Electrical Mystery

Old Chief · 10-17-2007, 10:43 PM

Hi gang, I need some suggestions, or maybe some past experiences, and resolutions.

This past Sunday, I washed and detailed my '05 to go play golf Monday morning. Drove it Sunday evening to go pick up some take out food. Everything normal. Got home, parked it in my shop, locked it (the truck) up, and set the alarm.

Went to get in it Monday morning, pushed the remote unlock button, and nothing happened. Thought my remote battery must have died, so unlocked the truck with the key. When I got in it, I noticed no courtesy lights came on. Put key in ignition, turned it on, and nothing, not even the various warning lights on the dash illuminated. Horn wouldn't even blow; I mean everything (but the little flashing light on the radio) was absolutely DEAD. Tried to open the rear deck with the glove box button, to rescue my golf clubs, and it wouldn't open.

Hooked up battery charger to open the deck lid, and noticed the voltmeter on the charger (before I applied power) read about 4 VDC. I mean that's DEAD! Applied power, popped the deck lid, and went to play golf.

When I got home, I hooked up the charger again, and it still read 4 VDC. Put it on a 10 Amp charge, and the charging ammeter went all the way up to 10 Amps. After about 20 minutes, noticed that the ammeter was back down to about a 1 amp draw, showing that the battery was almost charged. Unhooked the charger, tried the truck, and it started right up. Checked everything I knew to check, and all was normal. Hooked the charger back up, and set it for a 2 hour, 10 Amp charge, just to insure the battery was fully charged. After the charge, I made sure all truck electrical functions were off, and unhooked the positive battery lead under the hood, and just tapped it to its connection to see if there was any sign of a spark (like something was drawing current) but there was no sparks at all. Then, just to be sure, I hooked an ammeter in-line between the removed cable and its mounting stud. There was no current draw at all. Hooked everything back up, and tried the starter. Truck started right up, everything normal.

I still haven't driven it, since this happened, but tried it Tuesday morning; everything normal. Tried it again this morning, everything normal. Again tonight...normal.

What could have killed the battery, in about 8 hours time? The headlights went out when I parked it Sunday evening. I know, because I always watch to make sure they do. Nothing was left "on" at all. Could this have anything to do with the infamous ignition switch defects? Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? I need some good ideas, because I don't want to get stranded somewhere, miles from home.

Thanks,
Old Chief

DOOPHUS · 10-17-2007, 10:48 PM

Sorry, Old Chief, no expert here but is it the original battery?

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Old Chief · 10-17-2007, 10:56 PM

Yes, it's the original battery, but the truck only has just over 17K miles on it. Oh, and I forgot to mention in my original post, that after the 2 hour charge, I put my battery load tester on it, gave it a full load, and the tester said the battery was good.

Old Chief

Silver Wolf · 10-17-2007, 10:56 PM

I would have to say check the battery itself and see if everything is clean since these batteries are under the SSR. Maybe you have something attached to the battery. That would be my next step.

DOOPHUS · 10-17-2007, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Chief

Yes, it's the original battery, but the truck only has just over 17K miles on it. Oh, and I forgot to mention in my original post, that after the 2 hour charge, I put my battery load tester on it, gave it a full load, and the tester said the battery was good.

Old Chief

Unfortunately, my experience with batteries has always been "less than positive" to put it mildly.

So far, my SSR has been ok with the original battery (knock on wood) but my previous truck (Chevy Silverado 4x4) "chewed up" batteries like peanuts. Rarely would one last more than a couple of years in spite of numerous load and drain tests.

Good Luck,

Curt

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burchtree11 · 10-17-2007, 11:17 PM

My 05 SSR is fine but the exact thing happened to me on Monday morning with
my recently purchased(3 months ago) 2007 Silverado. Ran fine Sunday evening,parked and locked it up. Monday morning, totally dead. Called the GM 800 #,had the truck hauled to my dealer who checked it out and found no unusual current draw. They charged the battery and kept the truck overnite Monday to make sure. I picked it up on Tues and has run fine today;but now im a little "gun shy". Only comment was that with the number of computers on board that perhaps one "glitched" and might do it again.With the truck electrical system being totally dead,any code that might have been there was gone. humm

Maui Mike · 10-17-2007, 11:20 PM

I'd change the battery and the ignition switch. Seems to cure most problems.

Good Luck and keep us updated please.

dingbat · 10-18-2007, 07:21 AM

Battery could have been at the almost dead stage when you parked it. Lost enough power overnight to kill everything. With charging it up you brought it back to a normal charge. It might hold it for a few days or a couple weeks. It will probably go down again.

Beach potato · 10-18-2007, 07:45 AM

Some of the older posts point to the ignition, especially when battery problems pop up...good luck!!

Mike in AZ · 10-18-2007, 08:22 AM

There have been a couple of members that have had a bad ignition switch cause the battery to drain. There has been no concrete proof, but a couple of really good theories..... The most plausible is that the ignition switch did not properly power down off all of the systems. It could have left one or more of the computers partially or fully powered. That, in turn, would have drained your battery overnight.

You could have the dealer order a new ignition switch (P/N 15242754) under a warranty claim. He could use the reason of "upgraded to new switch to eliminate random computer problems". The old P/N switch is a known root cause of a vast array of electrical faults across a number of vehicle model lines and GM came out with a new one to fix them. The switch is only ~$32 (retail) or ~$16 (through RSSRTOY, BYERS or others) and your the dealership should be willing to replace it.

