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Fyi>>chevrolet emblem support alert

12K views 59 replies 33 participants last post by  ZZR 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello Fanatics: I wanted to share with you a caution to the wind if you will. If you are installing a hood emblem support for the Chevrolet emblem that has a tendency to break when lifting the hood to open etc. First off, I want to say,IMO,this support is GREAT! I did a pre-fit after I drilled out the holes that were slightly marked with a 3/16 drill bit then I used a round file to increase the diameter a bit. When I tried to fit the support peice it wouldn't allow the three bolts to come thru,the problem was the holes needed to be longated so the top of the holes were almost exactly a 1/4 of an inch from the top edge of the support piece.The bottom lip of the support bracket must slip on top of or over the flat bottom of the chevrolet emblem.After filing the holes and being ever so gentle to slide the new piece into the chevrolet emblem with three bolts,making sure to guide them into the chevrolet emblem evenly so there isn't any stress on the damm piece of crap plastic bracketts that house the three bolts.I broke the far left bolt bracket during prefit trying to
force the plastic just a tiny bit>>fanatics don't force anything,it's $hit plastic and it don't give like metal with force,instead it breaks.I superglued
the bolt and bracket and it seems to be holding well enough to gently tighten the flat washer nut onto the bolt,hopefully the support piece will take all the stress of lifting the hood once it is all bolted in with the existing three washer nuts.Again,the support brace is excellant,I just got to much in a hurry and didn't think out what was needed inorder for the new brace to fit.I ended up with a 1/4 inch hole that is fine because the washer nuts more than cover the hole.Bottom line is a predrilled longated hole would insure install without any issues because the piece fits very nice.If the piece doesn't fall into place like a precision gun part without any force,re-examine your situation and above all do not try the least bit of force to make this cheap plastic chevrolet piece(bolt brackets) pony up to the new and wonderful support brace! Thats all,FYI,hope it helps someone!:) PS: I wanted the black paint to dry good before putting the support brace on! Five minutes it went together like a precision part,it looks like it was designed by the factory for it's intended function! Good job George!Thanks! :thumbs
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Yes indeed!!! Great piece of work!!



I ordered my support brace from George and got in in two days,from Nevada.

I think my chevrolet emblem was getting ready to break(tabs on the back) that house the three bolt fasteners with washer nuts etc. I guess simply stated,if one uses a 1/4 inch drill bit on the new brace it should probably fit

OK! Thanks again George for creating this niffty piece! FYI: In my case I had it smoothed and painted,plus the chevrolet pacific blue raised decal,if I had to replace the chevy emblem it would have cost me close to $150.00,so $65.00 for the brace was good insurance,IMO!:)

PS: Again,NO FORCE>NUDGING OF ANY KIND>with proper hole size should slide in place without any trouble!!

This piece is a must if you plan on keeping your "R" IMO!
 
#3 ·
Sounds like it. Illustrates how much the guard is needed. Various people have acted like I was being overly dramatic when they reach for my hood, but my emblem isn't broken (yet) and I'm sure that's the reason why.
 
#6 ·
:amen:

I got my guard a few weeks ago, and was waiting to install it until after i had it painted. Well, when i was doing the install of the hood supports from Mike in AZ (also a super quality project), i dropped the hood! Since i had already broken the emblem the first hour i owned my SSR, it shot across my driveway:banghead

I then decided that i'd put the unpainted guard on right then and there. I could see where the fiberglass was a little indented and figured that's where i needed to drill, so i drilled out the holes with a small drill bit and then went up in size until the bolts fit through, i forget the exact size, but i go figure it out when i have the piece painted.

after the glue dried (again) i put the guard on and was VERY careful to not put any real force on the emblem. This would have been much much easier if I had any friends to help me!

I plan on getting it painted soon, but i brought it to a car show that night and no one really noticed that it was even there, except for me when i felt it as i opened the hood!

I would buy one again in a heartbeat, and i'm glad to say it was the FIRST thing i bought for my SSR. I suggest that EVERY one who reads this clicks SEND PM and address it to ZZR right now!

-Jim
 
#8 ·
I have to agree with you, Mr. T - and i would love to have a solid mount emblem made of real metal.

However, with the somewhat complex curve and real poor design placement of the mounting points it would, without question, be much more expensive than the ZZR protection part. Also, the ZZR part covers up the hole that is there and really gives a clean look to the underside of the hood. If there was to be a new metal emblem it would need to sandwich the hood mounts to prevent stress and also give the same clean look.

I suppose you could just go with a new hood that doesn't have the emblem at all - i've seen those around for hundreds of dollars plus the paint job. (i'd go with BLACKIES hood if i had the means). They also look real nice, but lose the stock look.

-Jim
 
#18 ·
HALSSR: I just installed the guard with your instructions........Thanks for the tips. Although, it maybe assumed by many I fitted and drilled out while the nut/washers were on. Once I had the holes aligned and wide enough as HALSSR recommends I then removed the nut/washers and installed the brace.

Thanks again for your write-up and a big thanks to George for a wonderful product!

:silver:
 
#19 ·
For those who have not broken the hood emblem yet - an alternate pro-active fix.
I removed the emblem, used a small Dremel grinder bit to rough up the interior of the 3 emblem supports, put masking tape on one side of each support bracket, put the emblem in a vertical position and filled the supports with J.B weld. A very simple and inexpensive fix.
 
#31 ·
I've had to fix mine twice now. Even with the guard. Luckily never broke on the road just while servicing it.

Hubby has a machine show with 5-axis CNC machines. He says he can make the emblem out of solid billet aluminum. And he says that it can be chromed or cera coated. He says he will just reverse engineer the emblem, so it will be an exact match.

Would any of you be interested in this? I don't know what it would cost, but I could get him to run the numbers and get a rough idea.
 
#33 ·
If he can reverse engineer a match, I'd be interested. Mine is chrome, hasn't broken yet, but playing Russian roulette with it. For now, I may remove it and do the epoxy trick to strengthen it.

Chrome is easy. Matching the satin finish will be a challenge. One company tried that several years ago with front grille pieces, an had a difficult time with it.
 
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#40 ·
Aluminum Emblem

Okay, My hubby surprised me . . . After my hood emblem broke (again), he decided to go ahead and start this project.

He owns an aerospace precision machine shop. He's going to make the emblem out of 7075 aircraft grade aluminum. He told me that the model is done, the camming is done, and that the 5-axis machining is to start next week.

He has improved the design by making it thicker in places and using solid post studs.

His projected cost is $300. And he says that is for the aluminum uncoated, so that YOU can finish it however you want . . . Satin, chrome, or the color of your SSR.

He's going to run 10 this first time.
 
#42 ·
Okay, My hubby surprised me . . . After my hood emblem broke (again), he decided to go ahead and start this project.

He owns an aerospace precision machine shop. He's going to make the emblem out of 7075 aircraft grade aluminum. He told me that the model is done, the camming is done, and that the 5-axis machining is to start next week.

He has improved the design by making it thicker in places and using solid post studs.

His projected cost is $300. And he says that is for the aluminum uncoated, so that YOU can finish it however you want . . . Satin, chrome, or the color of your SSR.

He's going to run 10 this first time.
Post pics please when you get a chance....
 
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