Just got back from a long evening at SAR (San Antonio Raceway) Track conditions were good but the air was not. Was 79 degrees and humid as hell. On my third run of the night I ran a 13.42 at 101.24. This is without any power adders. Some computer tuning, exhaust and a converter that's it. I'll post more later if anyone's interested. A jpg of the time slip is attached.
And before any of you point it out, YES I did red-light this guy pretty bad. I'd been watching him run consistent 11.90's all night. I did not want to draw him, but that's the way it worked out. I knew I was about to have my a$$ handed to me so I ambushed him at the tree. After all, I'm just an old street racer at heart and I hate to look bad in front of a crowd. He still beat me, but I made it look way closer than it really was. Afterwards he even came over and said how surprised he was that it was that close. When he gets home and looks at his time slip closely I'm sure he'll figure it out.
__________________
2005 Slingshot Yellow 1SB No 16549 - 12.74 et @ 105.36
2000 Silverado 5.3 Step-Side PU - Daily Driver
1957 Chevy BelAir Street Rod - 10.65 et
If you don't red light you are not trying you know that, Good run for the heat, I hope to have mine back at the track Weds. and get that 12 I have been looking for,
My SSR: Silver '05 6-speed, 4.10 gears, Flowmaster, Lakester Wheels, Ground Force springs
Quote:
Originally Posted by AusTexKid
Just got back from a long evening at SAR (San Antonio Raceway) Track conditions were good but the air was not. Was 79 degrees and humid as hell. On my third run of the night I ran a 13.42 at 101.24. This is without any power adders. Some computer tuning, exhaust and a converter that's it. I'll post more later if anyone's interested. A jpg of the time slip is attached.
And before any of you point it out, YES I did red-light this guy pretty bad. I'd been watching him run consistent 11.90's all night. I did not want to draw him, but that's the way it worked out. I knew I was about to have my a$$ handed to me so I ambushed him at the tree. After all, I'm just an old street racer at heart and I hate to look bad in front of a crowd. He still beat me, but I made it look way closer than it really was. Afterwards he even came over and said how surprised he was that it was that close. When he gets home and looks at his time slip closely I'm sure he'll figure it out.
AusTexKid,
Well done. I am impressed. What tires were you running? Stock gearing?
SSRRev
thats excellent and very encouraging time. In the truck world it puts a n/a SSR in a drivers race with a s/c Ford Lightning and a Dodge SRT 10 and in the car world, a mustang GT, a C5, or a BMW m3
First off, the truck. It's a 2005 auto with 3700 miles. If what some have reported is true, I have not yet put enough miles on to get out of the "break in" program. I don't know if there really is such a program, but enough people have reported a power increase between 4000 and 5000 miles that I wonder. I guess we'll see soon.
The modifications. It has the K&N Aircharger kit which for me was good for 2 tenths. I recommend this as a first modification on all 05-06's. The exhaust is a Magnaflow cat-back. Stock manifolds, cats and Y-pipe. The converter is a Yank SS3600. I ran stock 3.73 gearing and the factory Goodyear tires at 25psi hot. As far as the tuning goes, I started with the Predator 93 octane tune and adapted it to my SSR using a G-Tec and my AutoTap logging software. I was conservative on the air-fuel ratio because I don't have a wideband O2 sensor yet. There is probably more there. As on all my Gen III motors, I am running a 160 thermostat and lowered fan temps. These motors are very temperature sensitive and cooler is definitely better. To that end I have also removed the factory engine cover. You would not believe the difference in intake manifold temperature before and after. (unless you try it yourself) The transmission is untouched. I don't have the means yet to program the TCM (thanks DiabloSport )and TransGo says it will be May or so before they have a reprogramming kit for the 4L65. For now, a larger cooler is urgently needed.
The conditions. As I said before, it was hot and humid. We drove down about an hour in 5:00 Austin traffic with the AC on, so the truck was pretty hot when we got there. I had about 3/8 tank of 93 octane gas. The line was short in staging, so I went ahead and got in line. I made a total of 4 passes.
Run 1: Drove around the water and did a couple of dry hops to clean the tires. Lined up and ran a tire-smoking 13.82 @ 99.23. Water temp was about 220 when I got to the line. Truck felt sluggish and I thought I heard it rattle at the top of 2nd gear. So I went over to the fuel depot and put in 3 gallons of VP 103 octane unleaded race gas. ($7.00 a gallon ) I drove around a bit to mix the gas and cool down.
