Jumper Box Replacement

Topspin · 09-20-2011, 09:04 PM

In that I spend some time, messing around under the hood, I decided to replace the flimsy plastic jumper box with a master cut-off switch. Now, I no longer have to fool around with pulling a battery cable. I went with the severe duty Moroso switch that has a 300 amp continuous rating, and a Jegs charging terminal. I wired the charging terminal to the hot side of the switch so I can still access 12 volt power or hook my battery tender there. Not much to comment on here, just the parts mentioned, the mounting plate I hacked out of some scrap aluminum, the jumper wire to the charging terminal, and the mounted assembly. I didn't get a very favorable photo angle, in the engine compartment, as it actually fits the fender contour a little better than shown here. My photography skills are on a level with my computer skills - not something I'll ever brag about!

xoxoxoBruce · 09-20-2011, 09:26 PM

Nice job. So the cables that used to hook up in the box, now hook up to the back of the switch behind the plate?

eric-mpd · 09-21-2011, 06:26 AM

Having disconnected battery cables on SSR's as much as I have, this will be a mod my R will have to have!

Thank you for sharing your great ideas with us

Focks · 09-21-2011, 06:30 AM

Great Idea, now just put the kits together with directions and pictures and I'll be your first customer.

YellowDZH · 09-21-2011, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focks

Great Idea, now just put the kits together with directions and pictures and I'll be your first customer.

I will be your second customer. Great idea because I have had to disconnect me battery at a few indoor car shows and it is a pain to do so in that jump box. This would make it easy. Good job.

Ed's-Red-05 · 09-21-2011, 07:04 AM

You did a very nice job of "hacking out the aluminum plate" - it looks great!
But, for jump starting the truck - the wire from the switch to the terminal is undersized.
The wire should be the same rating as the original cable from the battery.
An alternative instillation would be to install the aluminum plate with just the Jegs insulated terminal - no cutoff switch.

xoxoxoBruce · 09-21-2011, 10:43 AM

Good point on the jump starting, but the cut off switch is a definite asset. I just put one on my '57, which has the battery in the trunk, this week

Topspin · 09-21-2011, 11:26 AM

Thanks, for the kind words everyone.

Yep Bruce, you just have to open up the cable ends slightly to fit the 1/2" studs on the switch.

Hey Ed's, you're certainly correct concerning the cable size. As I stated, I'm just using it for charging or using a 12 volt trouble light. I debated running "0" cable, but decided to just run the 10 ga. for my needs. I always carry a 10mm wrench to open the battery panel in the rear, and that also works for the new switch panel. So, in seconds, I can access the switch cables if need be for forward jumping capability. I really looked at the larger ( even bought the lugs @ $2.00 a piece ) cable, but it's somewhat confined work space behind the panel and I took the easy way out as it accomplishes what I wanted.

I'm just throwing the idea out there, and anyone that wants to run with it, feel free.

Focks · 09-21-2011, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topspin

Thanks, for the kind words everyone.

Yep Bruce, you just have to open up the cable ends slightly to fit the 1/2" studs on the switch.

Hey Ed's, you're certainly correct concerning the cable size. As I stated, I'm just using it for charging or using a 12 volt trouble light. I debated running "0" cable, but decided to just run the 10 ga. for my needs. I always carry a 10mm wrench to open the battery panel in the rear, and that also works for the new switch panel. So, in seconds, I can access the switch cables if need be for forward jumping capability. I really looked at the larger ( even bought the lugs @ $2.00 a piece ) cable, but it's somewhat confined work space behind the panel and I took the easy way out as it accomplishes what I wanted.

I'm just throwing the idea out there, and anyone that wants to run with it, feel free.

Mike??? I've got something SHINY for you to mess with!

REBEL · 09-21-2011, 01:34 PM

TOPSPIN This is a cure for those with superchargers. The intercooler bottle is mounted overlaping the factory jump box.

I have a disconnect back at the battery box. Think I need to do this also.

twooldfarmers · 09-27-2011, 09:15 AM

Thanks TopSpin, given how often I have to be on the ground under the R disconnecting the battery to 'reboot' the system so the solenoid will energize I ordered the parts. I will get this mod done before it goes away for the winter. For many us in this region it may not be all that far away. Last year it was mid October and it never went away after that.

Topspin · 09-27-2011, 04:52 PM

Hey Richard, you're certainly Welcome and definitely right about the need to reboot the system - that cures a whole bunch of ills! I know it cured a speedo issue for me.

One thing that did surface, as I was fooling with this switch and frequently disconnecting the power, was the function of the window indexing. Usually, after the power interruption, the window indexing retained it's proper function. One time however, it definitely did not and I have no explanation for it. So, I guess the smart thing is to always re-index your windows after a power interruption, to be safe.

twooldfarmers · 10-20-2011, 09:27 AM

OK I have the frame brace done/painted/installed, cut out switch done so what is our next project that you are going to come up with their topspin??

good thing I got started early on rounding up parts, it took over a month for those Moroso terminals to show up in my mail box. Living in the boon's has it advantages but sometimes ....

