I finally got around to taking some pictures of Ignition Switch install.
Here goes and hope this helps.
PLEASE WAIT UNTIL I GET ALL THE PICTURES ON BEFORE YOU COMMENT, THANKS.
Dicktator
Key is and has been in "RUN" Position from the start. Key MUST NOT BE MOVED FROM RUN POSITION DURING THIS CHANGE. IT IT DOES YOU WILL BE IN WRONG TOOTH POSITION WHEN YOU REPLACE SWITCH!!!
If you prefer you can disconnect the power at the red box, passengers side.
1. Pull "tilt" lever, comes straight out. May need to wrap with cloth and use pliers.
2. Check bottom of half of wheel column to see if there are any screws (torque) holding the bottom half to column. Most are missing. Use mirror and flash light to look up into holes. BEFORE you try and separate the bottom half.
3. Separate bottom half from steering column. Not hard but not easy either. Patiences is needed here. It will take lots of flexing to release the "hooks/tabs" that hold it to the column. Don't try and "Pull it Out". Just work it until it drops down.
4. Lift up gentle and pull toward you. See the hooks that hold it in place. Try not to tear those off.
5. This is the bottom half and you can see the way it attachés. This will help you to understand what holds it and how to remove the part.
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1. Harness on steering column
2. Cut tie wrap to release harness
3. Pull harness out of routing channel
4. Gentle pull down out of way.
5. The RELEASE button to get your Key out. You can remove bottom half and push this release button any time you have an issue with low voltage and can't get your key out of the ignition.
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1. Tab on each side of switch holds it in place. Small flat screw driver, push in tab, pull down slightly and then release the other side.
2. Start removing switch but wires on back are in "J" hook. Carefully remove from "J" hook, if you break it, its okay, NEW switch has "J" hook.
3. Remove from "J" hook and you will replace the same way when installing the new one.
4. Remove Switch. Remember power is still "ON".
5. Small flat screw driver may be needed to release this clip from the harness.
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1. Separate switch from harness and plug in new switch.
2. Push gear with thumb until it is against the "Spring", i.e. start/run position. If you push hard enough your R will start. (Power is on).
3. Replace switch.
4. Put wires behind "J" hook.
5. Key is and has been in "RUN" Position from the start. Key MUST NOT BE MOVED FROM RUN POSITION DURING THIS CHANGE. IT IT DOES YOU WILL BE IN WRONG TOOTH POSITION WHEN YOU REPLACE SWITCH!!!
Thanks for your time and effort on documenting this procedure. I know many of us will use theses pix; for years to come. I think, Doug Allen also took some Pic's, when he installed his IGN, Switch.
My SSR: Black '03/'34 Ford 3-Window/'49 Merc Sled/'55 Ford Tudor Hotrod
A-OK in my book!!!
Thank you for taking the time and effort to document this fix for us who may need it in the future. Enjoy your cruiser!!! Check out my photos of my other rides by clicking on the little black camera on the left of this post.
My SSR: Maybellene 2006 SSR Auto #23699 SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER Build Date: 03/02/2006
Thank you very much Dick
As usual another great tutorial keep
them comming
Cheers
__________________ Mike - mikebike in Surrey BC Canada Licence plate MY SSR
2006 SSR Auto SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER
Build Date: 03/02/2006 My SSR Photos
My SSR: Maybellene 2006 SSR Auto #23699 SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER Build Date: 03/02/2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by lou7777777
Shouldn't this become a "sticky"?
I think that is a good idea
__________________ Mike - mikebike in Surrey BC Canada Licence plate MY SSR
2006 SSR Auto SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER
Build Date: 03/02/2006 My SSR Photos
My SSR: Ricochet Silver built 11-8-04, #17696. K&N, headers, Flowmaster,Trifecta Tuned, Phoenixed Tranny
i copied this to word w pics and will be attempting tomorrow
hope this works and R starts
i miss my R and i need it to head to Moms and get house ready to sell
My SSR: '03 #01155 Painted stripes, Flomaster, K&N air system, Port/polished Throttle Body, Custom Tuned
Thanks, Dick!!!
I copied the pictures, 2 on a page with the numbered captions below each. It made a 10 page instruction booklet with large pictures. I printed it out and will keep it in my SSR in case I ever have to change it myself.
Thank you for taking the pictures and showing us how to do it!
I noticed in your video that the switch sprocket was in the wrong position before you did.
Here is an EASY check for everyone changing a switch, which I need to add to the instruction "Sticky". (Maybe OP can help me with that).
Pictures:
1. NOTICE where the two half's of the plastic steering column come together matches with the "Grove, Notch, indent" on the ignition switch.
2. Make this visual "Check" before you button up your switch change.
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