Run 2: Lowered the tire pressure to 25psi hot and headed to the staging lanes. Water temp was still 220 when I lined up. Did a serious smokey burnout to heat the tires, but this proved to be a mistake. The stress of overcoming both traction and the brakes heated the transmission quite a bit. Lined up and ran. Traction was much better but I felt the tranny shudder on the gear changes. Ran 13.67 @ 99.87. On the return road, I knew something was wrong. The tranny was really sloppy.
Run 3: I know what a hot tranny feels like so I parked it it in the pits with the hood up and went to watch some racing. After an hour of cool-down time I went to check on her. By this time a cool front had started to come in and the temp at the track had dropped. The water temp was back down to the 180-200 I'm used to seeing and the air was better too. The trans felt normal again so I went on a short cruise to finish cooling down. Then I lined up again. We pushed it in the staging lanes with the hood up until it was our turn. I drove around the water again, did a MODERATE burn out and went. Water temp was about 200 this time. This pass, both traction and the trans felt good and I went 13.42 @ 101.24.
Run 4: By this time it was getting late so I had to get back in line if I wanted another pass (I did). We again pushed it in staging and got to the line with the water temp at 210+. I knew I had not had sufficient cool-down so I drove around the water, did 2 dry hops and staged. The traction was marginal without a burn-out, but the trans seemed happy. Ran 13.56 @ 100.81.
Conclusions: Well, the first thing that jumped out at me was that I need a WAY better trans cooler. A manual switch for the cooling fan would be nice too. The second thing was the almost direct correlation between water temp and et. We're talking about a total difference of about 25-30 degrees in water temp making maybe 3 tenths difference in et. This is significant. If I had brought my laptop with the logging software I would have data regarding timing retard vs temperature, but alas it was forgotten in the mad scramble to get to the track after work Friday. It would seem that maybe the timing retard vs temperature table is particularly aggressive on the LS2 because it is a high compression engine (10.9:1) forced to run crappy 93 octane gas. Also of interest is the fact that I DID remember to bring my G-Tec along and set it before every run. I have 4 direct comparisons between actual track times and G-Tec reported times. Anyone care to guess how close it was?
__________________
2005 Slingshot Yellow 1SB No 16549 - 12.74 et @ 105.36
2000 Silverado 5.3 Step-Side PU - Daily Driver
1957 Chevy BelAir Street Rod - 10.65 et
Keep it up, Wish there were more or even one around here that would get there SSR's on the track, They don't know what they are missing, Hummm I run a 160 stat in mine for a couple weeks and took it out, Even on the hotest days mine run worse and the mileage droped, Where else can you run at Indy for $7.00
Double-L: The reason the 160 degree thermostat did not work on your SSR is that the SSR's inadequate cooling arrangements make the 160 degrees an impossible target to hit most of the time.
Based on data I have seen, I suspect the G-Tech was very close - within a tenth or two at most, and that it was pessimistic compared to the timing lights at the track (i.e. gave higher times than the track system did to each measured speed or distance point).
Someone suggested that I do a "guess the G-Tec accuracy" game. Sounded like fun so here goes. YES there is a prize.
The Game: I have taken the difference in et's between each of the 4 runs and averaged them to get a single number that I will call the "G-Tec Differential" It represents the average difference between the track times and the G-Tec reported times. It will be a number between 0.00 (Dead On) and 1.00 (One second off). One guess per member and no duplicate guesses or ranges. To make it harder, you also have to tell me if you think the G-Tec showed times faster or slower than the track. The winner will be the one that guesses closest to the GTD in the right direction (faster or slower). Post your guess between now and midnight Wednesday the 12th.
The Prize: Besides site-wide bragging rights, I am putting up a 1:32 die cast SSR by Boley in Smokin' Asphalt. It features opening doors and a removable bed cover. It is a top-up version of the SSR concept. I'll FedEx it to the winner provided I get at least 10 guesses. So come on, let's see what ya'll think of the G-Tec, I know a lot of you have used them.
__________________
2005 Slingshot Yellow 1SB No 16549 - 12.74 et @ 105.36
2000 Silverado 5.3 Step-Side PU - Daily Driver
1957 Chevy BelAir Street Rod - 10.65 et
Last edited by AusTexKid : 06-12-2006 at 10:42 PM.
