i went to start the truck and the keys wont turn in the ignition. what can i do? any ideas? the chevy house says i have to have it towed in. which is going to be really difficult because of where it is parked. if i disconect the battery would that help?
My SSR: WE have an Aqua Blur 05 and a Redline Red 05
Try moving the steering wheel slightly from side to side and make sure the shifter is all the way in park if it's an automatic. Sometimes it's something just in a bind. If you're parked on an incline you may need to rock the truck forward or reverse a little.
My SSR: 2006 Racy Aqua Blur 6spd Front end all Chrome/SS Tuned/ported
What year? Auto tranny?
, perhaps the steering wheel was pulled on when exiting the SSR last time. That can lock up the steering wheel. Do the above mentioned tips but with out hard movements, side to side pulls on the steering wheel usually will get it out of the bind. Release the trans then rock the steering wheel. Then try the movement for the whole SSR as described by the others posting. A Locksmith is cheaper than towing to dealer. Maybe try that angle, call one and see what they can do for you.
I've got the same problem. My battery died- took it in under warranty and they said there was a bad cell. New battery installed but I can't get the key to turn the ignition. Do I have to wait a while so it has more charge, or what? I remember this happening when I installed this last battery, but the ignition finally turned at one point (maybe I waited long enough)? The new battery has been in about 25 mins now.
My SSR: "Kate" a Haughty Redhead, '06 Redline FPR 6 spd. #23333 Build Date 2/16/06
Quote:
Originally Posted by AynRand
I've got the same problem. My battery died- took it in under warranty and they said there was a bad cell. New battery installed but I can't get the key to turn the ignition. Do I have to wait a while so it has more charge, or what? I remember this happening when I installed this last battery, but the ignition finally turned at one point (maybe I waited long enough)? The new battery has been in about 25 mins now.
Thanks for any help on this.
Bridge
If the new battery did not have a full charge, installation isn't going to improve it, at least without getting the vehicle started. Whatever is up with the switch shouldn't be battery related IMO.
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If the new battery did not have a full charge, installation isn't going to improve it, at least without getting the vehicle started. Whatever is up with the switch shouldn't be battery related IMO.
Right... duh on the thinking it needed to charge on a new battery. I guess I have gotten used to jump starting lately so I was in that line of thinking. The new battery is indeed fully charged.
I just remember this happening on the last new battery installation (just over 2 years ago)- the key got stuck in the ignition, then finally released and the ignition turned. Maybe that was just coincidence.
In this case, Dan hooked up the jumper cables and the alarm went off. So he then tuned the alarm off and tried to start it up. Then the key got stuck in the ignition, then released but the ignition won't turn since.
I had this problem and it was a loose battery terminal connection. Try disconnecting and connecting the battery again then it will probably let go of the key, after you turn off the alarm.
I had this problem and it was a loose battery terminal connection. Try disconnecting and connecting the battery again then it will probably let go of the key, after you turn off the alarm.
AKWARES
Thanks. The key is already released (he was able to get it out shortly after he turned off the alarm) but the key won't turn the ignition at all since then.
The only thing a low battery charge should prevent you from doing with the key is moving the ignition switch to the fully off position and removing the key.
You should always be able to physically turn the ignition from the "On" to "Start" positions. If the key is physically not turning the ignition lock cylinder then you might have a key/lock cylinder issue.
The SSR has no steering wheel column locking system so there is nothing to bind the key's movement other than trying to turn the key to the fully off position which requires enough battery charge to have the transmission park position switch pull the solenoid back to allow the key to travel to the fully off position.
This sounds more mechanical than electrical since it's the physical movement of the lock cylinder that is restricted in all directions (correct?).
Stupid question, correct key being used?
Did you try the other key to see if the tested key has a "problem" or is not the correct one?
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04 Chevy SSR | 12 Dodge Charger SRT8 | 04 Ford Thunderbird PCR #428 | 06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid
The only thing a low battery charge should prevent you from doing with the key is moving the ignition switch to the fully off position and removing the key.
You should always be able to physically turn the ignition from the "On" to "Start" positions. If the key is physically not turning the ignition lock cylinder then you might have a key/lock cylinder issue.
The SSR has no steering wheel column locking system so there is nothing to bind the key's movement other than trying to turn the key to the fully off position which requires enough battery charge to have the transmission park position switch pull the solenoid back to allow the key to travel to the fully off position.
This sounds more mechanical than electrical since it's the physical movement of the lock cylinder that is restricted in all directions (correct?).
Stupid question, correct key being used?
Did you try the other key to see if the tested key has a "problem" or is not the correct one?
Right the physical movement of the lock cylinder is restricted in all directions. My husband did say that when he tried to start while jumping it, the key got stuck, but after more charge it released. Since that point, it's been restricted after re-inserting the key about 20 times now.
Correct key is being used. I had it re-keyed a year ago because my keys (and everything else in my purse including ID with my address) was stolen locally. When the dealer re-keyed it, they made 2 extras, so I have tried a total of 4 keys.
Just to clarify, this would not be a ignition switch problem, right? I have searched through the ignition switch problem threads and don't see anything stating that the cylinder was locked, but I thought I'd clarify on that.
