My SSR: '04 Purple (Penelope)#3438 1st '04 Production UV and '06 blue over silver auto, #22851 #5 0f 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Sinister
It's for a customer, he says he has a pinhole leak but not sure what caused it.
I had mine replaced in Penelope as the filler neck had a crack and the tank wouldn't hold a vacuum. The indication was the engine icon light appeared on the dash.
The tech who replaced the tank said it is a common occurance in the truck line.
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Super old thread, I know, but wondering how I go about finding out a part for this? Also an 04... cracked near the filler neck like purple penelope. Dealer said $1050 for the tank and $250 more to install and I just can't spend that much jack considering it also needs new gauges (apparently when it says you're going 110 mph when stopped isn't a good thing? I just think that means it looks fast!).
Or, if I find a good mechanic near me they should be able to figure out the replacement part?
As always thanks and love the wealth of info out here!
Super old thread, I know, but wondering how I go about finding out a part for this? Also an 04... cracked near the filler neck like purple penelope. Dealer said $1050 for the tank and $250 more to install and I just can't spend that much jack considering it also needs new gauges (apparently when it says you're going 110 mph when stopped isn't a good thing? I just think that means it looks fast!).
Or, if I find a good mechanic near me they should be able to figure out the replacement part?
As always thanks and love the wealth of info out here!
Here is a link to an old listing of parts from 2003-2004 (Thanks to Mike in AZ). The fuel tank is on the last page. There might be a chance the part number hasn't changed.
Does anyone have a picture of the typical filler neck crack; I am trying to understand why something like this isn't repairable. From what I have seen; many of the gurus here are inclined to permanently repair verse replacing something that will simply break again.
An example that come to mind is the shifter linkage repair.
Maybe the filler neck location is not repairable; however, knowing where the crack (stress point) is may help many of us prevent damaging ours.
Does anyone have a picture of the typical filler neck crack; I am trying to understand why something like this isn't repairable. From what I have seen; many of the gurus here are inclined to permanently repair verse replacing something that will simply break again.
An example that come to mind is the shifter linkage repair.
Maybe the filler neck location is not repairable; however, knowing where the crack (stress point) is may help many of us prevent damaging ours.
Good suggestion, only I don't like to work on gas tanks. Might loose all my hair, never mind, done that already.
Serious, I will look at that with Lonnie, Mr. Sinister and see what, why and if we can reinforce the neck.
My SSR: Maybellene 2006 SSR Auto #23699 SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER Build Date: 03/02/2006
My Dad was a mechanic in the Canadian Army for years.
The first time I went to wend you a gas tank he gave me a hint I never forget.
run the exaust from a running vehicle into the gas tank till it feels warm.
it is now safe to weld on.
Take the tank to a plastic repair shop of the motorcycle variety.
Most times they can repair it.
When I was in the Plastic pipe fab show we often had to repair gas tanks for friends and employees.
__________________ Mike - mikebike in Surrey BC Canada Licence plate MY SSR
2006 SSR Auto SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER
Build Date: 03/02/2006 My SSR Photos
My SSR: Maybellene 2006 SSR Auto #23699 SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER Build Date: 03/02/2006
I'm proud to say I learned a lot from him.<VBG>
Many of the back yard mechanic tricks are what make some things easier.
Cheers
__________________ Mike - mikebike in Surrey BC Canada Licence plate MY SSR
2006 SSR Auto SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER
Build Date: 03/02/2006 My SSR Photos
My Dad was a mechanic in the Canadian Army for years.
The first time I went to wend you a gas tank he gave me a hint I never forget.
run the exaust from a running vehicle into the gas tank till it feels warm.
it is now safe to weld on.
We used to do this at a small service station in northern BC (parts like gas tanks were hard to get shipped up) The exhaust from a clean running vehicle was used & to test if it was safe, a torch was tied to a long stick. They thought it was safe and about to approach the tank when the tank ignited (it looked like a round barrel) That was the last tank they tried to fix.
So be very careful if trying this at home. I wouldn't recommend it.
My SSR: Maybellene 2006 SSR Auto #23699 SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER Build Date: 03/02/2006
Some times we don't have a choice and need to attempt a repair to get home.
As pointed out SAFETY is the primary concern.
__________________ Mike - mikebike in Surrey BC Canada Licence plate MY SSR
2006 SSR Auto SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER
Build Date: 03/02/2006 My SSR Photos
I have had the tank out of my R to replace the sending unit and pump. I can't recall noticing a stress point.
I am interested in where the specific problem area is. Support and/or reinforcement may not be overly difficult if caught prior to needing a repair.
I found a mechanic (recommended to me, hopefully he's actually good!) who wants to take a look to figure out where the "crack" is and see if it can be fixed/patched... soon as I get the baby back and over to him I'll report what I find out.
My SSR: Black, '03, 1sb, #1256, License Plate was WOW FCTR
This might be what my new problem is.
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2003 Black SSR #1256 1sb
100000 miles (02/04/07)....
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175000 miles (3/2/10)....
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225,000 miles (2/1/13)
My SSR: 2005 Sinister 6-speed, 2004 UV with flamous flames
Without looking into it further I would try using 3M 8115 Panel Bond and some mesh to make a repair. This would be for an external repair only, not inside the tank.
I'm a WWII air force nut (since I was a kid). I'm sure you'll all remember that the Japanese Zero often exploded when hit because they did not have self-sealing gas tanks. We did. In 1939!
In the early '80's I made one of the plastic substrates used for this self-sealing material. No welding, and the repair is permenant. Activated simply by exposure to both gas and oxygen. Will work both inside and outside the tank.
I remind you all of this so we don't make a mountain out of a mole-hill. I'll start searching again today, but am absolutely sure that this material is commercially available and used for personal aircraft upgrades.
Cut a strip (looks like thick duct-tape), wrap it around the filler neck-to-tank connection, and any "new" leak would immediatley result in a new seal.
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2006 SSR Auto Pacific Blue 3SS #21,599 Born on 08/26/05
When you're as average as I am, you tend to be drawn to the unique
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