Hey everyone my truck is stuck at a parking lot . I turned my truck on it starts and sounds fine but low oil pressure light is on and dic reads low oils pressure stop engine. I checked the dipstick it reads full. Do y'all think it's the oil pump that went bad or just the sensor went bad. Oil needle sitting on zero need help ASAP trucks sittin in not to good of a area and I'm looking for a car trailer right now to get it home. Suggestions please
Hong that concerns me is that the the reason is not making any noise is because it has oil in the motor from when I drove it earlier I drove it about 10 miles earlier today and it was fine when I parked it the needle day on 20 when I came back to my truck 3 hours later it had the light on and said stop engine
My SSR: Striping by Fairfield, Confidence by Mike in AZ
My oil gauge is pegged on HI. Oil is flowing in the engine while it's running, and QUIET, as if all is normal. The needle of the gauge works just fine at start-up. I think I just need an oil sending unit. Oil lite in the dash is ON.
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My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
Pull your dipstick, clean it, and get a good visual mark with the engine off. Start the engine, let it run for 30 seconds and shut it off. QUICKLY check the oil level again. If the pump is functioning, the level should be down some. If the level has dropped, it might just be the sensor that failed, and I tend to believe that is the case.
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First all thanks for all the responses. Mr ken if it is the oil pump the one I had was modified by porting both ends , instead of getting this one like that can I get a slp performance oil pump also I got a double row timing chain done with cam at 60k miles it now has 80 do I have to get another timing chain done
Was it cuz you chanced it by still driving it or just cuz it scared the motor that bad?
Drove it. Changed sensor, still the same. R&R oil pump, still the same but slightly better. 100% engine diassembly revealed substantial damage. Oil pump disassembly revealed the cause though I doubt you would have the same defect I found.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twooldfarmers
how desperate are you to get it out of there.
If you really do have no oil pressure your valve train is going to be rattling like a handful of dimes on a tin pie plate
Disagree. Been there with next to no pressure and valve train was still quiet. Not expected but it was real nonetheless.
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
X, start out with changing the sensor or plumbing in a temporary mechanical gauge and find out what's really happening. I'm going to plumb a permanent mech. gauge in and mount it in the engine bay somewhere, just to alleviate these kind of doubts popping up.
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Last edited by Topspin; 01-29-2012 at 11:25 AM.
Reason: sp.
I think we are 13/16 X 16 this might save pulling the intake or super charger off to get to back sender to tee off. Or drill and tap oil gallery above filter. http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-f...16-thread.aspx
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Some stuff added
Got the truck to mechanic shop truck doesn't wanna start up which guy said it good that gm has the computer where the truck senses no pressure that it won't start . He chuckled and said hopefully its the sender or sensor
Got the truck to mechanic shop truck doesn't wanna start up which guy said it good that gm has the computer where the truck senses no pressure that it won't start . He chuckled and said hopefully its the sender or sensor
That would be great keep us posted.
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Ok so I get news on my truck today guy says my motor is shot it has a knocking noise on startup . He said he can change the oil pump out for 750$ and if no metal in the pan he said he thinks it sounds like the back bearings. Which is another 1300$ I honestly don't know what to do. Do I spend the 2000 grand and hope that's it?
Ok so I get news on my truck today guy says my motor is shot it has a knocking noise on startup . He said he can change the oil pump out for 750$ and if no metal in the pan he said he thinks it sounds like the back bearings. Which is another 1300$ I honestly don't know what to do. Do I spend the 2000 grand and hope that's it?
This is no fun. Topspin is a good Engine Man. If you can install a Mechanical Pressure Gage. Purchase an 80 PSI. The Mechanical gages read more accurately at 50% of Span. 40 PSI.
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
In view of the fact that you are running yours hard, you might consider improving your oil system while it's apart. Some of the Trailblazer SS guys are having similar issues using the same oil pan as the SSR. Here's a couple of pictures of what what I've cobbled up, over the past few years. I first modified the factory pan by cutting out the tube and filter area, then mounting a large capacity remote oil filter. My second, and current attempt, is a modified C6 Vette pan. Both were done to get the oil capacity out to over 8 quarts, without running an elevated oil level in the pan. These engines move a lot of oil, and just plain need more capacity. The current ZO6 and ZR1 Vettes are out to 10.5 quarts in a remote tank, that offers great control.
To answer to your question, the dipstick goes directly into the stock pan, but uses a block passage for the C6 pan.
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Last edited by Topspin; 02-03-2012 at 05:07 PM.
Reason: add.
In view of the fact that you are running yours hard, you might consider improving your oil system while it's apart. Some of the Trailblazer SS guys are having similar issues using the same oil pan as the SSR. Here's a couple of pictures of what what I've cobbled up, over the past few years. I first modified the factory pan by cutting out the tube and filter area, then mounting a large capacity remote oil filter. My second, and current attempt, is a modified C6 Vette pan. Both were done to get the oil capacity out to over 8 quarts, without running an elevated oil level in the pan. These engines move a lot of oil, and just plain need more capacity. The current ZO6 and ZR1 Vettes are out to 10.5 quarts in a remote tank, that offers great control.
To answer to your question, the dipstick goes directly into the stock pan, but uses a block passage for the C6 pan.
Good Idea. My SSR has 76 K on it. It still doesn't use any Oil or drip any Oil.
Honestly in thinking the oil pump went out and that's why when you start it it's making the tapping noise I'm hoping that when the oil pump gets replaced that the noise goes away
My SSR: Lonnie lites,confidence by simple Engineering
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremeon20z
Ok so I get news on my truck today guy says my motor is shot it has a knocking noise on startup . He said he can change the oil pump out for 750$ and if no metal in the pan he said he thinks it sounds like the back bearings. Which is another 1300$ I honestly don't know what to do. Do I spend the 2000 grand and hope that's it?
Don't get it 750 for oil pump while he is there think he could throw in some bearings huh
Ok so it's 5:30 on a Saturday morning I can't sleep
This is getting the better of me! I just realized why it's making so much noise bc the motor has no oil in it . He told me when I went there he says the dipstick goes right into the motor look its full I forgot that when I added my headers we unbolted the dipstick off the block to get those massive headers on the passenger side. Holy sh t I'm thinking that hopefully he didn't screw it up to bad and that's all that's wrong I'm installing a melling 10296 how fast should that oil from that pan reach the top of that motor ? The guy that's doing this has multiple street and strip cars and has a big mechanic shop he's not just a 1 man show he knows better than to do this. Also he said the computer said 7.5 hrs for labor the computer is saying 13 hours of labor for the bearings but to me if u taking the 7.5 away from the 13 then that's only 5.5 more since its in the same path your needing to go. Chevy quoted me 8 for oil pump change.
My SSR: 05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
It's not like the old days. The oil pump is crank driven and is mounted behind the timing chain. It is accessed by removing the water pump and then removing the balancer and timing cover. Removing the oil pan to access the bearings is significant work, in another area, that involves removing the crossmember and dropping one side of the rack.
X, I can make no sense of your situation - one minute you say it's full of oil and the next you say it's out of oil??!! I see no real diagnosis taking place, just a bunch of guessing. One more time, poor oil pan design can lead to oil pump and bearing problems, if you're an aggressive driver! The trailblazer crowd, using the same pan, are overfilling an additional quart and that seems to help, but personally I don't like that solution.
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Last edited by Topspin; 02-04-2012 at 03:16 PM.
Reason: sp.
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