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Old 05-07-2006, 07:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Mobil 1 Oil & Filter

I know we have had a lot of talk on Mobil 1. I didn't see anything on my question. So any thoughts on this. My SSR has been in the garage 6 months. I go out about every 3 weeks to start it and bring it up to 210 Temp. I have about 800 miles on the oil and 7 months. My first oil and filter change was at 800 miles. 1600 miles on the truck now. When would you think I should change it again? Thanks
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Old 05-07-2006, 07:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd go for annually, or when the DIC says 10%.... whichever comes first. At your use rate, that will be an annual oil change. My mom bought a Silverado Stepside about 4 years ago and now has 2100 miles on it. It's now out of warranty and she has the oil changed every 6 months..... I can't seem to stop her.

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Old 05-07-2006, 07:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would say every 5,000 miles would be just fine. Thats about how many miles I will be adding to my clock each year so once a year is about right for me too,
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Old 05-07-2006, 03:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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First move...

Here in Cali we drive ours all year long. There's no such thing as changing your oil to much...
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Old 05-07-2006, 08:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in AZ
I'd go for annually, or when the DIC says 10%.... whichever comes first. At your use rate, that will be an annual oil change.


The owner's manual should specificy an oil change when indicated by the Oil Life Monitor, or annually whichever comes first. As Mike mentioned, in your case annually will come first. If you don't change the oil and have a problem, you could be looking at a warranty fight. I'd change it at the 12 month point as the owner's manual specifies.
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Old 05-07-2006, 08:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I change my oil on the SSR and Motorcycles after I bring them out of storage, even if it needs it or not. Just to be on the safe side. Start the new season with fresh oil.
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donaldj624
I change my oil on the SSR and Motorcycles after I bring them out of storage, even if it needs it or not. Just to be on the safe side. Start the new season with fresh oil.
Just wondering, do you put it in storage with clean motor oil so it isn't camping out for months with the contaminates in used oil?

Ski p
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Old 05-08-2006, 05:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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oil

Always change to clean oil before storage. after storage will put about 250 miles on it then ghange it again, I think this will help to get that condensate out after sitting all winter here Mi.
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Old 05-08-2006, 03:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Coltfanatic: It's your money and your SSR but that seems too often. I put mine away with fresh oil and filter. It sat inside covered up from Oct. until yesterday, 5-7-06. I use a battery tender so it fired up perfectly. Oil checks full and looks very clean. Mobil #1 is my oil. I don't see a need to change for several thousand miles. Besides I have a problem with using Iraq oil, I hope they have to drink it someday.
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Old 05-11-2006, 07:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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$$$Oil Change$$$$$

Wow,

Just got my first oil change that I had to pay for, dealer covered the first one for free, and got sticker shock when Jiffy Lube charged me $77.00. Ouch!! I guess I will be doing my own from now on, but how low should I go using the Engine Oil Life" gage? This is my full time vehicle so it gets driven most days. Also, I'm sure this is in the manual, but how do you reset the Engine Oil clock after an oil change.

Thanks,
MDSPHOTO
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Old 05-12-2006, 08:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDSPHOTO
Wow,

Just got my first oil change that I had to pay for, dealer covered the first one for free, and got sticker shock when Jiffy Lube charged me $77.00. Ouch!! I guess I will be doing my own from now on, but how low should I go using the Engine Oil Life" gage? This is my full time vehicle so it gets driven most days. Also, I'm sure this is in the manual, but how do you reset the Engine Oil clock after an oil change.

Thanks,
MDSPHOTO
I take my wife's Chevy Trailblazer right down to near 0% oil life remaining. In my Vette I changed it at about 50% before turning it into a track day only car. I feel its safe to take it to 0%, but each person will find their own comfort level.

To reset the Oil Life Monitor, select the oil life and press and hold reset, or turn the car to the on position (but don't start it) and press the gas pedal three times quickly.
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Old 05-12-2006, 09:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDSPHOTO
Wow,

Jiffy Lube
Brave sole. I wouldn't let them change the oil in my lawn mower. I, as many, have had a Jiffy Lube experience.
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CQQL_SSR
Brave sole. I wouldn't let them change the oil in my lawn mower. I, as many, have had a Jiffy Lube experience.

