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Old 08-23-2010, 09:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Service Brake System

Okay - I've been getting the "Service Brake System" along with ABS and Brake lights for a while now.

I replaced the ignition switch cuz I could.

Yesterday I replaced the brake fluid.

Lights still come on.

I hooked up the scanner - not a throwing a trouble code.

So what gives???

>>>Rod<<<
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkenly View Post
Okay - I've been getting the "Service Brake System" along with ABS and Brake lights for a while now.

I replaced the ignition switch cuz I could.

Yesterday I replaced the brake fluid.

Lights still come on.

I hooked up the scanner - not a throwing a trouble code.

So what gives???

>>>Rod<<<
You may want to remove the Fuse to the Brake module and wait a few minutes for the Capacitors to Discharge. Then replace the Fuse. If that doesn't work then you may have a Faulty Brake Module. check and see if your T/C turns off and on Properly. Also check the Connections to the Brake Module. It controls many devices on the Truck.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The lights don't come on until I've hit the brakes a few times. All appears normal until then. What is the T/C? (maybe too early in the morning)
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Traction Control.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Do you have the right scanner for the brake system, the regular scanner will not show the codes for brakes, from what I have read.
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Really??? Never heard that before, but oh what a surprise. I have an Autoxray 4000 - it "should" read all codes, but won't swear to that (but I will swear)...

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Old 08-25-2010, 08:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Chev trucks have a problem with the ABS sensor at the front wheels getting rust built up behind the sensor, causing the abs to come on at 4-5 miles/hr as you come to a stop.
This triggers the abs warnings and sometimes a brake failure warning.
If you think this might be it, google "online Chev mechanics" and type in your troubles under Envoy/trailblazer as that's the platform they're built on.
Happy hunting

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Old 08-26-2010, 07:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I get the "service brake system" warning about 3 times a week. But mine comes on when I turn the truck on. It has never come on while driving or braking, just standing still and in park. Weird huh?
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Smile ABS Fix

After living with an ABS warning light, chime, and Brake light almost everytime my SSR is driven, the local Chevy dealership has finally located the parts needed to fix the problem. The parts are brake module #15804288 and very hard to find ABS valve #15804290. I'll let you know if the problem is fixed after driving some more.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I googled these parts numbers and nearly passed out when I saw the prices. Please keep us informed - I'm getting the same "Service Brake System" message....

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Old 11-26-2010, 03:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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abs module

okay - I took my R to my local "trusted" mechanic. There is no longer a GM dealer in town (thank god in a lot of respects - another story).

His scanner could read the error code (my scanner couldn't) and it indicated a bad ABS unit.

However he did have the tech report that talked about the grounds, and he cleaned and re-torqued all grounds, but ABS lights still on.

He did all the other checks - brake fluid sensors, etc.

Previously, I had changed out the brake fluid, as I was told by GM that old/dirty brake fluid could sometimes cause the light -whatever...

Anyway - last Friday, I had enough of the light on all the time, and I had him order the mega-buck ABS unit. I had decided that I didn't want to go with a re-built unit (which is another message on this forum).

The part arrived wed night, and I took my R in this morning, and got it back an hour ago. No more light! The mechanic also said that he gave me a couple of software upgrades for the ECM & PCM at no cost, since they were out there on the system.

SO while my pocketbook is a LOT lighter at Christmas time - I'm happier. He also indicated that this is a common GM problem - and about 50% of people just live with the red light on all the time. He also said it was cheaper than the Dodge version of the same unit (by a factor of 3).

I do have the old unit - so if it ever happens again, I will use that unit to be re-built and go with a re-built.

>>>Rod<<<
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkenly View Post
He also said it was cheaper than the Dodge version of the same unit (by a factor of 3).
>>>Rod<<<
Yeah, my brother just replaced that unit on his Dodge pickup at 60k. Took forever to get it and cost a fortune. I'm afraid he won't be getting me much for Christmas this year.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Fwiw

I knew I was going to have to address the brake light when I bougth the car as it was already on. I had it checked out while still in CA and then once I got it home I had the local guys check everything out to get a sticker on it.

