OBX Headers

slicks2003 · 10-26-2010, 10:18 PM

Well, my OBX headers and high flowing cats came today. I have had many headers on many cars over the past 30 years. Everything from Summit brand, Headman and Top of the line Hooker Super Comp. These headers are VERY VERY good quality. Welds are excellent, finish is outstanding, flanges are nice and thick (straight as an arrow) and everything is high quality.

I still need to install them which I'm going to start next week. But, so far I would not hesitate to purchase them again.

hpjunky · 10-26-2010, 10:30 PM

are you going to jet coat them??

slicks2003 · 10-26-2010, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hpjunky

are you going to jet coat them??

Nope, leaving them as is, polished stainless stl.

MoodyBlue · 10-26-2010, 11:11 PM

Very nice.

Mike in AZ · 10-27-2010, 05:34 AM

There are several types of headers that have been installed on SSRs. I recently assisted in the install of a set of Kooks with 1 7/8" primaries. They were monsters to get into the truck. These look like they may be a little easier, since they seem to be a simpler design..... but all of the headers have some similar issues.

Here's some of my recommendations:

There is a power steering hose that wants to lean up against the #3 cylinder primary tube. There have been a number of hoses burned. It has to be "adjusted".
Install the right (passenger) header first.
You may need to pull the engine loose from the motor mounts and swing it fully to the driver's side to get enough clearance to get the passenger set in place. This is due to the fact that the engine is offset in the frame by about 2" to the right and leaves almost no room on that side.
Be sure to get the dipstick tube and o-ring fully seated when you put it back into the pan.
Use GM exhaust gaskets.
Use nickel or copper anti-seize when installing the four oxygen sensors. I didn't see any bosses on the collectors for the upstream sensors, but I'm sure it was just the positioning for photos that hid them from view.
Be sure that the heat shield on the starter solenoid stays put when you re-install the starter.
Pay close attention to starter wire routing. There is not much room for the solenoid wire to clear the primaries. Burning the wire loom is common. If you burn through this wire, you will blow a 40a fuse in the fuse box and it will NOT start.
Fabricate a heat shield for the driver's side cat to keep from overheating the anti-lock brake controller.
Put some heat barrier material on the front side of the gas tank.
Put some heat barrier on the bottom of the passenger floor above the cat.
Put a heat shield between the 90 degree bend after the driver's cat and the fuel lines that are directly above it. The gas lines are plastic in that area.
Ceramic coat the headers both inside and outside. You will need all the thermal barrier you can get when those primary tubes are flowing hard. The stock manifolds have some hefty heat shields to prevent cooking everything else in the engine compartment just for that reason.
Be patient.

Just my two cents........... Maybe there are a few others that can offer some busted knuckle suggestions as well......

Regards,

Mike

slicks2003 · 10-27-2010, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

There are several types of headers that have been installed on SSRs. I recently assisted in the install of a set of Kooks with 1 7/8" primaries. They were monsters to get into the truck. These look like they may be a little easier, since they seem to be a simpler design..... but all of the headers have some similar issues.

Here's some of my recommendations:

There is a power steering hose that wants to lean up against the #3 cylinder primary tube. There have been a number of hoses burned. It has to be "adjusted".
Install the right (passenger) header first.
You may need to pull the engine loose from the motor mounts and swing it fully to the driver's side to get enough clearance to get the passenger set in place. This is due to the fact that the engine is offset in the frame by about 2" to the right and leaves almost no room on that side.
Be sure to get the dipstick tube and o-ring fully seated when you put it back into the pan.
Use GM exhaust gaskets.
Use nickel or copper anti-seize when installing the four oxygen sensors. I didn't see any bosses on the collectors for the upstream sensors, but I'm sure it was just the positioning for photos that hid them from view.
Be sure that the heat shield on the starter solenoid stays put when you re-install the starter.
Pay close attention to starter wire routing. There is not much room for the solenoid wire to clear the primaries. Burning the wire loom is common. If you burn through this wire, you will blow a 40a fuse in the fuse box and it will NOT start.
Fabricate a heat shield for the driver's side cat to keep from overheating the anti-lock brake controller.
Put some heat barrier material on the front side of the gas tank.
Put some heat barrier on the bottom of the passenger floor above the cat.
Put a heat shield between the 90 degree bend after the driver's cat and the fuel lines that are directly above it. The gas lines are plastic in that area.
Ceramic coat the headers both inside and outside. You will need all the thermal barrier you can get when those primary tubes are flowing hard. The stock manifolds have some hefty heat shields to prevent cooking everything else in the engine compartment just for that reason.
Be patient.

