My drivers door makes three distinct clicks when it is fully opened and closed. There is a hinge stop with detants for partial open points. Where the bar attaches to the frame there is a pin dowel. At each stop the bar spring tension makes a loud click. The pin seems to be a phillips head screw but the metal is very soft and i am afraid it may strip, also a tough angle to reach with a screw driver. Is the a bushing or o ring or something that wears out. It drives me nuts every time i open the car door, cant sneek out for a ride. Any help Please. I did try grease no go. thx Rand
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
I believe I had the very same problem....although the sound on my R was a little more like a bang, bang, bang, rather than a click, click, click. The part you are referring to is officially called a door check and GM does not have the part any longer...they say it has been discontinued. So at the suggestion of the Fanatics I had to go to the deceased car yards And find a used one. I tried to fix the noisy one without success. Spalding Auto Parts in Spokane, 1-800-366-2070, Ryan, was very helpful and sold me one for $25. I had tried other yards and no returned phone calls. Either left or right side works...they are the same. There may be other model GM parts that fit but it is tricky....Dragon2u on the Fanatic site thought he got hold of one off another vehicle but it was the wrong size. So my recommendation is you get one OFF AN SSR. Remove the door panel, remove the rubber guard, remove the two nuts and the one bolt (all 10mm of course), take ti out thru the door and put in the new one in reverse order. It is a 20 minute job.
I think I am the resident expert on door checks. PM me if you have questions. Good luck.
Lou, Did you remove the phillips head dowel, is it removable? what i am thinking is if i can remove the pin i can then put an o ring or bushing inside the pin hole, this will mitigate the metal on metal click. Does this make sense? thx R
My SSR: 05 Silver 1SB, Born on 08/25/04, Lighted WindsuppSSR, Flowmaster 40, Black Wheels w/ Firestone Tires
I read on a previous post that the door check for the Trailblazer is the same as the SSR. I have a Trailblazer SS and the door check appears to be the same as my SSR.
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
Quote:
Originally Posted by randayn
Lou, Did you remove the phillips head dowel, is it removable? what i am thinking is if i can remove the pin i can then put an o ring or bushing inside the pin hole, this will mitigate the metal on metal click. Does this make sense? thx R
I did not remove the pin. In my case I could tell it was coming from inside the unit. But, if you are going to fix it come heck or high water, you have nothing to loose by trying the washer idea. If you destroy the thing or if your ides doesn't work, you will just have get a different one. Give it a shot and let us know how it turns out.
Siveressr05 is correct, the Trailblazer and Envoy is suppose to have the same door check (but still not available from GM). The key is the distance of the two bolts the fastens to door needs to be slightly bigger than 2".
My SSR: 03 Black Auto, Custom Flames, Windsupressor,Hard Saddle Bags, Bed Rail, 1SB, K&N FIPK, VIN 0718
The GM trailblazer door check part # is 15163692. See below for other vehicles that use this same part #. Do a Google search with the part # I sound it available at several sights..
Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777
Just to finish off this thread....
The first part the dealer got for me which matched the number stamped on the part on my SSR would not fit. A call to GM by the dealer resulted in getting another number, 15163692, which was also given to me by a fanatic on a GM Parts Giant price/part listing. The NEW and CORRECT part number, 15163692, has been discontinued so says GM and GM Parts Giant. I guess my only recourse now is to find/get one from a wreck. Anyone know of a used parts dealer that might sell me one?
If you have some wrecking yards nearby there are several vehicles that use the same door check so don't worry about looking for "SSR only" parts:
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
I'm not saying don't do a Google search....BUT when I needed the part all the parts places would take the order and then a day later say it was not available. You will need to find someone that "wants" to help you. Good luck.
My SSR: not the prettiest, nor the fastest but she's my bitchin SSR!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator
You have found the "Clicking" I see.
Here is a picture of the part you need, I don't have the part #.
Lonnie gave it to me.
Maybe Doug has some in the Parts Exchange. He always manages to help or at least steer us in the right direction.
Dicktator
How did you get the Arm pushed through to the backside of the container?
looks like a knarly spring in there. I have tried
to force the arm through short of squeezing it in a vise!
Once removed from the R' the Arm won't budge.
Thx, Mike
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
Mike,
You are right about that!! I tried to move the arm and nothing. I suppose you could remove the whole mechanism, open the door, reattach with the one bolt that holds it to the jam, rest it against the door hole and close the door slowly??? Guess when it is attached the long lever called the door makes it move easily.
Since I got the used one from Spalding.....I don't even think about it any longer.
My SSR: not the prettiest, nor the fastest but she's my bitchin SSR!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777
Mike,
You are right about that!! I tried to move the arm and nothing. I suppose you could remove the whole mechanism, open the door, reattach with the one bolt that holds it to the jam, rest it against the door hole and close the door slowly??? Guess when it is attached the long lever called the door makes it move easily.
Since I got the used one from Spalding.....I don't even think about it any longer.
Lou
Lou, Looks as if you lucked out getting a good one from Spalding.
Did they varify the smileage of the R' they removed it from?
Thx, Mike
Remove door panel, pull down plastic moisture film until it clears opening on door.
Pictures
1. Remove 10mm bolt
2. Remove rubber dust/water boot
3. Remove two 10mm nuts
4. Reach in door opening and remove unit
5. Replace with new unit.
1. Ground off small end of bolt.
2. Punched out shoulder bolt
3. Bolt has small end that has flat spot to stop bolt from turning. I don't know why.
4. Bolt wears hole at the top end of bracket until elongated which gives the famous "Click".
5. Need to find repair for old one, let you know when I come up with something.
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
Smileage
Quote:
Originally Posted by nulogic1
Lou, Looks as if you lucked out getting a good one from Spalding.
Did they varify the smileage of the R' they removed it from?
Thx, Mike
No, but came off pass side.... usually a lot less usage. Don't really care...for
$25 (plus $10) it was a steal. New (if there was one would have been over $6o for me here in Hawaii.
My SSR: not the prettiest, nor the fastest but she's my bitchin SSR!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777
No, but came off pass side.... usually a lot less usage. Don't really care...for
$25 (plus $10) it was a steal. New (if there was one would have been over $6o for me here in Hawaii.
Lou
Lou, I have bought parts from Spaulding. They are good and fast. Turns out that the passenger side clicks also on my R'. I'm watching Dicktador to see what he comes up with.
Mike
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
Door check part
Quote:
Originally Posted by nulogic1
Lou, I have bought parts from Spaulding. They are good and fast. Turns out that the passenger side clicks also on my R'. I'm watching Dicktador to see what he comes up with.
Mike
So sorry....it is harmless but irritating. Everyone but me calls it a "click". Mine sounded more like someone was inside the door and hitting the door jam with a small hammer. Louder than the sound of the door locks going up or down. I don't have the part any longer, but it sure didn't seem like there was any play in the hinge pin on mine......isn't that what others are indicating where the problem is? I thought about taking it apart and seeing what was inside but I guess I got lazy and didn't. But it sure sounded to me that the problem was inside the mechanism and not the aforementioned pin.
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