Oppps.... Thank's Bruce, for setting me straight...... I never knew
That's a cool gingle Geoff! Thank's my friend for the your kind words, I'll make them for those that would like a set. It's not like I all ready don't have enough irons in the fire. Hey!!! Did you install the Diablo yet?
Jeff, Boyd's informed me that my wheels were going out yesterday, and I should see them in the middle of next week.
Well..... I finished my first set, and I'm very pleased with them....
I went out to the Geerage and slipped one on BLACKIE. NO SLOP OR PLAY AT ALL Unlike the bushing that was from the factory. I can not speak for the tolerancess of GM's new delrin replacement. These are dead nuts and on the money. I still have to adjust the length to accommodate the flat washer that will be used on the outside of the outward shielded bearing and the "C" clip, that holds the roller on the shaft.
In looking at the grooves that are on my stock rollers, one groove is not quite a 1/4" away from the shoulder. The other side was about 7/16 " away from the shoulder. I'll make all of the rollers now with the same size shoulder on both sides, so they can be flipped if they so need to be due to grooves. This will also add strength to the outward bearing. Delrin is a very tuff plastic, and grooves should not be a issue. I can tell you this..... That these rollers that came out of the Geerage, roll forever..... Just like a "Hot Dog Rollin Down The Hall Way"
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
Very nice work, Blackster!! McMaster-Carr sells Delrin rod in black, if you wanted to keep the stock look. Concerning your slot drag racing, do they use a pro tree (all 3 yellows on at once) or a sequential tree? And most importantly are delay boxes legal?!
Oppps.... Thank's Bruce, for setting me straight...... I never knew
That's a cool gingle Geoff! Thank's my friend for the your kind words, I'll make them for those that would like a set. It's not like I all ready don't have enough irons in the fire. Hey!!! Did you install the Diablo yet?
Jeff, Boyd's informed me that my wheels were going out yesterday, and I should see them in the middle of next week.
Well..... I finished my first set, and I'm very pleased with them....
I went out to the Geerage and slipped one on BLACKIE. NO SLOP OR PLAY AT ALL Unlike the bushing that was from the factory. I can not speak for the tolerancess of GM's new delrin replacement. These are dead nuts and on the money. I still have to adjust the length to accommodate the flat washer that will be used on the outside of the outward shielded bearing and the "C" clip, that holds the roller on the shaft.
In looking at the grooves that are on my stock rollers, one groove is not quite a 1/4" away from the shoulder. The other side was about 7/16 " away from the shoulder. I'll make all of the rollers now with the same size shoulder on both sides, so they can be flipped if they so need to be due to grooves. This will also add strength to the outward bearing. Delrin is a very tuff plastic, and grooves should not be a issue. I can tell you this..... That these rollers that came out of the Geerage, roll forever..... Just like a "Hot Dog Rollin Down The Hall Way"
BLACKIE
That is cool. If you would like to sell a set PM me your address and price.
What a pleasant surprise, it's great to hear from you! I hope you are enjoying your week-end Thank's for your kind words and the heads-up A company called "TRIX TRAX" has copied the 1:1 drag format down to 1/24 scale. They (The Drag guys) run both styles of trees depending on the class, along with bracket/break out classes. It's just too bad there's no NITRO/RUBBER smells too add to the 1/24 gig! They have the NOISE though, 12 volt DC motors running on 18-24 volts DC (Cat battery's)
Oh.... I almost forget Ken, there is the smell thing going on.... The smell of a motor puking on the voltage that these motors are desinged to run on As far as a delay box goes.... I have one at the end of my hand.... My thumb and a finger, they seem to delay my ride more then I want
Thank's for the infoe on where to get black delrin Smitty.... I have been dying plastic now for many, many years......
It's quite simple really..... Some RIT liquid dye (Color of your choice) a pot you do not care about. Throw your pieces in the pot, add some liquid dye and a splash of water and boil for about ten minutes and your are done.....
