Back to the concept look ....

[REBEL]

Many or most will not like this modification, but a couple did ask how I did it while at Lansing, so here is a short "how I did it"

Always feeling the stock mirrors are too large in scale, I decided to go back to the original concept look.

I found some small shapely bike mirrors that I liked (from a 04-05 Z1 bike on E-bay)

I did not want to use heat and chance hurting anything in the process, so I chose to use J. B. Weld, a two part epoxy.

I also picked up a set of used side appliqués (the outside pieces that fit on the sides of the front windshield as they will need to be drilled, and I always want to save the "born with parts" incase I want to undo my modifications later.

With the appliqués off you can see a flat lip with a down turn. This is where I decided to bond my joining nuts (used to join two lengths of threaded rod together) but in this case it is my female mount that the mirror studs will screw into. Putting the mount nut into the corner of the turn down piece will give it more support, with two ridge surface contacts.

I drill one hole in from the top of the flat lip and tap it 1/4-20, so it will accept a set screw. This will be the way I adjust the up and down of the mirror for clearance and manage to match both sides while in the bonding process. (The set screw will press down on the inboard side of the joining nut)

Cut the mirror stems to length, drill and tap them for 1/4-20. I then use Locktight thread locker to set the threaded rod into the mirror stems.

I ruff up the metal on the nuts and under the flat lip, to gain tooth for the bond.

After mixing the J.B. Weld, it gives you 30 minutes to manipulate your pieces into place, and then sets up solid.

I protect the SSR surface with plastic, except where I want it to bond.

Apply J.B. Weld on nut and mating surface, clamp the outer edge of nut in place with vise grips, set lateral angle with adjustable angle finder, and then open the door with window up.

This is where I screw the jack setscrew in or out to get the mirror to move up and down and get the clearance needed for the window to pass.

I chose to leave 3/4" clearance and match both sides of the SSR.

After letting it sit over night, I file off any ruff surface of the J.B.Weld and unscrew the jacking screw. fill the jacking screw hole with more J.B.Weld then paint it.

I screw a long length of threaded rod into the mount nut. Then cut a small square of cardboard and punch a tight ¼" hole in the center and slide it over the rod.

I take a larger piece of cardboard with a window in it and place it over the rod and small cardboard. I then slide the large cardboard to the edge of the window where the appliqués with rest. Tape the two cardboards together and you will now have located the spot to drill, for the mirror stem.

Transfer the cardboard template to the edges of the appliqué and mark the hole from the cardboard on to the appliqué.

I drilled a small hole in appliqué first and removed threaded rod from mount nut. Placing appliqué in place, to double check hole location with a small drill bit through the hole to ensure alignment with mount nut center, then proceed with drilling full sized hole in appliqué.

Because of the angle of appliqué in relation to the stud, the hole needs to be oblong for clearance. So I finish off the hole with a rattail file making room for a small rubber grommet in the hole. While making room for the grommet, is where you can move the hole a bit. By removing more from one side of the hole, if the alignment is off slightly.

Test fit with mirrors, grommet and appliqués in place. Then with prep and paint the red used parts turns black. (Thanks to BOBA and ARIN1979)

I use a sheet of paper over the Velcro, so they do not stick till I have them where I want them. Then pull paper out and press down and lock it in place.

Because the view point of the driver is off center from mirror locations I had to make a set of bending bars like I use at work for making can twisters.

These bars will grab the mirror stem and bend it to the angle need for sight line.

NOTE 1: This bending is a one time deal. After setting it up for the driver's seat, only movement allowed after this is up and down by rotating the mirror on the stem.

NOTE 2 ; The passenger side will not be in view with top up for a 6' driver, only with top down is it of any usefulness.

NOTE 3: Oh YA! Now you have some holes in your door where the old mirrors where. (Time to find some spare doors that can have the holes welded closed)

With the factory mirrors off it look's lighter and cleaner, ''showing the tapered body lines off " like I like. (In my selfish opinion.)

