Topless SSR Pit Crew
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Port Lavaca, TX
Blue Voodoo, 2006 Pacific Blue 3SS Auto, Born 8/26/2005 (first day of PB), adopted 11/16/12
Hope you guys don't mind a little input from a newbie... but I've been a racer for many years, and have done probably a hundred suspension rebuilds with that in mind.
Poly bushings... yes! The increased regidity of the new bar is only part of the improvement, the increase density of the poly bushings is perhaps 40% of the reduction in sway you're trying to get.
Do they squeak? Yes, but not if they're done correctly. I've used the graphite spray before (good suggestion), but I much prefer the silicone based poly bushing lube that usually ships with them. If you check the performance isle of you local parts store you sould find it. Usually in a small red container similar to a 35mm film cartridge, but also in squeeze tubes. I'll post up some of the more common brands if you're interested. This lube keeps the bushings from drying out due to the moisture/drying cycles they'll see under your R. I have several on my race car that are tapped with fittings (purchased this way), but I've never had to add additional grease. Energy Suspension bushing are sold in Auto Zone and have the fittings already in place, including the mounting bracket and hardware. You'll need the diameter of the new bar to get the right ones.
Now.... here's the real secret to eliminating the sqeak. If you tighten suspension components with the car in a raised or supported position, the 1st thing they do when you set it down is to try to twist into the new postion (compressed and lowered). No matter how much grease you add, they will always be under load, and prone to squeakage (lol). If you have a pit (most don't) leave all joints loose, roll the car over it, then tighten up all the suspension components. I cheat. Raise one end, remove tires on both sides, then support the hubs from underneath (be careful not to damage the discs, covers, or ball joints). I usually use a jack or block on each wheel with a piece of wood on top to soften the contact point. Lower car carefully onto the wheel supports until it's sitting just as it would when the tires are installed. Now the suspension is compressed to normal, and the tires are out of the way, so you reach all of the nuts/bolts that need to be tightened. Also, it's a pain, but use a torque wrench if at all possible and follow Chevy's specs.
I promise you will have the best riding and quietest SSR around.
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----Lil Bugger-----------Blue Voodoo-------------Red
When you're as average as I am, you tend to be drawn to the unique