of a much more consistent shot. If the bottle is mounted in an enclosed area the pressure is going to vary greatly. In fact make sure the pressure relief is vented outside the rear compartment. Always mount a pressure gauge on the bottle and monitor it for 900 - 1000 psi. A Hobbs switch with a low fuel pressure warning light is also a real good idea. You can even wire your arming switch through it to kill the whole system at a given fuel pressure. Most engine damage is done because of insufficient fuel pressure. With our high pressure fuel injected engines, the more probable failure would probably come from insufficient fuel pressure to the injecters. So, maybe monitoring the high pressure side of the system is also a good idea. A lot of people mount a purge solenoid to the nitrous side. I always ran a momentary switch to the whole system instead and hit it to purge both the nitrous and fuel solenoids and check the "free rev". I noted how high the engine revved when pressures and mixtures were correct and then could see, when the free rev differed, that the ratio had gone lean or rich. If too rich the engine will stumble and not rev at all. If too lean it will rev rapidly to redline. A nice taper off in the 4000 to 5000 rpm range is a good fuel safe setup.
Great additions Topspin. Thx bruce for posting for me...I think I'm a computer idiot sometimes. Of course my wife will just tell you I'm an idiot period. Topspin I'll P{M you sometime this weekend about the intakes. Didn't realize the LSX comes in 3 versions.
Great Slicks...glad it helped. I will tell you that this was really easy to do. I'm not a nitrous guy. I've always dealt with turbo stuff. If I can get in on the next supercharger "special" I will, but I'm going to keep a little nitrous in it anyway because of the cooling qualities when you are running the motor hard. Later my friend!
I forgot to add that I have a computer chip that turns the system on at 3000RPM and off at 6000RPM. So to recap
1) a cockpit switch to arm the sytem
2) a cockpit switch to open the bottle
3) a gas pedal mounted switch to engage the system under WOT conditions.
4) a chip to allow nitrous dispersal only between 3000 and 6000 engine RPM
My SSR: 2003 Redline, SuperChip, OBX Headers, High Flow Cats, Dynomax VT, K&N Cold Air, 4:56 gears
So the switch on the pedal will engage the system as soon as you put your foot on it. Not like a switch in a carb setup were you can set it up for WOT.. Correct?
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
Slicks, that kit should work just fine. As far as a throttle switch goes, there are lots of options. You can use a button switch on the shift lever that allows instant on - off control. There are timers that allow delaying the hit, and there are progressive controllers that allow proportioning the system on slowly. Be VERY careful of the bottle pressure, as there have been recent bottle explosions that have maimed and even killed. Those bottles need to be re-certified over time!
Well at the risk of being immediately jumped on I'll make this statement...LS motors are LS motors. With the exception of cams and heads and piston size they are really all the same. With machine work you can pretty much (notice I say pretty much) make them look the same. So in short yes that kit will and does work. I look on a nitrous bottle like I do my dive tank. Every year I get both checked for corrosion and pressure check. It's minimal money for peace of mind. Sorry I'm late to respond but I was at my lake house fishing. Oh and slicks yes when you put your foot in it but only if you have the cockpit switch also armed. So if you don't have the cockpit armed WOT will just give you Naturally aspirated acceleration.
Last edited by spook; 10-09-2010 at 08:54 PM.
Reason: to add info
My SSR: 2003 Redline, SuperChip, OBX Headers, High Flow Cats, Dynomax VT, K&N Cold Air, 4:56 gears
Quote:
Originally Posted by spook
Well at the risk of being immediately jumped on I'll make this statement...LS motors are LS motors. With the exception of cams and heads and piston size they are really all the same. With machine work you can pretty much (notice I say pretty much) make them look the same. So in short yes that kit will and does work. I look on a nitrous bottle like I do my dive tank. Every year I get both checked for corrosion and pressure check. It's minimal money for peace of mind. Sorry I'm late to respond but I was at my lake house fishing. Oh and slicks yes when you put your foot in it but only if you have the cockpit switch also armed. So if you don't have the cockpit armed WOT will just give you Naturally aspirated acceleration.
