Junction box - Chevy SSR Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Junction box

I said I would post again what I found to be wrong with the electrical issues people are having. Like a lot of you the car would run when it was cold but once you were in the car for a while it would shut off with no power going to the underhood junction box. There’s been a lot of said about Ing switch and a lot of you have said that you changed it. I’m wondering if the shop really changed the switch and hooking a jumper wire up inside the junction box it’s not the right answer. Still learning my way around here and don’t know how to post a picture but I’m going to try. Also I can’t wait for someone to post a response because I know I’m wrong in every way which makes me so right. All I’m doing is offering up some advice with my many years of experience working on vehicles.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Pic of switch
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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As you can see very clearly from the picture this one contact has been getting hot and when it does like any piece of metal it’s going to spring one way or the other loose contact lose power and once it cools down it will make contact again.

PS I’m retired so there’s no charge for this information.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 time View Post
Pic of switch
So is this the switch that you change on 8/24/18 which made no difference (https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f11...trical-245067/ Post 27)?
Was it broken when you removed it?


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 11:06 AM
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Isn't that the ignition switch on steering column? Are you referring to fuse box?Junction box has no switch in it.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueStreak View Post
So is this the switch that you change on 8/24/18 which made no difference (https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f11...trical-245067/ Post 27)?
Was it broken when you removed it?
I had not replaced it. I read in here that the junction box was the issue when u have these symptoms so I R&R the junction box and although I couldnít find anything wrong with it I went ahead and souldered the connections and it seemed to work for the next 30 days but as Iíve said before itís not a daily driver so it just never had a chance to act up
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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I hope we weíre talking about the same thing because that form you pointed out is talking about completely different symptoms.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 05:44 PM
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Picture 1 is Junction Box(battery cable from Battery and cable to Fuse box connects. Picture 2 & 3 is Fuse Box
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 02:32 PM
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My SSR:
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May want to look at SSR How to Library.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look up DATA LINK by Ed Borland.

SSR has Multiplex wiring, class 2. Wire carries more than one signal. DC to Millivolts/Milliamps.

Care has to taken in adding to electric system, like what is RED wire in your Fuse Box?

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-07-2018, 02:49 AM
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Dick, I believe that red wire is a fused supply for an accessory, I just cant remember what it was.
I believe that is a legitimate tap, run out through the case below the lid so as not to interfere with that.
It shouldn't interfere with any other electrical functions.
But I may be wrong, I was once in 1964.

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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