Sure "MnMsToy" & "Shiftz33" I'll make you a set..... Just not right now! You will pay for materials and shipping and that's it. My time is free to my fellow SSR friends.... As they say ...."What goes around.... Comes around" Maybe one of these days you can help me out.
My SSR: 2004 Smokin' Asphalt #8480 - Born April 15, 2004 - Adopted March 1, 2010 - K&N,Diablo, WindsuppreSSR
Enjoying watching you work...
Dave, I am just in awe of your work on those bushings! IF I had one of those lathes (you'll have to give me the details on that some day...), I might be able to muddle though it, but I think there would be a significant amount of... ummmmm... WASTE! I'll have to take a look at mine and see if I need to get on the waiting list
I got the Diablo installed, but really haven't had time to play with it or the settings. Between work and weather, it just hasn't been happening! The documentation with it is really pathetic... I will need to dig through their forums to figure out what each of the settings do and which parameters to mess with I'm just running the 87 Octane setting now, as I still have 1/2 tank of regular gas... I want to try the high-zoot program, but that will have to wait. I really notice a kick on the upshifts. It downshifts at the drop of a pedal and feels generally a bit livelier. I thought it would get rid of the bog off the line, but doesn't seem to... I noticed the fan coming on sooner, so I guess they adjusted that in their prefab program. I'll have to figure out exactly what it is set to and decide if I need to do more. I'll probably call that phone number that was in the box and see what Mike has to say.
Geoff
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I'm glad you found that piece of paper in there with Mike's number on it. I'm sorry, I forgot to tell you about it From what I've read about the unit, and from the those that have installed it . That the 91 tune is the one to use, now that you have the 87 tune in there you will be able to report your findings first hand once you install the 91 tune!
As far as the rollers go, there's a set with your name on them when you need um the lathe thing is like anything else.... There will be waste until you get it down.... Then it's like tying your shoes! Well Geoff, Boyd's sent me a few pictures of my wheels that just might show up today .....
I like um, they will fit right in with retro look of a SSR and go along with the black paint & silver trim. Remember...... It's that Blonde/ Brunette thing going on.
I'm glad you found that piece of paper in there with Mike's number on it. I'm sorry, I forgot to tell you about it From what I've read about the unit, and from the those that have installed it . That the 91 tune is the one to use, now that you have the 87 tune in there you will be able to report your findings first hand once you install the 91 tune!
As far as the rollers go, there's a set with your name on them when you need um the lathe thing is like anything else.... There will be waste until you get it down.... Then it's like tying your shoes! Well Geoff, Boyd's sent me a few pictures of my wheels that just might show up today .....
I like um, they will fit right in with retro look of a SSR and go along with the black paint & silver trim. Remember...... It's that Blonde/ Brunette thing going on.
Dang good looking wheels.
Question, I don't see where the valve stem goes.
I agree - damned fine looking wheel. They should be way over the top with the knockoffs.
Valve stems are sometimes mounted on the backside of custom wheels. Hopefully Blackie got shorty valve stems on the bevelled part of the wheel.
I was talked into using the small "button" valves on the flat surface on mine. Bad idea!!!! Once the holes had been cut, I was committed. They require an extension to be screwed in to inflate. Total pain in the posterior. Don't inflate worth poop, difficult to use, and if you ever took off forgetting to remove the extension, your day is probably done.
Not to mention if you need to air up a tire after running the truck, the back of your hand will look like it ran through a Burger King grille from touching the rotor.
Having them in the recessed flat area also interfered with the band holding the tire pressure sender.
I've had repairs done on two tires, and replaced the button valves with EXTREMELY stubby valve stems used on ATVs. Rears weren't a problem, but with the 19" fronts, and the valve cap screwed in extremely tight, I probably couldn't get a postage stamp in between the brake caliper and the stem.
Note for Blackie - PM me if you are thinking of using the button valves.
__________________
Tis better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all
10567 Slingshot May 04 - March 06
Sig #23 May 07 - Sept 09
24092 Pac Blue Nov 07 - Oct 08
Sig #12 Aug 2008 - Aug 2010
Didn't know they had such small "button" valves.
