Overheating - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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Overheating

Hmm. My SSR is still having issues with overheating. Yesterday, I was driving through Dallas, temps were in low 90's.



I've changed the thermostat, put in a larger Radiator, fluid level is good.

Fans are working.


This has been an ongoing project.

Any ideas?

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post #2 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 07:06 AM
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Overheating

I had similiar problems when I first purchased my SSR. Cured them by removing the underhood blanket, set the computer to turn on low speed fan at 205, hi speed at 215, installed Simple Engineering drop in fan replacement and air dam.
No more heating problems!
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post #3 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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I no longer have the hood blanket. I've got the scoop hood for the cold air induction. I'm currently sporting the Spal fan design from Austin.

I have been considering changing it to Mike's fan, if the Spal fan isn't producing the air flow it once was.

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post #4 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 07:27 AM
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Some R's I've seen at SSR Ralleys the fan doesn't come on untill it reaches the temp you are showing.

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post #5 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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My fans were set to come on at 190 low, 210 high (I believe)

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post #6 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focks View Post
Hmm. My SSR is still having issues with overheating. Yesterday, I was driving through Dallas, temps were in low 90's.

I've changed the thermostat, put in a larger Radiator, fluid level is good.

Fans are working.

This has been an ongoing project.

Any ideas?
If you've done above, then maybe the temp gauge isn't correct to began with. Didn't you just have all new stepper motors replace?
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post #7 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focks View Post
My fans were set to come on at 190 low, 210 high (I believe)
Mike, when I was at MV last month there was a Fanatic there that thought his fan was not working. I had him run his R until it reached the temp you showed in your post. It finally came on. He was sooo happy!
Im wondering now how many Fanatics have replaced their fan when actually there was no need too.
P.S. I run Mike's in Arz. cooling fan.

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post #8 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focks View Post
My fans were set to come on at 190 low, 210 high (I believe)
If I were you I would check to make sure that the program is still correct for the 190 set point. I have a stock fan set at 190 and I never get above 200 or so. The way the gauge shows in the picture it seems like "normal" operation for an R with a stock program. Not really overheating but getting to the operating temp as programmed, scary for those not used to it.

Stepper motor calibration could also be an issue as previously mentioned.
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post #9 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 10:12 AM
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How do you actually change the temperatues that the fan turns on and off at? Is that a DIY thing or must go to dealer?
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post #10 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatfield View Post
How do you actually change the temperatues that the fan turns on and off at? Is that a DIY thing or must go to dealer?
Kind of DIY, you need to use a hand held programmer like a Diablo or Superchip (I have this one) or take it to a performance computer programmer.
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post #11 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 01:04 PM
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My SSR:
2005 RedLine Red 6-Speed w/ 4.56 and PCM of PA Tune, purchased new July 4th, 2005
BEEN THERE ... HAD THAT TEMP INDICATION ISSUE... installed the Mike's fan, changed out the surge tank cap and thermostat... That high reading is the factory set point. Took it to a tuner in Mooresville NC "PCMTuneforless"... now it NEVER gets above the 210 indication...the stock fan was going to fail at some point so I did the Mikes fan in advance of a failure... thanks to all the great people at the MAggie Valley run that took the time to explain what was happening.

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post #12 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 04:36 PM
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i have Mikes fan and A/C and the R run alot cooler. i have not been over 205 to 210 now in the heat Focks

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post #13 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 05:43 PM
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Temp.

I had this happen once in traffic.

I shut off the AC turned the temp to high and ran the defroster & fan full blast.

After about 3 minutes Temp. came down and all was well.

Mike
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post #14 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 07:17 PM
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You guys are great....

Thanks for all the credit for fixing stuff, but this one has me stumped too. As much as I hate to admit it, I'm gonna have to call Focks and spend some time talking to him........ this one is NOT a normal issue.... He's been having recurring issues with it for a couple years and we have thrown everything we have at it....... There is still something that is out of whack....

I'm stumped.

Mikey
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post #15 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 09:26 PM
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My SSR:
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Talked with Focks......

Here's the configuration that Mike has in his truck...
  • Colvin dual spal fan setup. Moves LOTS of air.
  • Ron Davis Radiator. Approximately 40% more cooling capacity than OEM.
  • Lingenfelter thermostat. Specially modified to improve cooling efficiency.
  • Joe Delano tune. Carefully selected fan turn-on temps and cool running timing tables.
The problem seems to happen most consistently at 60mph cruise and above, when the fans should not have any effect. The Colvin fan kit has very good airflow at speed with all of the rubber blow-open doors.

We're proceeding very methodically for isolation of root cause on this one....

The plan for tomorrow is to stop by the dealership and have them check the calibration on the instrument panel gauge. They can do this with the Tech-2.
If the gage cal checks good, they are going to replace the temp sensor. After the temp sensor replacement, they are going to drain the anti-freeze out and check (with a borescope) the driver's side tank on the radiator for any foreign debris that might be blocking the flow through some of the radiator..... (have seen this happen about a year ago on an aftermarket radiator) Once completed with the borescope check, they will backflush the radiator with water and then put everything back together.

After it's together, Mike will again do a little driving for a couple days to see if anything changed..... If no change, we're going to start a very strategic attack with new parts.... one at a time. I'm working on a short list to offer mike tomorrow......

