Installing ADDCO front bar

[MCV]

Installing ADDCO front bar Friday afternoon and woukd like to know about any problems I may run into. I have read that it is easier to install from the pasenger side and use new nuts. I have also read about squeaking from the bushings, do I just grease them when installed? Any input is appreciated

[Mike in AZ]

There is another option for the bar mounts....... You can use the stock rubber mounts. They are a little more pliable and therefore put a little give into the mounts.... but they don't squeak.

You can swap the mounts out easily after the bar is installed. You can start with either mount, greased or not and still not create a lot of extra work for yourself.

Let us know how this turns out....

Mike

[Achias]

I let the pros do the front at the same time that they did the lowering springs. I added the grease fitting and they still squeaked a bit for a few weeks, but I haven't heard them since.

If you're going with the new sway bars for better handling, stick with the poly bushings - that's what they're for.

[MCV]

Went in with little trouble, used the parts supplied from ADDCO and no noise amazing difference in handling, Thanks Mike!

[Shadowman]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

There is another option for the bar mounts....... You can use the stock rubber mounts. They are a little more pliable and therefore put a little give into the mounts.... but they don't squeak.

You can swap the mounts out easily after the bar is installed. You can start with either mount, greased or not and still not create a lot of extra work for yourself.

Let us know how this turns out....

Mike

I need to add grease fittings to my rear bar, it squeaks UNBELIEVABLY badly! Does anyone know if you can remove the mounts with the bar installed? Is is it in tension, where it could hurt you if you unbolt the mounts? Can they be drilled in place? Do you drill the poly all the way though to the bar as well? Thanks!

[Mike in AZ]

Originally Posted by Shadowman

I need to add grease fittings to my rear bar, it squeaks UNBELIEVABLY badly! Does anyone know if you can remove the mounts with the bar installed? Is is it in tension, where it could hurt you if you unbolt the mounts? Can they be drilled in place? Do you drill the poly all the way though to the bar as well? Thanks!

The rear bar is not under tension, it's just tight.

Here's a recommendation on how to drill your rear grease fittings...

With everything installed and mounted up, you will need to have the truck on a lift or up in the air enough to get under the axle.
Use a 1/8" drill to put a hole in the mount brackets that cover the rubber mount. Pick the spot where the grease fitting needs to be. When the drill goes through the steel bracket, allow it to go into the rubber mount bushing to mark the spot. Take the brackets and rubber mounts off. Drill a 1/4" hole in the rubber mount using the 1/8" pilot hole so that the grease will go through the rubber mount to the bar. Drill and tap the steel brackets so that you can thread in the zero fittings. I like to use the 1/4 - 20 fittings. When you put it all back together, you should be in fine shape. Use a grease that is meant for poly bushings.

As for the squeaking issue..... I have similar issue with my SSR... I have tracked it down to the rear suspension control arms. It showed up after I did some degreasing on the rear suspension...... My own fault. I think the rubber mounts are giving up. I have bought several sets of BMR bars for my own use, but end up selling them before I can get them installed. Ya-hahahaha

Good luck,

Mike

[Shadowman]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

The rear bar is not under tension, it's just tight.

Here's a recommendation on how to drill your rear grease fittings...

With everything installed and mounted up, you will need to have the truck on a lift or up in the air enough to get under the axle.
Use a 1/8" drill to put a hole in the mount brackets that cover the rubber mount. Pick the spot where the grease fitting needs to be. When the drill goes through the steel bracket, allow it to go into the rubber mount bushing to mark the spot. Take the brackets and rubber mounts off. Drill a 1/4" hole in the rubber mount using the 1/8" pilot hole so that the grease will go through the rubber mount to the bar. Drill and tap the steel brackets so that you can thread in the zero fittings. I like to use the 1/4 - 20 fittings. When you put it all back together, you should be in fine shape. Use a grease that is meant for poly bushings.

As for the squeaking issue..... I have similar issue with my SSR... I have tracked it down to the rear suspension control arms. It showed up after I did some degreasing on the rear suspension...... My own fault. I think the rubber mounts are giving up. I have bought several sets of BMR bars for my own use, but end up selling them before I can get them installed. Ya-hahahaha

Good luck,

Mike

Thanks Mike, I don't think it's the rear suspension control arms as I had no noise until I had the ADDCO bars installed. My SSR only has 19K on it so maybe the rubber mounts just aren't old enough yet. I will run down and get a tap, I have the tap handle and the grease fittings. I will ask at NAPA about the type of grease to use. Thanks again...

[Mike in AZ]

Originally Posted by Shadowman

Thanks Mike, I don't think it's the rear suspension control arms as I had no noise until I had the ADDCO bars installed. My SSR only has 19K on it so maybe the rubber mounts just aren't old enough yet. I will run down and get a tap, I have the tap handle and the grease fittings. I will ask at NAPA about the type of grease to use. Thanks again...