The G-Tec is mounted by suction cup to the center of the windshield parallel to the centerline of the truck. It was leveled (zeroed out) while sitting on the burnout pad just prior to the first run. I checked to make sure it was still calibrated each time I set it prior to the run.
__________________
2005 Slingshot Yellow 1SB No 16549 - 12.74 et @ 105.36
2000 Silverado 5.3 Step-Side PU - Daily Driver
1957 Chevy BelAir Street Rod - 10.65 et
First, you have the "rollout" issue, which the G-Tech faithfully emulates (even adjustable for "shallow stage" or "deep stage".
Then, you have the problem that at the track, the way that SPEED is determined is by measuring the time the vehilce takes to cover the distance between light beams. So, for example, when this is done to "estimate" temrinal speed, the WAY it is done is that there are 2 light beams a measured distance apart. The speed is calculated as (known distance) / (measured time). But, if you think about this, you see that you are actually getting the AVERAGE speed for the distance between the two light beams by doing it this way. The ACTUAL speed at the end of the quarter is HIGHER than this average value, as the vehicle is ACCELERATING (hopefully) all the way through the quarter mile.
The G-Tech approach with its computerized, solid state accelerometer microscopically tiny measurement intervals is actually more accurate, with the absolute accuracy being dependant upon how well the equipment was engineered to handle things like sideways motion, front end rising realtive to rear end, etc. The G-Tech has tunability in these areas and achieves impressive accuracy given its retail consumer price point!
The BEST equipment costs a lot more than a G-Tech, and uses satellite navigation techniques. If you ask the auto magazines, you will find that they mostly use this approach now, rather than track timing lights for their road testing, because it is both easier to arrange and more accurate. The car ,agazine article I refernced on this site a few months ago did a "consumer review type" comparison test of devices currently avaulable, and ranked the G-Tech second only to VERY expensive equipment, and showed that it was indeed accurate to within a tenth or two and pessimistic compared to the track lights.
However, dragracing history and records are all based on traditional timing lights, and that ensures a level playing field for competition, plus of course it's currently not practical to issue and later recover from each competitor at a drgarace event a receiver / transmitter that communicates with a tower satellite navigation based system.
First, you have the "rollout" issue, which the G-Tech faithfully emulates (even adjustable for "shallow stage" or "deep stage".
Then, you have the problem that at the track, the way that SPEED is determined is by measuring the time the vehilce takes to cover the distance between light beams. So, for example, when this is done to "estimate" temrinal speed, the WAY it is done is that there are 2 light beams a measured distance apart. The speed is calculated as (known distance) / (measured time). But, if you think about this, you see that you are actually getting the AVERAGE speed for the distance between the two light beams by doing it this way. The ACTUAL speed at the end of the quarter is HIGHER than this average value, as the vehicle is ACCELERATING (hopefully) all the way through the quarter mile.
The G-Tech approach with its computerized, solid state accelerometer microscopically tiny measurement intervals is actually more accurate, with the absolute accuracy being dependant upon how well the equipment was engineered to handle things like sideways motion, front end rising realtive to rear end, etc. The G-Tech has tunability in these areas and achieves impressive accuracy given its retail consumer price point!
The BEST equipment costs a lot more than a G-Tech, and uses satellite navigation techniques. If you ask the auto magazines, you will find that they mostly use this approach now, rather than track timing lights for their road testing, because it is both easier to arrange and more accurate. The car ,agazine article I refernced on this site a few months ago did a "consumer review type" comparison test of devices currently avaulable, and ranked the G-Tech second only to VERY expensive equipment, and showed that it was indeed accurate to within a tenth or two and pessimistic compared to the track lights.
However, dragracing history and records are all based on traditional timing lights, and that ensures a level playing field for competition, plus of course it's currently not practical to issue and later recover from each competitor at a drgarace event a receiver / transmitter that communicates with a tower satellite navigation based system.
Jim G
I stand corrected on the use of the word actual.
I think you read what I meant though.
N/A SSR goes 13.42 at SAR
)and TransGo says it will be May or so before they have a reprogramming kit for the 4L65. For now, a larger cooler is urgently needed.
) I drove around a bit to mix the gas and cool down. 
