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Old 11-19-2012, 10:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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ABS Solution

Well, here is a solution to our ABS problem that occurs from the heat, I believe, being to close to catalytic converter.

Relay goes out.

New ABS Module Retail $600 +

Now the Solution! (Discovered this after I bought a NEW one).

Repair and Return: $69.00 Plus shipping (See it is now $79.00)

WEB SITE: https://www.myairbags.com/abs.php?gc...FYOc7QodjykADQ


MYAIRBAGS
461 ELENA VISTA
WINDER, GA 30680


678-778-8890
info@myairbags.com



ABS, EBCM Kelsey Hayes 325 -Fits the Following:

Chevy, Ford, Isuzu, GMC Trucks & SUV 1999 - 2012
ABS Pump constantly running
Diagnostic Codes:C0265, C0267, C0268
Chevy Blazer, Colorado, Silverado, Tahoe,
S-10, S-15, Avalanche, Trailblazer, GMC Yukon, Venture, Envoy, Blazer, Jimmy, Sonoma, Savana, Safari, Suburban, Sierra, Z71, Isuzu Amigo and Rodeo, Opel Frontera, Holden, Honda Passport, Oldsmobile Bravada, Pontiac, Cadillac, Impala
Ford F150, F250, F350 1999 - 2004
F-Series Trucks Kalsey Hayes

AND THE SSR!

Already used by Chuckster, Mace and ME. Just added ZoomAddict

I have a spare on the shelf, cost including shipping, $86.00

NOTE: 03/04 different from 05/06

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Old 11-19-2012, 10:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It was posted on here not long ago by vmax1244, that the reason the ABS fails might be caused by lifting solder joints on the board (relay) and that they can be simply resoldered. (This is also an issue with the wiper motor) It seems as though mass production doesn't always equal quality.

If anyone would like to send me their ABS unit to check this out for them AND resolder it all I ask is enough money to cover shipping expenses. If it doesn't work all your out is a few $ on shipping and can still use the other service. Please PM me if interested, I will do a one day turn around with the shipper of your choice. I have many years experience soldering electronics and hold several certifications.

Last edited by Dragon2U; 11-19-2012 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is this only if your ABS unit fails or is this done as a preventative measure before a problem develops?
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post
Well, here is a solution to our ABS problem that occurs from the heat, I believe, being to close to catalytic converter.
Is there room for some type of heat shield to cover the ABS Module?
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RUN ROD RUN View Post
Is there room for some type of heat shield to cover the ABS Module?
Jeff, Mike in AZ is working on a heat shield.

When your ABS Light comes on and the "ding,ding" begins and is usually an intermittent problem caused by the relay and then it stays on.

Won't hurt to drive it, just a pain to hear it "ding" when you use your R.

The relay goes bad 95% of the time, I was told by the ABS Repair people. They guarantee their repair.

No preventive maintenance, works or doesn't work is what I have experienced.

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Old 11-19-2012, 12:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post

The relay goes bad 95% of the time, I was told by the ABS Repair people. They guarantee their repair.

Dicktator
It's not necessarily the relay, it's likely the solder joints on the relay. Very rare for the actual relay to go bad. Here is a video on it for anyone interested, this problem occurs on many GM cars, trucks and vans, not just SSRs and I am not sure a heat shield would help it.

For those curious about my abilities to solder, I did electronic repair for many years in the military and hold several certifications for sensitive electronic repairs. Would this be preventative maintenance? Well, maybe, if you have an ABS unit that was done poorly from the factory.

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Old 11-19-2012, 02:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon2U View Post
It was posted on here not long ago by vmax1244, that the reason the ABS fails might be caused by lifting solder joints on the board (relay) and that they can be simply resoldered. (This is also an issue with the wiper motor) It seems as though mass production doesn't always equal quality.