They found this bulletin on it. So I am now about to take it to the dealer to see what they say before I figure out which way to go.

I think it is interesting that an independent garage found this tech bulletin but it looks like many dealers that have been visited have not.

hmmmm, ok I'm a dummy. How do I attach a pdf please?

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Old 02-14-2011, 12:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hit "post reply" rather than "quick reply", write your post, then scroll down to "additional options". Click "manage attachments" and another box will open which will show you the size limits for each type of file. It's 200 KB for a pdf. Click "browse", find the pdf on your computer, and click upload.
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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many thanks to xoxoxoBruce!
However I think I have discovered part of the problem - I am Not allowed to post attachments. (I've been meaning to upgrade membership, just a reminder I haven't yet.)

so I scanned the doc to text and I will just paste it here instead. Sorry about any formatting issues, I tried to clean up the obvious stuff.

2006 Chevy Truck SSR
Brakes - ABS Lamp ON/DTC's C0265/C0201/U1041 Set

TECHNICAL Bulletin No.: 04-05-25-002E
Date: March 11, 2009
Subject:
ABS Light On, DTCs C0265, C0201, U 1041 Set and/or Loss of Communication with Brake Module (Reground EBCM Ground)

Models:
2004—2007 Buick Rainier
2002—2006 Cadillac Escalade Escalade ET
2003—2006 Cadllac Escalade ESV
1999—2007 Chevrolet Slverado Classc.
2000—2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2002—2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
2002—2007 Chevrolet TrakBlazer, TrmlBlazer E T
2003—2006 Chevrolet SSR
1999—2007 GMC Sierra Classic
2000—2006 GMC Yukon, ukon Denali. Yukon XL
2002—2007 GMC Envoy. Envoy XL, Serra Denak Classic
2004—2005 (3MC Envoy XCV
2002—2004 Oldsmobile Bravada

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add step 2 to the procedure and update the Parts and Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-05-25- 002D (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition:
Some customers may comment that the ABS light is on. Upon further inspection, DTCs C0265 and C0201 may be set in the brake module. It is also possible for DTC U 1041 to set in other modules. There may also be a loss of communication
with the brake module.
Cause:
A poor connection at the EBOM ground is causing unnecessary replacement of brake modules.
Important:
The EBOIV1 ground is different for each application. Refer to the list below for the proper ground reference:
Midsize Utilities = Ground 304
SSR = Ground 400
Fullsize Trucks and Utilities Ground 110

Correction

Important:
Do not replace the brake module to correct this condition. Perform the following repair before further diagnosis of the EBCM.
Perform the following steps to improve the connection of the EBCM Ground:
1. Remove the EBCM Ground. The EBCM Ground is located on the frame beneath the driver’s side door, If multiple grounds are found in this location, the EBCM ground can be identified as the heavy (12-gauge) wire.
2. If the original fastener has a welded on nut, remove the nut from the frame, and if required, enlarge the bolt hole to accommodate the new bolt and nut.
3. Clean the area, front and back, using a tool such as a *3M(TM) Scotch-Brite Roloc disc or equivalent.
4. Install the ground, then the washer and then the bolt to the frame.
Important:
It is important to use the bolts, washers and nuts specified in this bulletin. These parts have been identified due to their conductive finish.
5. Install a washer and nut to the back side of the frame.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 9 Nm (79 lb in).
6. Cover the front and back side of the repair area using Rubberized Undercoating.

An additional check can be made to ensure a good connection for the battery cable to frame ground. It is possible for this ground to cause similar symptoms with the ABS as described above.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be available from other sources.

Parts Information:
Full-Size Trucks, SUVs and H2
Part Number Description
11588564 Bolt
11609679 Washer
11609746 Nut
12378398 (in Canada 10952414) Rubberized Undercoating – Paintable
29214 3M Scotch-Brite Roloc Disc
Midsize SUVs
11588337 Bolt
11610367 Washer
11503749 Nut
12378398 (in Canada 10952414) Rubberized Undercoating – Paintable
29214 3M Scotch-Brite Roloc Disc

Warranty Information:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N9502 * Ground repair – EBCM Ground 0.3 hr
* This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

I'll let you all know what the dealership finds tomorrow.

