I figured out a simple way to bleed/flush the fliud from the clutch system. It's not perfect but the clutch pedal feels much better now.
I went to the local grocery store and found a 'flavor injector' on the baking goods aisle ~$4.00.
Bought a small can of Dot 4 fluid which is compatible with Dot 3 but has a higher boiling point.
Used the 'injector' to suck out the fluid in the MC and then poured in some new fluid. Cycled the clutch pedal about 20 times. Repeated the suck the fluid out and refill. Repeat again. At this point, the fluid won't look perfect but it will look much better as will the pedal performance.
I would say to repeat this anytime the clutch fluid starts looking bad or when the pedal starts acting funny.
One word of caution-- DON'T depress the clutch pedal when the MC is empty as you may suck an air bubble into the system and will need a vacuum pump to get it out.
Attached is a picture of the 'injector'. Be sure to wash it when done.
Yep that'l work! I have used a "turkey baster" for years to suck the fluid out of brake and clutch reservoirs and then filling with new fluid before bleeding the system. If I am going to the trouble of bleeding brakes, I'm going to do it with NEW fluid.
Blast
__________________ 2004 Ultra-Violet "The Grape One"
Took your advice as I was getting concerned about the dark color of my clutch fluid. This is a very simple procedure and I was pleasantly surprised with the results. Not only did my clutch come back to a full feel it operates smoother as well. That "flavor injector" worked great to suck the old fluid from the reservoir. I did notice a little dark residue on the bottom of the reservoir and probably will "flush" the reservoir when I do the oil change from now on. I'm not sure if it was the fact of clean fluid or the DOT 4 but I like it. I recommend this to others with the 6-spd. Thanks for the tip!
I have a vacuum fluid extractor. Does it matter if the clutch fluid is warm or cold when the extraction is done? Thanks, Frank
Liquivac oil extractor...from Northern Tool
I can think of one reason to be careful if the fluid is warm. So long as you refill the reservior promtly after removing the fluid, the fluid on the system won't cool and contract which could pull an air bubble into the system.
That said, change it cold is preferred. If you change it hot, just be sure to refill shortly after removing the fluid. My estimate would be 5 minutes to refill when hot (just a guess but it should be enough to keep you out of trouble).
I hate to burst everyone's bubble here, but you're only changing the fluid in the reservoir; you're missing the fluid contained in the master cylinder, lines, and slave cylinder.
I can't help you with the proper procedure (if there is one) as I don't have an '05-'06 shop manual, but you're wasting your time.
My SSR: 06/6sd Sil on Blk-2SS, Chrome pack,Magnaflow. #23284
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdflstf
I can think of one reason to be careful if the fluid is warm. So long as you refill the reservior promtly after removing the fluid, the fluid on the system won't cool and contract which could pull an air bubble into the system.
That said, change it cold is preferred. If you change it hot, just be sure to refill shortly after removing the fluid. My estimate would be 5 minutes to refill when hot (just a guess but it should be enough to keep you out of trouble).
I would do it cold. Just checking to see if there is a preferred technique. Thanks
__________________ SSR 1st Chevy/1st 6spd- Saw it, loved it, bought it.
The others:
02 Procharged Mustang GT Conv. 5sd
07 2 dr Jeep Rubicon 3"lift/35x12.5MT's - skids & bumpers
06 X3
Cole Haans
My SSR: 06 Pacific Blue 6 speed, 3SS, Chrome Package #23714 BOD: 3/2/06
Quote:
Originally Posted by joel
I hate to burst everyone's bubble here, but you're only changing the fluid in the reservoir; you're missing the fluid contained in the master cylinder, lines, and slave cylinder.
I can't help you with the proper procedure (if there is one) as I don't have an '05-'06 shop manual, but you're wasting your time.
I thought the same thing Joel. I put my truck on a lift looking for the bleed port at the other end and I can find it. The line goes into the bellhousing at about the 11:00 position. Surely you don't have to remove the tranny in order to bleed the system at the internal slave cylinder! I was thinking there would be another line coming out from the slave cylinder with the bleed port but I couldn't find it.
During last weekend's Barstow car show hdflstf told me of a way to bleed the system from the reservoir. I talked to a few others this past week and they heard of the same procedure.
Since my fluid looked like dark coffee (4,800 miles on the truck, bought new on 18 Aug, 06 and I did not have any pedal issues yet) I decided to drain the reservoir and install fresh fluid. After refilling I cycled the pedal about 20 times and looked at the fluid again. It was very dark again. I sucked it out and refilled ran the clutch through again about 20 times and the fluid wasn't as dark but it was still noticeable darker than before. I went through this process two more times and have driven the truck this weekend and the fluid still looks new.
