Over the past couple of weeks, my fuel level indicator has declined steadily to the point where I now fuel everyday out of paranoia. All of the other gauges in the primary instrument cluster seem to work properly; though when I start the vehicle and the gauges reset, I've noticed somewhat of a grinding sound coming from behind the cluster. The grinding sounds like two worn out gears are spinning against each other. Anyone know what I can do to fix this? It seems like every other month something is breaking on my 'R'. First the tranny died, then the passenger inside door handle broke, now this.
Stepper motor failure.....just went through the same problem on the speedo. My mother had the same failure on her SSR.
I removed the instrument cluster from her and my SSR last week. I found a company in Corona California that rebuilds the clusters. Sent my Father down with the 2 units at 9:00 a.m. and we had them back same day @ 2:00 p.m. Quality work and a reasonable price. We paid 150.00 each to have them rebuilt. You might want to look into them.
Stepper motor failure.....just went through the same problem on the speedo. My mother had the same failure on her SSR.
I removed the instrument cluster from her and my SSR last week. I found a company in Corona California that rebuilds the clusters. Sent my Father down with the 2 units at 9:00 a.m. and we had them back same day @ 2:00 p.m. Quality work and a reasonable price. We paid 150.00 each to have them rebuilt. You might want to look into them.
Excellent. I'll check into it. I just had the car scanned at the dealer down the street and they said it was putting out a PO463 error code. The technician suggested it may be a problem with the sensor within the fuel tank after I suggested that it may be the stepper motor.
Stepper motor failure.....just went through the same problem on the speedo. My mother had the same failure on her SSR.
I removed the instrument cluster from her and my SSR last week. I found a company in Corona California that rebuilds the clusters. Sent my Father down with the 2 units at 9:00 a.m. and we had them back same day @ 2:00 p.m. Quality work and a reasonable price. We paid 150.00 each to have them rebuilt. You might want to look into them.
Excellent. I'll check into it. I just had the car scanned at the dealer down the street and they said it was putting out a PO463 error code. The technician suggested it may be a problem with the sensor within the fuel tank after I suggested that it may be the stepper motor.
That was my first thought, but it doesn't explain the grinding noise in the dash.
Typical dash removal just like you were trying to remove the radio. The cluster has 4 screws to remove, 7mm socket required. Then 1 plug to disconnect. Very simple once the front dash panel is removed
Typical dash removal just like you were trying to remove the radio. The cluster has 4 screws to remove, 7mm socket required. Then 1 plug to disconnect. Very simple once the front dash panel is removed
It's not necessary to remove the dash face and have to fight the airbag.
Remove the LH and RH dash trim, remove the 7mm screws behind the trim on the left side right to the radio. Remove the upper and lower dash gauge bezels, them pull out on the dash face carefully left to right up to the radio.
This will give you enough room to remove the dash cluster.
It's not necessary to remove the dash face and have to fight the airbag.
Remove the LH and RH dash trim, remove the 7mm screws behind the trim on the left side right to the radio. Remove the upper and lower dash gauge bezels, them pull out on the dash face carefully left to right up to the radio.
This will give you enough room to remove the dash cluster.
I did not know that. But I only have the 2 lower screws holding in the passenger airbag. So it only takes me 2 minutes to remove it.But that is important info if I need to do another R.
It's not necessary to remove the dash face and have to fight the airbag.
Remove the LH and RH dash trim, remove the 7mm screws behind the trim on the left side right to the radio. Remove the upper and lower dash gauge bezels, them pull out on the dash face carefully left to right up to the radio.
This will give you enough room to remove the dash cluster.
Thanks Doug, do you think you could edit your response and put "Removal of Speedo Cluster" as the title so it will come up on a search.
P.S. Every time I see your Avatar I get an strong urge to go to IN-N-Out Burger for a Large order of fry's. Yum
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He came to pay a debt He didn't owe for those who had a debt they couldn't pay.
It's not necessary to remove the dash face and have to fight the airbag.
Remove the LH and RH dash trim, remove the 7mm screws behind the trim on the left side right to the radio. Remove the upper and lower dash gauge bezels, them pull out on the dash face carefully left to right up to the radio.
This will give you enough room to remove the dash cluster.
Awesome, thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUN ROD RUN
On the subject of instrument cluster repair, I found a guy in the Sherman Oaks area that will do it for $100 either at his shop or your home.
Tamas Oszkar
4500 Woodman.
Sherman Oaks 91423
Ph 818-310-1866
I’m planning on going to Sherman Oaks one of these days before we head to Laughlin as my speedometer acting up from time to time.
