removing gauge pod 2004 - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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removing gauge pod 2004

I'd like to remove the gauge pod in front of the shifter, below the ash tray. Mine is a 2004 and the gauges came with it.

I plan on replacing the gauges, I have read that when installing the gauges a bracket comes with them, but many people did not use it. From what I have been able to find, the pod gets pushed down over this bracket. So I was going to pull it off. I got to a certain point(the pucker point, I guess) and decided to stop.

How do I remove it? I Assume the gauges get disconnected and slide out the front..

I checked old threads and the library. This must be something that doesn't get done very often.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:15 PM
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Place a folded towel over the gauge pod to protect the pod and ashtray drawer above it. The pod is held down tightly by two clips located about at the inner edges of the outer console gauge faces. Put your fingers under the pod edges just rearward (toward back of truck) of the actual gauge faces but not all the way back by the pod tails and lift upward. When it comes free, it may pop upward fairly violently. Then slide the pod toward back of the truck to clear the two tabs near the front of the pod. Then disconnect the harness plug.

Once you get the pod free, you will see the nuts on the gauge studs that pass thru the PC board. Those nuts provide electrical contact as well as hold the gauges in the pod. Watch the order and placement of the various washers, nylon spacers and black plastic sleeves. Once everything is loose, the gauges will slide out the front.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much.
I'm thinking about painting it red to match the waterfall and console and using these gauges,
I couldn't find matching ones to do what I wanted. I'm going to think about this a while, then decide.

I'm tall and the high beam and signal light always get blocked by the steering wheel, when it is in a comfortable position for me.
I plan to connect the fog light to the spot where the check engine light is. I can't see that one either. I think I'll dark part of the engine on the light out and have my own fog light logo.

I'll order matching bezels if they are interchangeable. If not I might paint them red. or black or silver. I just want them to be the same as much as possible, if I do it.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:23 PM
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those are cool looking gauges I just had my gauge pod painted red to match my waterfall also i just like it a lot better also
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 05 SSR View Post
those are cool looking gauges I just had my gauge pod painted red to match my waterfall also i just like it a lot better also
The one with the signal lights and high beam also displays what gear the truck is in. It's mechanical, works off of the shifter on the transmission. That probably won't have much value. But I think I'll like being able to see the signals, high beam and fog lights.

The temperature one is pretty simple just place a couple of wires. I think it is self dimming.

The aeroforce one is really nice. It's plug and play. It will scroll through eight read outs when it comes on and can be set to a variety of choices, about whatever the computer is sending including codes(it is a code scanner as well).
You can choose two of the many things like, water temp, oil pressure, trans temp, mpg, volts etc. They also can be had in pairs, but that gets pricey and is more information than I need( like I "needed" the others).

I just have to decide if the different styles will look okay together. They all have black faces with red letters so that should help.
Also, all but the gear one the autometer gauge come in teal that would match the radio output. But since it was red and I liked the red anyway, I decided against it.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:20 PM
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Have you figured out how you'll wire the up? I don't think the harness that feeds the stock gages will be compatible.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxoxoBruce View Post
Have you figured out how you'll wire the up? I don't think the harness that feeds the stock gages will be compatible.
Yeah, the aeroforce is plug and play into the OMB or something like that. The plug under the dash used to check codes.

The gear display gauge comes with a bracket that connects to the shifter. Then I just have to tap into the signal, high beam and fog lights. That will take some time but not too complicated( See I've already had the door lock actuator out and back in, so some things will almost be fun)

The temperature is just 12v for display, it comes with the sensors and cable. I just have to decide where to put them.

I'm ready to get back outside. I'm getting some chores lined up.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:38 PM
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The four wires in the factory console gauge harness are: 12 v switched (acc) pwr, ground, class 2 serial data and inst panel lights.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by river_rat View Post
The four wires in the factory console gauge harness are: 12 v switched (acc) pwr, ground, class 2 serial data and inst panel lights.
Now that's some good advice right there

That'll help. A lot of this stuff has been trial and error, but I have used the library a lot as well.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:09 PM
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Don't know if this photo will help, but it's a shot I took several years ago when I replaced the center gauge on a 2003 with a Dakota Digital tire pressure monitoring system.

Photo quality isn't great, but you can see where the two metal clips are located on the outer edges of the pod about the mid point of the gauges. They are very similar to the clips used on the engine cover insert, but really hold because they are going into a metal bracket rather than plastic.

Popping it does make you pucker up a bit.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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I can see it. I also got some good advice about putting a folded towel over it. When it pops, the force carries it into the ashe tray.

Thanks.
This board amazes me. When I don't get an answer after about the first 10 views, I start to get impatient now.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:14 PM
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Some the Aero Force gauges will plug and play into the OBD port below the steering wheel.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:15 PM
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Calm thyself, there will be times when the people who have the information you want, are off to Maggie Valley, Laughling, Texas, the daughter's wedding, Parent's anniversary, or some trivial fun. Patience is a virtue Grasshopper.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 05:10 AM
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My SSR:
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When I removed my gauge pod, I simply removed the one bolt that holds the bracket at the front end of the truck under the dash. Then slid the bracket (and the gauge pod) towards the passenger side of the SSR, and it came right out. Then disconnected the electrical connection. It was only after I had it out that I noticed the snap clips and unsnapped the pod from the bracket. To reinstall, I bolted the bracket into place, reconnected the electrical, and snapped the gauge onto the bracket.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlbush View Post
When I removed my gauge pod, I simply removed the one bolt that holds the bracket at the front end of the truck under the dash. Then slid the bracket (and the gauge pod) towards the passenger side of the SSR, and it came right out. Then disconnected the electrical connection. It was only after I had it out that I noticed the snap clips and unsnapped the pod from the bracket. To reinstall, I bolted the bracket into place, reconnected the electrical, and snapped the gauge onto the bracket.
Uhmm, I'll take a look. I figured the bracket was hidden and bolted to the floor.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:14 AM
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My SSR:
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Bracket #1 is from this thread.

Brackets #2 are from this thread.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 09:22 AM
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My SSR:
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The pictures (1 & 3) Bruce posted is the 2003-2005 bracket (the 2006 was different and was a one piece design). With the bracket above, if installed correctly, the lip on the rear of the lower black piece is/was supposed to be mounted under the center console cover. The silver piece was then slid up against then top side of the center console cover and the nut tightened the rear of the bracket in place. Another fastener was used to secure the front of the bracket below the dash. If the rear of the bracket was tightened properly, you could possibly scratch or tear up the front of the console cover ahead of the shifter if you try to remove the console pod without removing it from the bracket first.

Also on the picture above you can see the two tabs that hold down the front of the console pod.

The 2006 bracket mounted to the two studs on the tranny tunnel and definitely could not be removed without taking the pod off of the bracket first.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 10:20 AM
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Kate is an '06 and shows the two studs when CASH had it apart.

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