I actually saw a bumper sticker that said " Friends don't let friends go to Jiffy Lube"
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Old 05-15-2006, 05:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Just change it!


It cost 50 bucks to change the oil and 50 bucks to fill the gas tank to go for a days drive, you do the math, what does it matter how many times you change it as long as your changing it!
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Old 05-17-2006, 05:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm very curious, I use Mobile one in some of my vehicles, the ones "on the road" however I have NEVER been able to document Mobile One or anyother synthetic is a rust prohibitor, which we all know Oil is..

What brought up this question in my mind, which led to a lot of seeking info which has yet to be found, it this. I changed to synthetic in a full sized custom van which just sits till we want to go someplace and have room to monkey around or haul stuff.

After about eight months and a very few to the store and back jaunts and startups to keep the battery alive. I checked the synthetic, it had gone from golden to rust red color on the stick.. Hey Buddy, I immediatly changed my semi stored vehicles to a blend..

Not sure at all that synthetic has a single rust preventive quality, though it's great in my everyday vehicle.. chicago
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I change my oil alot within the first 3000 miles then every 3000 miles after that. I have never had an issue with any of my Chevrolet Engines (Even when they say they are supposed to burn some oil like the Z06). I have done this with my 1999 Z28, 2002 C5 Z06, 2004 Silverado SS and now the 2005 SSR. I started doing oil changes like this years ago when I first started building engines. The oil in my SSR right now is just 500 miles from the 6000 mile change and it still looks brand new. I have had the Valve covers off this week and everything looks brand new. I always use Mobile 1 Synthetic oils too.

1st Oil Change - 500 miles
2nd Oil Change - 1500 miles
3rd Oil Change - 3000 miles
Every 3000 miles after this
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chicago
Not sure at all that synthetic has a single rust preventive quality, though it's great in my everyday vehicle.. chicago
Chicago,
Most synthetics do not have a rust preventative quality.

AMSOIL's motorcycle oils are designed to prevent rust as can be seen on the test photos in on this link to my dealer website:
AMSOIL SAE 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil

AMSOIL just came out with a new product for stored vehicles of all types though:
AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:45 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I have a friend who uses your products, and is happy with them. I've got 27 years of using teflon oil additives. I've read all the negitive "theorist" but every single person I know who used it, continues to use it. I have it in every single engine I own save the bike due to the wet clutch..
Without long discourse, I can tell you it's absolutely, positively saved my engines on several occasions. A single example, I was using the bike for work all summer, the wive and kid were using the cars. Our Chevette, a four quart engine came in the garage while I was home between trips and I could hear it knocking and banging inside the house. Checked the oil, it took TWO quarts to hit the dipstick. I filled it, ran it a short while and changed the oil again. That was at around 60k, it never burned a drop, never showed any ill effects. At 104k he smacked a deer and the mechanic who had torn it down to grind the valves due to a broken timing belt and attempting to push start it, bought it for 800 bucks for the engine, he said he was just in there and it was perfect. The body was beyond saving...
I only use those that carry the dupont name, IF, I can find that, if not I use the original brand name.. A buick should have been killed twice in simular extreme over heating episodes and was sold at 140k....
Ya, can't argue success with theory, never had an "individual" a "real person" tell anything but good experiences.. Read a few "stories" on the net, just junk made up to support theory I believe..
Now to your product, when my buddy the real motorhead has wrung it out for me, I'm open to change and I'll go by his experience. My father in law was selling slick fifty back when it was 50 bucks a quart and I ignored him until his vehicles went wayyyy beyond others of the same class did, then I bought some from somebody else.. Hmmm, maybe I have a charactor flaw.. lol...
If buddy boy say's your product pans out you can bet I'll be right in there too.. Good Luck in your endeavors and thanks for the information. I was pretty certain that color in the oil was rust red, it was a no brainer to simply put a blend in it...
I drive them all to death, period. I only sold one car in my life to another person, the rest went to the kids to the junk dealer.. Chicago
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The cheapest oil changes in Missouri are at the GMC or Chevrolet Dealers themselves.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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My dealer charges $68 for an oil change with Mobile 1. I have learned though that if the oil is still clean when you take it out then it has NOT done it's job yet. I change mine at the 3k mark and it is usually dirty to an extent...

