My SSR: 2004 Yellow my kids nicknamed "Sponge Bob" Vin#8477
Go Ahead.....Ban me!
Sorry....
I got caught up.....
The weather has been great....
The sun was on my dash....
I was looking at all the people looking at me...
I just didn’t notice until it was too late.....
I was driving home the other day and saw a horrifying sight.....The Oil light with the wrench next to it was on!!! How could I have forgotten to change my oil at 6000 miles!!! How long was this on before I noticed it??!! I had the oil changed yesterday at 7100 miles....(Thank you Dale at Tire Pros) so now Oil is well and I can relax again.
My real question is this.....The Oil “life” was at 0% and the light went on. And, for the moment, did put me into a panic, but got me thinking.
What is the real oil life span in terms of mileage? I know we all change it a 3000 mile intervals, but where is the real danger zone.
What does 0% oil life mean anyway and how is it calculated?
My SSR: '04 Purple (Penelope)#3438 1st '04 Production UV and '06 blue over silver auto, #22851 #5 0f 32
Joe...its not a life &/or death situation. Its an indicator you better get your a$$ in gear and pay attention to your baby
As I understand it the indicator % is determined by a combination of miles and engine temperature over that time period. Again i believe algorithms in the PCM would make this function as such. If I'm all wet then maybe I need my oil changed.
Sorry....
I got caught up.....
The weather has been great....
The sun was on my dash....
I was looking at all the people looking at me...
I just didn’t notice until it was too late.....
I was driving home the other day and saw a horrifying sight.....The Oil light with the wrench next to it was on!!! How could I have forgotten to change my oil at 6000 miles!!! How long was this on before I noticed it??!! I had the oil changed yesterday at 7100 miles....(Thank you Dale at Tire Pros) so now Oil is well and I can relax again.
My real question is this.....The Oil “life” was at 0% and the light went on. And, for the moment, did put me into a panic, but got me thinking.
What is the real oil life span in terms of mileage? I know we all change it a 3000 mile intervals, but where is the real danger zone.
What does 0% oil life mean anyway and how is it calculated?
WHAT do you mean you drove our SSR without an oil change until the oil indicator came on!!!! Hey buddy - you don't let me get away with that. Don't make me bring up the "D" word . . .
XO
Lori
aka Mrs StepPrintng
I think P/P is on the right track ... it's some sort of complex, secret calculation involving (pick as many as you like from the following) mileage, engine temps, elapsed time, average speed, maximum speed, number of full moons, etc., since the last oil change.
I bought my 'R with 500-some miles on it, and thought about changing the oil & filter at 1,000 then 1,500 then 2,500 miles, but never got around to it. Finally did the deed at ~ 6,000 and change. The DIC said 53% left.
Going forward, I'll change the oil & filter at my first opportunity following 25% or one year, whichever comes first.
per mobile - mobile 1 (the only thing you should be using) is good for 10,000 miles - I never go past 4,000 but at least you don't have to panic if you forget
My SSR: 2004 Yellow my kids nicknamed "Sponge Bob" Vin#8477
According to the Manual
Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature. and not on mileage......
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that and oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on.
Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel
WOW...that's like 600+miles with the light on....I don't think so!
It goes on to say that under the best conditions the light may not come on for over a year, but you should change your oil yearly.
It also says in a round about way to change your oil every 3000 miles
My SSR: SSR 04 – PEDIGREE SSR Chrome Wheels w/ 1st Aux. Gauge Package released for Production. #9684
Rule of thumb is change your oil regularly = cheap insurance
Quote:
Originally Posted by StepPrinting
... It goes on to say that under the best conditions the light may not come on for over a year, but you should change your oil yearly.
... It also says in a round about way to change your oil every 3000 miles[/i]
The old rule of thumb is ... " it never hurts to change your oil at 3,000 miles." I have heard that if you are running regular/ standard oil it is recommended that you change your oil at least twice a year regardless of your mileage.
However if you are using Mobil 1 or any other synthetic oil you can go for a year without changing your oil if you stay within their mileage/ driving specifications.