If anyone would like to send me their ABS unit to check this out for them AND resolder it all I ask is enough money to cover shipping expenses. If it doesn't work all your out is a few $ on shipping and can still use the other service. Please PM me if interested, I will do a one day turn around with the shipper of your choice. I have many years experience soldering electronics and hold several certifications.
That is a really, really nice offer. I for one will keep that in mind for the future. Another reason why the Fanatics are some of the best people I know.
Thank You. Cleve in Orlando
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Interesting video. Helpful. What is with the Dr. Zhivago music in the background? Will the solder fix work on all modules no matter what make? Are you replacing the solders, or just adding to them? Is a solder sucker needed?
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It's not necessarily the relay, it's likely the solder joints on the relay. Very rare for the actual relay to go bad. Here is a video on it for anyone interested, this problem occurs on many GM cars, trucks and vans, not just SSRs and I am not sure a heat shield would help it.



Thanks for the explanation Dragon2U. They must us low temp solder to have it fail so often.

Must happen a lot for a Company to repair them full time.

I, for one, am not questioning your ability to do the repair, only trying to find a more economical solution to the ABS EBCM problem.

Your offer is most generous, we thank you.

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Old 11-20-2012, 06:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
Interesting video. Helpful. What is with the Dr. Zhivago music in the background? Will the solder fix work on all modules no matter what make? Are you replacing the solders, or just adding to them? Is a solder sucker needed?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator View Post

Must happen a lot for a Company to repair them full time.

I, for one, am not questioning your ability to do the repair, only trying to find a more economical solution to the ABS EBCM problem.

Your offer is most generous, we thank you.

Dicktator
Monkey Bars,
I would take all the old solder off the joints and resolder with a fresh connection.

Dicktator,
Sorry for jumping in your message but I've been thinking about offering this for awhile and it seemed like a good place to mention it. My fix may not be 100% but it should fix some of them. I'll know more when I see a few and determine issues. I will keep a log and see what the outcomes are.

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Old 11-20-2012, 06:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon2U View Post
Monkey Bars,
I would take all the old solder off the joints and resolder with a fresh connection.

Dicktator,
Sorry for jumping in your message but I've been thinking about offering this for awhile and it seemed like a good place to mention it. My fix may not be 100% but it should fix some of them. I'll know more when I see a few and determine issues. I will keep a log and see what the outcomes are.

You didn't jump on my message, we all have this potential problem and glad you are offering to do this.

I may look at providing this repair also. I already do stepper motors/faceplate's, etc.

My understanding or what I assumed from their conversation, that the relay was replaced by them. I don't know where or how to replace the relay, so I opted to send it out for $59.00.

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Old 11-20-2012, 07:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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All we need now are step by step directions and pictures on how to remove the module....hint hint!!!
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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RE: Why the solder lifts away

What I found is poor board design. Most circuit boards use an eyelet that feeds through both the top and bottom of the board. This board uses topside flow points to make the connection to the components. If you look closely you will see 4 attachment points around the pin where the component is soldered to the circuit board. This design makes for the pin to actually break away from the board through vibration and heat. It pulls the solder joint in all directions and eventually you have microscopic hairline fractures in the solder itself. If the engineer would have used feed-through copper eyelets (See images attached) this would never have happened.
The fix is feeding more solder to the pin so it flows down and fills the void that the wave solder production missed. Itís not necessary to remove the old solder unless it has some sort of corrosion which I did find on several of the chip resistors and chip capacitors using an 8 power loop to view. Just use a good rosin core silver solder if you are attempting to do the fix yourself.
Attached Thumbnails
ABS Solution-solder-points.jpg   ABS Solution-copper-eyelet.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
All we need now are step by step directions and pictures on how to remove the module....hint hint!!!
I put "step by step" removal on the Site, it is a sticky.

Right at the top of this SSR Technical Discussion.

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Old 08-17-2013, 12:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Same thing in key fob

my key fob got flakey, lock worked the didn't work. i want to change the battery and it tested good,+ 3vdc. As I was reinstalling the battery the clip/retainer for the battery came loose. two of the three solder points had cold solder joints. Fired up the solder iron, fixed.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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do they to 2003 ssr
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