Does this kit come with the throttle switch and everything or is there additional things to get other then maybe a remote bottle opener.?
Oh gosh slicks it's been a while since I did it. As I recall the throttle switch is included. Bottle opener is not. I ran the two toggle switches but I think I had them in my inventory so I just wired them in sequence. If you are happy with your everyday performance and just occassionally want to put someone in their place or go for a track day this is really a great and inexpensive way to go. The added benefit for me is that on trips if i want to run regular gas I can. I can't with a turbo or a SC. Nitrous gets a bum rap a lot of times for huge engine damage and in 99% of the time a poorly tuned engine or an additional engine problem is the overall catalyst. I've had mine for over 3 years and never had a problem. I check my compression every year and take a look at things like plugs etc. It's just my own little safety check.
Bruce you are probably dead on. I have to admit I was a little apprehesive on my application. But if you go to drag events or to Japanese car tuner events there are some really knowledgable kids out there that can steer you in great directions (some knuckleheads too so beware). The first time I shot over a 100 into the motor it actually kind of scared me. The "come on" was so quick and RPM rose so rapidly it was incredible. I ran a 12.49 once at Red River raceway with a 120 shot in it but have never duplicated the time. In part because I'll never again match the 0.0p01 launch time. If I could afford the complete drive train conversion I would love to have a 750 HP LSX motor put in this truck...I just love driving this thing but it will never be the mover I would like it to be based mainly on the weight and the limited amount of torque the differential will hold up to. I contemplated buying a wrecked one to build on, with fiberglass panels/hood and the electric top removed...but probably way more money and time than I wish to spend. The dollars needed to stay in the 11's is probably quite great. I'm getting to the age where just riding around with sound is becoming enjoyable.
My SSR: 2003 Redline, SuperChip, OBX Headers, High Flow Cats, Dynomax VT, K&N Cold Air, 4:56 gears
Quote:
Originally Posted by spook
Bruce you are probably dead on. I have to admit I was a little apprehesive on my application. But if you go to drag events or to Japanese car tuner events there are some really knowledgable kids out there that can steer you in great directions (some knuckleheads too so beware). The first time I shot over a 100 into the motor it actually kind of scared me. The "come on" was so quick and RPM rose so rapidly it was incredible. I ran a 12.49 once at Red River raceway with a 120 shot in it but have never duplicated the time. In part because I'll never again match the 0.0p01 launch time. If I could afford the complete drive train conversion I would love to have a 750 HP LSX motor put in this truck...I just love driving this thing but it will never be the mover I would like it to be based mainly on the weight and the limited amount of torque the differential will hold up to. I contemplated buying a wrecked one to build on, with fiberglass panels/hood and the electric top removed...but probably way more money and time than I wish to spend. The dollars needed to stay in the 11's is probably quite great. I'm getting to the age where just riding around with sound is becoming enjoyable.
5.3 block with worked LS-6 heads, cam, headers, duals and a host of minor upgrades that I have posted elsewhere in this forum. I'm running 1:85 ratio roller rockers that were ill advised by some but that have worked great. Slicks I know some will cry BS on a lot of this and I don't care. I've done alot of this stuff myself with just a little patience. I ported and polished my own throttle body and opened my air box with a dremel. Closed off the air box with insulation both around the box and behind (in between the air box and the motor). Lots of stuff that would take me a long time to list it all. One day I'll sit down and list all the mods but it's too labor intensive for now. I hope I've provided you some insight if not necessarily an answer for your own upgrade thoughts. I'd be lying if I didn't tell you that I'm scared to death that I might do something to cause the ECU to go bonkers on me...but so far so good.
hsw kit is the one i use on ssrs sprays 360 degrees nice set up
__________________
Have questions about your SSR suspension? I'm around 24/7 to answer any questions my name is Tony feel free to give me a call 415 519 2432 or tony@tbssowners.com and yes 24/7 means just that.
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PS purple is where it's at! Just to stir the pot a bit. For Topspin: I still haven't done the Edelbrock intake...might go with LSX intake.
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