This modification should save many lives .... Many bug lives.

[REBEL]

... I will get better pictures of the finnished look, after some sleep and the sun is out.

[XSELER8]

Nice installation & write up.

[rick418cars]

very cool idea..............

[Mr. Sinister]

As you know I've done a similer mod with exception of mounting them on the "A" piller. I mounted Model A mirriors to the doors so that i could see out the passenger side. I think it looks marvelous it's a must to get that streamline look and I like your way of thinking. But I must warn you that my mirriors whistle and they aint worth DoDo to see out of.
And I wouldn't change back for any reason who needs to know what's behind you anyhow.

[REBEL]

I had her granked coming home I-75 from the SSR picnic, to get to work on time.... Lucky no whistle. I drive forward with center mirror, the only thing I will need to work on is parking on a curb. I will adjust the passenger side mirror down to catch the rear tire then just will have to crack the roof open to park.

It really shows the body taper to the front when looking from behind, the old factory mirrors hid all that.

Hell… Women don’t wear high heels for comfort or usefulness, …
it’s all about the looks baby! In the old days a passenger side mirror was a option.

The feedback I recieved at the picnic has helped me to make up my mind. I will be painting the mirrors black.

Brenda took the camera with her as she's on another vacation with her sister down to Gina's neck of the woods. Better pictures next week, up close for the gromet and from behind to show of the difference in looks. I'm really really pleased with the new look. My birthday came and went with no fuzzy spoiler from my wife, so now I will have to buy it myself.

[Buffy]

Ed,

You and Lonnie just SCARE me at what you will attempt!

Changing a hood can be changed back quite easily, but once you mess with something as big as this, takes a big set of ......... of.......... GUTS!

Great job!

[REBEL]

No risk in this mod. G.M. already showed us how it would look. It's part of what sold it to me when it first came out at the Detroit auto show.

I can take the mirrors off and back to stock trim in 10 minutes. ( no one can see the mount nuts unless they take the cover trim off. The point of no return is the door holes. Thats why the look is out for spare doors and then I can hang these "born with doors" up with the "born with hood".

Still need to work on tailgate, front and rear bumper covers
But just mild smooth stuff, not as wild as that Sinister... I'm not that brave.

Down the road my spare parts will be worth more than the SSR.

[parothed97]

Originally Posted by REBEL

... I will get better pictures of the finnished look, after some sleep and the sun is out.

I was able to capture 1 angle of Rebel's work at the Picnic.....


I wonder who is reflected in Rebel's Window?

[roadsterjeff]

Here's one I took from the front of Rebel's truck

[ggoat!!!]

Hi Rebel...

The mirror mod looks professional! You're right though, gotta paint the mirrors black to make it look more classy.

BTW...how do the A-pillar appliques come off? Are they JUST velcro'd on? Please let me know.

Thanks,
Jeff

[REBEL]

Thanks for help with the pictures Guys … Here’s the real deal.
A couple pictures taken a year ago at the Heritage Museum, of Grandpa SSR.

[REBEL]

Three velco and three push pins.
one pin on top under header rubber and then two push pins on bottom under hood. They are plastic and pull strait out. They get damaged when pulled out and thats why people are having trouble with the cover coming off, after someone works on them, and reuses the old pins I think. (need to use new pins after removel.)

[ggoat!!!]

Does anyone know the part number for the driver's side A-pillar outside applique? Also, when you order a replacement, do they come painted? Or, do you have to have it painted to match? My '06 came from the factory with about 100 little tiny blue bubbles under the base coat that looks like razor burn bumps. I didn't want to have it just repainted by somebody due to fear of the metallic being applied at a different angle and looking strange. It would be nice if they were available from GM painted.

