This weekend was the first time I run the R at night. I have no low beam headlights. The high beams work and the fog lights work. I read that where you pull and release the emergency brake. That the daytime running lights go off. I turned the lights on , Which only the high beams work and pulled the emergency brake and the high beam lights go off. I have checked all the fuses and all of them are good. Why the emergency brake turns the high beams off and why I do not have low beam lights Is a confusing. Any help?
My SSR: Striping by Fairfield, Confidence by Mike in AZ
Is your, multi-function Smart Switch, aka turn signal arm pulled towards the driver or pushed towards the dash? It may be pushed foreward, selecting hi beam only.
Behind the pass seat, check fuse #13. My '04 is marked for 15A DRL.
__________________ Red Cat's Fan Club
No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.
Last edited by yellow bear; 10-17-2011 at 04:37 PM.
All the fuses are ok, And the low beam headlight bulbs are ok. I put the led flasher lm487 and the V-LED red brake light tail light bulbs In. When I was driving down the road with the cruise control on and when I turned the lights on, The cruise control quit working. I then put LED load equalizers at each taillight. After that the cruise control worked perfectly. I do not know If the elcctronic LED LM487 flasher module has anything to do with the headlight problem, Like the cruise control problem I had.
I still have no daytime running lights. I took the led module out and put the original module back In along with the regular taillight bulbs. I do have resistors wired Into the taillights for when I had the led lights In. Just trying to eliminate different things to get the lights to come on. The highbeam lights work ok and also all the fuses look good. One other thing, When I turn the light switch to auto and push the turn signal handle toward the dash, The highbeam lights come on. Not sure If that should happen?.
Does anyone have any Ideas or have had this kind of headlight problem. I think the next stop will be at the Chevy dealership.
I still have no daytime running lights. I took the led module out and put the original module back In along with the regular taillight bulbs. I do have resistors wired Into the taillights for when I had the led lights In. Just trying to eliminate different things to get the lights to come on. The highbeam lights work ok and also all the fuses look good. One other thing, When I turn the light switch to auto and push the turn signal handle toward the dash, The highbeam lights come on. Not sure If that should happen?.
Does anyone have any Ideas or have had this kind of headlight problem. I think the next stop will be at the Chevy dealership.
Could be your sensor on the dash. I have seen them quite working. The circuit runs thru the dash sensor.
Hear Is the latest thing to happen.With all the problems with trying to get the daytime running lights to work and having the high beam lights coming on In the auto mode. I went out and turned the key to start the R and nothing happened. All the Instrument lights, Radio, windows and all the electrical stuff works except, For putting the top down and starting thr R. I now am thinking that the Ignition switch has gone completely bad, And probably why I have the light problems. Any comments on my ongoing problem? Thanks
Today we just replaced the Ignition switch and still nothing when I turn the key to start. All the electrical things work, Except for starting the R and putting the top down. I do not know If there Is a module or something that the two are connected to. Also on the dash when you put the transmission Into any of the gears nothing lights up to show which one you are In. It just seems that these are all tied together somehow???????? any Ideas
If the general vehicle is starting to "act up", then you may have a problem in one of the common power distribution points in the SSR (engine compartment fuse panel, center console fuse panel, power cabling).
There have been a couple of SSRs with bad fuse panels in the engine compartment (power bus bar was not making good contact if I remember correctly).
You may also have corrosion on the electrical contacts for the fuses/relays in the fuse panels. You can remove the relays in the fuse panel in the engine compartment and see if the contacts have any corrosion and if so clean them as a possible solution to your problem(s). I've also observed the relays in the fuse panel tend to "walk out" a bit from their fully inserted position, so check to make sure all of the fuses and relays are fully inserted into their fuse panel slots/positions.
You may want to check the battery cables (positive and negative) starting at the battery and working forward to see if anything is loose or corroded. Check the positive battery cable in the "jump start box" in the engine compartment to make sure nothing's loose there either.
__________________
04 Chevy SSR | 12 Dodge Charger SRT8 | 04 Ford Thunderbird PCR #428 | 06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid
If the general vehicle is starting to "act up", then you may have a problem in one of the common power distribution points in the SSR (engine compartment fuse panel, center console fuse panel, power cabling).
There have been a couple of SSRs with bad fuse panels in the engine compartment (power bus bar was not making good contact if I remember correctly).
You may also have corrosion on the electrical contacts for the fuses/relays in the fuse panels. You can remove the relays in the fuse panel in the engine compartment and see if the contacts have any corrosion and if so clean them as a possible solution to your problem(s). I've also observed the relays in the fuse panel tend to "walk out" a bit from their fully inserted position, so check to make sure all of the fuses and relays are fully inserted into their fuse panel slots/positions.
