As title reads pretty clearly, 224/228 cam and dual spring kit are on their way along with Stainless works true dual headers and cat back. I'm doing the install myself on my dad's '05 SSR (this is his account, he only browses, never posts). I've done 2 cam and header installs on two different LS1 F-bodys and am looking forward to this challenge. Any words of advice to heed or documentation to refer to? Thanks!
Challenge is right. From what I understand, you'll need to raise the engine or lower the trans so the cam will clear part of the front end of the SSR. Try a search for more details.
BeaSSley: I can confirm that you will need to unfasten the engine mounts, unfasten the tranny, unfasten the exhaust, tilt the engine up and back, have EVERYTHING off the top back of the engine, and even then the cam will just BARELY slide out, with 1/8 inch clearance.
In fact, one of the local shops here that called me for help did so because on the specific SSR they nwere working on, even all of tat did NOT provide enough clearance for the cam to come out - they needed to cut a small notch in the inside metal around the rad area to get that cam out and the new one in.
This whole procedure of installing a new cam is described in my e-book, "The SSR Experience", whic you might want to get. See my ad in the "for sale" classfiieds on this forum, or contact me at JimGnitecki@msn.com.
You will need help to pull this off - one person should not physically attempt this alone.
Furthermore, my e-book describes why and how you should also replace the timing chain with a dual one, and the tricky oil pump suction disconnection / reconnection issue.
Watch the TOTAL NET valve lift too. By that, I mean the lift at the valves, after allowing for both cam lobe lift and rocker ratio. 0.580" has apparently been proven to work by at least one magazine. Anything ebyond that, or even that with a wilder cam, COULD be a problem. Not saying it will - just that it COULD be, as the valve train was "rptoected" by GM to only 0.555" in the design.
The cam specs you quote on duration seem ok for a naturally aspirated engine, but might be getting to too much duration if supercharging is in the plans down the road. Don't say that you can swap it again later; once you have done an SSR cam swap once, you won't be wanting to do another.
Another thing to watch out for - cam position sensor damage or disturbance. Again, after the local shop did its thing, the client, a forum member, experienced hard starts, and brought the SSR to me for a Wester remote tune to get the combiantion of cam and supercharger working right, and my diagnostic software discovered and reported an error code: DTC P0342, which indicates improper operation of the cam position sensor system. That is currently being investigated and addressed by the local shop.
Finally, the installation of the cam will require a re-tune of the computer, either on a dyno, or via a remote service by a skilled tuner, as the change will cause a BIG difference in air/fuel ratio and spark advance needs. Make sure you are equipped to do this before starting the job.
Jim,
I really appreciate the reply. Don't have much time right now and would like to ask a few questions later. Dual timing chain sounds like a good idea and the oil pump... I dealbt with on the other two on the LS1s. I'm hoping that beyond the layout of the engine compartment the internals and tear down will bear resemblance to the past two jobs. The engine tilt sounds like a pain, but the entire exhaust system will be off making this slightly easier.
Ok you'll hear more from me later, thank you sir!!
Cale: For reaasons clear only to GM, the oil pickup is reversed on the SSR versus typical Gen III engines (i.e. NOT like in Corvettes). It creates a big access problem whch will require creative addrtessing.
My SSR: 03 Redline Red,magna charger blower,Dyna Tech headers,Flowmaster American Thunder exhausts,Gears 456
In Jim's response it was my SSR he was referring to & I can assure you this is a costly proceedure as so much of the SSR has to be removed & if you have a blower it must come off also. Not inexpensive when all is said & done. replacing the timing chain is a must in my opinion & once you see the factory chain you will also agree. I also changed out the oil pump as the factory pump just looked like it was not going to do the job long term with the engine mods. I installed a high lift roller cam not for horsepower although it probably increased 40-50 hp but I wanted my SSR to have the rumpity rump at idle like my old 40 ford converible when I was a teenager (50 years ago) I( did get this effect & it sure sounds nice. Now if we can get this cam sensor/hard to start problem sloved I will be happy.
Bevan
Tear down is nearly complete after a two days of non-hasty work. Just need to tilt the motor back and slide the new cam in. Then for changing out valve springs and reassembly! Going very smoothly. No complaints other than having to completely hack the stock exhaust to pieces to get it out in fact, install is easy compared to working on LS1 motor in an F-body where half the motor is hiding underneath the cowl!! will try and get some pics up... as well as before/after dyno!
Oh I do have a comment. DO NOT cut your radiator hoses! Yea they are practically welded on, but I got inpatient, cut the hoses off the nipples and am now paying $200 for a new set of upper/lower radiator hoses. AHCK!
LOL. Snapped a few pics yesterday, was too greasy and tired after swapping out valve springs to put them up... at the office now but will get them up in a few hours!! So... yet another message to tell you to wait some more!!
achk! I have some pics but no where to host them. Does someone want to let me e-mail some of these and help a brother out? thanks.
update: working on getting the driver side header in. have the motor jacked off the mounts, the steering shaft disconnected and still having trouble. ugh.
achk! I have some pics but no where to host them. Does someone want to let me e-mail some of these and help a brother out? thanks.
update: working on getting the driver side header in. have the motor jacked off the mounts, the steering shaft disconnected and still having trouble. ugh.
I think I've gone beyond asking for patience on waiting for these pics... most of you have most likely just down right forgotten!!
Here's some eye candy.
A/C Condensor carefully placed out of the way. No disconnection of A/C system required.
in fact, install is easy compared to working on LS1 motor in an F-body where half the motor is hiding underneath the cowl!! will try and get some pics up... as well as before/after dyno!
