My SSR: 2006 Red # 2238, 2005 Red #17046 (RIP) 2006 Pacific Blue #122857 06 black over silver 22946
Roof Ajar Sign and how to repair
I had a problem in Naples on my way to Key West , the roof ajar display came on , the passenger window droping down each time the door is open and the dreaded DING ,DING SOUND came on every 15 sections Called MIKE Byers he checked with his top mechanic ,said it was the Top, Door Moduel .Had a local dealer over night me one from Lancing Mich.It arrived 10:30 Friday morning, left immediately for the Key West Rally .When we arrived Tressa was talking to Turnheads ( Wayne & Sandy ) about having to drive all the way with her window down and having 2 dogs in her lap.Sandy said they had the same problem and it was a SIMPLE FIX ,took less than a minute to fix . REMOVE THE FUSE COVER (behind seat - passenger side)AT THE TOP OF FUSE PANEL THERE ARE 2 METAL FUSES ( about I/4 X ! inch) " JUST REVERSE THEM & PUT THEM BACK IN". Both windows now work Roof Ajar Disappared ,NO MORE DING,DING .I now have a spair $350.00 DOOR TOP MODUEL.
" O THANK HEAVEN FOR WAYNE AND SANDY "
My SSR: 04 Redline w/Lambo Doors ++, and 2005 Bk 6-Speed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furykay
I had a problem in Naples on my way to Key West , the roof ajar display came on , the passenger window droping down each time the door is open and the dreaded DING ,DING SOUND came on every 15 sections Called MIKE Byers he checked with his top mechanic ,said it was the Top, Door Moduel .Had a local dealer over night me one from Lancing Mich.It arrived 10:30 Friday morning, left immediately for the Key West Rally .When we arrived Tressa was talking to Turnheads ( Wayne & Sandy ) about having to drive all the way with her window down and having 2 dogs in her lap.Sandy said they had the same problem and it was a SIMPLE FIX ,took less than a minute to fix . REMOVE THE FUSE COVER (behind seat - passenger side)AT THE TOP OF FUSE PANEL THERE ARE 2 METAL FUSES ( about I/4 X ! inch) " JUST REVERSE THEM & PUT THEM BACK IN". Both windows now work Roof Ajar Disappared ,NO MORE DING,DING .I now have a spair $350.00 DOOR TOP MODUEL.
" O THANK HEAVEN FOR WAYNE AND SANDY "
Glad you have it fixed
I will keep the fix in my memory
Other SSR owners might have have this problem
It is also wise- to lift and lower the top on a level service (side to side), as problems can arrise.
Kay - Sorry we could not make the Keys Run this year, tell Tressa we miss you both!
My SSR: 04 UV, BOD 2-18-04, SN 5550, lots of polished billet, Superchips, K&N - Previous 03 and 05 owner
Wow, I would sure like to know how reversing the fuse would fix something like that. Maybe it was just a bad connection due to corrosion and moving them scuffed the surface and allowed it to work at full capacity again? This truck sure is interesting to say the least.
My SSR: #23198 06 Blue 3SS #375 of 532 - Birthday 12/21/05 - Took delivery 9/5/06 (2nd owner)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon2U
Wow, I would sure like to know how reversing the fuse would fix something like that. Maybe it was just a bad connection due to corrosion and moving them scuffed the surface and allowed it to work at full capacity again? This truck sure is interesting to say the least.
They are really either relays or circuit breakers and pulling them out is the reset. By reversing them you determine if it is a bad unit because the problem will move to whatever the other one powers.
My SSR: Pearl over UV tu-tone - "PurLple" w/ custom billet rallye wheels/baby moons & wide whitewalls, 4:56s
as Dwight said, they are breakers. Pulling them out resets them When we found the fix we switched the two and it worked! So that's now what we do. We're so glad we could help
__________________ SANDY
custom made SSR leather goodies; pm me with your order, ideas, or questions!
My SSR: 2004 Slingshot Yellow WITH CUSTOM TUNE BY JERERMY
That has happened to me several times all i do is cycle the roof and its good for a couple of months. But now i am going to try that and see if it fixes it for good Thanks
That has happened to me several times all i do is cycle the roof and its good for a couple of months. But now i am going to try that and see if it fixes it for good Thanks
Lu, Suggest you get some dielectric grease (Radio Shack), clean contact pins, apply grease and reinstall.
That should do it.
Dielectric Grease IS conductive and helps stop corrosion.
Lu, Suggest you get some dielectric grease (Radio Shack), clean contact pins, apply grease and reinstall.
That should do it.
Dielectric Grease IS conductive and helps stop corrosion.
Dicktator
If your dielectric grease is conductive it's not dielectric. The purpose is to keep moisture from causing corrosion and the juice from finding a wet path to places you don't want it to go... like ground. Any fuse/breaker/plug should have enough tension to make metal/metal contact through the grease, but the grease prevents other paths.
__________________
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My SSR: "Kate" a Haughty Redhead, '06 Redline FPR 6 spd. #23333 Build Date 2/16/06
Good for Wayne & Sandy for knowing this obscure fix!
Also good on Mike for doing his best to get you on your way in such short order!
To me the most feared component of the SSR going bad down the road is the roof and having a part like this on hand may not be a bad idea. I wouldn't go out and buy one today, but if I had it I think I would hang onto it for a really blustery rainy day, just in case.