You may want to check the battery cables (positive and negative) starting at the battery and working forward to see if anything is loose or corroded. Check the positive battery cable in the "jump start box" in the engine compartment to make sure nothing's loose there either.
There was Corrosion found on the Ground Cable that goes from the Engine to the Firewall and this caused some extreme Electrical failures.
Today we just replaced the Ignition switch and still nothing when I turn the key to start. All the electrical things work, Except for starting the R and putting the top down. I do not know If there Is a module or something that the two are connected to. Also on the dash when you put the transmission Into any of the gears nothing lights up to show which one you are In. It just seems that these are all tied together somehow???????? any Ideas
I hope you don't have a BCM failure. But I remember there being a broken Wire in the Driver side Conduit Loom that flows through the Door Pillar into the Door. This broken Wire caused many thing to fail.
These new Light Switches are a pain to troubleshoot. From the Photocell on the Dash to the Light Switch are Relays that are excited to turn on and off lighting functions.
I have full power from the battery to the positive cable to the red box In the engine compartment. We have checked all the fuses and moved the modules to make sure they are all the way down. All the electrical works except for starting the engine and putting the top down. It just seems like the two are tied together for getting power to operate. As I was saying, I run the R the night before last. And yesterday morning I was going to start the engine to put the top down to get Into the fuse box where the two daytime running light modules are. Something Is stopping the engine and top to have power. In the engine compartment fuse panel, There Is a number 47 module that Is all black. It Is different In color from all the rest. Not sure If whoever owned the R before changed It. Can someone send me the numbers printed on theirs so I can compare to mine. Thanks
I have full power from the battery to the positive cable to the red box In the engine compartment. We have checked all the fuses and moved the modules to make sure they are all the way down. All the electrical works except for starting the engine and putting the top down. It just seems like the two are tied together for getting power to operate. As I was saying, I run the R the night before last. And yesterday morning I was going to start the engine to put the top down to get Into the fuse box where the two daytime running light modules are. Something Is stopping the engine and top to have power. In the engine compartment fuse panel, There Is a number 47 module that Is all black. It Is different In color from all the rest. Not sure If whoever owned the R before changed It. Can someone send me the numbers printed on theirs so I can compare to mine. Thanks
Did you check the Power in and out at the Transmission Neutral Switch? if it is bad the Starter will not engage. Just giving you more to check out. You will need help with this. Someone has to turn the Ignition to the Start position.
Well Well, Today I looked at the fuse box diagrams In the owners manual for the tenth time and was going thru the list of each fuse, module amd relay. On the engine compartment fuse box I came across number 43 that says Starter. Right next to the relay Is number 42 that says powertrain and Is the same number relay as number 43. I switched them around and thought maybe the number 43 may be bad. Climbed Into the R with fingers crossed and guess what, The engine strarted like nothing happened. Tomorrow I will go to the chevy dealer and buy two relays and have one for a spare. Just thinking that maybe that Is one relay to carry around In the R like having a spare Ignition switch. If anyone Is on a trip or away from home and the engine will not start like what happened to me. A quick fix for the cost of the relay. So happy for the fine that Captain Morgan rum and celebration Is the plan for the rest of the day. nOT BEING MUCH OF A BACKYARD MECHANIC, iM ONE HAPPY CAMPER. Thanks for reading.
Well Well, Today I looked at the fuse box diagrams In the owners manual for the tenth time and was going thru the list of each fuse, module amd relay. On the engine compartment fuse box I came across number 43 that says Starter. Right next to the relay Is number 42 that says powertrain and Is the same number relay as number 43. I switched them around and thought maybe the number 43 may be bad. Climbed Into the R with fingers crossed and guess what, The engine strarted like nothing happened. Tomorrow I will go to the chevy dealer and buy two relays and have one for a spare. Just thinking that maybe that Is one relay to carry around In the R like having a spare Ignition switch. If anyone Is on a trip or away from home and the engine will not start like what happened to me. A quick fix for the cost of the relay. So happy for the fine that Captain Morgan rum and celebration Is the plan for the rest of the day. nOT BEING MUCH OF A BACKYARD MECHANIC, iM ONE HAPPY CAMPER. Thanks for reading.