Just my two cents........... Maybe there are a few others that can offer some busted knuckle suggestions as well......

Regards,

Mike

Thanks for the input Mike

So I guess getting them ceramic coated is the way to go for heat concerns? And you're correct, the oxygen sensors are there.

Also, can you or anyone recommend a place that does good work for the ceramic coating?

Mike in AZ · 10-27-2010, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slicks2003

..... can you or anyone recommend a place that does good work for the ceramic coating?

Most powder coating shops will have the ability to do ceramic. The processes are related. If you were in Phoenix, I could recommend a good local shop.

I would recommend going with any of the 2700 degree coatings. There are only a few colors available and they are not as pretty as the tumbled and polished jet coating, but will certianly not turn white like them either. The polished jet coated headers you see that have turned white have exceeded the 1800F rating on the material. Personally, I like the titanium color on the headers.

Mike

slicks2003 · 10-27-2010, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

Most powder coating shops will have the ability to do ceramic. The processes are related. If you were in Phoenix, I could recommend a good local shop.

I would recommend going with any of the 2700 degree coatings. There are only a few colors available and they are not as pretty as the tumbled and polished jet coating, but will certianly not turn white like them either. The polished jet coated headers you see that have turned white have exceeded the 1800F rating on the material. Personally, I like the titanium color on the headers.

Mike

what about header wraps you can get from places like Summit racing? I have heard pros and cons about it.

Mike in AZ · 10-27-2010, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slicks2003

what about header wraps you can get from places like Summit racing? I have heard pros and cons about it.

Header wraps are a great solution for some applications, especially on race cars. They are fine if you have room. We don't have much available and it might be really hard to get them installed cleanly. Go for it, if you think you can pull it off.

I have never been satisfied with any of my own wrap jobs. They always look like an ameteur did it...... even at my best, it was not "pretty".

Mike

slicks2003 · 10-27-2010, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

Header wraps are a great solution for some applications, especially on race cars. They are fine if you have room. We don't have much available and it might be really hard to get them installed cleanly. Go for it, if you think you can pull it off.

I have never been satisfied with any of my own wrap jobs. They always look like an ameteur did it...... even at my best, it was not "pretty".

Mike

Well, I just got a quote from a place local, $250... Never had a set done, always purchased it coated already. This sound like a fair price? He said he can coat the primaries as well, just the first maybe 12 inches from the flange into the primary tube.

MnMsToy · 10-27-2010, 08:21 AM

slicks2003, was that $250.00 to ceramic coat the headers on the inside too?

PS: Great looking headers.......

slicks2003 · 10-27-2010, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MnMsToy

slicks2003, was that $250.00 to ceramic coat the headers on the inside too?

PS: Great looking headers.......

Yes but only about 12 inches into the primary tubes.

slicks2003 · 10-27-2010, 11:45 AM

Just dropped them off to get coated Titanium ceramic. I'll post some pics when I get them back in about a week to ten days.

The Ceramic coating is called Cerakote and the color I picked is Titanium as shown below.

hdflstf · 10-27-2010, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slicks2003

Just dropped them off to get coated Titanium ceramic. I'll post some pics when I get them back in about a week to ten days.

The Ceramic coating is called Cerakote and the color I picked is Titanium as shown below.