Having such a valve, can you just picture an little ol' lady from Pasadena pulling in to a service station to have her tires check.
Didn't know they had such small "button" valves.
Having such a valve, can you just picture an little ol' lady from Pasadena pulling in to a service station to have her tires check.
My SSR: 2004 Smokin' Asphalt #8480 - Born April 15, 2004 - Adopted March 1, 2010 - K&N,Diablo, WindsuppreSSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by "BLACKIE"
I'm glad you found that piece of paper in there with Mike's number on it. I'm sorry, I forgot to tell you about it From what I've read about the unit, and from the those that have installed it . That the 91 tune is the one to use, now that you have the 87 tune in there you will be able to report your findings first hand once you install the 91 tune!
As far as the rollers go, there's a set with your name on them when you need um the lathe thing is like anything else.... There will be waste until you get it down.... Then it's like tying your shoes! Well Geoff, Boyd's sent me a few pictures of my wheels that just might show up today I like um, they will fit right in with retro look of a SSR and go along with the black paint & silver trim. Remember...... It's that Blonde/ Brunette thing going on.l
Hey Blackie... No problem on the piece of paper. I remember you telling me about it, so when I saw it, I knew Have to find a little time to do ALL the research before I play too much! This has far more options than does my SuperChips programmer for my diesel
Love, love, love the wheels! They will certainly compliment the satin, but add just a bit of flash ...yeah, that Blonde/Brunette thing I like your taste!
_________
My SSR: UV SSR My other SS is a 64 Malibu LA built Black Plate Car
Blackie and Company
Blackie
Nice work on the rollers. On another note: Does any one have the GM correct part number for the roller. I ASSumed the GM bulletin for PN # 15775860 was the worn roller on my 04. Wrong!
Any help out there? GM parts computer/counter guys are no help. as the tonneau latch/lock doesn't exist in the parts book.
JimBob
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Pm for info on Stainless Steel Air Dams & Sidepipes
JimBob
I will pass all of them kind words along to Boyds, they did a vantastic job on the wheels! You are right FLASH about them flush valve stems..... They are a PAIN IN THE...! I have them on my dune buggy I have to agree with you also FLASH on the knock-offs, they should fit right into the big picture. Jeff, they stuck them valve stems on the inside of the wheel out of harm's way.
This sucks now because.... You will not be able to see my SSR valve caps I hear you Geoff, that was my main gole .... Not to add too much flash to my rig do to it's color. I agree with you 100% on it's just enough to be right JimBob, I gave that part # number to CHASE the other day and it came up as a roller.... That is on back order. The bulletin # is correct also. That's all I know about it. Remember MOODY..... My T/C is now always "OFF"
My wheels showed up to my door on Friday! I had to work Saturday so there was no tire mounting going on this week-end. I can say this..... That them wheels look a whole lot better in the the flesh, then in them pictures that I posted. They are just plain BAD looking, I mean that in the good way. I'll get them mounted up the first of the week. Today, I went to the "KINGDON DRAGS" in Lodi, Ca.
Back in the 50's/60's "KINGDON" was a widely used drag strip in these parts of NORCAL. Then it was closed and used for small aircraft and crop dusters. About 5 years ago a group got together and made a proposal to the city of Lodi. The group would run a annual drag race and all proceeds would go to the city of Lodi's various charities programs to help the needy! It's been a hit and get's bigger and bigger every year! Saturday is the day to go, along with all the drag racing going on.
There's a dance after the drags shut down and if that's not enough for you, one can go on Lodi's famous "WINE TRAIL" some of the best grapes are grown right in Lodi. Not Napa nor Paso Robles or anywhere else for that matter in Ca. I made it to the gig today though, and had a great time. Even though my bud, Steve told me I missed alot of cool "VINTAGE DRAG'N" and a way cool dance/get together! He reminded me all day long.
