Do any of you notice your truck running hot. This summer I have seen the temp climb near 230 before I turned on the heater to dispel some of the heat. It was not always on a real warm day either.
Do any of you notice your truck running hot. This summer I have seen the temp climb near 230 before I turned on the heater to dispel some of the heat. It was not always on a real warm day either.
King, 230 is not high for our SSRs. In addition, turning on your heater will actually make it worse. Its not your fathers car.
Also, if you have not already replaced your main cooling fan with one from Mike in AZ I strongly recommend his main cooling fan. Bc. sooner or later your OEM fan will go out.
Location: About as far East as you can go before you hit salt water.
Posts: 2,638
My SSR: 2005 Allstate 400 Pace SSR #2 of 2 Built
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Allen
You turn on the air conditioner, not the heater, to engage the main fan.
Someone told me that along with the A/C on you also had to put it into recirc mode.
It worked in the pace truck last summer.
I have Mike's fan installed (I have the original one) but I also have an engine oil cooler and a transmision oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator.
Make sure the coolant is full to the cold line when cold and the cap is tightened down all the way.
The SSR has a closed cooling system.
I have an '04 and I have Mike's replacement fan on mine and I have also replaced the original thermostat.
Going up a hill/mountain without the A/C turned on the temperature would move up to the "3/4" mark on the gauge, so I guess that would be in the 225-230 range before the fan would kick on.
This is apparently normal but it drove me nuts.
At the Rally in Flagstaff I had Joe do one of his supertunes on my truck and he adjusted the fan to kick on at a slighlty lower temperature it now my temp gauge stays under 210 which makes me very happy.
Ok so how does turning on the heater hurt the vehicle , when you can watch the engine temp drop. Soon as I turned on the heater it dropped from 230 to 180-190. The redline is at 260. To me 230 is too hot for it to run.
Ok so how does turning on the heater hurt the vehicle , when you can watch the engine temp drop. Soon as I turned on the heater it dropped from 230 to 180-190. The redline is at 260. To me 230 is too hot for it to run.
It won't hurt it, but it won't engage the main fan either.
the temp sender is in the left head right next too exhaust port that is 300 to 500 degrees depending on eng load. put a real temp gauge (not electric) in u will b surprised what it reads. Catman
My SSR: 2003 "Ilsa" True Duals w/Jones Glasspacks, Eibach Springs, Addco Sway Bars, 4.56 Gears
I'm having the opposite problem. As a part of my custom tune this summer, we had the fan turn on sooner, and put in a lower temp thermostat. Although Ilsa seems to run fine, the temp needle stays around the mark between 0 and 210. In the summer, it stayed closer to 210 but never got all the way up there.
Is having the engine run at what I would guess is around 155 degrees in the winter something to be concerned about?
My SSR: 05 blur 6 speed. 18765, born 12/02/04, reborn 03/25/11
getting warm
I see that along with replacing the fan with Mike`s which I have done, some have also replaced the thermostat, does anyone have the part number and is it different than the stock one, mine does still get too warm for me as I sometimes get stuck in stop and go and temp is going past 230, turn air on and it does go down!
Replacing the OEM fan with Mikes Replacement Fan is a good first step. But if you do not like having the truck operate at 230 in traffic (the temp that the computer is set from the factory to turn the high fan speed ) do as most of of have done, add Mikes Aux Fan.
This fan installs in front of the radiator and is controlled separately from the computer by an adjustable controller. Dial in 210. Aux fan comes on at 210, problem solved. I live in Southern Mississippi, and believe me it gets hot here. I had the problem you described with my '04, added Mike's Aux fan, problem solved, same problem with my '05, added Mike's Aux fan, problem solved.
Costs about $250 plus shipping, best money you will spend on the truck.
Jack
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I'm having the opposite problem. As a part of my custom tune this summer, we had the fan turn on sooner, and put in a lower temp thermostat. Although Ilsa seems to run fine, the temp needle stays around the mark between 0 and 210. In the summer, it stayed closer to 210 but never got all the way up there.
Is having the engine run at what I would guess is around 125 degrees in the winter something to be concerned about?
I doubt your temp is really 125 degrees. If it is, your thermostat would have to be wide open and your fan running all the time, even then I'm not sure you could get it that low. Then again, I'm a 40 year backyard mechanic! If it really is 125 degrees, I would check your gauge and the thermostat, JMHO.......