Nice. Looking forward to seeing the results.

slicks2003 · 10-27-2010, 07:47 PM

Question Mike

I have a Kwiklift that will raise the bottom of the tires of the SSR 20 inches off the ground (remember, that's from the bottom of the tire not from the bottom of the chassis). Is this enough clearance? Also can the passenger side header be fed from the top if I remove the radiator reservoir, if not is the clearance using my lift enough for feeding it from the bottom?

This is my Kwiklift

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

There are several types of headers that have been installed on SSRs. I recently assisted in the install of a set of Kooks with 1 7/8" primaries. They were monsters to get into the truck. These look like they may be a little easier, since they seem to be a simpler design..... but all of the headers have some similar issues.

Here's some of my recommendations:

There is a power steering hose that wants to lean up against the #3 cylinder primary tube. There have been a number of hoses burned. It has to be "adjusted".
Install the right (passenger) header first.
You may need to pull the engine loose from the motor mounts and swing it fully to the driver's side to get enough clearance to get the passenger set in place. This is due to the fact that the engine is offset in the frame by about 2" to the right and leaves almost no room on that side.
Be sure to get the dipstick tube and o-ring fully seated when you put it back into the pan.
Use GM exhaust gaskets.
Use nickel or copper anti-seize when installing the four oxygen sensors. I didn't see any bosses on the collectors for the upstream sensors, but I'm sure it was just the positioning for photos that hid them from view.
Be sure that the heat shield on the starter solenoid stays put when you re-install the starter.
Pay close attention to starter wire routing. There is not much room for the solenoid wire to clear the primaries. Burning the wire loom is common. If you burn through this wire, you will blow a 40a fuse in the fuse box and it will NOT start.
Fabricate a heat shield for the driver's side cat to keep from overheating the anti-lock brake controller.
Put some heat barrier material on the front side of the gas tank.
Put some heat barrier on the bottom of the passenger floor above the cat.
Put a heat shield between the 90 degree bend after the driver's cat and the fuel lines that are directly above it. The gas lines are plastic in that area.
Ceramic coat the headers both inside and outside. You will need all the thermal barrier you can get when those primary tubes are flowing hard. The stock manifolds have some hefty heat shields to prevent cooking everything else in the engine compartment just for that reason.
Be patient.

Just my two cents........... Maybe there are a few others that can offer some busted knuckle suggestions as well......

Regards,

Mike

Mike in AZ · 10-27-2010, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slicks2003

Question Mike

I have a Kwiklift that will raise the bottom of the tires of the SSR 20 inches off the ground (remember, that's from the bottom of the tire not from the bottom of the chassis). Is this enough clearance? Also can the passenger side header be fed from the top if I remove the radiator reservoir, if not is the clearance using my lift enough for feeding it from the bottom?

This is my Kwiklift

Yes. You only need about 12" of clearance to bring them in from the bottom. My neighbor used to put his Viper on his Kwiklift to clean the undercarriage. I always though it was an innovative tool.. let us know how it does for you.

Mike

slicks2003 · 10-27-2010, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

Yes. You only need about 12" of clearance to bring them in from the bottom. My neighbor used to put his Viper on his Kwiklift to clean the undercarriage. I always though it was an innovative tool.. let us know how it does for you.

Mike

Two more questions, the starter needs to be removed in order to install the pass side? Also, when I was under there just looking things over. I took a quick look and saw what I think are three bolts that need to be removed from the bottom of the motor mount. This correct? Was kind of tight under there, I don't have it up on the lift yet to get a good clear look.