You're welcome. Please let me know how it turns out.

Mike

[Shadowman]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

You're welcome. Please let me know how it turns out.

Mike

I followed your process step by step yesterday and it worked great. After I greased them I went for a ride. The squeaks are about 70% less. Maybe it will get better with time. They didn't have 1/4-20 fittings, so I used 1/4-28, they worked fine. The right side was no fun getting back on laying on my back, but I got it. Just a note for anyone else, the nuts are one time use, if you pull them off you need new nuts or do what I did and go with a big washer and a lock washer and utilize the old nut. You don't want those puppies coming off. Thanks again!

[Mike in AZ]

Originally Posted by Shadowman

I followed your process step by step yesterday and it worked great. After I greased them I went for a ride. The squeaks are about 70% less. Maybe it will get better with time. They didn't have 1/4-20 fittings, so I used 1/4-28, they worked fine. The right side was no fun getting back on laying on my back, but I got it. Just a note for anyone else, the nuts are one time use, if you pull them off you need new nuts or do what I did and go with a big washer and a lock washer and utilize the old nut. You don't want those puppies coming off. Thanks again!

You're right..... They are 1/4-28..... My bad. You can also get them in metric threads and pipe threads .

Glad yours is getting quiet. What grease did you use?

Mike

[Shadowman]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

You're right..... They are 1/4-28..... My bad. You can also get them in metric threads and pipe threads .

Glad yours is getting quiet. What grease did you use?

Mike

They recommended a NAPA chassis grease. It was light beige in color. He said it is used a lot in older cars for squeaks. Seemed to work o.k..

[river_rat]

Originally Posted by MCV

Installing ADDCO front bar Friday afternoon and woukd like to know about any problems I may run into. I have read that it is easier to install from the pasenger side and use new nuts. I have also read about squeaking from the bushings, do I just grease them when installed? Any input is appreciated

Will be installing my Addco front bar from Mike next week. As for the recommendation to replace the nuts, does anyone know off the top of their head what size those nuts are? Where we keep our R, there are no close by hardware or auto parts stores, so want to prepurchase this hardware prior to removal of the old bar.

Thanks

[Mike in AZ]

Originally Posted by river_rat

Will be installing my Addco front bar from Mike next week. As for the recommendation to replace the nuts, does anyone know off the top of their head what size those nuts are? Where we keep our R, there are no close by hardware or auto parts stores, so want to prepurchase this hardware prior to removal of the old bar.

Thanks

I'll get the info for you today on the nuts. I believe they are 12mm nylon locknuts with a built-in washer. Kinda special from GM, I think. If I can get a crossover to AC Delco, I'll start stocking the nuts and offering them on my web site....

Mike

[river_rat]

Replaced my front bar with the Addco bar this morning. Below are a few tips and notes.

Notes/Tips:
The Addco bar does not have the collars that prevent lateral (sideways) movement that the OEM had. Hopefully this won't cause any issues but after greasing the poly bushings and tightening I can slide the bar laterally at least 1/2 inch in each direction. I just reused my old nuts on the end links for now and will try to locate similar flange lock nuts to replace eventually.

Additional tools needed

• 21 mm wrench or socket (not included in a lot of sets) 13/16 will work but definitely a tight fit
• 7 mm allen wrench (also not in some basic sets)
• short socket extension (1 inch) or long swivel extension (not a universal joint) will allow easier access around the front lower A arm bolt for removing/tightening bushing bracket bolts with a normal 15 mm socket

Lastly, if you didn't pay attention to the direction of the sway bar as you cork screwed it out of its opening, the bar fits such that it dips downward in the center.

[mikebike]

When I was working with Polyethylene slide blocks in industrial applications we would lubricate the slides with spray graphite.

When I had the Addco bars installed last summer they were lubed with grahpite, I have never noticed any squeeks.

[abadssr]

Originally Posted by Achias

I let the pros do the front at the same time that they did the lowering springs. I added the grease fitting and they still squeaked a bit for a few weeks, but I haven't heard them since.

If you're going with the new sway bars for better handling, stick with the poly bushings - that's what they're for.

I agree if stock are more pliable that means they give and not hiding sway bar in position and then your not getting the full bang for your buck

[abadssr]

Originally Posted by Achias

I let the pros do the front at the same time that they did the lowering springs. I added the grease fitting and they still squeaked a bit for a few weeks, but I haven't heard them since.

If you're going with the new sway bars for better handling, stick with the poly bushings - that's what they're for.