__________________
"Such are the Vagaries of Life"
Ah, I'm Just Truckin' With Ya!
Well today I had the exact same thing happen to me. Parked the truck, put the top up and went shopping. When I returned and got into the truck, started it and the dreaded "roof adjar" message came on. The drivers door window indexed down each time I opened the door and would not go back up, just down, down and down. Both window switches would not work and the top would not go down. Top was up and latched. I had remembered this post from a month back so I drove home, disconnected the positive lead from the battery at the red box in the engine compartment (being careful not to ground out the socket to anything metal ) let the truck sit for ten minutes and hooked the battery back up and all was "fixed". I guess that works the same as pulling the fuses and allows the fuses to reset. So, the fix was easy but why did it do it in the first place? The only explanation I have for my problem occuring was that when I started the truck after getting in, for some reason the tonneau cover popped open. It opened as I was turning the key to start the truck and the only thing I can think of that may have caused it to open was my pressing the open button on the remote as I was starting the truck. Not that easy to do but possible. The resulting surge of power through the ignition switch may have created a glitch in the computer controls, blows the breaker and up comes the roof adjar and the windows do not work. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery resets the breaker and everything works again. I hope that is all it was but I guess we will see what happens down the road now. I guess it is comforting to know that this same thing has happend to others. If you know where to look the fix is usually here on the forum.
Last edited by sprooney; 12-10-2012 at 08:56 AM.
Reason: spelling
My SSR: 2003 SlingShot, Stabilissr, WindsuppreSSR, Cologne, Drilled and Slotted, 2nd Gear Servo, No Muffler
Replace the Ignition Switch
I experienced the same issue a few times and pulling the fuse and replacing it worked, twice, then the top pump started running while I was driving down the street, I stopped and pulled the fuses (large metal ones at the top of the fuse box in the cab). I went home and printed out the instructions for replacing the ignition switch and in about 30 minutes completed the job. That has been two months ago now and none of the odd electrical problems have returned. I was thankful to have the spare switch in my glove box that I picked up about 4 years ago, in Laughlin I think.
Well today I had the exact same thing happen to me. Parked the truck, put the top up and went shopping. When I returned and got into the truck, started it and the dreaded "roof adjar" message came on. The drivers door window indexed down each time I opened the door and would not go back up, just down, down and down. Both window switches would not work and the top would not go down. Top was up and latched. I had remembered this post from a month back so I drove home, disconnected the positive lead from the battery at the red box in the engine compartment (being careful not to ground out the socket to anything metal ) let the truck sit for ten minutes and hooked the battery back up and all was "fixed". I guess that works the same as pulling the fuses and allows the fuses to reset. So, the fix was easy but why did it do it in the first place? The only explanation I have for my problem occuring was that when I started the truck after getting in, for some reason the tonneau cover popped open. It opened as I was turning the key to start the truck and the only thing I can think of that may have caused it to open was my pressing the open button on the remote as I was starting the truck. Not that easy to do but possible. The resulting surge of power through the ignition switch may have created a glitch in the computer controls, blows the breaker and up comes the roof adjar and the windows do not work. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery resets the breaker and everything works again. I hope that is all it was but I guess we will see what happens down the road now. I guess it is comforting to know that this same thing has happend to others. If you know where to look the fix is usually here on the forum.
Good information, always helps to have experienced input. I would, however, suggest you change ignition switch, if it surged, like you suggest, it may have burned the points.
I keep an ignition switch in the glove box and tools and instructions, with pictures from your posts, in the truck at all times. I bought the truck a year and a half ago and I don't think the ignition switch has ever been changed. I will be doing some changes on "Tazzy" in the next couple of months and the ignition switch will be one of them.
My SSR: 2003 SlingShot, Stabilissr, WindsuppreSSR, Cologne, Drilled and Slotted, 2nd Gear Servo, No Muffler
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprooney
I keep an ignition switch in the glove box and tools and instructions, with pictures from your posts, in the truck at all times. I bought the truck a year and a half ago and I don't think the ignition switch has ever been changed. I will be doing some changes on "Tazzy" in the next couple of months and the ignition switch will be one of them.
I don't know if I would change it just to be changing it. My SSR is 9 years old and never had an odd electrical issue until two months ago.
Ed Borland (Ed's-Red-05) has an 05 that the ignition switch had never been changed and he was NOT having any problems.
He decided to just change it as a precaution and we were very surprised at how bad the points were burnt.
I know, "If it ain't' broke, don't fix it".
I was just suggesting, as always it is up to the owner.
I have 86,792 on my R and have changed ignition switch three time. Once because of the upgrade, second time because my battery went dead, 5yrs old, and I didn't want any problems from the switch.
And the last time was a "Hands on" change at Tech Day as instruction.
Remember, "Everything" goes thru switch and switch needs 9 volts to operate properly.
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All stock colors & TuTones
as Dwight said, they are breakers. Pulling them out resets them 
When we found the fix we switched the two and it worked! So that's now what we do. We're so glad we could help 
SANDY
, I stopped and pulled the fuses (large metal ones at the top of the fuse box in the cab). I went home and printed out the instructions for replacing the ignition switch and in about 30 minutes completed the job. That has been two months ago now and none of the odd electrical problems have returned. I was thankful to have the spare switch in my glove box that I picked up about 4 years ago, in Laughlin I think.
Linear Mode
