Hello Fellow Fanatic's
Here's another cheap add-on that was under $100.00 to do. Picked up a Lund scoop from Summit-Racing on eBay. It reminded me of the hood scoop that I use to have on my 1967 GTO so I figured I'd give a try to see how it would look on my SSR. They ship it unpainted with a pair of plastic mesh inserts that you stick on where the scoops are located. Prepped, primed, sanded and painted it with Dupli-Color spray paint to match the Asphalt Black. I decided to not use the stick-on inserts the factory supplied and instead cut out openings with a Dremel and hot glued stainless mesh into place from the back to give it a little more realism.
I know it's non functional and not the real thing as some of the purists out there might think but for under $100.00 it was worth the time and effort since the end results are not that bad.
By the way this project took 3 days. One to prep, the second to allow the paint to harden and the third to rub the paint out, buff and polish and install on the hood.
Here is some pics of a mod for the undisired cover up where our gauge pod jons the console. Also for us that look at the shifter instead of the indicator on the dash. Rubber for gauge pod= Auto Zone door edge protector. INDICATOR letters = Walmart. S&W seat belt holder= only place you could get to it.
The Smith & Wesson might do a lot of chafing and scuffing tucked in next to the seat like that.
I was thinking of using a Fobus Roto Holster mounted on the side of the console. It's a hard moulded black plastic holster specifically made for each pistol with a screw mounting built into it.
I prefer the S&W 340PD AirLite myself. Definitely NOT an under $100 accessory.
Thought about making a mount that would slid down in the cup holder slot on the drivers side. There is no place that I could find to have access to if need so. As long as the seat stays in one spot I don't think it will do any harm. Around here in the Memphis area one must not be caught off guard. I have the carry permit for Arkansas. SW99-9MM-WALTHER FRAME W/NITE SIGHTS
Your S&W Model 99 takes the Fobus Roto Holster GL4 and is available in right or left hand versions. I have been thinking that if it were screwed to the console that would be good and solid. Also, if a plate of some sort were fashioned, it could be slipped into the console drink holder slot on one side or the other. Which ever would provide an instant grab.
I'm a ND and UT CWP Instructor (the combination is good for 31 states).
I've got several of the FOBUS holsters just like the one you've pictured. I believe like you were saying can be custom fit for our needs. The one I am looking at at the present is the Model GL36. Take the hip support off, there is and impression with 2 holes already drilled with the inside being counter sunk. All we need is a piece that will slide right into the factory holder as you mentioned. We would have to dissemble the complete holster but could be riveted back together. Good ideal. Could be another SSR must have. Bet it would sell!!!!! LOOK OUT EBAY. Food for thought.
THANKS
Found one of my nylon PYTHON holsters that was a shoulder with detachable holster. Took thin metal strip cut to fit the slot on the console. Slid in in the slot on the holster where the belt attachment would go. Put double sided tape on the slide that goes in the slot to make it where you can pull you gun out and the holster stays in place. Check the pic out. Clean app.
Found one of my nylon PYTHON holsters that was a shoulder with detachable holster. Took thin metal strip cut to fit the slot on the console. Slid in in the slot on the holster where the belt attachment would go. Put double sided tape on the slide that goes in the slot to make it where you can pull you gun out and the holster stays in place. Check the pic out. Clean app.
That's just about what I'd envisioned for myself. Good job!
I already went on the MidWayUSA site and ordered myself out a Fobus paddle holster. I was going to modify that. Maybe the nylon is the route to go. I can just use the Fobus on my side for the winter overcoat weather.
It's best to go "well heeled" whenever possible rather than wish you did when the time comes.
The nylon stays in the SSR, grab you piece and go. Could not see using the molded plastic when the nylon will configure. CLUE!!! I did take a strip of adhesion black pad and attach it to the black part of the console so not to have a wear point. I could care less if the gun gets scarred. I have already got enough scars as of date on the SSR doing my thing. Thanks once again!!!
P.S.
This pic shows the black rubber strip on the gage pod and not to mention the indicators on the shifter, for the old schoolers. OLD SCHOOL did not have the luxury of a dash mount indicator.