Jiffy Lube... NO WAY.. They like to install the drain plugs with an air wrench down here... Try to take it off by hand..If it isn't stripped out already...

Good Luck...
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Old 05-25-2006, 03:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I just passed 1100 on my '06 here in rough and tumble DUSTY Vegas..think I'll change at 1500..cheap insurance..get to goof off at the dealership for a minute too.....when I get to 3K probably every 2k after that.

PS.. would you guys ever run a synthetic in an older 305 140K (no smoke or drips) runs strong..just did the "Jiffy" job (10/30 ? who knows) still got my drainplug though..

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Old 05-27-2006, 10:21 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Chicago,
When or if you decide to try AMSOIL, drop me a PM or an email so I can explain the benefits of the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program to you.

As for oil additives, all the major oil companies, including both AMSOIL and Mobil 1 do not recommend their use as the additives may actually interact negatively with the additives already in the oil. As you may or may not know, Slick 50 was sued by the FTC due to unsubstantiated claims and Slick 50 lost:
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/12/petapp62.97.htm

Here is another FTC suit against additive companies for unsubstantiated claims:
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm

Based on the above info, I'm a little leary of any additive companies claims, including those claiming to use Teflon. :
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Old 05-29-2006, 08:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CashSax
I just passed 1100 on my '06 here in rough and tumble DUSTY Vegas..think I'll change at 1500..cheap insurance..get to goof off at the dealership for a minute too.....when I get to 3K probably every 2k after that.

PS.. would you guys ever run a synthetic in an older 305 140K (no smoke or drips) runs strong..just did the "Jiffy" job (10/30 ? who knows) still got my drainplug though..


2 things: On the later question; NO! It is not advisable AT ALL to switch at that milage. Going to synthetic in he begining of an engines life is OK, but not that late in the game. John Dejobornjonson (car expert) or what ever his name is, fielded the exact same question. He of course said no.

THe other thing is here we go again on the oil change stuff. 3000 to soon. I do mine about every 1500 miles the first few times during break in, then strech out to the oil life monitior. Please read this great thred on oil, then change your mind on this misconception of the 3000 mile oil change; save your money:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:46 AM   #24 (permalink)
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kk thanks for the response..I did hear somewhere the older engines don't like synth..I'll follow your suggestion after my change at 3000..

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Old 05-30-2006, 05:47 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk7ac
2 things: On the later question; NO! It is not advisable AT ALL to switch at that milage. Going to synthetic in he begining of an engines life is OK, but not that late in the game.


[

And what exactly would it hurt to switch to Synthetics at 140k? I have a Jeep that is getting it's first oil change from me today and it will have synthetic oil in it at 145k miles. This is my beater so I don't have to run the miles up on my SSR..

Please do not say it is going to leak oil from the seals because this myth has been proven wrong...
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:28 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I use the Mobil lube express store, out in ten mins and $58.00 for the SSR and my Corvette. The dealer is $55.00 but I dont like waiting. Dont change to Synthetic in the 305ci engine, I have about 150k on my 1985 Monte Carlo SS and she purrs with regular Quaker state and some Slick 50. I also highly recommend installing a magnet cover around the oil filter, they are cheap and can be transferred to the new oil filter at an oil change and the junk stays in the filter can thrown away.

Last edited by Beach potato; 05-30-2006 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:45 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted
And what exactly would it hurt to switch to Synthetics at 140k? I have a Jeep that is getting it's first oil change from me today and it will have synthetic oil in it at 145k miles. This is my beater so I don't have to run the miles up on my SSR..

Please do not say it is going to leak oil from the seals because this myth has been proven wrong...

