Found this interesting information on Synthetic on AOL
* Should I use synthetic oil?
* Does it work better in some cars than others?
* Does it cost more?
* Do I have to change the oil more frequently?
Less frequently? Does it make my engine last longer?
First of all, let's take a brief look at the history of synthetic motor oil and its introduction to the marketplace.
AMSOIL INC developed the first synthetic motor oil to meet API service requirements. Lieutenant Colonel Albert J. Amatuzio, President and CEO of AMSOIL INC witnessed synthetic lubricants in action as a jet fighter squadron commander. Synthetic oils were developed for (and still are used exclusively in) aircraft jet engines because of their extraordinary capacity to reduce friction and wear on engine parts. Synthetic oil has an incredible ability to function dependably at severe hot and cold temperatures as well as to withstand rigorous and lengthy engine operation without chemical breakdown. This is critical in aircraft engine operation because, if oil breaks down at 30,000 feet, aircraft engines can fail and ... well, you get the picture. Amatuzio decided that he would develop synthetic motor oil to be used in automobiles for the same benefits. In 1972 AMSOIL introduced the first motor oil for automotive applications. In the early seventies, another company was also working on synthetic oil development for the automobile ... Mobil Oil Company. They came to market with synthetic motor oil in 1975. By the 1990's the other major oil companies added their synthetic oils to the marketplace, in addition to their petroleum-based products.
To understand synthetic motor oil, let's look first at the origins of all motor oil. Conventional oils come from crude oil that is pumped from the ground. In an oil refinery, crude oil is separated into various fractions. These fractions become the bases for lubricating oils and fuels. The part of crude oil that forms thick tangled masses of carbon chains are used in roofing tar and roadwork. Very short chains and ring compounds of carbon are volatile and can be refined to produce gasoline and other products. All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids. Synthetic blends usually use some non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional oil. It is the unique chemical formulation of synthetic oil that causes it to be highly resistant to viscosity breakdown from high temperature, friction, and chemical contaminants.
Should I Use Synthetic Oil In My Car?
That depends on the vehicle's age, mileage, and the carmaker's recommendations for engine lubricants. Older vehicles with high mileage tend to have excessive mechanical wear in the engine, allowing for internal oil leakage. On vehicles with high mileage, it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil because it is thin and very free flowing, and use of it does (more often than not) result in internal oil combustion. I used full synthetic oil in a Plymouth Neon. After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied and the consumption stopped. I logged another 30K miles and sold it. It's still running with over 200K miles today and it doesn't burn oil. Carmakers use full synthetics and semi synthetics in some of their engines today. In most cases, you will find that a synthetic lubricant is used when there's a high performance engine with tight engine tolerances, high compression, and high operating temperatures. Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch).
Does It Work Better In Some Cars Than Others?
As I stated earlier, some carmakers recommend only using synthetic oil in their engines. For instance, Chevy recommends the use of Mobil One full synthetic oil in its new generation Chevy Corvette engine. I have used synthetic oil in all of my vehicles for the last six years with great results, with one exception. I didn't use a full synthetic in my Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC V-6. Ford specifies using a 5W20 semi synthetic due to engine design, so I followed the manufacturer's specification. Remember, before changing to synthetic oil, check with your dealer on carmaker's recommendations. As stated earlier, you could void the warranty.
What are the pros and cons of using synthetic oil in my car?
Pros:
It flows easier in cold weather, therefore no loss of prime when the oil is cold. Also, it is highly resistant to viscosity breakdown (the ability of the oil to flow easily in all temps) from heat, friction, chemical contaminants.
Longer change intervals: 5,000 - 7,000 miles between oil changes (compared to 3,000 for regular oil). Some folks have documented up to 25K miles between changes. However, I would not advice going that long!
Cons:
Cost is twice as much as conventional oil per quart. However it lasts longer, so the actual cost increase is closer to 50 - 60 percent.
