I asked this same question this time last year. I don't put that many miles on my 2004 SSR. I have used Mobile 1 in my SSR since I bought it a little over 2 years ago. I changed it this time last year with about the same 2,500 miles of use.
Do you think it's worth the $100 to change the oil with only this much mileage but after one year?
My SSR: Slingshot Yellow VIN 20778 Born 05 May 2005 (05/05/05)
ABSOLUTELY, Carter . . .
I usually drive both The Doophus and The Bummer ('86 Jeep CJ-7 w/ 103,000 miles) about 2k to 3k miles a year and always have the oil changed each year.
The cost of a full service is PEANUTS compared to a major engine problem.
That is such a joke. If you run it continuously, a million miles, it doesn't wear out. Well duh, neither does regular oil. It's contamination from real world driving that's the problem. Change Mobil 1 at least yearly.
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That is such a joke. If you run it continuously, a million miles, it doesn't wear out. Well duh, neither does regular oil. It's contamination from real world driving that's the problem. Change Mobil 1 at least yearly.
They did not run Mobile 1 continuously for 1-million miles. They changed the oil every 7500 miles but there was little to no wear on the engine after 1-million miles. Did you check out the link?
My mistake, they didn't say that in the text. The point remains, oil, real or synthetic, does not wear out, and their test doesn't reflect the real world.
Change oil at least once a year.
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My mistake, they didn't say that in the text. The point remains, oil, real or synthetic, does not wear out, and their test doesn't reflect the real world.
Change oil at least once a year.
My SSR: Slingshot Yellow VIN 20778 Born 05 May 2005 (05/05/05)
Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce
That is such a joke. If you run it continuously, a million miles, it doesn't wear out. Well duh, neither does regular oil. It's contamination from real world driving that's the problem. Change Mobil 1 at least yearly.
My mistake, they didn't say that in the text. The point remains, oil, real or synthetic, does not wear out, and their test doesn't reflect the real world.
Change oil at least once a year.
Oil doesn't wear out, but the additives do wear out and are depleated and have to be replaced to keep the protection level of the oil where it should be. That's why you have to change your oil. FYI the better the oil is filtered the longer it lastes in the engine. Adding a bypass oil filter that filters down to less than 1 micron can allow up to 50k miles between changes with proper oil montering by oil analisis.
I asked this same question this time last year. I don't put that many miles on my 2004 SSR. I have used Mobile 1 in my SSR since I bought it a little over 2 years ago. I changed it this time last year with about the same 2,500 miles of use.
Do you think it's worth the $100 to change the oil with only this much mileage but after one year?
My '04 just turned 15,000 miles and just had an oil change.
I pulled my service files and I have had the oil and filter changed 6 times.
I think $100 is a bit excessive for an oil change even with Mobil 1.
Oil doesn't wear out, but the additives do wear out and are depleated and have to be replaced to keep the protection level of the oil where it should be. That's why you have to change your oil. FYI the better the oil is filtered the longer it lastes in the engine. Adding a bypass oil filter that filters down to less than 1 micron can allow up to 50k miles between changes with proper oil montering by oil analisis.
Sure, the additives are important for real world driving. You can just pump that oil through a roll of toilet paper, but it won't be good for crap afterward.
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Sure, the additives are important for real world driving. You can just pump that oil through a roll of toilet paper, but it won't be good for crap afterward.
The additives and the dirt the oil picks up are the reason you have to change the oil. I think you are missing the point I was making about a bypass filter, that by keeping the oil cleaner the additives won't be depleated as fast and therefore the oil will last longer. This has been proven with over the road semi trucks using bypass filters and proper oil testing, they have been able to extend the oil drain intervals up to 100k miles and even longer with synthetic oils. So going 50k miles with a gas engine and synthetic oil isn't out of the question with a bypass filter. Would I personally go this long on my R, no as it would be over 10 years between changes. I change mine at least once a year. And as for using tp for a filter, there was or still is a kit that allowed you to do that.