My SSR: 2006 Black Auto #22925, Diablo Tune, Straight Pipes, K&N, Wing, Lingenfelter, Vette Servo
RE: Old School Air Dam (Front Spoiler)
Added an old school front air dam (spoiler) from a 70 Chevelle SS. Had to make a few brackets and drill 4 holes to hang. Used the lower front radiator mounting bolts and it mates right up without drilling any holes in the frame. It was delivered in black primer so I'll sand and paint it Asphalt Black and clear coat it to match when I get the time. It's also made of steel with a nice rolled edge so it will take a beating over the years from stones and road kill. LOL
Cost was $123.00 with shipping. Found it on eBay from a reputable seller.
Sure changes the look of the front end and gives it a more muscular look.
Thought about making a mount that would slid down in the cup holder slot on the drivers side. There is no place that I could find to have access to if need so. As long as the seat stays in one spot I don't think it will do any harm. Around here in the Memphis area one must not be caught off guard. I have the carry permit for Arkansas. SW99-9MM-WALTHER FRAME W/NITE SIGHTS
Added an old school front air dam (spoiler) from a 70 Chevelle SS. Had to make a few brackets and drill 4 holes to hang. Used the lower front radiator mounting bolts and it mates right up without drilling any holes in the frame. It was delivered in black primer so I'll sand and paint it Asphalt Black and clear coat it to match when I get the time. It's also made of steel with a nice rolled edge so it will take a beating over the years from stones and road kill. LOL
Cost was $123.00 with shipping. Found it on eBay from a reputable seller.
Sure changes the look of the front end and gives it a more muscular look.
Al
Vmax1244
Looks like a winner!
When you get a chance, snap some more pictures but from a lower angle or two. Also include pictures showing how it attach.
My SSR: 2006 Black Auto #22925, Diablo Tune, Straight Pipes, K&N, Wing, Lingenfelter, Vette Servo
OK... Will take some pictures from under the front showing the brackets and how they mount and post tomorrow. The air dam is also a great place to display the Chevrolet name across the bottom. Would look cool there in White or Silver.
I think I'll spray the bottom of the radiator and cooler flat black so it blends into the background and does not show through the opening where the gap is between the frame and the spoiler. Should give it a better visual effect from the front.
After adding the bright chrome door edge molding to my modified air filter box this weekend, I decided to try adding some of the same stuff to the edges of my doors. Mind you, I've really never been a fan of adding door edge molding, but my supposed 2-car garage is unfortunately short and narrow. With the long doors of the SSR, similar to that on the Corvette, I seem to ocassionally bump the inside wall with the door in spite of trying to be very careful.
Thus I installed a couple of 17-3/4" pieces of the bright chrome door molding, and I really don't think it looks too bad. Certainly not on my color SSR. I'll try it for a while, and it's relatively easily removed if I change my mine about it. Certainly it will help protect the door edges as it is supposed to. The length I mentioned takes it from the bottom edge of the cutout for the door handle to a seam in the body panels, a convenient place to stop the molding I thought.
Food for thought on the great looking air dam: The one that I looked at was metal that was on E-Bay. Attaching it solid to the rad. support or any other bolt in place, could result in damage to the support in the event that you hit anything on the road. Most of the air dams are made to pull or tear off in the case of any conflict with the unpredictable. The rad. support is weak in the supporting of an attachment. Looks great!!!!! Best of luck. Watch those curbs. Just a THOUGHT!!!!
I have a new STEEL lower support that is a bolt-in re placement for the OEM unit. It is cheaper than the stock part and is quite robust. I have it white zinc plated to eliminate rust and provides a great base for painting.
I'm shipping one to a guy in Florida that hit a racoon and took out his air dam, lower support, A/C condenser and radiator. If he had the steel one in, he would only have lost the air dam. If he had bolted the air dam onto the steel support, he probably would not have lost it either.
More Billett Caps available on Ebay with the SSR on Cap!
Gary G....................................
Gary:
Man, that's pretty cool with the "SSR" on it. As I said before, the caps from this eBay seller are outstanding ans well made, at least to me anyway. I had bought a bright chrome one with "LS2" on it. Then "Dragon2U" made the set of polished billet alumium cap covers available to us, so after I got a set of 5 from him, I wound up giving my LS2 cap to another fanatic.
It's too bad that this vendor most likely will offer only the oil fill cap, and variations of it. It would have been great to have custom replacement caps for all of the stock caps if one desired.