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Old 02-15-2011, 12:33 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Another grounding issue.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
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ABS light on

So here is what is happening in my situation:
It is related to the ignition switch, somehow the switch relay is causing it. This is also affecting the interior climate controls. On the controls I had checked the fuses and they seemed ok so while at the dealers I asked them to a few minutes to check that out also. Turns out it is all related. $275 includes parts, labor taxes. OK, go ahead and change the ignition switch.

They just called back. Service mgr asks if the steering wheel seems to be "floating". And indeed I had noticed driving over there today that the steering wheel was not "square" when driving in a straight line. At the time I just thought "oh great an alignment issue. I'll deal with that back at my normal mechanic." Turns out that a bracket on the steering column is broken. So the column is not stable and the wheel is not centered. That in turn is what has caused damage to the wiring for the ignition switch; pinching, bending as it wasn't intended to be bent, etc. It is not a big deal to fix the actual bracket except to do it they have to pull the steering column out. If left as is it may or may not affect the steering except that the same problem will happen again to the ignition switch. $500 includes parts, labor and taxes.

I knew this car had some issues when I bought it. Some are different than I expected, some are worse and some are easier. So far I have not exceeded my mental budget towards getting it put back together.
I am still certain it is worth it and it is still cheaper than a boat!!

ignition switch: $275
steering column bracket: $500
owning a Pacific Blue, '06, hard-top convertible truck: priceless

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Old 02-15-2011, 05:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailing View Post
I knew this car had some issues when I bought it. Some are different than I expected, some are worse and some are easier. So far I have not exceeded my mental budget towards getting it put back together.
I am still certain it is worth it and it is still cheaper than a boat!!

ignition switch: $275
steering column bracket: $500
owning a Pacific Blue, '06, hard-top convertible truck: priceless

Sailing
That is an expensive ignition switch. I carry a spare that I thinkcost me $35 and theinstructions to replace it in something under 1/2 hour according to others. At those hourly rates I think I should go back to work, but not sure I could handle the weather.
Do not know anything about the steering column but that also seems a bit steep. I would check the repair order carefully to see what you are really paying for.
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:54 AM   #19 (permalink)
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My understanding is that the ignition switch charge also includes some diagnostics for some other issues I asked tham about. I thought they may be related to fuses however turns out they are related to the switch. So that number is total for switch, labor, diagnostics, etc.
The number for the steering column is primarily labor. I thought about taking it to a body shop instead as I suspect they are more use to dismantling and reassembling obscure parts. It is also possible that number will be lower, that is the highest he said it would be. That is accounting for any additional problems.

Thanks for the viewpoint, I appreciate the help. I should hear from them with an update by noon.

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Old 02-16-2011, 08:38 AM   #20 (permalink)
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It is also possible that number will be lower, that is the highest he said it would be.
That's dealer-ese for, throw this number out and see if he faints.
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Old 08-12-2011, 10:33 PM   #21 (permalink)
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IS fixing the ground the solution?