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
Quote:
Originally Posted by donnys05ssr
Well Well, Today I looked at the fuse box diagrams In the owners manual for the tenth time and was going thru the list of each fuse, module amd relay. On the engine compartment fuse box I came across number 43 that says Starter. Right next to the relay Is number 42 that says powertrain and Is the same number relay as number 43. I switched them around and thought maybe the number 43 may be bad. Climbed Into the R with fingers crossed and guess what, The engine strarted like nothing happened. Tomorrow I will go to the chevy dealer and buy two relays and have one for a spare. Just thinking that maybe that Is one relay to carry around In the R like having a spare Ignition switch. If anyone Is on a trip or away from home and the engine will not start like what happened to me. A quick fix for the cost of the relay. So happy for the fine that Captain Morgan rum and celebration Is the plan for the rest of the day. nOT BEING MUCH OF A BACKYARD MECHANIC, iM ONE HAPPY CAMPER. Thanks for reading.
For not being a good backyard mechanic I think you did great!
No. I still have the daytime light problem. I have two new modules that are for the DRLS that go Into the electrical panel on the driver side of the compartment when you put the top down. Also there Is another module In the fuse box In the engine compartment. I will change It too. I know one thing, Im learning alot about these complicated tucks, Especialy the wiring. I have the repair manuals on the way and I should get alot of good Information to help. Thanks for reading.
No. I still have the daytime light problem. I have two new modules that are for the DRLS that go Into the electrical panel on the driver side of the compartment when you put the top down. Also there Is another module In the fuse box In the engine compartment. I will change It too. I know one thing, Im learning alot about these complicated tucks, Especialy the wiring. I have the repair manuals on the way and I should get alot of good Information to help. Thanks for reading.
The Photocell turns on and off the Daylight running Relay. Cover up the Photocell with a Paper Cup or Tape. The HD Lights and Tail Lights should come on. If not the cell is bad or a relay is not fired. (Bad Coil??) Daylight mode runs off the Normally Closed side of the Relay. Night time the Photocell energizes the Relay. This turns on all running lights. Hope this helps.
I put the two modules In the back relay box where the top goes down. The two modules were ok and the daytime running lights did not go on. As for the module In the fuse box In the engine compartment, My neighbor up the street brought his 05R over and before I went to buy module number 47, which Is In the fuse box that shows where It Is located In the owners manual, He had his DRLS on and then I pulled his module off and tried the one from my R. Yep, The lights did not light up. Tomorrow I will go to the chevy dealer and buy a new one. Another great electrical problem find. The module number On the top reads, 15016745. Another good day of fixing things and a couple more rum and cokes for the celebration?? This Is good Information for everyone to write down for If the same things happen.
My SSR: #23198 06 Blue 3SS #375 of 532 - Birthday 12/21/05 - Took delivery 9/5/06 (2nd owner)
Quote:
Originally Posted by donnys05ssr
I put the two modules In the back relay box where the top goes down. The two modules were ok and the daytime running lights did not go on. As for the module In the fuse box In the engine compartment, My neighbor up the street brought his 05R over and before I went to buy module number 47, which Is In the fuse box that shows where It Is located In the owners manual, He had his DRLS on and then I pulled his module off and tried the one from my R. Yep, The lights did not light up. Tomorrow I will go to the chevy dealer and buy a new one. Another great electrical problem find. The module number On the top reads, 15016745. Another good day of fixing things and a couple more rum and cokes for the celebration?? This Is good Information for everyone to write down for If the same things happen.
Put it in at the dealership and try it while one of their guys is watching. That way you have a witness if it fails and you want them to figure out why a good one goes bad when installed. I am assuming that is why you put yours in the other truck rather than put a working one in your truck as the test.
__________________
Use the SSR Parts Exchange It works for us all BlueStreak - One of the Blues Brothers
HAPPY DAYS ARE HEAR AGAIN. I CAN NOW DRIVE AT NIGHT. THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS ARE NOW WORKING. TRYING TO FIND OUT THE THINGS THAT WENT BAD WAS A TIME CONSUMING EXPERIENCE. AS IT TURNED OUT THE ONLY RELAY THAT WAS BAD, WAS THE ONE FOR THE STARTER THAT WAS IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX. THE RELAY FOR THE DAYTINME RUNNING LIGHTS TURNED OUT TO BE IN THE WRONG PLACE. THE PEOPLE WHO OWNED THE R BEFORE ME HAD TAKEN THE RELAY OUT AND PUSHED IT INTO ANOTHER SPOT THAT WAS A BLANK. BY MOVING THE RELAY THERE ELIMINATED THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS FROM COMING ON. iF ANYONE WANTED TO HAVE THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS NOT COME ON, MOVING THE RELAY TO A BLANK SPOT, THAT WOULD BE VERY EASY TO DO AND IT IS IN THE FUSE BOX IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.