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If you search the world for happiness, you may find it in the end, for the world is round and will lead you back to your door. ~Robert Brault
My SSR: 04 Redline w/Lambo Doors ++, and 2005 Bk 6-Speed
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackatg450
Replacing the OEM fan with Mikes Replacement Fan is a good first step. But if you do not like having the truck operate at 230 in traffic (the temp that the computer is set from the factory to turn the high fan speed ) do as most of of have done, add Mikes Aux Fan.
This fan installs in front of the radiator and is controlled separately from the computer by an adjustable controller. Dial in 210. Aux fan comes on at 210, problem solved. I live in Southern Mississippi, and believe me it gets hot here. I had the problem you described with my '04, added Mike's Aux fan, problem solved, same problem with my '05, added Mike's Aux fan, problem solved.
Costs about $250 plus shipping, best money you will spend on the truck.
Make sure you have the best GM thermostat installed in your truck. The thermostat is in the water pump intake and is actually a mixing chamber that maintains the coolant going into the engine at 86C (187F). This is a key system design point that is needed to anchor your cooling system. There were some minor engineering changes made to the GM thermostat in late 2005 that improved it and the new one is the only thermostat that GM uses for the 5.3L and 6.0L engine families. Cars, trucks, SUVs, Corvettes and SSRs.... all of them use the same P/N. The thermostat is GM P/N 1581595 and uses seal P/N 12570307. Don't waste your time with an off-brand or trying to out-smart the GM cooling system engineers. Use only genuine GM parts for the thermostat.
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SSR Fanatics.....Knowledgeable friends, just a click away.
Thanks Bruce..... I have mellowed a little since then, but still believe the 12570307 is still the best choice for 99% of the SSRs out there. The other 1% is made up of highly modified or supercharged installations that have had the computer heavily reprogrammed to change all of the things needed to make it run right at a lower temperature than 86C (~187F) in the mixing chamber at the inlet of the water pump.
One of the key things to remember is that the fuel injection runs "open loop" on its internal scheduling until the coolant temperature (measured at the cylinder head) reaches 185F. "Open loop" means that the fuel delivery is based on the look-up table in memory for the "nominal" fuel to match the various sensors in the system..... MAP, MAF, IAT, throttle position, rpm, etc.
At the point where the engine reaches 185F in the coolant at the head, the fuel schedluing goes to "closed loop". This is when the delivery scheduling is modified by the exhaust gas sensing at the fast responding O2 sensors upstream of the cats. The two banks of injectors are scheduled separately to the optimum stoichiometric ratio. This is what gives you the cleanest burn and best gas mileage.... along with small incremental corrections for the fuel delivery tables to compensate for production variability in the sensors.
The closed loop adjustments are stored in the "adaptive memory" of how your system operates.... tailoring your system fuel delivery to compensate for the variability of the sensors in your system. The adaptive memory stores data only after the engine reaches operating temperature and goes into closed loop operation. It stores the last 30 starts that went to 185F or above.
Hope this clears things up a little.....
Regards,
Mike
__________________ Trust and Generosity are contagious.
Sure, we're not just dealing with components, like building blocks, anymore. Now it's more like a jigsaw puzzle, everything has to fit together, and everything you change affects several other pieces of the puzzle.
I know the modern electronics have made a lot of backyard mechanics throw up their hands in despair, when something as simple as a lightbulb can make the computers go nuts. But if you can get a handle on how it all works, the performance possible from these motors, is a wondrous thing.
__________________
SSR Fanatics.....Knowledgeable friends, just a click away.
Sure, we're not just dealing with components, like building blocks, anymore. Now it's more like a jigsaw puzzle, everything has to fit together, and everything you change affects several other pieces of the puzzle.
I know the modern electronics have made a lot of backyard mechanics throw up their hands in despair, when something as simple as a lightbulb can make the computers go nuts. But if you can get a handle on how it all works, the performance possible from these motors, is a wondrous thing.
You're right.
I am researching a slightly lower temp t-stat that will yeild a little benefit in performance without compromisisng the 185F threshold. Since the OEM 187 yeilds a 200-203 gauge temp (13-15F rise across the engine is "normal"), I can only drop about 10 degrees without getting in trouble. That means I'd be looking for a 177F t-stat........ not a common thing. Until i find the source and do some serious testing, I am not wavering from the 187F stock t-stat....
Regards,
Mike
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