My SSR: Black - 2003 VIN# 3053 - Custom Paint by John Hardin
I just got mine changed today - went 6300 miles since last one - my longest stretch yet - but using Mobil 1 and the Mac Haik Chevy oil change guy said 6000 is probably okay.
My SSR: 2005 LS2 slingshot/chrome #16599 born on 10/18/04
Dont Be Misguided!!
The 3000 mile oil change is a joke and a complete waste!
OK here we go again.....those of you who are changing oil every 3000 miles, please read this post and reconsider your 3000 mile change. I too was blind to this concept, but now I'm smart.
**Be sure to click on the Mobile 1 test page in this document- Its a big read, but VERY good info.
Those of us educated persons who change our oil at service life end (approx 6000-7000 miles) keep up the good work! We know the 3000 mile oil change is as big a conspriacy (mis-spell?) as the Johnson administration and changing oil, even conventional oil, at or before 3000 miles can acctually cause adverse effects!!! (with the exception of break-in oil --thats a different topic)
In fact I feel this is such an important topic, Im going to start a new thread on this.
Well I have less than 6000 miles and have changed oil 3 times. I just did it last week because it’s going to sit for the next 3 months. Used oil has broken down some and has an acid affect on the bearings and such. I changed it when I first bought her as she sat on the lot for a year going through the heat and cold. I was worried it had condensation in the oil. As far as your Dic it’s just something for you to play with … how can it tell the diff. between reg. oil and Mobil 1? Early oil changes is just money, long late changes can be more expensive. Do what feels good to you.
__________________ .....I'm getting wired
Last edited by REBEL : 01-01-2006 at 04:32 PM.
Reason: 5000 to 6000 miles 5700 dead on to day jan1
I don't change it until the light comes on. I have 20k miles and the light has only came on twice. New engines run a lot cleaner than the older ones. The light isn't there for nothing, just change it when it says to.
My SSR: SSR 04 – PEDIGREE SSR Chrome Wheels w/ 1st Aux. Gauge Package released for Production. #9684
Interesting articles
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkc7ac
OK here we go again.....those of you who are changing oil every 3000 miles, please read this post and reconsider your 3000 mile change. I too was blind to this concept, but now I'm smart.
Interesting article... here is a quickie read for those that don't have time to read the full article right now.
Past Results
To date we have completed our tests of Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Mobil 1 held on for 18,000 miles, and didn't need its first oil filter until 12,000 miles. For all the details, visit our Mobil 1 Test Results page.
Amsoil was time-limited to 14,000 miles (its year ran out), but it made it the whole way without a replacement filter. It's not a total success story, though, as it had some trouble with its viscosity. To read all about it, visit our Amsoil Test Results page.
I view oil changes as cheap insurance and do them every 2000 miles or three months (and I use Mobile synth.) after all you want to care for your baby as it is a very limited production.....
The old rule of thumb is ... " it never hurts to change your oil at 3,000 miles."
Cept in the wallet.
I did some tracking and, with my driving habits, it looks like the percent life counter would go to zero at around 10,000 miles.
Thirty years ago most all autos had a recommend oil change increment of 7500miles, at the time I had a summer job working in an old school gas station, the owner had me recommending that all oil changes be scoped for 5000 miles for no other reason than that more frequent oil changes would put more money in his pocket. It was a business tactic nothing more.
Now, I'm not so comfortable with 10,000 mile oil changes, but I also believe that the 3000 mile change interval is well past the point of diminishing returns as far as engine life goes.
My SSR: 2005 LS2 slingshot/chrome #16599 born on 10/18/04
Quote:
Originally Posted by beer100
Cept in the wallet.
I did some tracking and, with my driving habits, it looks like the percent life counter would go to zero at around 10,000 miles.
-It varies greatly in part to driving habits and tempratures. I can maybe see the oil life % taking you as far as 8,500 tops and 5,000 on the bottom end. But 10,000 seems high. I get around 6200-7200 in a 04' Yukon and it gets hot in Arizona in the summer.