Many of the additives in modern motor oil, do their thing while the engine is shut down. The cooling, dormant, heating, cycles are murder. Long haul diesels are the same as that Mobil 1 commercial, constant running, rarely shut down, and not at all like the abuse our personal vehicles get.
My understanding of by-pass filters is if they get too dirty and restrict the oil flow, the oil will by-pass the filter to prevent the pressure drop through the filter from starving the engine of sufficient lubrication. You seem to be talking about something different, however, so edumacate me please.
If you click on the link you will see toilet paper filters are still available, but I certainly wouldn't use one. I can't think of a better way to ensure the engine won't get sufficient oil flow, short of draining the crankcase. Hard to believe they still sell them, although they might be ok for low rpm, steady state, equipment engines.
For anyone that's confused by this discussion, just change your damn oil.
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Many of the additives in modern motor oil, do their thing while the engine is shut down. The cooling, dormant, heating, cycles are murder. Long haul diesels are the same as that Mobil 1 commercial, constant running, rarely shut down, and not at all like the abuse our personal vehicles get.
My understanding of by-pass filters is if they get too dirty and restrict the oil flow, the oil will by-pass the filter to prevent the pressure drop through the filter from starving the engine of sufficient lubrication. You seem to be talking about something different, however, so edumacate me please.
If you click on the link you will see toilet paper filters are still available, but I certainly wouldn't use one. I can't think of a better way to ensure the engine won't get sufficient oil flow, short of draining the crankcase. Hard to believe they still sell them, although they might be ok for low rpm, steady state, equipment engines.
For anyone that's confused by this discussion, just change your damn oil.
The bypass filter I am talking about is just that a filter that takes oil from the oiling system and passes it through a filter then returns it back to the oilpan. They are extra fine filtration down to less than 1 micron and it takes longer to pass all the oil through it because it is designed to super clean the oil only and not for a quick pass through a filter before lubing the engine. They are used in conjunction with the regular oil filter. I wish I knew where my info was on them, I could post up some links to them.
As for the tp filter, I am with you on choking off the oil flow to the engine.
And like you said, just change your oil at least once a year.
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
Here's a location that works nicely, for a remote filter mount, in the SSR chassis. The Gen 3/4 oiling system will definitely benefit from increased filter capacity along with increased pan capacity. On the stock oiling system, the debate should really center around when do I change my filter, not when do I change my oil!
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Ah so, thank you. That's an interesting set up, and a good idea as long as it doesn't rob the top end of sufficient oil pressure.
The fly in the ointment is, if you have to change to the corvette pan, and you'd have to change the sump, and I guess to one of Left Coast's crossmembers(which is a damn good idea anyway). I can see this adding up to the cost of a lot of oil/filter changes.
I think for now, I'll just change the oil when the DIC says 50%.
Oh and Topspin, I shudder to think what it would cost to pay someone to do all the stuff you did to your oiling system system.
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Ah so, thank you. That's an interesting set up, and a good idea as long as it doesn't rob the top end of sufficient oil pressure.
The fly in the ointment is, if you have to change to the corvette pan, and you'd have to change the sump, and I guess to one of Left Coast's crossmembers(which is a damn good idea anyway). I can see this adding up to the cost of a lot of oil/filter changes.
I think for now, I'll just change the oil when the DIC says 50%.
Oh and Topspin, I shudder to think what it would cost to pay someone to do all the stuff you did to your oiling system system.
Your welcome. I am now going to look at doing this to mine, eventhough I still will change it a 5k miles. I have done this to semi's wothout a pressure issue as the oil pump, pumps more oil than the engine needs for lubercation. That's why there is a pressure relief valve in them. The bypass filters filter the oil slow enough that they normaly have a pressure restriction valve in them to keep from bleeding off too much oil pressure.
Topspin's oil mods are way beyond normal mods! If I had the engine out for rebuild, then I would consider the C-6 pan and the left coast crossmember.
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