No. I am more the "get'er apart & see what works" type. Did want someone to call if things went awry, since I had not installed a head unit in decades, so it was ordered from Crutchfield. Called them to determine which equipment would fit & what all would be needed for it to do all I wanted it to do. Ordered everything & took my time to install (couple of days, five or so hours a day, was in garage disassembled for the weekend).
Ended up calling Crutchfield twice during install. After the first call decided it would be best to run new wire to all the speakers. All speakers were upgraded, and if I remember right the OEM Bose system caused issues (think they used odd voltage or wiring or something so I just replaced it entirely). Second call was to determine best placement of a couple of things (if I had read the install/operating manuals placement of things was probably in there, just didn't take the time).
Hmmm ok thanks for the feedback. I have the Bose head unit as well.
Advice I received here on the forums was to eliminate the Bose system in total (replace the head unit, speakers, everything in between). It was good advice, I like how the 930BT sounds with the better Polk speakers.
Advice I received here on the forums was to eliminate the Bose system in total (replace the head unit, speakers, everything in between). It was good advice, I like how the 930BT sounds with the better Polk speakers.
Yea that is actually a third option, buying the stuff from Crutchfield at a not-so discounted price (compared to Amazon) but utilize their top notch support to help me through hard spots and at least save me the installer labor rate.
Advice I received here on the forums was to eliminate the Bose system in total (replace the head unit, speakers, everything in between). It was good advice, I like how the 930BT sounds with the better Polk speakers.
Do you happen to recall the part number of the dash adapter plate you used with the install? I called up Crutchfield and the guy had no idea what to use, he didn't even know the GMS01 wiring harness was needed. They seem pretty slim on SSR support.
I think I have decided I am going to tackle the install myself. It will be more gratifying anyway even if it does cost me some extra man hours.
Do you happen to recall the part number of the dash adapter plate you used with the install? I called up Crutchfield and the guy had no idea what to use, he didn't even know the GMS01 wiring harness was needed. They seem pretty slim on SSR support.
I think I have decided I am going to tackle the install myself. It will be more gratifying anyway even if it does cost me some extra man hours.
After it was installed and working as it should I didn't keep the install info Duf. I think, but am not certain, that this is the dash plate I used:
Guys at Crutchfield I spoke with knew enough to answer my questions and tell me what was needed (some of which they had in stock and some of which I had to order elsewhere). Did happen to get a tech that was not so well informed once when calling during the install. Just pointed out my truck was all taken apart & asked him who else was there that could answer the question, like, RIGHT NOW. Tech he transferred me to knew what I needed to know.
Even with good prep I had not done a head unit install in many years and simply would not have attempted it if Crutchfield tech did not know what was needed to install & connect everything.
So you said you ripped out your Bose amp so I assume that means you used the GMS-01 harness, it looks like if I want to keep the amp/speakers I would use the GMS-04. Did you throw a back up camera on your R as well?
So you said you ripped out your Bose amp so I assume that means you used the GMS-01 harness, it looks like if I want to keep the amp/speakers I would use the GMS-04. Did you throw a back up camera on your R as well?
No idea what the harness model numbers for the chimes/steering wheel controls/etc are now Duf. Installed the 930BT head unit, HD Radio module, four speakers & wiring. Did not install the separate traffic module or a backup camera (just didn't see the need). There are threads here on the forum regarding best locations for backup camera install.
I'm sure the adapter for the steering wheel controls, with the name & part number, has been talked about in previous threads. Can't tell you where though.
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My SSR: Maybellene 2006 SSR Auto #23699 SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER Build Date: 03/02/2006
May I be so bold to suggest a parts list be posted as a 'permalink'
__________________ Mike - mikebike in Surrey BC Canada Licence plate MY SSR
2006 SSR Auto SMOKIN'ASPHALT/RICOCHET SILVER
Build Date: 03/02/2006 My SSR Photos
When I do my install I will document it as much as possible, complete with pictures and part numbers.. The one thing I did confirm is if you are going to maintain the existing Bose speakers/amp you need a GMOS-04 harness, if you are not you use a GMOS-01.