We'll keep y'all included as we go along....

Mikey

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post #16 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
The problem seems to happen most consistently at 60mph cruise and above, when the fans should not have any effect.
Is Focks wearing a improper fitting bra that would restrict airflow?
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post #17 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 10:20 PM
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I'd be really curious about the rubber doors as they could be affected by unforeseen airflow issues. Any chance of getting a remote camera pointed at the doors to verify the functionality at 60 mph and above? Or perhaps they are easy to remove for a test?
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post #18 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
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I'd be really curious about the rubber doors as they could be affected by unforeseen airflow issues. Any chance of getting a remote camera pointed at the doors to verify the functionality at 60 mph and above? Or perhaps they are easy to remove for a test?
The rubber flaps/doors on the spal fan shroud Colvin sells are not easily removed, if you plan on putting them back.. I think it would be easy to just cut them off though.

I believe they doors make a difference (vs no doors and a full shroud). My TBSS has dual 12 inch spal fans and it runs warmer than my SSR with the same ECM turn on/off settings. The 12 inch fans sound like a jet and move a lot of air. The TBSS fans have an aluminum shroud with no rubber flaps like the SSR 11 inch spal fans. With the outside temp at 100 F, Just sitting at idle both will stay at 194 to 200, but at speeds around 60 the TBSS will get to 220 to 226. At speeds above 80 the TBSS does better, staying below 220. The SSR never goes above 215 even at temps up to 110. Of course, there are differences in both cooling systems ... so it is not a perfect apples to apples comparison. I do think the doors help...
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post #19 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUN ROD RUN View Post
Is Focks wearing a improper fitting bra that would restrict airflow?
The bra has been discounted as root cause through "back-to-back" testing with it on and off. But it does contribute a small amount...... not enough to cause this, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hdflstf View Post
I'd be really curious about the rubber doors as they could be affected by unforeseen airflow issues. Any chance of getting a remote camera pointed at the doors to verify the functionality at 60 mph and above? Or perhaps they are easy to remove for a test?
Good thinking Art.... we may have to install a remote camera to see if they are opening at speed. Difficult, but do-able.

Thanks for the input.
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post #20 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 12:31 AM
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post #21 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 05:35 AM
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Fuel pump pressure causing a lean out?
Interesting thought..... Thanks for the input.

Joe Delano has carefully tuned this truck (with a touch-up tune this March) and the fuel schedules are spot on. With the combination of supercharger and Focks' heavy right foot, I doubt that a weak fuel pump would stay hidden at all. The problem has been plaguing Mike for a couple years. It just raised its ugly head again...

If we don't get satisfaction from the current work, the next steps are going to be to replace the t-stat again and then the water pump (if the t-stat doesn't fix it). There has to be a single problem item in the system somewhere that is causing this..... Yes, we'll put the fuel pump on the list of possibilities, though..... Thanks.

Mike
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post #22 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 10:45 AM
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I almost recall seeing a pic of hood louvers on an SSR. Am I just dreaming, or does anyone also remember this?
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post #23 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 10:59 AM
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Is the Maggie intercooled? maybe there is a problem in that system, not cooling the comressed air, and causing a higher temp air charge.
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post #24 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 11:04 AM
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I almost recall seeing a pic of hood louvers on an SSR. Am I just dreaming, or does anyone also remember this?
Nope, Achias . . . not dreaming on this one.

Two R's (Smokey, recent SSR Of The Month, and Ronj) here in Tucson have louvers.

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post #25 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 11:20 AM
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? What are the chances that the lower hose is collapsing and starving the coolant flow ?

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post #26 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
The bra has been discounted as root cause through "back-to-back" testing with it on and off. But it does contribute a small amount...... not enough to cause this, though.

Good thinking Art.... we may have to install a remote camera to see if they are opening at speed. Difficult, but do-able.

Thanks for the input.
Let me just duct tape some kid to the hood and he can look. It would be a lot more fun for everyone.

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post #27 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 11:34 AM
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Let me just duct tape some kid to the hood and he can look. It would be a lot more fun for everyone.
Just what you need, Michael.... A Screamer of a hood ornament !

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post #28 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssrtruck View Post
Is the Maggie intercooled? maybe there is a problem in that system, not cooling the comressed air, and causing a higher temp air charge.
We haven't gone much into that system, but it's worth a follow-up. Since the issue happens at cruise, there is not much heat generated by the blower..... it's in "bypass"... But definitely worth checking. I've seen electrolysis issues that plugged up the intake manifold on an SSR..... We'll look for good S/C pump flow in the reservoir next opportunity. Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow bear View Post
? What are the chances that the lower hose is collapsing and starving the coolant flow ?
Nil... the system is holding pressure. Collapsing the lower hose with 15PSI on it would be tough.... Thanks for the input, though. Some parts of the fault tree that I had not considered....

I'm glad to see the thoughts.... hard to brainstorm on a forum, but this is good...

Mike
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post #29 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 07:46 AM
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Let me just duct tape some kid to the hood and he can look. It would be a lot more fun for everyone.
I happen to have a few extra if you would like to try this

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post #30 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 08:01 AM
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Gorilla Tape would probably work great

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