It's a cheap fix. This will eliminate one of the strong possibilities and allow you a little confidence back into your cruising.

Regards,

Mike

Mr. Sinister · 10-18-2007, 08:24 AM

I had a cooler plugged in the back plug [you know one of those 6pack ref coolers] and in about 2 maybe 3 hrs the battery wouldn't start .I got a jump and all is well ,that was 2 years ago March and I haven't had any other problems with my OEM batt.

shiftz33 · 10-25-2007, 12:32 AM

My SSR battery was completely dead this morning, just like Old Chief stated in this thread. I pulled out the Optima battery and put the OEM battery back in. I've had the OEM battery on a battery maintainer since I put the Optima battery in.

I drove my SSR two days ago. I normally drive it every day.

The Optima battery is not taking a charge very quickly. If the same low battery condition happens again, at least I'll have had a different battery in place to show that it wasn't the Optima battery.

I have two spare ignition switches as well, in case that is needed.

What fun!

WOW_FCTR · 10-25-2007, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiftz33

My SSR battery was completely dead this morning, just like Old Chief stated in this thread. I pulled out the Optima battery and put the OEM battery back in. I've had the OEM battery on a battery maintainer since I put the Optima battery in.

I drove my SSR two days ago. I normally drive it every day.

The Optima battery is not taking a charge very quickly. If the same low battery condition happens again, at least I'll have had a different battery in place to show that it wasn't the Optima battery.

I have two spare ignition switches as well, in case that is needed.

What fun!

Did you see this post? Could be your problem!
Whatever it Takes

Old Chief · 10-25-2007, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiftz33

My SSR battery was completely dead this morning, just like Old Chief stated in this thread. I pulled out the Optima battery and put the OEM battery back in. I've had the OEM battery on a battery maintainer since I put the Optima battery in.

I drove my SSR two days ago. I normally drive it every day.

The Optima battery is not taking a charge very quickly. If the same low battery condition happens again, at least I'll have had a different battery in place to show that it wasn't the Optima battery.

I have two spare ignition switches as well, in case that is needed.

What fun!

Be careful if you think your Optima battery is starting to fail. I bought one at Sears in March of '04 to put in my '41 Chevy street rod. Paid $159.00 for it, and it came with a 7 year limited warranty. The first 3 years, you got a free replacement if the battery failed, then prorated for the last 4 years. This past August, just 5 months after the free replacement period, it died, wouldn't hold a charge. I took it back to Sears, and they confirmed that the battery was bad. Just 5 months after the free replacement period, what do you think they allowed me for the bad battery? I expected to get, at least $100. WRONG !!! They allowed me $42.00 for it!

So-o-o-o, if you have any doubts about your Optima battery, make sure you take it back during the free replacement period. BTW, Sears, at least the one I shop at, doesn't carry Optima anymore.

shiftz33 · 10-25-2007, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Chief

Be careful if you think your Optima battery is starting to fail. I bought one at Sears in March of '04 to put in my '41 Chevy street rod. Paid $159.00 for it, and it came with a 7 year limited warranty. The first 3 years, you got a free replacement if the battery failed, then prorated for the last 4 years. This past August, just 5 months after the free replacement period, it died, wouldn't hold a charge. I took it back to Sears, and they confirmed that the battery was bad. Just 5 months after the free replacement period, what do you think they allowed me for the bad battery? I expected to get, at least $100. WRONG !!! They allowed me $42.00 for it!

So-o-o-o, if you have any doubts about your Optima battery, make sure you take it back during the free replacement period. BTW, Sears, at least the one I shop at, doesn't carry Optima anymore.

The Optima battery is starting to get to a "full charge" with my "battery tender". It took way too long. This is my second Optima battery since the first one developed a cracked case and it was leaking all over the SSR battery box. I had to fight with Optima to get them to send a replacement battery (the one that just went dead). They told me that they would replace it (the cracked one) but it was the last one I could get under warranty. I could not believe what they were saying to me.

I replaced the ignition switch this morning. I'm going to have to wait and see if the problem occurs again with the OEM battery back in the SSR with the new ignition switch. If it does, then I know it wasn't the Optima battery.

kgoodwin · 10-30-2007, 08:47 AM

Even though an electrical engineer and one prone to fix everything that ISN'T broken, my experience would tell you to REPLACE the battery. I had the same situation on a 2000 Vet, that did this twice but came back to life as if nothing had happened twenty - sixty minutes later. One possible guess is that a cell or two in the battery dies (shorts out?) from material settling in the bottom of the battery case. I looked and looked for an explaination even carrying a VOM in the car that still told me nothing when it occurred the second time. Once I got it going again, drove it to the dealer thinking I had a truly baffling problem but the dealer just replaced the battery - no problems since. Let me give you another bit of hard learned experience - I replace the battery every three years whether it needs it or not. The cost of a new battery is worht more more than stranding the wife somewhere on the far side of town. I also have never gotten much more out of any battery than 3 years before it started leaking thru the positive terminal another problem you want to avoid like the plague.

SMJT · 10-30-2007, 01:48 PM

I had a similar problem six months ago. After confirming the battery and starter were good, I took it to the dealer and they traced the battery drain back to a bent light switch trigger in the glove compartment. Someone on the forum suggested it should have timed out and therefore should not have been the problem. All I know is that I have not had a problem since the repair.