No, I wont say it will leak because I too have heard that. But then again, I dont know if that is indeed true or not. I wont dispute it. Tom (from Americas Car Show) said the main reason was the "thickness" of the dino-juice was keeping the engine intact and that if a switch was made, it could "loosen up". Mind you, the car in question was like a 1990 Ford Escort that had like 400,000 miles with no problems running conventional dino oil (no major problems, not buring oil, etc.). The owner simply wanted to furthur protect his engine by switching over to syn. Tom said just the opposit would happen. Plus, not to mention the fact that "you have gone 400,000 miles so far, its apperantly working, why switch now"?

The bottom line as he closed the segment was cars that start out with or manufacure recommended syn. oil should stay syn. It (syn.) IS superiour to conventional in nearly every manner and should be selected over conventional everytime for the exception (of course) for engines that have "high miles"......note he did not specify a mileage, just "high mileage". For a Jaguar, that could be 45,000 miles!! So who knows.

I have used syn. for about 10 years now on 6 different vehicles. I like going 7000, 8000 or even 9000+ miles between changes; even that is probably to soon. Now with both of my vehicles on GM Generation III OBDS, I go until DIC oil life (after several break-in changes) hits 0%.


PS -on the magnet thing on the filter, that is a great old trick I've used since my first car in High School....I used an old CB radio mag. mount antenna for the magnet to place on the bottom of the filter. I see some sold for like $70+.....go to a garage sale and buy an old mag. mount antenna for $5, dismantle it, and stick it on the filter.

Last edited by kk7ac; 05-30-2006 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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With my last oil change on the 305 I used conventional Dino oil 10-30 and a bottle of Dura-Lube..My Camaro came to me at 135K and with a Slick 50 sticker on the windshield..Car still runs like new.
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Old 05-30-2006, 09:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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OK -I found some of the info I was talking about (from Americas car show.com): Please note a few things that are mentioned that I have found numerous other sources to be contrary to the following;

"Longer change intervals: 5,000 - 7,000 miles between oil changes"

..Ua, ya -GM oil life can go up to (in my last oil change in my 04" Yukon) almost 9,000 miles. 5,000 - 7,000 would be on the low side.

"nor do I recommend using it in new engines during the break-in period"

This has been brought up more than a several times on this and many other auto sites I have seen or been a member of. The bottom line: using syn during "break-in" is fine. The only thing, which I know is true (I'll tell you in a minute) and is said here as well, is a longer break-in period. My 04 Yukon (using Mobile 1 syn. since its first oil change at 1500 miles) did not break-in until about 14,000 miles. I know this because I was on a cross county trip getting about 16 MPH on the HWY and 14 in town. After that I now get 17.2-17.8 MPG town and 19.5 HWY (4.8 liter). This was also the case in 2 other cars I had in the past that I ran syn. in.
All engines will eventually break-in; just takes longer running synthetic.

Plus -what about the cars that come with and recommend synthetic? -- What you dont use synthetic until XXXX miles?! -Come-on. Its fine even for break-in.

"It flows easier in cold weather, therefore no loss of prime when the oil is cold. "

True. Also he fails to state that it flows "easiest" in the heat. I go against manuf. recommendations on both my vehicles that "recommend" 5W 30 oil weight. I live in Arizona. I use and have always used 10W 30..... a little more weight for us here in the 110 degree days helps. So all of you in the hot climate should also consider going up to a 10W if running a 5W now.

Anyway, enuff about me here it is:

Should I use synthetic oil in my car?
That depends on the vehicle's age, mileage, and the carmaker's recommendations for engine lubricants. Older vehicles with high mileage tend to have excessive mechanical wear in the engine, allowing for internal oil leakage. On vehicles with high mileage, it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil because it is thin and very free flowing, and use of it does (more often than not) result in internal oil combustion. I used full synthetic oil in a Plymouth Neon. After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied and the consumption stopped. I logged another 30K miles and sold it. It's still running with over 200K miles today and it doesn't burn oil. Carmakers use full synthetics and semi synthetics in some of their engines today. In most cases, you will find that a synthetic lubricant is used when there's a high performance engine with tight engine tolerances, high compression, and high operating temperatures. Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch).

