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Best product for vinyl on the running boards?

6K views 29 replies 25 participants last post by  StLDave 
#1 ·
I need to give some attention to our running boards. A lot of them have the white film on them and I need to dress them up. What products do you use to keep the black tops of your running boards looking good? Durability is the key feature I'm looking for. ArmorAll looks great when it's applied but it seems to wear off fast. Thanks.

Chris
 
#8 ·
Chris

There has been some pretty good discussions on topic

http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/solution-faded-running-boards-36383/

My truck had a bad case of the white film as well. I used a warm soapy solution (car wash w/o any waxy additives), scotchbrites and lots of elbow grease. Then left them without any protectant. So far they have stayed black even after it rains. Just make sure not to hit any of the painted areas with the scotchbrites.

Gary
 
#9 ·
Running Boards

I had the same problem on the 'o5. I used Back to Black, a rough wash cloth and scrubbed the white off. Then coated with Back to Black ever 6 months. No problem. :black:

Jack
 
#12 ·
303 for me

Judy & Marv (Downshifter) introduced me to 303 Protectant by a courtesy application at the Michigan Pumpkin Run. I had to purchase it online (Googled it), but now I'm sold. I apply it whenever I polish the R and they always stay black.
 
#16 ·
Refinish Restorer

Refinish Restorer. Found this product because of fading on my Cadillac Escalade EXT tonneau cover. Worked great, lasted about one year, but the vehicle sits outside in the sun, rain and snow.

Also put it on my :blur: faded running boards. One year and they still look as good as the day I put it on, (but my :blur: gets to sit in a garage). Fading has not come back, and just use a vinyl protectant after I wash.

If you google Refinish Restorer, I think there is an on-line retailer in the US.
 
#17 ·
I've used "Forever Black" bumper and trim restorer for years. It actually dyes the part black and you can use things like Back to Black or Armor all on top of it if desired. Lasts several years on cars stored in the garage, haven't ever had to reapply. Have had to reapply after about three years to the bumpers of the Dodge truck that sits outside. Comes with a foam (shoe polish) type applicator and only takes a couple of minutes to apply (just wipe it on and let it dry). Can be purchased directly from the company or for less on Amazon:

Amazon.com: Forever Black Bumper & Trim Dye Kit: Automotive

This kit comes with the cleaner to use if needed. I've never used the cleaner, just the dye with no issues. Have read where some surfaces require two coats, all that I've ever done looked pretty much like new again with one coat.
 
#18 ·
I use "Restore Black" by Bondo. It comes with a sponge applicator. I put it on the running boards of the wife's SUV about a year ago and they look showroom new today. The thing I like about it is that it's not slippery like so many of the products with silicone. And, it does not fade like silicone. It works on vinyl, rubber and plastic. Best product for this purpose that I have ever used in over 50 years. You can get it at Pep Boys.
 
#24 ·
ACETONE - - - Acetone soaked paper towel. Do NOT USE SCOTCH BRITE, IT SCRATCHES THE RUBBER ALMOST BEYOND RECOVERY. The acetone removes that white residue that looks like soap scum, but isn't. Just get your folded paper towel soaked, and slowly scrub back and forth in a small area. The trick is to keep a small area wet for 10 - 15 seconds. It didn't seem to affect the silver painted trim, but I kept the excess acetone from reaching it, just in case. Once the rubber is clean, you can coat it with your favorite UV Protectorant...

If you have a super bad spot, even a spot with a divot in it, you can VERY, VERY, SPARINGLY USE Xylol. But be warned that it actually dissolves the rubber. I had an tiny area where I tried scotch brite, and scratched the rubber, and this worked to remove the scratches. Xylol dissolves almost anything. It is probably bad for your liver and brain too...

I have used Acetone to remove varaethene-like finish from cabinets. It worked so well that I didn't need to sand before recoating. (How the heck to you spell varethane, varaethene, varathane, vara...?)
 
#29 ·
I haven't put it on my running boards yet, but I'll second the refinish restorer. I use it on my Avalanche and it does great and lasts a long time. One guy costed his well about 4 years ago and says he hasn't re-treated yet. His still look like new. But I'll also add that the prep is the key. Wash with Dawn, 3 times, wipe with denatured alcohol 3 times, then apply the refinish restorer. I put 3-4 good coats of it on as well. I only did mine a year ago, but it still looks like it did when new. I'll do the running boards soon and document the process.
 
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