Has anyone made any mods to the shifter on the 6spd yet? The throw feels a bit long to me and somewhat loose. I called B&M and Hurst today and neither of those folks currently offer an improved shifter or have one in R&D yet.
Perhaps shortening the shifter shaft an inch or two might improve the feel?
While shortening the lever will also shorten the throw, it will also increase the neccessary shifting effort, and may be more uncomfortable to reach, depending on your arm length and seat position. It wont affect the loosness.
Having owned many stick shift vehicles from mustangs to m3's, I am actually impressed with the shifter, this being a truck and all.
Thanks for the comments on the shifter. I am glad you like it and I am sure many folks probably also like the way it feels to them also.
I have two manual stick shift cars now and have had many in the past also, many of which I didn't like the feel of the shifter either, and modified them or used an aftermarket shifter. Maybe I'm just a little picky and I love to speed shift, as I like a crisp, short throw.
The shifter in the SSR is neither short nor crisp in my opinion. Granted, its a truck, but I like to drive it like it was a Vette! The clutch action was horrible too and I found a fix for it on the Vette forum and posted here in the SSR Forum.
Being there is probably no aftermarket folks making shifters for our SSR's yet, I am toying with the idea to shorten it. I understand the physics, but was wondering if anyone had actually tried it. Using a shorter shifter handle is an old mustang trick that worked fairly well with the t-5's, as I did that to one and it worked well.
Let me know how it works out. Ive actiually changed the shifter in every car I have owned, so I know how you feel. It's these personal changes that your car feel like "your car" (truck in our case). I didn't mean to imply that this one should not be changed, I was just commenting that it shifted better than I expected. Peter
I also agree that the length of the shifter is too long. I am also interested in a aftermarket short throw shifter that feels crisp and percise. I dont think we can get away with just shortening the stock shifter, it will make it feel worse then it does right now. It is a good shifter for a stock unit but I dont feel it will respond well to shortening.
My SSR: 2005 6 speed, magnuson s/c, 2.7 pulley, edelbrock stage one heads, comp cam, headers, short shifter
i've already looked at the stock shifter and if there is enough interest, i can design/build a short throw shifter. for reference, i used to be v.p. of engineering for b&m racing before starting my own company (i designed about half of the shifters currently sold by b&m).
A short throw shifter is an interesting idea but i have a problem with the knob!
Does anyone know if Hurst makes a T- handle for our ****er?
With our shift pattern and logo on it it would look sweet!!
I've also toyed with the idea of a shorter throw shifter. My issue is that reducing the throw will also reduce the distance between the 1/2, 3/4, 5/6 gates making it even easier to find the 'wrong' gear. Any thoughts on a design that would include a gated version so a missed shift would be very hard to do??
i've already looked at the stock shifter and if there is enough interest, i can design/build a short throw shifter. for reference, i used to be v.p. of engineering for b&m racing before starting my own company (i designed about half of the shifters currently sold by b&m).
let me know your thoughts.
regards,
ken zeller
I don't like the way it shifts now. It feels like it's binding and actually requires more effort than I think it should take. Either that or the gears are never fully synchronizing. I would welcome a better shifter.
The way I understand it we have a version of the T56 that is called an M10. I am planning to remove my console next week to trim the carpet padding from the guage install done wrong by the dealership. I will take a good look at it when I have it apart and see if it is the same as the Hurst or B&M.
The way I understand it we have a version of the T56 that is called an M10. I am planning to remove my console next week to trim the carpet padding from the guage install done wrong by the dealership. I will take a good look at it when I have it apart and see if it is the same as the Hurst or B&M.
M10 is GM's RPO code for this transmission. Do let us know what you find out when you take things apart. I have noticed simply by prodding at the shift lever through the boot is that there is a n "S" bend in it. I don't know if that was to clear the console opening or not... I guess you'll find out soon enough!
My SSR: Is so Highly modified that it now looks like an 07 Corvette Cpe Machine Silver
Truck??
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.0scSSR
While shortening the lever will also shorten the throw, it will also increase the neccessary shifting effort, and may be more uncomfortable to reach, depending on your arm length and seat position. It wont affect the loosness.
Having owned many stick shift vehicles from mustangs to m3's, I am actually impressed with the shifter, this being a truck and all.
It may be a truck, but it shares a drivetrain with the Corvette.
Just found this thread as I don't get time to visit the site that often currently. I may be able to save you some hassle.
I thought that the shift was too long in my 05 SSR also.
I had the console apart which is a job I wouldn't do again in a hurry as all the clips feel as if they will break when pulled and you cannot get the factory shifter out without stripping the console completely down as there is a flat metal plate the consol is built onto which obstructs you. You can bend this up out of the way once you have stripped out all the plastic parts but you would really want to remove it to do things properly. With all the satin chrome and painted surfaces around it is a miracle to get this out without damaging something.
I initially thought it would be 'mustang style' where you just pull the bezel, leather boot and undo 4 bolts with a long extension and ratchet. It sure isnt.
I had a '99 Camaro/Firebird B&M short throw shifter which does not fit as the gear selector end of the shifter (with the little ball end on it) was too short to reach properly into the plastic cup it sits in inside the selector rod(may have been too long my memory is failing but either way was wrong). I also had assumed my only issue would be the shape of the handle fouling the console (no S bend) but not so.
It would appear that different T56 applications have different machinings on the block on the gearbox selector shaft end. The answer may be to swap the block on the end for a Camaro one but I was over my head by this time and didn't have the parts to try this. They may be permenantly fixed to the gearbox shaft, I don't know.