Flows easily, therefore not recommend for use on high mileage engines; nor do I recommend using it in new engines during the break-in period because it is so slippery and dramatically limits the wearing of new mating parts within the engine. This initial wearing of parts is what makes for proper engine break-in, sealing of piston rings, mating of camshafts and lifters, etc.
Does it make my engine last longer?
Yes, because its so slippery, synthetic makes for less engine wear and thus greater engine longevity.
My SSR: 05 6 speed black has a K&n cold air kit descreened and Diablo tuner & Eric's hood
I'm a Royal Purple guy I run it in our 3 Harleys, The wifes LS1 Trans Am, LS2
in the SSR and even in the law mower 5W30 works great in all of them.
Tom
I would have to disagree with some of the statements made. Synthetic oil is not more "slippery" than a conventional oil, it is more stable under extreme conditions due to it's highly refined base stock and structure. It is not "thinner" than conventional oils, it may look that way when pouring but it retains viscosity much better under all operating conditions both hot and cold so you won't normally see the big fluctuations in hot and cold oil pressure as you would with conventional oils. It's because of this stability that it resists foaming and roping within the engine, not only retaining viscosity and flow but reducing power loss. It is good stuff and highly recomended for nearly any application. Just my 2 cents.
After reading the article, I could kind of relate. I had tried the Synthetic in my 84 Camero Z-28 and before using the synthetic I had zero oil leaks. A week after installing the synthetic I had oil leaks all over the engine. It was really a mess in the garage. I first thought I did not tighten the drain plug. I lost almost 2 quarts of oil.
I drained and flushed the synthetic out and put ole 5-30 Quaker state back in.. No more oil leaks. But what a mess. That is why I was interested in reading it.
You may be absolutely correct in what you are saying .
After reading the article, I could kind of relate. I had tried the Synthetic in my 84 Camero Z-28 and before using the synthetic I had zero oil leaks. A week after installing the synthetic I had oil leaks all over the engine. It was really a mess in the garage. I first thought I did not tighten the drain plug. I lost almost 2 quarts of oil.
I drained and flushed the synthetic out and put ole 5-30 Quaker state back in.. No more oil leaks. But what a mess. That is why I was interested in reading it.
You may be absolutely correct in what you are saying .
Mike
The cold pour point of the synthetic makes it much thinner when COLD so on an older style engine with cork gaskets you could experience seepage when sitting unlike a conventional oil. I found the same problem on an old 426 Hemi I owned but switched gaskets instead of oil. I use this kind of oil in Lawnmowers, Tractor, Gator and Ranger and have not had any leaks in these since they are better sealed than most old Detroit made engines.
My experience is exactly the same as stated in the article. Newer engines; great. Older engines; not so great. I have a 350 GM Target engine w/ 50k miles. Changed to Mobil 1, started to get seeps (enough to mess up everything, but not enought to drip). Biggest issue has been #8 valve stem seals leaking and fouling plug after only about 300 miles. I've switched back to conventional oil. I'll let you know if it stops fouling plug.
I use this kind of oil in Lawnmowers, Tractor, Gator and Ranger and have not had any leaks in these since they are better sealed than most old Detroit made engines.
Good Idea Greg,
My lawn tractor goes through some BIG temp changes and rough use. I am going to switch to Synthetic. It is a newer Honda engine, so it may not leak.
I can see a real need for this application. Thanks for the idea.
Found this interesting information on Synthetic on AOL
Flows easily, therefore not recommend for use on high mileage engines; nor do I recommend using it in new engines during the break-in period because it is so slippery and dramatically limits the wearing of new mating parts within the engine. This initial wearing of parts is what makes for proper engine break-in, sealing of piston rings, mating of camshafts and lifters, etc.
This brings up a interesting question. Was our SSR's delivered with regular oil for "Break In" or Mobil I from the start ?. This could explain some of the engine knocking when mine was new, but quit after 2 to 3 thousand miles.