Thanks for adding the info. and photo of your new steel lower support. This thread is a good place for it to be found, in case folks don't find it in your initial thread on it.
I know it is a little pricey to be in the "inexpensive" section, but I couldn't resist the reply to OC....... It seemed to fit too well to pass up.
I love this thread. Lots of creative stuff.
Mike
Mike:
No, I'm glad that you added your item. Who's to define what is inexpensive/expensive anyway, right? It's all relative, as they say. I just like and appreciate how this thread has eveloped and evolved, and all the great items and info. that has been added to it. It's the kind of thread that even I go back through it to see if I missed or have forgotten anything. I love seeing people's different ideas and ingenuity on tricking out their rides, and it's nice to have a lot of that stuff located conveniently in one place on this forum.
Thanks, everyone!
BTW, Mike, ALL your products are GREAT, being well thought out and engineered. That's from one engineer to another! Your products serve to enhance the reliability, and thus the enjoyment of our beloved rides! I don't wear a hat, but here's hats off to you anyway!
I've been surfing ebay for such caps but they all say LS2. I want LS1. Are we LS1 owners being left out?
Jeff:
Yes, I just looked now on eBay, and you are right. There are caps for the LS1 engine, but they don't say "LS1". Why don't you try contacting the eBay seller(s) and see what's up, and if you could get a round, domed "LS1" decal to go on a oil fill cap for your engine?
I posted this info. in another thread a little bit ago, bit I thought it would be a good addition to this accessories thread as well.
These are SSR6SPD's (Jeff) very unique door lock knobs machined out of billet aluminum. The threaded posts are the ones like the company, Pilot, markets with various screw on knobs or valve stem caps, available at Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.
I posted this earlier this evening in a separate thread, but I thought it would be a good addition to this thread as well.
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I wanted to post some information and photos on how I added a bright chrome touch to the 5 black plastic hood blanket fasteners for our trucks. I purchased a set of 15-1” dia. bright chrome plastic hood blanket fasteners for off of eBay, the seller’s name is “vetteman62”.
One might be able to use the bright chrome fasteners alone as they are, but being smaller in diameter than the black fasteners and with the recesses/indentations in the hood blanket being large, I wanted to fill that space up better. Thus, I bought a couple of packs of GM trim fasteners (3 per pack), which are a bit larger in diameter than the stock ones. I drilled out the plastic threaded post on each one of them. Then I inserted the bright chrome fasteners through the holes in the black ones. The black fasteners then became basically washers for the new fasteners.
I was originally contemplating on having a set of the black fasteners bright chrome plated, but I think this actually worked out better and cheaper, because you potentially can have 3 sets of 5 fasteners out of the deal.
Those of us who have bought and installed Mike in AZ's custom airdam will attest to how much nicer a product it is than the GM stock one. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, it is one of the best, most functional, and inexpensive mod's. that one can do for their SSR. As they say.....it is clearly a "NO BRAINER" addition! In fact, I believe that I will order another one from him as a spare.
Yesterday I decided to make an attempt to "embellish" the appearance of Mike's air dam by adding a little "bling" to it. Not that it really needs it, but I thought what the heck, why not give it a try.
First, I added a strip of bright chrome door edge molding to the bottom lip. Then, I added 5 of those bright chrome plastic licence plate fastener caps on the push pins securing the air dam. To get those caps to work with the push pin fasteners, I merely cut (split) the clear plastic inside retainer that comes with each cap. You pull out the push pin slightly to enable you to slip retained around and under the head of the push pin. Then you can press on the chrome cap, which will snap into place. BTW, on my SSR, I have Mike in AZ's auxiliary fan installed which utilizes a bolt and nut replacing the center of the 5 push pin fasteners. For that one only, I super glued the chrome cap over the head of the bolt.
I found this mod. interesting, as one can go with just the molding, just the fastener caps, or both. The other thing is that this mod. is somewhat subtle, in that you have to be either quite a distance away from the truck or bend down to even see it.
As is the case with the vast majority of the accessories and mod's. in this thread, this one is totally reversible. If you decide that you don't like it later at some point, you just remove it with no harm done.
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Fobus Holster
Best place to mount is on your side.
VIVA DE FUNK
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