CHECK THIS OUT!!! A SSR in the gruge racing/run for fun! It's a '06 with a auto.....
It was not the the fastest by any means..... It ran a 17.32 @ 97 MPH in the 1/4 mile. It was still way cool because it was the ONLY SSR that made the gig!
Some pictures ......
My Buddy, Steve Zunino and his '49 Caddy.....
Lot's of trick stuff on this ride, the body was mounted to a modern full size Caddy frame and is powered by a Chevy 502 with complete power everything from the doors/windows/trunk/seats.....
He's thinking of getting a SSR, he's liking the blue hue. He likes the black one's for sure....But he already knows there's a few of them running around up here in these parts.
Originally Posted by BLACKIE";795657]THANKS "[B][COLOR="Sienna
DOOPHUS[/COLOR][/B]"
For your kind words also the one option that came with BLACKIE was a cargo bar and net..... Go figure? Any who..... I have it, and I use the net without the bar. Now that I have the hard bags installed, I just hook the net to the tailgate eyes and to the mounting eyes for the hard bags, and I'm good to go! I like the net, so I picked up a new "spare" on E-Pay for $40.00
Ya know "DOOPHUS"..... I was surprised to get that plate some 5 1/2 years later after BLACKIE rolled off the assembly line. After all, this is California where all of the smart SSR owners live. Right? Then again......What do I know?
For your kinds words .... One has to remember here..... Not to open the hood by it's emblem the emblem in time, will become broken
Today, I took the "rock guards" off my rear fenders. Some nice paint under them guards! Pulling the guards off is no biggie, just start at the top with both hands on each side and start pulling them off. When you get to the bottom .... Just give the guard a twist and the bottom clip will release it's self.
Now, you will have the 3M tape to deal with that is stuck to the rear fenders, that held the guards on. There's NO thinners that will remove the double sided stickum tape in any reasonable amount of time.You can use your thumb/finger(s) and be there for a long, long time.(still quicker then any thinners) Or, you can go to a well stocked auto body paint supply house and get one of these.....
.... It will remove all of the tape/stickum in a matter of minutes, and not leave any marks on your clear coat! NORTON part # 636425-05624 I'll post some pictures showing the before/after of the removal of the rock guards and THAT tape later on today.
It work's great! Here's a picture with all of the tape removed with the wheel.....
There's no visible marks left on the clear coat by the wheel at all. Just the line around the rock guard left on the fender from the years of washing/waxing/polishing etc. I'll remove this line here as soon as I get off the computer.
First though, I'll have to remove the running boards to get to the rest of the TAPE ....
I'm glad I could help your bud's out With the wheel chucked in a drill (You can use a electric drill) BUT..... NO HI SPEED DIE GRINDERS are to be used with this wheel, as per the instructions....
I removed the TAPE from the bottom side of the rocker panel and then went through the Zaino process.....
The results speak for them self.....
I have the passenger side still to block sand with 2500 wet/dry sandpaper. In using the Zaino process on my BLACK TRUCK thus far.... All I can say is what other's have told me..... SWEET LOOKING BLACK PAINT! Yes.... I know that the Zaino process requries some work/elbow grease! As my Dad always told me when I was a wipper snapper.... "Nothing comes easy son." The results that I have uptained from using Zaino on my rig are nothing short of speachless
Yep..... My rock guards are in bad shape.....
I will be repainting them and installing them back on the rear fenders.... Just because they belong there.
Originally Posted by BLACKIE";898691]That's cool Bruce....
I'm glad I could help your bud's out ;) With the wheel chucked in a drill (You can use a electric drill) BUT..... [B][COLOR="Red
NO HI SPEED DIE GRINDERS[/COLOR][/B] are to be used with this wheel, as per the instructions....
I removed the TAPE from the bottom side of the rocker panel and then went through the Zaino process.....
The results speak for them self.....
