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Old 05-19-2007, 07:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Bound steering

HELP !!
I just had to lock up the brakes HARD to avoid hitting a jerk who cut me off on a freeway offramp while turning hard left to avoid hitting him (it allowed his vehicle to pass in front of me). I had to go left or I would have t-boned him at 55 mph. Now my steering wheel is off centered (to the left about 15-20 degrees) and the steering binds when I turn left and right in a parking situation (when I got home). On the freeway coming home there was no vibration but it pulls slightly to the right (no, I did not hit anything during the incident... although I felt like getting out and hitting him). Any ideas?

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Old 05-19-2007, 07:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you ok?
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Old 05-19-2007, 07:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds like the alignment is now out. The way the lower control arms mount make the SSR likely to med alignment after a move like that. Good job avoind the idiot. Had the same thing happen to me a few months back.
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Old 05-19-2007, 07:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah,

I'm fine just can't understand how someone can't see the tub!!!

Thanks for asking. I just got off the phone with Richard (Umpire 13) and we have a plan... I hope!!

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Old 05-19-2007, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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hope you are OK Bruce...mad, but OK
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Old 05-19-2007, 08:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hdflstf View Post
Sounds like the alignment is now out. The way the lower control arms mount make the SSR likely to med alignment after a move like that. Good job avoind the idiot. Had the same thing happen to me a few months back.
Did you break or bend anything when it happened to you?

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Old 05-19-2007, 08:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Did you break or bend anything when it happened to you?

Bruce
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No, I didn't have any steering issue but I barely missed the curb. Had to jump right to avooid the idiot and then left to avoid the curb while the anilock brakes were buzzing under my foot.

My suspicion is that one or both of the lower control arms moved with the loading from the maneuver.
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Old 05-19-2007, 08:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, That's what Richard thinks too. I have to say though...We have GREAT brakes... Thank the good Lord.

I guess this means I'm not going to Cocco's tomorrow...

Thanks for the input.

Linda and Randi... Thanks for the concern and yes I'm fine... Maybe yellow isn't bright enough!!!

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Old 05-20-2007, 09:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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oh man Bruce.. sorry to hear that... I'm sad about my truck being hit on Friday with an L pin... 2 big dents in the front end
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hey Bruce, If Both Wheels Are Standing Tall In Front Of The Tub . All You Need Is To Pull The Tub Up On A Set Of Ramps An Take A Measuring Tape An Meanure From One Place "mark With Marker" In The Front Tires Then Go To Back Side Of The Same Tire An Measure The Same Place Each Time . You Should Measure "for Example" 72 Inches Front Side An 72.25 In Back . You Need A Quarter Inch Of Tow End To Drive Properly Going Down The Road. Turn Your Steering Wheel Strait While Sitting In The Tub. Look At The Tire That Is Angled Or Not Straight . This Tire Is The One To Make The Adjustments On To Bring The Tub Back In Perfect Alignment. If Your Tire Is Leaning Out Or In At The Top Or Bottom You Will Need An Alignment. Take A Good Look While Standing Way Out Front To See If Your Tires Are Straight Up After Setting Toe End. This Is A Common Problem "toe End" When Hard Driving Occurs. Probally Save Your Self A Lot Of Time & Money Setting Your Own Toe End. You Only Have One 13mm Bolt To Loosening & Turn The Turn Buckle With A Pair Of Chanel Locks To Adjust Toe End Only Takes 10 Minutes With Adjustments An Measuring. You Will Need A Friend To Hold The Tape On The Other Wheel When Taking Measurements Make Sure He Is Right On The Same Line Each Time You Take Measurements. P.s. Toe End Means Wedge Shape, Because The Tires Get Wider Apart In Front At Road Speeds. I Hope This Helps # 6363 Good Luck Bruice 5/20/07
1/4 toe in is too much on the SSR, specification calls for 0.10 +/- 0.20 degrees. I would not reccommend setting this with chalk and a tape measure. As a quick check, ok. If you have your own alignment tools and know how to use them, fine.
Since the toe, caster and camber are all affected by each other on the front you would need to verify caster and camber after changing the toe setting. Ideally, the caster and camber should be checked/adjusted first, then the toe set, the re-verify all three settings.
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Yeah,

I'm fine just can't understand how someone can't see the tub!!!
Good job paying attention and using your brains. I figure a lot of people would have simply gone "numb" and plowed straight ahead. Would have been his fault, but would have sucked none-the-less.

Just yesterday while travelling to the bridge tour meeting point, some inattentive drive started pulling into my lane, first without signalling, and obviously without looking! Then, on my way home, another clown was coming on the highway from a ramp (on the left), way too fast no less, then started cutting lanes to the right. He almost side swiped me in his haste to continue moving right. This jerk also wasn't signalling his lane changes. Had I been driving my Silverado, I might have let him do it just to put a hit on his insurance.
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:45 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdflstf View Post
1/4 toe in is too much on the SSR, specification calls for 0.10 +/- 0.20 degrees. I would not reccommend setting this with chalk and a tape measure. As a quick check, ok. If you have your own alignment tools and know how to use them, fine.
Since the toe, caster and camber are all affected by each other on the front you would need to verify caster and camber after changing the toe setting. Ideally, the caster and camber should be checked/adjusted first, then the toe set, the re-verify all three settings.
thank goodness for mechanics and you guys that know what you're talking about...I sure don't.
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Old 05-24-2007, 09:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You absolutely have an alignment issue. What you describe should not happen under those circumstances. The alignment engineering for this chassis very robust. I almost get the feeling that some of the bolts were not tightened correctly during previous service. Incorrect torque on chassis bolts from the factory is almost impossible with the systems in use today.
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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thank goodness for mechanics and you guys that know what you're talking about...I sure don't.
I thought hdflstf was a rocket scientists
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Old 05-25-2007, 01:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Freezer,

You were absloutely right!!!!

The shop which did the previous alignment did not tighten the two bottom inside bolts which allowed the entire assembly to pivot and slide back. I took it to Richard (Umpire13) and his guys at the dealership and they made everything fine. They had me on the road in less than 2 hours... topless and homebound. Everything has been retorqued to factory specs. Richard even had located parts if it was going to be necessary for a parts change. Thank you Richard !!

Bruce
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