This has been driving me nuts, every time I open the door, 3 LOUD clicks. I did some search, advised to replace. CBE that I am, for a dime It Is FIXED. The sound was coming from slack at the pin attached to the door sill.
A sliver of Alumn. bar and a sliver of mouse pad for sound mitigation. Insert between the pinned dowel and the mounting bracket, 3 wraps of elect. tape and NO MORE NOISE.
I used to cringe every time I opened the door, now just sweet silence. I hope this may help some of you, Pay back the the help received.
No Sir. The pin head is soft and stripped. A vice would not remove, Maybe press fit? You do NOT have to remove anything for this application. If the pin dowel fit has become loose the spring tension makes the click/bang.
The fix is to mitigate the slop by inserting a stop between the dowel and the sill mount.
If your problem is the same as mine, open the door and watch the pin/dowel. At each stop you will see slack between the pin and dowel.
Now gently move the door you will see the slop. Gently void the slop and insert a flat screw driver on the back side, between the sill and dowel. gently apply pressure and you will notice the noise is gone, relief of spring pressure, eh.
I cut a small piece of alum. about the size of the driver head and bent it to fit between the mount and the dowel, a U shape , much better! Then i used a small piece of mat between the alum and dowel, total silence. To assure the clip stayed in place i wrapped a few turns of tape. I can't post pics yet but I hope you get my drift. Rand
Hey Dicktator, Thanks for the help this morning. After the ignition install I went for the door click. Fixed it. It was so ez and worked so well I did not take Pics. first try done. I will replicate and download later. This required nothing but an insert at the offending point. I will test and retest but for now it works and I believe is the simple answer to the click/bang. Rand
No Sir. The pin head is soft and stripped. A vice would not remove, Maybe press fit? You do NOT have to remove anything for this application. If the pin dowel fit has become loose the spring tension makes the click/bang.
The fix is to mitigate the slop by inserting a stop between the dowel and the sill mount.
If your problem is the same as mine, open the door and watch the pin/dowel. At each stop you will see slack between the pin and dowel.
Now gently move the door you will see the slop. Gently void the slop and insert a flat screw driver on the back side, between the sill and dowel. gently apply pressure and you will notice the noise is gone, relief of spring pressure, eh.
I cut a small piece of alum. about the size of the driver head and bent it to fit between the mount and the dowel, a U shape , much better! Then i used a small piece of mat between the alum and dowel, total silence. To assure the clip stayed in place i wrapped a few turns of tape. I can't post pics yet but I hope you get my drift. Rand
I'm going to try this tomorrow as soon as I get my truck back from the dealer. (They are replacing the fuse block due to the "cranks won't run" syndrome.)
The noise has been driving me crazy for over a year.
If your "fix" stops the stupid noise I'll kiss you full on the mouth.
OK, I got carried away. I won't do that but I'll be forever in your debt.
Can't wait 'til tomorrow.
__________________ Ron "Middle age is when your age starts to show around your middle." - Bob Hope
My SSR: "04 Redline. My other SSR is a 1934 Chevy "Vicky"
Door check
The part number for the door check (left or right) is 15163692. Unfortunately the part has been discontinued by GM. The only alternative I know of is getting one from a yard.
The part number for the door check (left or right) is 15163692. Unfortunately the part has been discontinued by GM. The only alternative I know of is getting one from a yard.
Wonder what the cross reference number would be. In other words, what parts bin did it really come from.
My SSR: not the prettiest, nor the fastest but she's my bitchin SSR!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicktator
Of course we all know the REAL fix is to replace the latch mechanism.
You have to take door panel off to replace it. Little more work than a "quick" fix.
After a while the "quick" fix will start to click because the pin will wear even more.
Here is a picture of the Latch Mechanism, don't have part #.
Dicktator
Yeah, I've had mine off for about six months
now. Ordered one through GM nation.
Those were tossed by GM instead of stocking
them. Tried several others but none were the correct
length. I'm thinking about grinding off the swedged
end of the pin. Drive it out and find a bolt replacement!
Yeah, I've had mine off for about six months
now. Ordered one through GM nation.
Those were tossed by GM instead of stocking
them. Tried several others but none were the correct
length. I'm thinking about grinding off the swedged
end of the pin. Drive it out and find a bolt replacement!
Grinding off the head of the bolt and replacing it is what I was thinking about doing.
Be sure it is case hardened! Like Grade 8 or so.
Probably the bolt that is in the OEM latch is not hardened bolt, that is why it wears.
OP...there are places/suppliers/web sites that list the part, but when you go to buy one, an email will come back to you in a day or so saying not available. I tried to get the part from several of these "suppliers" and none of them were able to supply the part. That is why I recommend going to a yard. Unless of course you are Dictator....then you design a fix for the old one. GO DICK.
OP...there are places/suppliers/web sites that list the part, but when you go to buy one, an email will come back to you in a day or so saying not available. I tried to get the part from several of these "suppliers" and none of them were able to supply the part. That is why I recommend going to a yard. Unless of course you are Dictator....then you design a fix for the old one. GO DICK.
Lou, Thanks for the challenge, I will just do that. Need to take my door apart and put in the new latch anyway.
Do it next week and let you know what I did for a fix.
Until a better fix is fabricated try, the wedge. It may not be a permanent solution but I no longer cringe every time I open the door and it takes 5 min. and 10 cents. I have open/closed my door 100 times testing and it is still working. Randayn
Until a better fix is fabricated try, the wedge. It may not be a permanent solution but I no longer cringe every time I open the door and it takes 5 min. and 10 cents. I have open/closed my door 100 times testing and it is still working. Randayn
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Did you remove the pin from the shaft?
, Mike 
Linear Mode