Thirty years ago most all autos had a recommend oil change increment of 7500miles, at the time I had a summer job working in an old school gas station, the owner had me recommending that all oil changes be scoped for 5000 miles for no other reason than that more frequent oil changes would put more money in his pocket. It was a business tactic nothing more.
-Really? I never ever heard of 7500 miles for oil in the day. Tire roatation maybe, but oil? Are you sure? I do remember the 2000 mile oil change and people freaking out when it was said we could go 3000 miles in the 1990's. And your right on the oil changing recommdations....the only reason is to get a person back more frequent. Again, if you read the article (and Im still laughing at those who change their oil every 100 miles) you will find that oil viscosity hits its peak after several thousand miles. Most engine wear occurs when new virgin oil is intruduced into the engine! Guys -these engines are built with computer precision and space age tolorances...the age of blow by seats and rings of unspent exhaust and gas is a thing of the past. Is there still some contaminates? Yes. Just not as much AND we are using synt. oil too. Much better.
Now, I'm not so comfortable with 10,000 mile oil changes, but I also believe that the 3000 mile change interval is well past the point of diminishing returns as far as engine life goes.
-You obviously have not read the excelent link I posted. If you are changing your oil prior too the oil service % light goes off your not only wasting money, but very possibly doing more harm to your engine than good. I know -I too believed like millions upon millions that the "2000" or now "3000" mile oil change was necessary. They dont do that in Europe. America is a very wastful society. I am more comfortable in a 10,000 oil change than a 3000 mile one (considering all things equal keep in mind -Alaska freezing temps, heavy towing in desert heat, dusty construction working trucks, drag racing, etc.)
Keeping a watchful eye on the oil level is the most important thing. All engines burn a small amount.
This kind of reminds me of when I grow up in Illinois. We lived on a lake where you kept your boat in a "boat house". It was a dock with three sides that you pulled into with a cover or roof. It had an electric hoist that attached to the boat and supported by "belly straps" so it could be pulled out of the water (imagine now the boat is suspended above the water about 5 feet above water under the roof). Anyway, every winter we were told to drain the lower unit of the outboard motor because it would freeze and crack. Well fast foward to 1990 to a trip to Alaska on the Chena River. Boats with outboard motors stuck, frozen into the ice until the thaw WITH the outborads' lower unit in the ice!! -Im asked 'what the hell is the deal, the motors in the water! What about the lower unit?!" The locals laughed and said "the boats frozen too -it isnt going anywhere!" -True I said, but arnt' you concerned about craking the lower unit? The response was no, as long as the seals were good and had the proper amount of oil, it would be fine. Engines would only crack if cleaned of all its oil and grease to protect it and the moist air would accumulate on the engine would it then crack.
My SSR: Originally Smokin Asphalt 03 #00099 now kustom graphics, tu-tone Kandy green/white
freezing and cracking?
Not quite true.
Try this little experiment some time.
Take a gallon jug and fill it with water cap it and let it stand out side to freeze (or put in a freezer if in warmer climate). The result will be a split bottle or in the case of an engine block, cracked. Why? Water expands when frozen and thus splits at a weakest point.
Now take another jug and fill it the same way and cap it, but this time put it in a pan of water (no lid) and set it outside or in freezer to freeze. The result this time will not be a slpit or cracked bottle due to the equalized pressure from both sides of the frozen bottle. The seams of the bottle are encased in a solid block and has nowhere to go and therefore can not slpit open like the first experiment.
Just something to think about.
__________________
Go fast till you see GOD, THEN HIT THE BRAKES!!!!
How could I have forgotten to change my oil at 6000 miles!!! 
How long was this on before I noticed it??!! I had the oil changed yesterday at 7100 miles....(Thank you Dale at Tire Pros) so now Oil is well and I can relax again. 
hair every 4000 miles.. I think you are ok.
Home of the free 
Rule of thumb is change your oil regularly = cheap insurance
.....I'm getting wired
Cept in the wallet.