I am trying to decide if the Pioneer gee whiz, geeky ND-BC20PA back up camera with it's "park assist" feature is worth the extra $150 over the regular Pioneer camera (ND-BC4 or ND-BC5) The BC20PA has additional hardware as well which adds to the complexity of the install.
I also discovered how you can rewire the head unit harness so you aren't locked out of GPS controls when the vehicle is moving. It simply involves popping out the yellow wire and moving it to the hole directly below it. You then connect that wire and the parking brake wire to the ground wire.
I also discovered how you can rewire the head unit harness so you aren't locked out of GPS controls when the vehicle is moving. It simply involves popping out the yellow wire and moving it to the hole directly below it. You then connect that wire and the parking brake wire to the ground wire.
That is how I bypassed it Duf. Still get a warning screen at startup (or when first using the mapping if you are on the audio screen at startup). But you hit the on-screen button to get rid of that one message and the mapping/GPS works while moving without further nag messages until the car is turned off. Be nice to get rid of the startup nag message as well if anyone figures out how.
Zoom did you have any issues with the volume for your NAV guidance being very low even with the volume controls on the unit turned to max? Typically with NAV when directions are spoken it will drop the volume of the current audio source, that doesn't happen at all. I must have something not hooked up right.
Unfortunately no issues here Duf. Did have to change the preference settings to be able to hear the NAV, it was set way too low from the factory. If the top is down I set the NAV audio way up so we can hear directions even when getting on down the highway, and it can be set plenty loud. When the top is up need to manually turn it back down in the settings so it doesn't blare. But NAV (and a couple of other volume levels) can be set in the preferences and all work as they should here. After thinking about it can't even offer a suggestion as to what might be causing the low NAV volume, especially if the other volume levels work as they should.
My issue with the NAV is it doesn't work even as well as the basic NAV in my iPhone, and the way addresses are input is archaic, so it rarely gets used.
Unfortunately no issues here Duf. Did have to change the preference settings to be able to hear the NAV, it was set way too low from the factory. If the top is down I set the NAV audio way up so we can hear directions even when getting on down the highway, and it can be set plenty loud. When the top is up need to manually turn it back down in the settings so it doesn't blare. But NAV (and a couple of other volume levels) can be set in the preferences and all work as they should here. After thinking about it can't even offer a suggestion as to what might be causing the low NAV volume, especially if the other volume levels work as they should.
My issue with the NAV is it doesn't work even as well as the basic NAV in my iPhone, and the way addresses are input is archaic, so it rarely gets used.
Yep I have the NAV volume set to max. Guess it is just another reason I will be ripping it all apart.
Unfortunately no issues here Duf. Did have to change the preference settings to be able to hear the NAV, it was set way too low from the factory. If the top is down I set the NAV audio way up so we can hear directions even when getting on down the highway, and it can be set plenty loud. When the top is up need to manually turn it back down in the settings so it doesn't blare. But NAV (and a couple of other volume levels) can be set in the preferences and all work as they should here. After thinking about it can't even offer a suggestion as to what might be causing the low NAV volume, especially if the other volume levels work as they should.
My issue with the NAV is it doesn't work even as well as the basic NAV in my iPhone, and the way addresses are input is archaic, so it rarely gets used.
Zoom I have it all ripped apart and after a slight tweak on the GMOS-04 line input potentiometer I now have glass breaking volume
I am trying to address some other issues since it is already apart. I was wondering if you left the radio mounting hole untouched for your install or if you busted out the backing plate in the back?
The reason I ask is it seems like that plate prevents the 930BT from being able to slide back quite far enough? The factory radio has an L notch to it's backside to accomodate that lip but with the 930BT it creates problems.
I'm sorry I have been asking you to test your memory so often.
At least there is some light at the end of my tunnel although I have the interior of my SSR ripped apart way more than I ever imagined I would.
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Mike - mikebike in Surrey BC Canada Licence plate MY SSR 
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