Has anyone used that ground bolt fix stated above and has it fixed their problem rather than replacing the brake module? As posted by sailing??
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
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How many have dealt with this issue and have fixed it without replacing the module? Can the buzzer/alarm be deactivated? Has cleaning the grounds cured anyone's problem? I am getting tired of hearing the warning everytime I start and drive the truck.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:00 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Anyone? Bueller? Bueller??
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:49 PM   #24 (permalink)
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So I have my IC out and having the stepper motors replaced. So while the IC has been out, it has been heaven not hearing the chime and getting the message to service brake system. Does anyone know which pin on the IC connector I can block, cover or just plain disable before I put the IC back in to keep that noise and alarm from coming back on?
Thanks
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:11 AM   #25 (permalink)
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MB, in looking at my 05 manual, I don't see a dedicated pin for that warning circuit. It must be just a component of a larger serial data circuit, which is the B1 pin. Sorry, not much help.
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Old 08-26-2011, 11:57 AM   #26 (permalink)
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How many have dealt with this issue and have fixed it without replacing the module? Can the buzzer/alarm be deactivated? Has cleaning the grounds cured anyone's problem? I am getting tired of hearing the warning everytime I start and drive the truck.
My mechanic just cleaned mine up, said it looked bad. But I have not had the opportunity to drive it around yet.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:58 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Well I got my IC back and put back in the truck. I am so happy to have a speedo and temp guage again. Thank you Shannon at Cluster Fix. Now all I have to do is fix that pesky freakin "Service Brake System" idiot light and alarm and then the "For Sale" sign goes on.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:41 PM   #28 (permalink)
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What has anyone done about fixing this "Service Brake System" problem? Are a lot of you guys just doing what I have been doing and ignoring it? How much is a replacement sensor? Has anyone sent theirs out for repair?
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Old 01-20-2012, 01:31 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Do a search for ABS module. It seems that several people have checked for a loose ground wire near the ABS or had their ABS sent out to be rebuilt.
I currently have the same problem and in the process of removing the ABS to have it rebuilt.
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:01 AM   #30 (permalink)
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My Service Brakes soon started 3 weeks ago. I have Changed Brake Booster & Brake Stop Light Switch. No Help. Changed after a PO265 DTC at recommendation of Auto Parts Manager with a 2004 Silverado with 245,000. New Front Rotors & Pads. The Hubs & Bleed all Green Brake Fluid out with Fresh Synthetic Brake Fluid. Still have Service Brake soon. Had Instrument Cluster replaced with New Cluster at USSPEEDO.COM in Flint Mi. Still have the DTC & Display Message. Checked Grounds & Cleaned. Still Have problem. But after all this? The Service Brake soon come on after driving 100 feet. Stop Restart. All Lights go Off. 100 feet Back on again. My Problem is all First year was Over Heating. Changed Radiator Cooling Fan & Water Pump & Coolant Tank. Flushed system. $1000. Changed Alternator, Battery & Belts $500. Changed all Switches on Steering Wheel & Dimmer Switch $300 Heater Fan $250. Four Firestone Fire Hawks Tires $1250. 2 Attempted thefts $2500 Damage. Rear Ended $8500 Damage. When will it all end? New information is that the Motor the runs the ABS is Bad. I bought a recycled EBCM for $237 from Spalding Auto Parts in Washington State. I removed my malfunctioning unit. Placed the recycled EBCM in place. Bleed the system. It took 2 Large Bottles of Valvoline Synthetic Brake fluid. After I bleed to get a Firm Pedal with Engine off. I started engine & while on Jacks all wheels removed. I ran the Transmission in Drive applying Brakes & Traction control. Shut it off. Went back through all wheels Bleeding again. No trouble lights & good Brake Pedal feel. I went to O"Riley's auto Parts in Oregon Ohio & had Erica who has been a BIG Help, Check my ABS DTC. She cleared all DTC. With a BIG Thank You. I drove 100 miles today with No Trouble Lights. To all SSR owners with this Problem. Check Ground on Frame next to EBCM. Big Black Wire. Get Maintenance Manual to know what to Check with a Multi Meter for Ohms at Motor. If Infinite. Bad Motor. Check for Voltage at Plug. Should be 10 to 12 volts. Drain all Fluid & fill with Fresh Brake fluid. Bleed completely! Check Brake Pads & Calipers. I had a Bad Hub & Wheel Speed sensor. Have insturment Cluster checked. Mine was Shorted Worn out $1000 My SSR Is back on the Road. Contact me at toddalgieyoung@gmail.com I have all the tests & trouble shooting. Ignition switch is not Bad or does it have anything to do with the EBCM. Check the Switch on Hand Brake. Mine was not always working & causing Headlights to Not come on when released. May need adjustment. Also Make a Heat Shield Guard for EBCM. Catalytic Converter is less than 1 inch from EBCM & is Boiling Fluid & Heating up EBCM causing Failure.

Last edited by hottoddy6757; 07-27-2012 at 09:52 PM. Reason: New information
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  Chevy SSR Forum > SSR Discussion > SSR Technical Discussion

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