I used some 3/4 x 1 1/2 .185 wall rectangular tubing which I happened to have out back on the metal rack. It made a stout but not to heavy replacement for that ridiculous piece of OEM pipe. GM may as well as saved their $1.38 or whatever it cost to stamp that out, jeesh!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topspin

Hey Richard, you're certainly Welcome and definitely right about the need to reboot the system - that cures a whole bunch of ills! I know it cured a speedo issue for me.

One thing that did surface, as I was fooling with this switch and frequently disconnecting the power, was the function of the window indexing. Usually, after the power interruption, the window indexing retained it's proper function. One time however, it definitely did not and I have no explanation for it. So, I guess the smart thing is to always re-index your windows after a power interruption, to be safe.

RLCulster · 10-20-2011, 11:01 AM

Howdy Topspin:
I too built a simple plate to have a cut-off switch instead of the cheezy plastic box. I choose the "Flaming river" Deluxe switch (check their website). It has a really nice switch with a removable "key" that can be pulled and it doubles as a anti-theft cutoff if your out traveling or hanging around suspect areas (We'd never do that, right?) anyway it has served me well for several years now.
RLCulster
P.S. It's called a "Big Switch with Key" cut-off switch. (Flamingriver.com)

Topspin · 10-20-2011, 07:26 PM

Man Richard, for an "old farmer" you're awfully ambitious!

I'd love see to see the chassis brace you made, with the rectangular tubing. If you took any pics maybe you could post them in the other thread so people could see some options that are out there? What did you think of the new road feel? I was surprised too at the flimsy original single bar. Mine was even bent just from the stamping of the part# in it!

The most immediate item on my plate might not interest many here. I'm heading out to the strip, either this weekend or next and driveshaft loops are on my mind, having a six speed. I'd be satisfied with just a front for now, as that presents the greatest danger, but because of the close proximity of the shaft to the plastic gas tank I may end up making two. I'm actually thinking they might be made to mount to the chassis brace we've both made. I just haven't really looked closely into it yet. What's your feeling about that possibility? Any type of U-joint failure might turn the R into an inferno. I'll only be running my street tires, and I have a good Dynotech driveshaft with new U-joints, so I'm not terribly concerned for now. But, if I get some sticky tires, I will not run it without safety loops.

Topspin · 10-20-2011, 07:40 PM

Hi RL, I looked at that Flaming River switch too, as I think all their products are top notch. The only reason I went with the Moroso was the slightly higher continuous amp rating. And you know the more I thought about using it for theft control, the more I wondered if you really could with the darn indexing windows. If you shut the battery down and locked the hood all the way, you could possibly damage the door seals getting in to release the hood. Even if you left the hood open, it seems that there are times the window indexing gets lost from power disruption. So, I gave up on worrying about it, as theft prevention, and just bought the most robust thing out there. Did the F R switch have 1/2" terminals on it?

"BLACKIE" · 10-23-2011, 02:50 PM

I like your idea there Topspin

......

As Rebel stated...... This can help out owners with a supercharger installed. On my rig as others from what I've seen, the red box is moved out of the way and is bolted back inplace with just one bolt and is at a weird angle and is cramped in between the water pump for the intercoller and the coolant tank for the intercooler

. I'm building one out of cardboard that will be made out of 32 gauge steal when I'm done with moving all of that clutter in that area and I'm happy with it's mounting location

With the pump/tank taking up the useable space, a flat plate mount that you have built will just not work.... as much as I wish it could, it just won't

. I went with the Flamming River switch with key.....

..... with the addition of Mike's pusher fan, intercooler water pump and the transmission cooling fan, I've opted to a 200amp alternator over the stock 145 amp model. The Flamming River switch is rated @ 250 amp countinuous, which is still way over kill. What I like about the Flamming River switch besides the removable key feature, is that the switch is WATERPROOF unlike the Moroso unit. The Moroso unit is a nice unit, I have one in the trunk of my CHEVY II hooked up to the NEGATIVE side of the battery. Like many SSR owners here, my "II" dosen't go out in the rain

But..... My SSR loves the rain and that's why I went with the waterproof offering from Flamming River.

BLACKIE

Topspin · 10-23-2011, 08:59 PM

Thanks Blackie. I hope you'll post some pics, when you're done, as your projects are always well thought out and nicely constructed. It's nice to throw some options out there for different applications. My part is kind of primitive, but it can be made by anyone at home with basic hand tools. All you really need is a saber saw or hacksaw, rat tail and flat file, and 3/8 drill and bits.