I agree if stock are more pliable that means they give and not hiding sway bar in position and then your not getting the full bang for your buck does anyone know if they make a full set of poly bushings for the r

[Snsitiv]

Hope you guys don't mind a little input from a newbie... but I've been a racer for many years, and have done probably a hundred suspension rebuilds with that in mind.

Poly bushings... yes! The increased regidity of the new bar is only part of the improvement, the increase density of the poly bushings is perhaps 40% of the reduction in sway you're trying to get.

Do they squeak? Yes, but not if they're done correctly. I've used the graphite spray before (good suggestion), but I much prefer the silicone based poly bushing lube that usually ships with them. If you check the performance isle of you local parts store you sould find it. Usually in a small red container similar to a 35mm film cartridge, but also in squeeze tubes. I'll post up some of the more common brands if you're interested. This lube keeps the bushings from drying out due to the moisture/drying cycles they'll see under your R. I have several on my race car that are tapped with fittings (purchased this way), but I've never had to add additional grease. Energy Suspension bushing are sold in Auto Zone and have the fittings already in place, including the mounting bracket and hardware. You'll need the diameter of the new bar to get the right ones.

Now.... here's the real secret to eliminating the sqeak. If you tighten suspension components with the car in a raised or supported position, the 1st thing they do when you set it down is to try to twist into the new postion (compressed and lowered). No matter how much grease you add, they will always be under load, and prone to squeakage (lol). If you have a pit (most don't) leave all joints loose, roll the car over it, then tighten up all the suspension components. I cheat. Raise one end, remove tires on both sides, then support the hubs from underneath (be careful not to damage the discs, covers, or ball joints). I usually use a jack or block on each wheel with a piece of wood on top to soften the contact point. Lower car carefully onto the wheel supports until it's sitting just as it would when the tires are installed. Now the suspension is compressed to normal, and the tires are out of the way, so you reach all of the nuts/bolts that need to be tightened. Also, it's a pain, but use a torque wrench if at all possible and follow Chevy's specs.

I promise you will have the best riding and quietest SSR around.

[Snsitiv]

abadssr, I just noticed your question about poly bushing kits for the SSR. Not sure, but I did quick check of the Energy Suspension website Energy Suspension Parts Dealer, Specializing in Energy Suspension Bushings Suspension Components. and although they don't list the SSR, they do list every version of the Trailblazer. I'm betting the GM guys could tell us which set would work for us.

[abadssr]

That's the way to go thaks for checking

[xoxoxoBruce]

Originally Posted by Snsitiv

Hope you guys don't mind a little input from a newbie...

Hell no, everybody knows something I don't know.

[Shadowman]

Originally Posted by Snsitiv

Hope you guys don't mind a little input from a newbie... but I've been a racer for many years, and have done probably a hundred suspension rebuilds with that in mind.

Poly bushings... yes! The increased regidity of the new bar is only part of the improvement, the increase density of the poly bushings is perhaps 40% of the reduction in sway you're trying to get.

Do they squeak? Yes, but not if they're done correctly. I've used the graphite spray before (good suggestion), but I much prefer the silicone based poly bushing lube that usually ships with them. If you check the performance isle of you local parts store you sould find it. Usually in a small red container similar to a 35mm film cartridge, but also in squeeze tubes. I'll post up some of the more common brands if you're interested. This lube keeps the bushings from drying out due to the moisture/drying cycles they'll see under your R. I have several on my race car that are tapped with fittings (purchased this way), but I've never had to add additional grease. Energy Suspension bushing are sold in Auto Zone and have the fittings already in place, including the mounting bracket and hardware. You'll need the diameter of the new bar to get the right ones.

Now.... here's the real secret to eliminating the sqeak. If you tighten suspension components with the car in a raised or supported position, the 1st thing they do when you set it down is to try to twist into the new postion (compressed and lowered). No matter how much grease you add, they will always be under load, and prone to squeakage (lol). If you have a pit (most don't) leave all joints loose, roll the car over it, then tighten up all the suspension components. I cheat. Raise one end, remove tires on both sides, then support the hubs from underneath (be careful not to damage the discs, covers, or ball joints). I usually use a jack or block on each wheel with a piece of wood on top to soften the contact point. Lower car carefully onto the wheel supports until it's sitting just as it would when the tires are installed. Now the suspension is compressed to normal, and the tires are out of the way, so you reach all of the nuts/bolts that need to be tightened. Also, it's a pain, but use a torque wrench if at all possible and follow Chevy's specs.

I promise you will have the best riding and quietest SSR around.

When you say squeeze tubes, do you mean by hand or for a grease gun? I would buy some for a grease gun, but I'm not taking them off again to lube since I now have grease fittings installed. One other note, mine only squeak when it's cold, so if you live in a warm climate year round, you probably wouldn't notice it much. Also when I purchased my ADDCO bars, they told me to use the factory front bushings so I did. regards...