My SSR: Pearl over UV tu-tone - "PurLple" w/ custom billet rallye wheels/baby moons & wide whitewalls, 4:56s
A couple years ago I could turn my key but not take it out. Turned out to be the auto shifter, it wasn't completely in Park. I thought it was because the doors unlocked but it needed another tiny bit more forward for the key to know it was. ( I had installed an aftermarket shifter knob that was taller , that was removed promptly and I have used the OEM knob ever since with no problems)
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A couple years ago I could turn my key but not take it out. Turned out to be the auto shifter, it wasn't completely in Park. I thought it was because the doors unlocked but it needed another tiny bit more forward for the key to know it was. ( I had installed an aftermarket shifter knob that was taller , that was removed promptly and I have used the OEM knob ever since with no problems)
Thanks. My auto shifter was in park, it's locked as is now, the button won't move down at all, and I have tried to push the shifter up without the button depression, but there is no movement.
Right the physical movement of the lock cylinder is restricted in all directions. My husband did say that when he tried to start while jumping it, the key got stuck, but after more charge it released. Since that point, it's been restricted after re-inserting the key about 20 times now.
Correct key is being used. I had it re-keyed a year ago because my keys (and everything else in my purse including ID with my address) was stolen locally. When the dealer re-keyed it, they made 2 extras, so I have tried a total of 4 keys.
Just to clarify, this would not be a ignition switch problem, right? I have searched through the ignition switch problem threads and don't see anything stating that the cylinder was locked, but I thought I'd clarify on that.
Sent info via PM
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04 Chevy SSR | 12 Dodge Charger SRT8 | 04 Ford Thunderbird PCR #428 | 06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid
Last edited by shiftz33; 01-19-2010 at 12:25 PM.
Reason: Removed info and sent via PM
My SSR: #23198 06 Blue 3SS #375 of 532 - Birthday 12/21/05 - Took delivery 9/5/06 (2nd owner)
As much as I am learning a lot from this discussion, I wonder if it would not be better in PMs so we don't make it too easy for some one with not so legit ideas to steal our trucks. Just a cautious thought.
Edit: If you feel I am paranoid, just tell me and I'll butt out.
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Use the SSR Parts Exchange It works for us all BlueStreak - One of the Blues Brothers
The service manual diags for "High Lock Effort" suggest checking the lock cylinder and/or ignition switch for damage. Inspect for "incorrect, worn or damaged key".
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04 Chevy SSR | 12 Dodge Charger SRT8 | 04 Ford Thunderbird PCR #428 | 06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid
We went back to the battery and reconnected the terminals to see if it would help, and no luck. The only thing that did is set off the alarm. We'll probably have to wait for the weekend to try anything else. GAH!!!
As much as I am learning a lot from this discussion, I wonder if it would not be better in PMs so we don't make it too easy for some one with not so legit ideas to steal our trucks. Just a cautious thought.
Edit: If you feel I am paranoid, just tell me and I'll butt out.
Good point
Quote:
Originally Posted by ykp53
i went to start the truck and the keys wont turn in the ignition. what can i do? any ideas? the chevy house says i have to have it towed in. which is going to be really difficult because of where it is parked. if i disconect the battery would that help?
My SSR: 2006 Racy Aqua Blur 6spd Front end all Chrome/SS Tuned/ported
good to be careful
Car thief(s) have more means and methods than you can dream of. No worries with the info and posts. Besides the search engine in the Forum heading has a lot of this info from past years..
My SSR: #23198 06 Blue 3SS #375 of 532 - Birthday 12/21/05 - Took delivery 9/5/06 (2nd owner)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AynRand
We went back to the battery and reconnected the terminals to see if it would help, and no luck. The only thing that did is set off the alarm. We'll probably have to wait for the weekend to try anything else. GAH!!!
It is really sad that we only hear from you when you are having trouble with the SSR. Makes it seem like you have no fun with it.
I hope all else is going well with you guys.
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Use the SSR Parts Exchange It works for us all BlueStreak - One of the Blues Brothers
My SSR: Black, '03, 1sb, #1256, License Plate was WOW FCTR
Quote:
Originally Posted by AynRand
We went back to the battery and reconnected the terminals to see if it would help, and no luck. The only thing that did is set off the alarm. We'll probably have to wait for the weekend to try anything else. GAH!!!
When I was getting my stereo installed, the installer blew a fuse which prevented me from removing the key (I was able to start the truck, but it only would drive in 2nd gear....just saying that weird things happened from one blown fuse). I'd hate to say check ALL your fuses as he may have blown one when jumping the vehicle, but you might want to try that...even the ones in the water fall area too....
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2003 Black SSR #1256 1sb
100000 miles (02/04/07)....
150000 miles (10/22/08)....
175000 miles (3/2/10)....
200,000 miles (6/9/11)...
211,000+ today
Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions, and thanks too for understanding my absence here.
WOW- We will look at the fuses this weekend too. Looks like they're calling for bad weather for part of the weekend, so hopefully we can do as much as we'd like to and perhaps find the problem.
I noticed the radio is also not working, so perhaps it is indeed a crazy fuse issue. When I called the dealer the other day, they said the radio not coming on was a matter of re-entering a code?
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, perhaps the steering wheel was pulled on when exiting the SSR last time. That can lock up the steering wheel. Do the above mentioned tips but with out hard movements, side to side pulls on the steering wheel usually will get it out of the bind. Release the trans then rock the steering wheel. Then try the movement for the whole SSR as described by the others posting. A Locksmith is cheaper than towing to dealer. Maybe try that angle, call one and see what they can do for you.
I guess I have gotten used to jump starting lately so I was in that line of thinking. The new battery is indeed fully charged. 
The truck is useless without being able to start it. 
SANDY
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