I have the passenger side still to block sand with 2500 wet/dry sandpaper. In using the Zaino process on my BLACK TRUCK thus far.... All I can say is what other's have told me..... SWEET LOOKING BLACK PAINT! Yes.... I know that the Zaino process requries some work/elbow grease! As my Dad always told me when I was a wipper snapper.... "Nothing comes easy son." The results that I have uptained from using Zaino on my rig are nothing short of speachless
Yep..... My rock guards are in bad shape.....
I will be repainting them and installing them back on the rear fenders.... Just because they belong there.
Yes.... I know that the Zaino process requries some work/elbow grease!
This is the first time I've seen anybody say that Zaino requires some work/elbow grease!
From earlier testimonies by other Fanatic, I was under the impression it was easy stuff to work with ... guess they all requires some work/elbow grease!
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
Hey "Black Magic", nice work on the fenders! Your new hoops will be Stunning on that black jewel. Yep, I haven't been around much, as us Michiganders get out and enjoy the limited summer we get. I'm Sorry I missed your call and I thought I sent you a PM, to that effect, but when I looked in my out box it wasn't there - I expect I forgot to hit Send and deleted it! Loved the pics from Kingdon, especially the front motored diggers and the flip body Topolino! We ran a 51 Henry J for years in Super Gas. Hey, hope you caught the multi page spread in Hot Rod on the Kingdon Drags - it's the Nov. issue. Great write up on Poteet too! Here's a shot of our old Rambler, while I was in the file. Keep Flogging!
Ya know Jeff, I'm sure Zaino is easy to apply as stated by others that have used the product. I only know one way to hand wax a ride.... The harder I bare down while waxing, the better the shine. This all started back when I was in the CORPS, as I was handed a raw brass belt buckle and some newspaper.
I was told (I mean ordered) that it had to look like gold by the end of boot camp for graduation, mine did.
"Smitty" I dig your "J" But.... Your NASH rocks!!!
..... Man-O-Man that's back in the day, sweet burney! Bring's back some great memories of the AMC racers that competed in the tuff "Pro Stock Wars" and did their fare share of damage to the "BIG 3" Mr. Booth, Mr. Maskins & Mr. Aron are the racers that come to my mind, that ran the "BIG 3" down! Ken, do you have anymore pictures of your NASH? If so..... PLEASE post them right here my friend! Thank's for your kind words also Ken, the hoops came out sweet.
Let's put them rock guards back on, I forgot to point this out about the wheel .....
Before you use it, take a file (Rasp) or some 100 grit sandpaper and round the edge of the wheel. The edge of the wheel is sharp, and will cut through the paint/clear coat with ease.
What we will need to complete the task.....
Some tape for marking, a spray bottle of water with a tad of baby shampoo mixed in with the water. 3M double sided tape # 06382. A sharp pair of scissors and of course, your freshly repainted rock guards....
My rig never had running boards on it, as the before picture shows. The road maintance out here is bad, they say California ranks #1 in the nation for the worst roads. My rock guards have show this with 20K on the rig. We now have running boards installed and will clear bra the rock guards here in a few weeks. My buddy, Johnny Lewis has about the same amount of miles on his '06 that came with boards, and his guards still look vantastic.
Get accustomed on how to secure the lower clip before you install the guards.....
The horizontal clip goes above the rocker pannel, while the vertical part of the clip goes between the rocker pannel and the innner fender well/cover. After you have that down, install the guard. Secure the lower mounting clip, start pushing upwards as you make your way to the top of the guard, and mark the edges where it will be mounted with some tape......
Install the 3M tape about a 1/8" away from the lip of the guard.....
When I got to the top of the guard, I made three relief cuts to aid the bending of the tape.....
Spray the water/baby shampoo solution on the the fender.....
This will let you move the guard around, and get the guard into place with your tape marks that you put on the fender. There you have it, the guard is back on your rig.....
*REMEMBER* to work your way up from the bottom to the top of the guard when you are pressing down on it. The water/soap solution will dry, But it will give you plenty of time to adjust the guard to your liking. Wait a few hours for the solution to evaporate and then press the guard down from the bottom to the top again a few more times, and you are done.
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