[bgetz]

Is a front end alignment recommended after this install?

[Snsitiv]

Shadowman... Mobil 1 / 12.5 oz. (354.369 g.) wheel bearings, chassis, suspension, universal joints synthetic grease Part Number: 110566 would be my suggestion. Avalible of the shelf at any Auto Zone dealer and probably a lot of others.

bgetz... Not if the only thing you are replacing is the sway bar. Bolts to frame faily rigid, but on flexble links to the control arms and should not change adjustment.

Stock bushings on an aftermarket bar? First time I've heard of that. Not saying you can't, in many cases they will work fine, but in most the aftermarket bar is larger in diameter so the bushing will bind or be impossibly hard to get into proper position. Was the bar you installed the same diameter as the stock one?

[Shadowman]

Originally Posted by Snsitiv

Shadowman... Mobil 1 / 12.5 oz. (354.369 g.) wheel bearings, chassis, suspension, universal joints synthetic grease Part Number: 110566 would be my suggestion. Avalible of the shelf at any Auto Zone dealer and probably a lot of others.

bgetz... Not if the only thing you are replacing is the sway bar. Bolts to frame faily rigid, but on flexble links to the control arms and should not change adjustment.

Stock bushings on an aftermarket bar? First time I've heard of that. Not saying you can't, in many cases they will work fine, but in most the aftermarket bar is larger in diameter so the bushing will bind or be impossibly hard to get into proper position. Was the bar you installed the same diameter as the stock one?

Yes, same diameter, but stronger/stiffer. At the time I bought them, Addco recommended I use the factory bushings in the front. That was a year plus ago, so maybe now they provide different front bushings or a different bar. The back came with the split poly bushings.

[Snsitiv]

Shadowman... you've given me a new project over the holiday weekend. I'm going to crawl under Blue for a while and look over the sway bars. Generally, aftermarket bars are larger diameter for additional stiffness (less sway) and hollow to save on weight. We all know the R could go on a serious diet. It might be time to work with some pals to engineer a better replacement.

[Mike in AZ]

Originally Posted by Snsitiv

Shadowman... you've given me a new project over the holiday weekend. I'm going to crawl under Blue for a while and look over the sway bars. Generally, aftermarket bars are larger diameter for additional stiffness (less sway) and hollow to save on weight. We all know the R could go on a serious diet. It might be time to work with some pals to engineer a better replacement.

There are two manufacturers of aftermarket sway bars. ADDCO and Hotchkiss. The ADDCO is a solid bar and the Hotchkiss is hollow. The OEM bar is hollow also.

If you are planning to re-engineer a new bar, I recommend you start with a Hotchkiss bar and go from there.

As far as weight goes..... the SSR (at 5,000 pounds) will probably not have a noticeable difference by adding 4 pounds to the weight of the vehicle. Personally, I would be more concerned about reducing the unsprung weight.

Mike

[Snsitiv]

Thanks Mike. I was aware of the Hotchkiss bar, but have not researched it in dept as yet. The ADDCO will be one I'll consider as well. I plan on modifying my suspension in the next few months, and this made me want to take a closer look at some options. It wouldn't be the first time I've manufactured a one-off sway bar to meet my needs. Where weight is concened, every ounce counts in breaking, acceleration, even gas milage, not just cornering. Remember, a 1% reduction in weight translates roughly the same as a 1% gain in horsepower, and usually is significantly cheaper (this from a guy that races a Honda with a pwr/wgt ratio better than a Z06). I'll say that your chasis stiffening add-ons will certainly be part of the upgrades though.

Messsing with unsprung weight has advantages in a competition vehicle, but sometimes the compromise is not worth it on a street car. I'll be using Blue primarily as an occasional driver and tow vehilce for the race car. I'll be resisting the urge to affect breaking or ride quality.

BTW: Does anybody know the OD on these two bars? My guess would be the truck needs a 1 to 1 1/8" OD hollow hardened steel bar (3/16 wall) with poly bushings and good set of end-links. I'll have to check the radius and off-set of all the bars necessary curves before I could be sure though.

[river_rat]

I was surprised that Addco did not include any grease for the poly bushings, so I just used some of the GM Special Lubricant that I have for my Tahoe driveshaft. It is a PTFE filled non melting grease so should be fine. I greased the bushings when I installed the bar a few weeks back and no squeaks. Got my new tires installed today so had some fun in the corners on the way home. What a difference in cornering over the OEM bar. Wishin' I was still in Colorado so I could be having some fun up Rist or Clear Crk canyons. Oh wait, it is wintertime up there. Strike that thought......