I too am very interested in reading what the manual says about bleeding these hydraulic systems. Are they any different than the other GM vehicles that had internal slave cyclinders? All of my manual tranny vehicles had the external type and were very easy to bleed.
If anyone has a SSR manual or a late Camaro/Firebird book can you look in it and see what it says? I thought I'd have my SSR manual by now but my other half told me I'd have to wait until my birthday next month!
I hate to burst everyone's bubble here, but you're only changing the fluid in the reservoir; you're missing the fluid contained in the master cylinder, lines, and slave cylinder.
I can't help you with the proper procedure (if there is one) as I don't have an '05-'06 shop manual, but you're wasting your time.
I understand the amount of fluid left in the system is going to contaminate the fresh, but it was not a waste of time as the operation of my clutch improved. This may be just delaying a future failure, but it works good now and I consider it a good tip if you have a 6-spd with clutch woes. It is worth a try at the very least.
I hate to burst everyone's bubble here, but you're only changing the fluid in the reservoir; you're missing the fluid contained in the master cylinder, lines, and slave cylinder.
I can't help you with the proper procedure (if there is one) as I don't have an '05-'06 shop manual, but you're wasting your time.
That's why I said it's not perfect in my original post. Feel free to do better though. Next step would be to disassemble the system every time the fluid gets that dirty color.
As far as the proper procedure goes - there is none that is practical for most of us. Of course if you have the GM vacuum attachment you can disassemble the system and change the fluid that way.
Sounds like the "flush" is pretty much standard operating procedure over there.
I ran across that info about vettes too, and have flushed mine using an animal syringe to suck the fluid out when I saw it turning dark, several times now.
For the last 500 or so miles it has remained amber looking in the reservoir.
Obviously the heat subjected to the fluid has to be causing this problem.
My SSR: Silver on Black Final Prod 6 speed #23387, Signature #23, Signature #12
Art,
I'm a bit confused about one issue with the clutch reservoir cap. With brake/clutch fluid being hygroscopic, why is the cap vented?
My thought is that a non-vented cap would do much better at keeping moisture out. There seems to be plenty of airspace in the reservoir.
I'm adding polished covers to all the caps, and it would be much easier to add a cover to the clutch resevoir cap if that vent area at the top was eliminated.
What natural disaster can I expect by sealing the top?
__________________
Ray
No longer One of the "Blues Brothers"
Final Production Silver on Black/chrome/6-speed #23387
Signature #23
Signature #12 - The Gibson Guitar truck
Can the line be shielded or insulated to isolate from heat.
That's currently under investigation. Insulation will only increase the time it takes to get to the same result. Shielding may be a better way to go depending on the offending heat source. Some reading has suggested the main problem is the slave getting heated by the engine and since it is inside the bellhousing, there is no good way to dissipate the heat.
I'm a bit confused about one issue with the clutch reservoir cap. With brake/clutch fluid being hygroscopic, why is the cap vented?
My thought is that a non-vented cap would do much better at keeping moisture out. There seems to be plenty of airspace in the reservoir.
I'm adding polished covers to all the caps, and it would be much easier to add a cover to the clutch resevoir cap if that vent area at the top was eliminated.
What natural disaster can I expect by sealing the top?
It's vented because there is a volume change inside the reservior every time the clutch is used.
Hygroscopic - yes but so far, that has not been our issue. Long term it could be but regular changes will eliminate that issue.
Disaster - broken or cracked reservior or blowing the unclamped line off the bottom of the reservior or master cylinder.
That's why I said it's not perfect in my original post. Feel free to do better though. Next step would be to disassemble the system every time the fluid gets that dirty color.
As far as the proper procedure goes - there is none that is practical for most of us. Of course if you have the GM vacuum attachment you can disassemble the system and change the fluid that way.
There is no bleeder on the system...
I found asking the dealer to do a flush was the most practical for me.
I need to get used to checking the color of the clutch fluid.
I found asking the dealer to do a flush was the most practical for me.
I need to get used to checking the color of the clutch fluid.
I think that's our first line of defence. Seems like mine will do dark if I make any road trip over a couple of hours. Short trips around town don't seem to matter much.
SSR 1st Chevy/1st 6spd- Saw it, loved it, bought it. 
....or not 
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