Thanks,
Jeff

[REBEL]

Buy used or go for warrenty ... New parts price will scare you. Yes they come painted. Drivers side cost is 10 times more than passenger side, go figure

[RUN ROD RUN]

Originally Posted by REBEL

I drive forward with center mirror, the only thing I will need to work on is parking on a curb. I will adjust the passenger side mirror down to catch the rear tire then just will have to crack the roof open to park.

Grandpa would be happy if jr wouldn't hit the curb.... You better put these on!

http://www.mooneyesusa.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=755

[REBEL]

Cheers 89ROD .... I have been looking at all kinds of these feelers ... but just think it is more lead sled and my not fit the look I'm after, but it is a possibility. Looking at fenderwell cameras also. Thanks need to keep grampa SSR happy and rims scarfree!

[XSELER8]

I saw a set of the curb feelers in Washington.

At the Smithsonian

[Mr. Sinister]

Anybody can own one, It takes a real man to cut one!

[akwares]

I had the same mod planned for my SSR! I'm still looking for just the right mirror, but I think I have found one. I am also looking at motorcycle mirrors.

I will probably drop the mirrors down just enough to make the passenger side useful though, since I am 6'-1", and I do want to use the side mirrors. I will probably use the same mounting spot and angle the stem downward. It might look a little funny, but I think it will still be better than the stock mirrors, which are just in the way of the body lines, in my opinion.

Thanks a lot for the install info, this will be very helpful for my idea.

Good idea and well done mod!

[REBEL]

Akwares ... keep in mind the door window must pass under the mirror. I have 3/4" clearence as is. If you lower it you will need to mount it lower on the a piller but then it's getting in your sight line looking down the road in front of you.

I'm guessing this is why the production run did not go with this setup.

[REBEL]

(Anybody can own one, It takes a real man to cut one)

I don't know if I would go that far... But you do have to have confidence in your skills needed to get the look you want. And not worry about negitive comments that will come from the change.

[Joe Schuhriemen]

Sorry guys. Those itsy bitsy mirrors look like bat ears to me. I personally prefer what the GM designers or whoever originally came up with. I don't mean to rain on your parade. If you love'm, leave'm.

[REBEL]

That's cool, you are one of many who feels that way. Still friends

[Mr. Sinister]

I agree Rebel you couldn't have said it any better.
You are right accolades and rejection come at you from all angles and you have to have thick skin sometimes, but when you get a rush everytime you look at your work that's all that matters.
There are trendsetters and then there are those who fordge their own direction; some use a blowtorch and others might try a set of rims. All I'm saying is it's your truck have fun with it ,you paid for it.

[akwares]

Originally Posted by REBEL

Akwares ... keep in mind the door window must pass under the mirror. I have 3/4" clearence as is. If you lower it you will need to mount it lower on the a piller but then it's getting in your sight line looking down the road in front of you.

I'm guessing this is why the production run did not go with this setup.

Good point, Rebel, I will keep that in mind. That's one of the reasons I'm looking for a smaller mirror anyway. I think I have one picked out, if I do eventually go with it, I'll post pics here.

If I like it, that's the most important result. If other's like it, great! If not, well, they probably just don't get it, and I won't worry about it.

[REBEL]

Another choice if bat ears are going too far, but you still feel the stock mirrors are too large in scale for the rest of the truck.

This guy lives two hours from me and hand moulds these mirrors 6 pair at a time, in a two car garage.

He supplies many hotrod shops like Daytona. I have held his mirrors in my hand and they are very good quality. They have solid mounting stems that you can trim to fit your mounting spot. Ready to paint these would work if you wanted to keep factory mounting location.

http://visionhotrod.com/mirrors.php


http://daytonasp.com/ven/vision%20ho...concepts.shtml

[akwares]

They Rebel:

Good call, I had already checked both of those sites out, and left messages for both of them a couple of weeks ago. Hopefully I'll here back from them. I'm also looking at using the Prowler mirrors, those are a little more sleek than the SSR mirrors.

[texster68]

Here's what it reminds me of:

[REBEL]

I like the term Bat ears better. To many wrinkels in the body work on this one.