If you SSR is an auto and you want to upgrade to the 14bolt rear end with the 4:10 gear raito, good news. The Trailblazer SS rear end is a bolt in. The drive shaft will need to be shortened and the rear yoke/u joint changed. also if you have the Hotchkis sway bar you should order the new one. The rear end comes complete with rotors and calipers which are the same as the SSR. I reinstalled my drilled/slotted/painted rotors and calipers on the new rear end. You will also need to order the U joint strap, the one off the 10 bolt will not work. The stock 10 bolt doesn't have any sensors on it, so the 2 sensors on the TBSS are not used. Also The T/C should work like stock. The P/N is 15796955 with a list price of $2785. Got mine from Frank Belk for $2145. Plus tax -- (Thanks again Frank)
Glad to hear it worked out so well with the change-over.
__________________ http://www.leftcoast32.com
'07 TrailBlazer SS LSX390 "TVS2300" 18.5 psi
1015 HP and 936 TQ at 6400 RPM's Authorized MagnaCharger Dealer/Distributor
Ya - Joe and I have been talking about me doing the swap for the last 6 months. Had hoped that someone else would have tryed it first. found a few of the 14 bolts from the SSR - all used and pulled from wrecks - with an asking price of $1000. to 1500.. So by the time you swapped the gears the cost would have been about the same. Have to thank Joe for talking me into doing it.
Ross - I didnt have to twist your arm too hard. I cannt wait to see how it will effect traction with your SSR. We need to get together again real soon.
__________________ http://www.leftcoast32.com
'07 TrailBlazer SS LSX390 "TVS2300" 18.5 psi
1015 HP and 936 TQ at 6400 RPM's Authorized MagnaCharger Dealer/Distributor
Ignoring the robustness change from the Torsen to the beefier Eaton rear axle..... Ross, you really needed that!
If you look at the math involved with the change-over, you will see that this is the simplest and cleanest performance improvement you can make.
The numerical difference between the two is almost exactly 10%. That is (4.10-3.73)/3.73 = 0.0992 or roughly 10%.
Here are some of the results:
1) At any speed in any gear, you will have 10% more RPM showing on your tach. If you look at your tach much, you will find that this is NOT going to tax the engine. (reference my avatar)
2) You will increase the numerical advantage of the ring and pinion by 10%. This means that you will have 10% more rear wheel torque for the same driveshaft torque. Torque is what moves the truck, but if you are hung up on HP..... The horsepower gain at the rear wheels is only a calculation away... HP = (torque x rpm)/5252.
3) The driveshaft and transmission loads are decreased by 10%. This is a no-brainer.
4) The computer won't care. Torque management is focused on limiting the torque through the transmission, not at the rear wheels. It doesn't know you changed the rear torque multiplier.
5) Engine efficiencies will be better. By operating a little closer to the peak efficiency area (usually above 2500 rpm), you may actually see a slight increase in gas mileage..... but you gotta get your foot out of it first.
For performance improvement, I think changing rear axle ratio is the most bang for the buck.
And YES, Jim G. is right ...... the 4.56 calculates to be 20% more torque multiplication than the 3.73. Your main consideration for that change, is to ask yourself if you are willing to have 20% higher engine rpms for any given speed.
My preference is to the 4.10.... but that is MY preference.
Ross, you did a really good thing here!!!
Regards,
Mike
__________________ Trust and Generosity are contagious.
Several of the members that have come over for the 4.10 gears and computer flash have noted an increase of .5 MPG after the 4.10 gears.
__________________ http://www.leftcoast32.com
'07 TrailBlazer SS LSX390 "TVS2300" 18.5 psi
1015 HP and 936 TQ at 6400 RPM's Authorized MagnaCharger Dealer/Distributor
I still have not seen the second generation support. I really expected it Thursday or Friday. My supplier was tied up pretty tight in the last week. He's doing me a big favor on the design of this part and I hate to bug him, so I will be patient.
How's the performance difference with the new gears???
MIke
__________________ Trust and Generosity are contagious.
Mike & SSR 05 - thanks for the input - I have the 2005 automatic as well and will start looking for someone in the Portland, OR area to do the rearend mod.
Anyone out there have any recomendations for dealers/speed shops who you have dealt with in the past??
I just recently upgraded my rear to 4:56 gears, mine came with the 14 bolt, Is that just a 6-speed thing?
What did the 4.56 change do to 1st gear? And as long as I'm asking, how has your gas mileage been affected due to the change, and keeping your foot in it after the change?
Doug Allen: Fuel ileage impacts of the re-gearing are surprisingly good. Do a search using "fuel mileage" for some of my posts over the past year or more. I did very carefull controleld tests with multiple segments, both directions, etc.
Doug Allen: Fuel ileage impacts of the re-gearing are surprisingly good. Do a search using "fuel mileage" for some of my posts over the past year or more. I did very carefull controleld tests with multiple segments, both directions, etc.
Jim G
Jim,
I've done that - I just wanted to see what Freddy's experience has been - no disrespect intended. Thanks for the input.
Location: About as far East as you can go before you hit salt water.
Posts: 2,638
My SSR: 2005 Allstate 400 Pace SSR #2 of 2 Built
Drive Shaft
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross
no one wants to work this weekend, so no drive shaft yet. should have it by next weekend. will need to brake it in before i do any "testing"
Did you have a new drive shaft made or did you have yours modified? If the company that makes the replacement drive shaft for the SSR makes both for the auto and six speed. I wonder if DENNIS REINHART DYNOTECH could make one for the auto to the six speed rear end as a special part. HINT HINT
For automatic transmision owners to switch gears to 4:10's, 14 bolt rear end and a "tinkless" drive shaft for under 3K. What a deal.
Charlie - The drive shaft needs to be shortened 11/16". The dynotech shaft is made with .095" wall tubing, so be sure who ever does it, can work with it. Inland Empire Driveline only works with .125" wall tubing. Found this out after they cut the Dynotech shaft. Dennis could order the new driveshaft, but it would take a while to get it.
I havent been driving it enough yet. My SSR has always gotten good milage (compared to My Ford 4x4) The performance more than makes up for any milage loss. I always felt that I had to slip the clutch too much when starting in first. Even at highway speeds in 6th gear she still pulls hard and the RPM's in 6th have only changed by 200 to 300 RPM. Best perfomance gain for the money...
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Drive Shaft
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