Does it work better in some cars than others?
As I stated earlier, some carmakers recommend only using synthetic oil in their engines. For instance, Chevy recommends the use of Mobil One full synthetic oil in its new generation Chevy Corvette engine. I have used synthetic oil in all of my vehicles for the last six years with great results, with one exception. I didn't use a full synthetic in my Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC V-6. Ford specifies using a 5W20 semi synthetic due to engine design, so I followed the manufacturer's specification. Remember, before changing to synthetic oil, check with your dealer on carmaker's recommendations. As stated earlier, you could void the warranty.

What are the pros and cons of using synthetic oil in my car?
Pros:

It flows easier in cold weather, therefore no loss of prime when the oil is cold. Also, it is highly resistant to viscosity breakdown (the ability of the oil to flow easily in all temps) from heat, friction, chemical contaminants.

Longer change intervals: 5,000 - 7,000 miles between oil changes (compared to 3,000 for regular oil). Some folks have documented up to 25K miles between changes. However, I would not advice going that long!
Cons:

Cost is twice as much as conventional oil per quart. However it lasts longer, so the actual cost increase is closer to 50 - 60 percent.

Flows easily, therefore not recommend for use on high mileage engines; nor do I recommend using it in new engines during the break-in period because it is so slippery and dramatically limits the wearing of new mating parts within the engine. This initial wearing of parts is what makes for proper engine break-in, sealing of piston rings, mating of camshafts and lifters, etc.

Does it make my engine last longer?
Yes, because its so slippery, synthetic makes for less engine wear and thus greater engine longevity.

Last edited by kk7ac; 05-30-2006 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kk7ac
No, I wont say it will leak because I too have heard that. But then again, I dont know if that is indeed true or not. I wont dispute it. Tom (from Americas Car Show) said the main reason was the "thickness" of the dino-juice was keeping the engine intact and that if a switch was made, it could "loosen up".
Have you listened to his show lately. Tom discovered AMSOIL ealier this year and AMSOIL is now a sponsor of his show. You can see a link to a consortium of dealers on his website. Tom actually had the founder and owner of AMSOIL on his show earlier this year. I'm betting he wouldn't answer that question the same way now.

My feeling on synthetic oils in older engines is... depends.

As I've said before, all synthetics are not created equally so I feel it inappropriate to lump them all into the same catagory when discussing topics such as this.

The API has not come out and defined what is "synthetic", but rather, classified oils into five major groups.

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity. Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes. AMSOIL XL Motor Oils, Castrol Syntec and many others fall into this category.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Motor Oils and Mobil 1 primarily use group IV basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III.

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not full into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. Redline uses an ester basestock.

In the 90s, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a Group III, highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil, instead of a chemically synthesized (group IV or V) basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided in Castrol's favor. As a result, any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can be marketed as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) is much more expensive than the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins.

When discussing whether a synthetic is viable for an older engine, I'd ask what group before beginning the discussion. I feel the group is important due to its impact on the engines seals. In general, synthetics (all groups) will have higher levels of detergents than conventional oils. These detergents will clean out the sludge in the motor, potentially exposing old dried out seals to fresh oil causing leaks.

- PAO basestock causes engine seals to shrink slightly. Ester basestock causes seals to swell slightly. As a result, in the early days of synthetics, seal leakage was common and led to the widely held view today that synthetics will cause seal leaks. However, AMSOIL has been blending synthetics for over 30 years now and today they use a basestock that is predominantly PAO based, but with an ester additive which counteracts the seal shrinkage of the PAO resulting in a very slight seal swelling to help correct minor leaks due to dried out seals as they become reoiled. For that reason I'd be perfectly comfortable using synthetic in a car with 140k on the clock.

However, if I changed over at this mileage, I'd suggest using the AMSOIL Engine Flush first, and I wouldn't run the first oil change very long to help get all the sludge the synthetic will clean up out of the engine.

Last edited by Subdriver; 06-04-2006 at 08:03 PM.
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