Sweet.
I also forgot to mention that my fuel cap no longer seals. The check engine light has been on for about a week and I have a sneaking suspicion the cap is causing it. I'm going to buy a new one today and see what happens. Does anyone think that it could be at all related to the teetering fuel indicator? It still wouldn't explain the grinding though..
hmm..
In the worst case, I would have to replace the stepper motor and whatever sensor is inside of the fuel tank. I just ordered a replacement door piece for the broken passenger handle for $116; they say bad things come in threes, right?
Thanks, John. Is there a sensor in or around that piece that could cause the gauge to teeter?
Yes, the fuel gage sender arm. The pivot point gets worn and the problem begins producing "Check Gage Light" and/or "Check Engine Light". It has happened to a number of Fanatics, but some believe it is not a widespread problem.
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He came to pay a debt He didn't owe for those who had a debt they couldn't pay.
Yes, the fuel gage sender arm. The pivot point gets worn and the problem begins producing "Check Gage Light" and/or "Check Engine Light". It has happened to a number of Fanatics, but some believe it is not a widespread problem.
Do you happen to how the stepper motor works on the primary gauge cluster? Does each gauge have it's own, or do several share one? I'm debating how I should approach this problem; send the cluster for repair, or work with the fuel tank.
Do you happen to how the stepper motor works on the primary gauge cluster? Does each gauge have it's own, or do several share one? I'm debating how I should approach this problem; send the cluster for repair, or work with the fuel tank.
You are getting way beyond my pay grade now. It is time for the Guru's and Gearhead's to jump in.
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He came to pay a debt He didn't owe for those who had a debt they couldn't pay.
Last edited by JOHN317; 12-04-2010 at 11:29 AM.
Reason: splg
Do you happen to how the stepper motor works on the primary gauge cluster? Does each gauge have it's own, or do several share one? I'm debating how I should approach this problem; send the cluster for repair, or work with the fuel tank.
Each gauge has it's own. Do a search on "gauge cluster" by hdflstf and you'll see some pictures he has posted.
Well, as fate would have it.. I was driving along the 101 coming up on a restaurant I was planning to stop at when the truck shut off as 25 MPH. It had enough power that the steering wasn't quite gone yet but I pulled safely into a parking lane on the side of the street. I tried to start the truck several times but immediately after firing, it would sputter and die. I'm pretty ignorant about the mechanics but my first guess would be that the fuel pump has died. Thoughts?
My SSR: Striping by Fairfield, Confidence by Mike in AZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot
Well, as fate would have it.. I was driving along the 101 coming up on a restaurant I was planning to stop at when the truck shut off as 25 MPH. It had enough power that the steering was quite gone yet but I pulled safely into a parking lane on the side of the street. I tried to start the truck several times but immediately after firing, it would sputter and die. I'm pretty ignorant about the mechanics but my first guess would be that the fuel pump has died. Thoughts?
C
if it does it again, you can re-gain some power stuff by cranking the engine (even tho it won't start) so you have vacuum and power steering. That will get you to a safe stop.
It sounds like either a fuel pump or ECM problem.
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No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.
if it does it again, you can re-gain some power stuff by cranking the engine (even tho it won't start) so you have vacuum and power steering. That will get you to a safe stop.
It sounds like either a fuel pump or ECM problem.
if it does it again, you can re-gain some power stuff by cranking the engine (even tho it won't start) so you have vacuum and power steering. That will get you to a safe stop.
It sounds like either a fuel pump or ECM problem.
I wish I could even get started again let alone moving, heh. Any idea how much the fuel pump replacements are? What kind of ECM problem could it be?
I wish I could even get started again let alone moving, heh. Any idea how much the fuel pump replacements are? What kind of ECM problem could it be?
You can do a search but , I believe someone had said it was in the area of $1300 if done at a dealer. About $400 in parts if you DIY. See the link referenced in the above thread for DIY instructions.
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He came to pay a debt He didn't owe for those who had a debt they couldn't pay.
My SSR: '04 Black / silver roof and hood. Magna charger. Air tech suspension. Flow master cat back
Sounds like the fuel pump. All the sighs you have said are the same as I had on my GMC Sierra. If you hit the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallett a couple times, the engine might start enough to get you home! It just shakes things up in the fuel fump enough to get some fuel through.
Sounds like the fuel pump. All the sighs you have said are the same as I had on my GMC Sierra. If you hit the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallett a couple times, the engine might start enough to get you home! It just shakes things up in the fuel fump enough to get some fuel through.
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