MICKEYS · 10-28-2010, 06:08 AM

Just installed a set of these on the WISSRD from the bottom on drivers side and from the top on the passengers. Was pleased with install but agree with Mike gets close in some places so heat shields are needed

slicks2003 · 10-28-2010, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MICKEYS

Just installed a set of these on the WISSRD from the bottom on drivers side and from the top on the passengers. Was pleased with install but agree with Mike gets close in some places so heat shields are needed

Can you give me any other info as to the install? Did you have to raise the pass side of the engine to get it in for example? Were did you install heat shields?

slicks2003 · 11-24-2010, 03:13 PM

Ttt

Garys05SSR · 11-24-2010, 07:19 PM

I reused the heat shields from the original converters/exhaust to cover the new converters. I also cut the back 1/2" off the tranny mount for clearance to the crossover pipe and heat shielding. Very time consuming project..... I used lots of heat shielding for ABS, fuel lines, knock sensor wiring, starter, converters, and rear of tranny. You need lots of patience/time for this project. My $.02.

slicks2003 · 11-24-2010, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garys05SSR

I also cut the back 1/2" off the tranny mount for clearance to the crossover pipe and heat shielding.

I was planning on re-using all the shielding. What did you have too cut? Not sure I understand.

slicks2003 · 11-25-2010, 05:51 AM

Here's the headers coated in Titanium Ceramic. I did not go for the extra cash for anything polished, don't really see them anyway. Starting the install tomorrow.

MnMsToy · 11-25-2010, 06:43 AM

Great looking headers.

hdflstf · 11-25-2010, 09:03 AM

They look really nice without the polish!

Garys05SSR · 11-25-2010, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slicks2003

I was planning on re-using all the shielding. What did you have too cut? Not sure I understand.

I reused all the existing heat shielding I could except for 2 pieces around the O2 sensors. For some reason the 1 3/4" KOOKS that crosses under the rear 6 speed transmission mount was hitting, I took the mount and cut 1/2" off to the rear and the 3" KOOKS crossover would clear. I have not seen that anybody had this problem before. You are limited on how far the drivers side KOOKS pipe can go to the back before it crosses to the KOOKS passenger side pipe. I hope I explained this well enough. I have personally installed over 100 headers systems on Vettes, Vipers, Prowlers and a 04 SSR that I had and this was the most time consuming and very poor in directions....my $.02.

slicks2003 · 11-27-2010, 06:39 AM

Well, I'm about 1/2 to 2/3's done. Had to replace the starter, I broke the solenoid, don't ask. Looking into maybe installing the corvette servo wile I have the exhaust out. Not sure I need to drop the tranny cross member out to drop it down. I don't know if there is enough room between the ssr floor and the tranny to get the servo assy out.

Anyone?

slicks2003 · 11-28-2010, 01:04 PM

All done, some of the pictures are not great, it was hard to get good pics. Took a total of 12 hours to install. I used all the old shielding which worked out great! Under the hood, nothing is even close to the headers. In most areas there is no less then an inch clearance, some of the pics make it look MUCH closer but, its really not (The plugs of course is not the case). At an idle the sound is a bit different and a little more pronounced.. Out on the open road I don't know how it sounds yet, I still need to install my spare tire conversion. I'm waiting on my battery box from Mike before I install that then I'll take it for s spin. So for now it will stay on the lift.

When I had it all apart , I installed new wires and Bosch PLATINUM +4 plugs. I also installed a new starter. I broke the main power stud off the solenoid (don't ask). So, just replaced the starter. Now I'll never need to mess with it. I still need to get some stainless steel screw clamps to replace the wire holding the shielding in place.

MnMsToy · 11-28-2010, 03:08 PM

Nice job. What is the story on the ceramic coating called Cerakote. Do you still need heat shields with the coating?

slicks2003 · 11-28-2010, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MnMsToy

Nice job. What is the story on the ceramic coating called Cerakote. Do you still need heat shields with the coating?

Well, the coating should reduce the heat temps under the hood due to the headers. Looking at everything under the hood, I don't see the need for the shields. I still have them and can modify them to fit if I need to.

I don't have any experience with SSR's and headers. I'll let others chime in regarding under hood temps. It also has allot to do with how much HP your making. I would not think a 5.3 in the 350 HP range is going to be an issue.