steering column trim removal

[Action]

Jason

[WOW_FCTR]

Originally Posted by Action

Nevermind on the lever, it pulled straight out.

Jason

Just pull it straight out.....oh, oh you got it already. Good.

[WOW_FCTR]

Originally Posted by Action

When putting the ign switch back in, the instructions say I MUST PUSH AND HOLD IN THE SOLENOID ON THE ELECTRIC PARK LOCK.

Right now, without the ign switch in, the key will not turn to the OFF position.

Where is this solenoid I need to push in?

I already broke 1 tab off the left rear of the lower column cover and I did not get it all the way off. I can't get the right rear seperated from the top. The top cover is still in place. I got the ign switch out as it is and I am ready to put the new one in, but I don't know where that solenoid is. These instructions are kind of vague.. It isn't like I can click a link when it is on paper!

Jason

I'd PM wingrider if no one answers here....

[shiftz33]

Originally Posted by Action

Nevermind on the lever, it pulled straight out.

Jason

How much effort is required to "pull the lever straight out"?

It seems no matter how much force I use the lever will not come out.

[shiftz33]

Originally Posted by shiftz33

How much effort is required to "pull the lever straight out"?

It seems no matter how much force I use the lever will not come out.

I figured it out. I placed a small flat blade screw driver at the base of the lever and it popped right out.

[WOW_FCTR]

Originally Posted by Action

IF A THIEF GOT INTO AN SSR, COULD HE/SHE JUST PULL THE IGNITION SWITCH OUT AND TURN THE GEAR BY HAND TO START THE VEHICLE?

Jason

Did you try....I'm sure the anser is no.

[shiftz33]

I successfully replaced my ignition switch this morning. The upper steering column trim piece was not as obvious to remove, especially due to the torx head screw/bolt used to secure top trim piece just in front of the ignition switch. I swapped out the torx screw for a regular screw in case I need to do this again (I hope not).

There are two (secondary) wire leads to remove. One is easy to remove (simple snap in plug), but the white connector took a couple of minutes to figure out the correct way to remove it. You have to put a small screw driver in between the metal and the white tab at the base of the connector. You can then twist the connector clockwise a quarter turn to have it in a position to remove it.

I definitely feel a difference between the original ignition switch and the replacement ignition switch. The off/acc/on/start positions are more well "defined" as you turn the key.

[shiftz33]

I too had a bit of trouble with the removal of the ignition switch wire connector.

I just noticed my "battery tender", which I have hooked up to the Optima battery that I removed from my SSR yesterday, is now beginning to "blink" the green led. That implies the "battery tender" is getting close to a "full charge" with that battery.

My problem may have been the ignition switch all along. At least it's been replaced. I want to see if this power drain occurs again with the OEM battery back in the SSR with the new ignition switch.

Robert

[shiftz33]

Originally Posted by Action

After replacing the ignition switch, make sure nothing can come on without the key in the slot. My lock cylinder would turn forward just enough to turn on a couple dash icons. My switch was off by one tooth. I pulled the switch down and slightly moved the key forward before pushing the switch back up. It is as original now.

Jason

Jason,

Thanks for the reminder. I just went out to the garage and confirmed that nothing turns on or lights up when I move the lock cylinder without the key inserted.

Robert

[shiftz33]

While driving my SSR today, I noticed that it was "not starting" unless I really cranked the key in the start position.

After taking things apart again to gain access to the ignition switch, I tried moving the switch what I thought was one tooth, but I had the same problem that Jason stated about being able to get the ACC mode to engage with a slight wiggle of the lock cylinder in the OFF position (without the key). I thought I had a bad start position on the replacement switch.

Out comes my second replacement ignition switch (yes I had two of them) and I installed it. I found the exact same behavior when I tried to start the engine. How could two of them be bad.

I pulled down replacement ignition switch #2 and used a small screw driver to move the gear by one tooth (without fully removing the ignition switch this time). This time I found proper operation of the ignition switch in the START position and I could not get the ACC mode to engage without the key in the OFF position (as noted above).

I must have moved the gear on replacement switch #1 by two teeth instead of one. Now the operation of the ignition switch feels "normal".

But I can now see that with the key to the full "OFF" position that does not place the ignition switch at the end of its full travel. I can now see how if the internals of the ignition switch get loose from use how it might not turn off the power fully.

I left replacement ignition switch #2 in place since I had it "aligned" with the lock cylinder.

Not the best design I've seen nor the closest gap tolerances either for an ignition switch system.

[SSRocket]

Hey guys/gals, I'm new here and have read some of the GREAT posts involving "technical gremlins" with the SSR, specifically the ignition switch gremlin.

I don't own an SSR but have a neighbor who has a modified Hummer and a nice yellow SSR. Recently I've been tinkering with various issues on his Hummer and as of last week took possession of his SSR until I figured out what was going on with his ignition.

I had the problem whereas the ignition lock would not allow you to return to the "A" position, so the car would keep the key, the battery/electrical system would shut down and go into what I call a "sleep" mode until you charged it briefly. The other issue was that the transmission (automatic) would start out in D2 and wouldn't downshift into D1.

I'm happy to report that after taking about an hour to read through various posts here on the SSR Fanatic discussion boards, I determined that we had a bad ignition switch and went to the dealership to pick one up yesterday. Within an hour I had the lower dash removed and the steering column covers off. The ignition switch was fairly low drama to changeout and WALLAH!! ...BOTH issues are a thing of the past.

My neighbor is happy as a clam now and as always, I enjoy figuring out gremlins such as this.

Just wanted to say I would've NEVER suspected an ignition switch would affect the shifting operation of the transmission and we were ready to drain the transmission and change the typical solenoid that I read some have changed out, most with little to NO satisfaction in solving issues.

So, a heartfelt thanks goes out to the people on this board that take the time to post their encounters, discoveries and triumphs over this unique piece of machinery that Chevrolet has dubbed the SSR.

I run what I call a small shop out of my residence, just personal stuff that mostly involves building/modifying a couple of race cars that I own, both are highly modified Porsches that I use for trackwork and racing in a couple of series. I help a lot of friends with their race/performance cars as well and often my driveway/garage is a spectacle to those that are car nuts, whether they are walking or driving by. I love to help people figure out those gremlins that are just driving them nuts and the fact that my neighbor's SSR would keep his key drove him crazy, so this was the perfect scenario!

Thanks again, without the help of this board I would've surely broke a few tabs off the steering column covers and who knows what else!

***as a footnote to the steering column cover, a 1/4" drive, six point (I believe 3/16"??) socket works great to get that "tricky" torx screw, the only fastener that holds the top half of the steering column cover on...out.***

This being my first post, please allow me the chance to say "HELLO" and THANK YOU, sorry for the length, I've had my morning coffee and I just can't quit typing!

[WOW_FCTR]

Thanks for the story!!!

Tell your neighbor to drop in on us once in a while too.

[shiftz33]

I've also found it is possible to remove the lower steering column without removing any of the lower dash panels.

I'm happy to report that with the realigned replacment ignition switch in place, things have been working just fine.