chime rang and went into limp mode while driving. Cool day temp wise. I had been idleing for a while just previous, but got no warning untill I was moving. Smelled pretty hot too, under the hood. Let her cool awhile, then added about three quarts of water. Reran and everythin seemed ok temp wise, fan came on at 230 degrees while idling and dropped down to 210 driving. BUT OIL service light came on. Just an hour before I was at 90%. With the oil service light on I checked the display and it said 0% oil life remaining! Is it possible that after a certain engine temperature, that it is programmed to protect against overheated and damaged oil and indicate a change is neccesary?
Last edited by FlashBack : 04-07-2006 at 10:49 PM.
Reason: spelling fix
Yes, it is. The equation used to determine oil life by the computer factors in a variety of things; driving habits, mileage, engine temp, just to name a few.
I did reset the oil life to 100%, but the the oil warning still shows on the dash. I disconnected the positive battery terminal for a few minutes , but the warnining is still on indicating a hard code, I will need to bring it to the dealer I guess to reset and read the code. I doubt that synthetic oil could be damaged by just a few minutes of overheating though.
[quote=SA13355]Shouldn't the fan come on at 210* rather than 230*?
And where did the three qts. of fluid go that you replaced?
These are issues in my book.
Good luck.
Driving a Hot Rod
Good point...Hate to say this but it could be a blown head gasket...Would explain that the liquid when into the oil and hense the oil light issue..just a wild guess that is hopefully all wrong!!!!
I would think the oil life going to zero would be a program default when a sensor has detected the oil has been maybe over heated and damaged. The question is why was your coolant short Another question is where did the 3 quarts of coolant go? You need to get it into the shop ASAP so they can inspect the oil and coolant and also the codes that were reported. I would call the Dealer and have it Flat Bedded there I wouldn't drive it. IMO
Shouldn't the fan come on at 210* rather than 230*?
And where did the three qts. of fluid go that you replaced?
These are issues in my book.
Good luck.
Driving a Hot Rod
Ski p
Good question. I just remembered that when I took off the expansion tank cover that it wasnt exactly loose, but wasnt as tight as it should be, so I am hoping that that is the answer as to where the coolant went. There is no visable evidence of water on the dipstick, and no unusal water or steam in the exhaust.
I will check the codes anyway to try to get some idea as to why the oil service zeroed out, but it makes sense that oil temperature is one of the variables in the computatuions. I really doubt that synthetic oil however, could be damaged by a few minutes of high temp. It smells ok also. There is kind of a faint burnt smell comming from under the hood though that I cant identify.
Anyways, all warning lights are now off, and is running perfect. I will watch the water level closley, thats for sure. Thanks for everyones input.
My SSR: '06 PB #21661 Born 8/29/05, GHL "Old School" True Duals, ADDCO bars, Eibach rear, Joe's Tune
Quote:
Originally Posted by SA13355
Shouldn't the fan come on at 210* rather than 230*?
And where did the three qts. of fluid go that you replaced?
These are issues in my book.
Good luck.
Driving a Hot Rod
Ski p
Skip,
The OEM fan is turned onto "low" speed at 226 and "high" speed at 235 by the computer. Coolant will boil at ~260 when at sea level and a 15 PSI cap is installed. Lower boiling point as you increase in altitude.....
06csSSR,
Jump started a 2005 this morning, and while driving it, temp pegged, and service oil light came on. Per TSB, when you jump start, it can blow the fuse, (Ithink its a 16amp), that controls the cooling fan, (ie; increased temp), and causes the service oil light to come on. Check the fuses.
Mike
Semper Fi
My SSR: '06 PB #21661 Born 8/29/05, GHL "Old School" True Duals, ADDCO bars, Eibach rear, Joe's Tune
The cooling fan fuse is a 60 amp yellow square unit just inside the cover. It is in between the 12vdc bus and the cooling fan mounting stud on the forward inboard corner of the fuse box. Jump starting from the fuse box is forbidden. It will surely blow something up.
The correct location for jump starting is the large red box on the passenger fender well. Always use this spot for jump starting.
According to what I read, your oil moniter is working as advertized..
I keep thinking the WHOLE problem with these "only stopped" overheatings that it it completely and totally due to the "optional engine cover. My engine holds heat wayyyyy longer then bigger engines put away hotter..
That huge black "cup" over laps front and rear, exceeds engine width, far as I know we all have them and I suspect, that the source of all these posts.
Your air can not circulate up from underniety sitting still when you got a hot air catcher up there preventing circulation AND holding it right there...
If I knew others had taken their fancy pants engine cover off, I'd sure put mine in storage for sale day.. My FEAR, it's not there to look pretty OR keep the engine clean, but to prevent the extreme heat from bubbling the hood paint, "when you're sitting still".. Any body say Amen to that thought ?
Chicago: The pllastic cover is NOT there to prevent hood paint overheating. If it was, all of us with superchargers would have had big problems long ago, as that cover gets ditched when you install the supercharger.
I had my SSR used for the development of the MagnaCharger last year and have been running the Modified settings since. The fan on my SSR hardly ever runs and the temp stays just to the left of the 210 mark on the gauge. The stock temp settings are so high that everything underhood becomes heat soaked before the fan comes on. Once the fan does come on at the stock settings the engine is just too hot for the stock fan. I will also add the the modified fan temps below were approved by the California Air Resource Board for emission compliance.
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