My SSR: 06 Pacific Blue 23996, Born 3-13-06 Adopt 5-17-06
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Ducato
I would have to disagree with some of the statements made. Synthetic oil is not more "slippery" than a conventional oil, it is more stable under extreme conditions due to it's highly refined base stock and structure. It is not "thinner" than conventional oils, it may look that way when pouring but it retains viscosity much better under all operating conditions both hot and cold so you won't normally see the big fluctuations in hot and cold oil pressure as you would with conventional oils. It's because of this stability that it resists foaming and roping within the engine, not only retaining viscosity and flow but reducing power loss. It is good stuff and highly recomended for nearly any application. Just my 2 cents.
Greg
I agree with you plus I will increase your 2 cents and add my 3 cents.
1) with emission being a MAJOR factor on tail-pip emissions industry has
gone to simi-synthetic to help reduce emissions. This is why we have
ILSAC* GF1 through GF5 API SL which are able to run at higher
temperatures. API SA specifications are old technology and are still sold in
outlets. Not good to use in today's car's. In 2004 the Alliance of
Automobile Manufacturers did an extensive study on engine oils and the
outcome very interesting. Bottom line Lower the Grade of Oil the more
sludge and emission out the tail pipe. Same goes for older transmission
fluids. That Catalytic Converter make for hotter operationg temperatures
so simi-synthetic fluid are best and of course full (high price) synthetic are
an answer to a long over due problem.
We all have our opinions but facts are facts and we (Salerno's Auto
Servicenter) have won more pizza for shop employees betting changing
the oil and using preminum fuel (plus increase tire pressure this is my
opinion and I will stick to it) have reduced emissions. This happens within
100 to 900 miles, emission drop and of course fuel mileage goes up.
2) Today's gaskets are totally different than those of the early days of
Nitro-seal of the early 1990's special material for high heat.
So, those of us who drive a vehicle of pre-1995 and we are having oil
leaked after installing full synthetic oils partly age of vehicle, gaskets
and worn engine parts contribute to leakage. The manufactures have
been promoting high mileage oils for older car's. The above explains
what is happening to this cure the probem. You have to be careful of
what is going into your vehicle with the type of fuel used and the oil.
3) When I did engine overhauls we never put in high detergent oil in breakin
we would only use 20w or 30w to seat rings. Then we have install
semi-synthetic oils and are not having any problems. After 8K to 10K
and engine is not using any oil we will change to full synthetic if customer
request.
Cost to change every 5K or 6 months is a lot cheaper that engine
replacement or parts to replace to pass emissions.
Have a Great Day
Robert ICBlue
* International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee
My SSR: 06 Pacific Blue 23996, Born 3-13-06 Adopt 5-17-06
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael
This brings up a interesting question. Was our SSR's delivered with regular oil for "Break In" or Mobil I from the start ?. This could explain some of the engine knocking when mine was new, but quit after 2 to 3 thousand miles.
Hmm.
Mike
In 2002 and 2003 we (independent dealer's) asked about engine oils in
engines. We were advised most engine are run to test for pasing specifications for emissions. Then oil drained and tested. Filled with full
synethic and your on your way to a fuel efficent vehicle Did this happen
to all engines but that's what they said. Most engine knocking is due
to wear brake in and some stated that could be fuel grade used
My SSR: Black, '03, 1sb, #1256, License Plate was WOW FCTR
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS My R
Isn't Mobil 1 the factory recommendation for the SSR?
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael
This brings up a interesting question. Was our SSR's delivered with regular oil for "Break In" or Mobil I from the start ?. This could explain some of the engine knocking when mine was new, but quit after 2 to 3 thousand miles.
Hmm.
Mike
The 2003-2004s came with regular oil from the factory.
The 2005-2006s came with Mobil 1.
I have used regular oil in my '03 for 139,000 miles now. Oil was changed about every 8000 miles.
__________________
2003 Black SSR #1256 1sb
100000 miles (02/04/07).....
150000 miles 10/22/08
! 
! 
! 
5W30 works great in all of them.
SSR DOX WORK LIKE YOU DON'T NEED THE MONEY..LOVE LIKE YOU'VE NEVER BEEN HURT..DANCE LIKE NOBODY IS WATCHING
Linear Mode