I resorted to Plan B and cut the stock shifter handle down. I would recommend this as it does reduce the travel significantly. I had the shifter out by this stage so did it on a bench but it would be quite possible to do it in the truck if you sheeted everything else up so you couldn't scratch the interior with a saw or file.
I took approx 2 inches off and the stock SSR ball shifter is now very close to the oval bezel in 2nd, 4th and 6th. Be careful of this as if you cut any more you could easilly end up with the shifter ball rattling on the bezel - not good !! If I did it again 1.5 to 1.75 inches cut off would be my optimum.
The stock shifter handle has a flat side for the first 1.5 inches or so and also a 'V' cut across the handle for the allen key grub screw that holds the ball on to locate in. The handle is easy cut with a hacksaw and the flat side and 'V' can be made easily with a hand file the steel is quite soft. You will need to recreate these features to fit the stock shifter ball back on. You may not it you are using something else as a handle.
Don't bother taking the shifter out of the truck to do this as just be careful not to scratch anything. It will take far longer to remove the console and shifter than cut and file it in place.
In my experience aftermarket shifters introduce loads of transmission noise via the harder or aluminum bushings (although I have yet to use a B&M and was impressed with the quality of the one I treid to install) so I think cutting the stock one is a good option.
The shift is still 'industrial' by European sports car standards but I don't notice any extra effort required when shifting now I cut it down. The shifter is actually quite long from pivot to top once you have the console out so 2 inches cut off is not as much in percentage terms as you may think looking at it when in place.
Certainly no problem knowing if you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th as the selection in a T56 is very definite anyway. I live in England and so have driven 'stick' cars all my life. the shift in the SSR is far from slick or light but particularly with the cut down shifter the feel is quite acceptable. Having driven someone elses Viper I would say it's no worse. (possibly a Viper aftermarket shifter would fit?)
Also, my understanding is that C5 onwards Corvettes have the gearbox in the back with the 'axel' and have an engine speed driveshaft. If I am correct (and I may not be) the shift selector in a Corvette will be remote via cables or linkages and likely no use to an SSR owner. Normal C4 Corvettes I think only had 5 speeds but ZR1 's had 6 speeds but I don't know if this was a T56. I am sure someone else will know far more than me on this.
Hope this is some help. Should have taken some pics at the time.
Thanks for the input Robmac. I took my console apart today also. I am installing some wiring for some future additions, looking at the shifter and seeing if I could find a problem with my voltmeter gauge.
Well, thanks to others on this forum with information to take the console apart, it went pretty smooth. I found the problem with the voltmeter (loose nut on back of meter) and got my wiring in for my 2 meter rig and some wiring for future mods planned soon.
I also found while playing with the shifter boot and the knob, it seems a lot of noise is transmitted from the tranny to the shifter boot and housing. This noise seems to be transmitted via the shifter shaft to the knob then the boot which attaches to the knob. I was amazed by just disconnecting the shifter boot from the knob how quiet the tranny now seems sitting in neutral with the clutch out. (input shaft and some gears turning). I thought the m10 was just a noisy tranny but now I am pleased to know it is just amplification of noise from the shifter to the boot.
Im running out time tonite to keep working on the noise fix, but will update this thread when I make some more progress with the noise and cut the shifter shaft about 1 inch as suggested by Robmac.
Just want to send thanks to my fellow countryman, Robmac. You saved me a ton of work as I was thinking to try the Trans Am shifter myself. The stock shifter has too much travel and is too vague. Needs to be more crisp on the 2-3 shift. I also have a Mustang with a Tremec TKO. I fitted a Pro 5.0 shifter to this and it was a true transformation. I emailed the guys at Pro 5.0 to see if they have a shifter for the SSR. They do do them for T/As etc. I'll let you know if I hear from them.
As suggested by Robmac I cut my shifter shaft about 1.25 inches. I just used a hacksaw without taking the shifter out. I used a blanket around the shifter to catch the fileings. I recreated the flat spot on the shaft by leaving about .100 of the existing flat as a guide and sawed vertically for about 1.25 inches. After cleaning up the cuts with a file I reinstalled the shifter knob and tighted the set screw to mark where the new V cut should go on the shorted shaft. I then removed the knob and cut the new V slot on the shaft with the file for the setscrew to seat into.
My next step was to reduce the noise seemingly generated by the shifter. Because the noise seemed to be reduced when separating the boot from the knob, I softened up the boot with a leather conditioner and modified the knob by cutting down the nylon barb on the insert to make it look just like a sleeve that extends into the boot without the barb. This makes the boot float on the shaft and because the shaft is now shorter the boot has some tension on the bottom of the knob and a tight fit around the barb is no longer needed to keep the boot up tight to the bottom of the knob.
The combination of the shorter shaft and the reduced noise has improved the shifter feel and reduced the noise level of the tranny for me. It was surprising how much noise from the tranny was transmitted via the shaft to the boot via the knob and how easy it was to fix. The mod to the shaft improved the feel without increasing the gate vagueness. These two mods can all be done with just the removal of the knob and a few simple tools in less than an hour. No removal of the boot or console parts are required.
Although the mod does not really solve all the "vagueness"of the gate, I think the best fix will come with an aftermarket product that redesigns the shifter to make the feel short and crisp, but in the mean time these two improvements, along with the clutch arm spring removal will increase the pleasure of driving our SSR's for the folks that enjoy shifting for themselves.
Thanks again to Robmac for being the first to modify and report his findings on the shifter.
I did some checking around and contacted Tremec re the T56 in the SSR. Not good news. They tell me the shifter is unique to the 05 and 06 SSR and not shared with any other vehicle. Guess we will have to wait until someone in the aftermarket decides to make one.
Another question
