That is one beautiful setup...............makes my heart thump, thump, thumpity, thump thump...........one question.....doesn't anyone make a polished and plated alt. for the SSR......Would be a great addition....from the looks standpoint.... Since this thread was posted, I have found a source for ......Polished or Polished and Plated.....or Black powder coated , 145 amp alt.----------Also can be had in 200 amp. if you want. So they are available......if there is enough intrest in here.......Thay might be able to do something on the price......More info to come.
Last edited by Whitewolf : 10-20-2005 at 09:24 AM.
Reason: POLISHED AND PLATED 145 amp. Alt.
One question, why didn't they set up the weight and hp@ 50mph. Those are two very important factors. They replicate the weight of the vehicle and hp to offset wind resistance. Hey, I'm not an expert, and they are. I wonder if it was just an oversite or maybe, I just don't know what Im talking about. Just ask em to make sure.
Looking at the torque numbers and how low of an RPM level it gets a 100 lb improvement is quite impressive. I bet thats going to be real fun just in normal driving at low RPM levels. I bet you can't wait to pick it up and take it home for a ride. Sure looks nice too.
Looking forward to seeing that machine in action soon around here in SOCAL.
Man that's just awesome. Any idea if this is where they are setting all the tunes at? Or did you tell them to raise the boost another LB and forget the warranty?
Zack
The drivetrain power loss with the 6-speed is more like 13%. At least 17% with the automatic.
Some BS car magazines like to throw around larger loss numbers (as high as 25% for automatic drivetrains) to make their "successful projects" look more successful, but MODERN drvietrains are a lot more efficient than that, as factories try to eke out the best EPA mileage ratings they can.
The "50 mph hp" number is only used when a dyno is run in STEADY STATE mode, not in "sweep" (accelerated run) mode. It is used to guide the technician in how much drag must be created and applied by the dyno to accurately simulate "50 mph cruise". The more automated dynos will automatically create a reasonably accurate drag environment so that a vehicle brought in for diagnostics can be put under the right conditions to reproduce whatever problem the client has asked the technician to diagnose.
Some unscrupulous, or merely uneducated, dyno operators try to hold "dyno races" where they use these factors and "race" one vehicle against another on the dyno and declare a "winner". These are pure BS in terms of any relationship to the real world, as they apply only the SMALL part of the TOTAL load the vehicle would be subjected to in a REAL race. The biggest load in a real race of course is the inertia of the vehicle being accelerated. On a sweep mode dyno, the only things being accelerated are the dyno roller (possibly with a constant artificial load being electronically applied) and the rotating components in the vehicle drivetrain.
You got GREAT results with your modification program. 470 rwhp is excellent for what you did. I didn't notice the ambient cnditions and correction factors mentioned anywhere. What were they?
Temperature
Air pressure
Humidity
Elevation
Overall combined correction factor used
I am on my way to go pick it up this morning. I will have the printed dyno reports to look over by tonight. They should be a little more informative. I also understand the Mustang Dyno shows about 10-15% less HP then a Dynojet.
The differences between the "steady state" (e.g. Mustang)and "inertia" (e.g. Dynojet) dynos are more complex than a 15% difference. I know were that 15% thing came from originally, but it turns out to not be accurate at all under many conditions. I ahve persinally had one of my motorcycles dyno tested back to back on steady state and then inertia dynos, and a plot of the difference by rpm is not linear and actually is psotive at some points and negative at others!
The problems in comparing steady state and inertia dyno curves are too big to explain in a posting thread, but what it comes down to is that we are trying to compare power measurements taken under VERY different circumstances:
- The steady state dyno has the engine sit at a steady rpm for each reading, while the inertia dyno has it accelerating
- Fuel system and ignition system will each perform differently under steady state versus accelerating circumstances
- In steady state, there are no diversions of engine power to accelerate rotating driveline components. In inertia mode, MANY internal rotating parts with high moments of inertia are being accelerated, diverting engine power from acclerating the dyno roller to accelerating THEM
- Each BRAND of dyno, regardless of whether steady state or inertia, has its own philosophy on "adding back" driveline and dyno generated power losses, because no client wants to be "disappointed" compared to their expectations, and because no dyno manufacturer wants to be the one that "gives the lowest results" (even if more accurate!)
- In most (all?) cases the losses "added back" are estimated versus actually measured, and in some cases are baldfaced guesstimates or even worse known "untruths"
- Vehicles with non-stock drivelines will generate "anamalous" results because the friction factors and moments of inertia assumed by even conscientious dyno manufacturers become plainly inaccurate in those cases, and sometimes WILDLY inaccurate. For example, the motorcycle mentioned above has carbon fiber wheels, lihtweight alloy sprockets and lightweight undersized chain, lighweight low inertia clutch assembly, a 9 OUNCE flywheel versus the stock 4 POUND one, etc. It blows MANY dyno manufacturer assumptions away.
- Vehicles with stiffer than stock gearing (like 4.56 geared SSRs!!), or evhicles dynoed in the wrong gear, get artificially penalized on an INERTIA dyno because they accelerate through the rpm range quicker, thus driving up the inertia-driven diversions mentioned earlier
- Dyno temperature correction factors make assumptions about engine "condition verasatility" that are just plain wrong when applied to real, commercially available car and motorcycle engines. I seriosuly doubt anyone can find ONE engine in a real car or bike that will produced identical power curves after "correction" after testing at temperatures ranging from 60 degrees to 100 degrees.
My carefully considered opinion after years of wrestling with too many inconsistencies and complexities and too little reliably proven acuurate data and information, is that there are almost no dyno curves that can ACCURATELY be compared, even if done on the same dyno. But unfortunately, these are the best tools available to us, and the price is affordable, abd we do get SOME useful information, so we all do it.
Sorry to sound so negative, but I have been studying this for a very long time, and have the engineering and physics training and experience to do it better than a lot of other folks, and it still leaves me not confident and definitely not happy.
I just got back home from picking it up, the drive is 161 miles.
First impression: I could feel that the power was alot different then before. I tended to run the rpms up real high around 4500-6500 before the Radix. It know feels the best all the way from 2500-6500 rpms, it literally sits you back in the seat. On the highway it can best be described as a Freight Train (good analogy BlownChevy) it is unreal from 65-120 on a 3rd gear drop (be ready to shift real fast). The power is so linear that you dont notice how fast you are accelerating until you look at the cars that were just next to you, they are now back 1/8 mile or more within a few seconds. Getting over to my house I had a chance to run a good 1st to 2nd romp and my neck is hurting. This thing revs as fast as my 2002 Z06 did, I am going back out for a little drive.
Keep in mind that this is completely stock other then the Supercharger. I still have to do LT Headers, Full Exhaust, Intake Mods, 4.10 Gears, then I will probably need some different pullies for the back of the supercharger to get the boost at 6-7 psi.
I need to do something about the traction first. It will still launch pretty good out of the hole from an idle and once you are moving it stays put real good. I just want some stickier tires that are a little wider (335/30R20), these are actually 1" shorter so it will effect the feel also.
Well, I think it might depend on the Dyno jet you use. If it has the eddy current applied currectly, you can get nearly the same results on the Mustang Dyno. It has cooled off considerably here in Mobile and the dyno numers are acctually higher on the Mustang dyno. conditions are not the same I know, but it would be silly to keep comparing the two. I was only wanting to verify air/fuel and it is fine. Also, my base run was on Mustang.
The best part is the torque. I stay over 350 ftlbs from 2000 to 5250 rpm. The pull is great and the max is now, with current temps, over 370 ftlbs with max at 3640. It pulls right where I
