C6 Oil Pan Modifications - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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C6 Oil Pan Modifications

My winter project started out as a clutch upgrade. As usual it soon progressed to, well I might as well install some headers while I have the exhaust apart to access the clutch. Once I received the headers, another forum member needed pictures of them on a mock-up block on an engine stand. Once I did that for him, while looking at the the pictures, I realized my current modified stock oil pan was going to have interference problems with the new headers. So, now I'm on to getting one of Joe's crossmembers and looking at the C6 oil pan. It certainly looks like a better starting point for a second generation pan, though it has clearance issues also with Kooks headers. As I already had the headers coated, I wasn't inclined to cut them up and instead made the modifications to the oil pan. Photo 1 shows the interference point on the stock C6 pan - notice how far the bolt holes are from lining up. It would take significant modification to that primary tube to get clearance! Photo 2 shows the offending part of the pan, which is basically a transfer vessel to move oil from one passage to another. Photo 3 shows a simple block off plate I made to gain header clearance. I did slightly dimple the primary tube for clearance. Photo 4 shows the stock oil passages that move oil from the filter to the block passage. Photo 5 shows the ported passages transferring oil internally now instead of externally through the bolt on piece.
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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."

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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
The following are more modifications I made, to increase capacity and efficiency of the new pan. My main goal is to increase the capacity from 5.5 qts. out to 7.5 to 8 qts. Photo 1 is the C6 stock pan internally. Photo 2 is the two cutouts I made in the front floor. Photo 3 is stock external view. Photo 4 shows the two additional cutouts into the original sump area. Photo 5 is the the front sump extension parts cut out and ready to be welded. Looking at the stock pan internally, the center small rectangle is the area where the pickup resides. The two side pockets along with the rear pocket have transfer slots, along the floor of the pan, to feed the pickup under various conditions. To me, the pan looks most efficient under heavy braking conditions and least efficient under heavy acceleration - the opposite of what I desire. So, my added front sump area will push additional oil rearward into the two side pods to keep the pickup fed under acceleration. I kept the center pickup area closed, to the front sump, so oil can't migrate away during braking. I also kept the original front pan area intact, in the center, to drain back oil directly into the pickup area.
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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."

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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Nothing much here except finished pictures. Just waiting for some new rod bolts to install before bolting this on.
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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."

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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 11:58 AM
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I was just thinking... Damn, I wish I lived near Topspin! Then I thought I couldn't afford to live near Topspin (or Blackie for that matter)

Seriously, I love the detailed work you do to improve or solve a problem. Keep stimulating our imaginations
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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by IFytFyrs View Post
I was just thinking... Damn, I wish I lived near Topspin! Then I thought I couldn't afford to live near Topspin (or Blackie for that matter)

Seriously, I love the detailed work you do to improve or solve a problem. Keep stimulating our imaginations
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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 12:37 PM
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Oil Pan

Quote:
Originally Posted by IFytFyrs View Post
I was just thinking... Damn, I wish I lived near Topspin! Then I thought I couldn't afford to live near Topspin (or Blackie for that matter)

Seriously, I love the detailed work you do to improve or solve a problem. Keep stimulating our imaginations
I know what ya mean. I use to live about 30 miles up the road from him but did'nt own my SSR then. Now I live in NC. Mike.
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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 12:38 PM
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Does the 05/06 motor have the hole thru the center of the pan? For you 04/03 owners it is a shocker to look thru the front hub from right to left and see out the other side when the hub caps are off

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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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Thanks all, for the kind words. I saw once a community somewhere, that was inhabited by car people, with a huge community garage with multiple lifts and bays and various tools for their common use. Maybe SSR Village is what we need?!

Jimbob, here's my 05 pan stock and with the tube removed and welded.
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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."

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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 01:24 PM
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Nice Job! I wonder if you could use some button head bolts for the block off plate to gain a wee bit more clearance? It has become a common fastener in our industry.


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post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Greg you're right on the money, as usual. They're on my hardware list for tomorrow. The problem I've found with real small button heads, is the darn allen relief is so small that you really can't get proper torque on the fastener. I know the current set on my intake manifold are junk now, just getting them to proper torque. Of course they weren't grade 8, but standard stainless which probably is around grade 5 at best.

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post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 02:06 PM
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WOW Topspin, awesome information. I know if I were down the street from you, Id be over watching and getting in the way, etc.
Anyway Im not a mechanic so this may be a dumb question . Why cant that little simple block off plate be welded on?



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post #12 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, RRR. You're right, I could have welded that up, but I still want future access to that area for potential further oil system mods.

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post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 06:58 PM
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Very nice work!!

The Kooks headers seemed to have changed a bit. It appears that the primary tube was moved closer to the pan in the later ones.

I sent a new bypass plate over to Hank to have him try out. It is alot thinner then the stock one.

I like how you modified the passage to use a flat plate.

Keep up the great work!!


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post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-11-2011, 12:04 AM
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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-11-2011, 04:58 AM
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Greg you're right on the money, as usual. They're on my hardware list for tomorrow. The problem I've found with real small button heads, is the darn allen relief is so small that you really can't get proper torque on the fastener. I know the current set on my intake manifold are junk now, just getting them to proper torque. Of course they weren't grade 8, but standard stainless which probably is around grade 5 at best.
The Torx bit heads have an advatage over the allen heads, in that you can usually get a bigger torx bit, but they don't fit as flush either. Of course, both the torx and the allen can be a problem if you round out the fastener hole, but we find the torx more forgiving.


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post #16 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-11-2011, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Joe, I just took a look at the parts you sent - Top Notch definitely!

Hey Bruce, .

Greg, I'll have to take a look at the torx heads. Thanks, for the tip.

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post #17 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 04:10 PM
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The Torx bit heads have an advatage over the allen heads, in that you can usually get a bigger torx bit, but they don't fit as flush either. Of course, both the torx and the allen can be a problem if you round out the fastener hole, but we find the torx more forgiving.
I think the Torx, if they do bugger up, leave a little more head to grind a couple flats on.

Often wrong...... but never in doubt.
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post #18 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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Just because I had it out showing someone, here's the original ( famous or infamous depending on who you talk to ) bat-wing LS1 Corvette oil pan. I'd sell it if someone was building an LS powered street rod, as it would look cool in an open engine compartment.
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post #19 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 03:36 PM
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You need a service manual to change the oil?
What hath God wrought...
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post #20 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2011, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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Yeah Bruce, I got a chuckle out of that too. Speaking of changing oil, this new pan looks like it's impossible to get all the old oil out, with all the compartments. I'm contemplating another drain plug in the rear chamber?

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post #21 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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Here's the finished system ready to go in. The second picture is of Leftcoast32's very slick compressor bracket- I did a trial fit and it works as advertised!
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post #22 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
05 6 sp. with 4.56 gears, ZR1 clutch, Edelbrock intake, Lunati cam, Crane rockers, C6 modified pan
Big surprise last night. I went to install the new dipstick tube, after installing the pan, lines, and headers, and low and behold the block passage wasn't drilled completely through. The stock truck pan has the tube port in it, and doesn't use the block port. I never really checked it closely until now,. and was caught off guard. So, if you're converting to the C6 pan make sure to check it out, before installation!! I really should have known, as I didn't remove any plug that would have had to be there.

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post #23 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
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Big surprise last night. I went to install the new dipstick tube, after installing the pan, lines, and headers, and low and behold the block passage wasn't drilled completely through. The stock truck pan has the tube port in it, and doesn't use the block port. I never really checked it closely until now,. and was caught off guard. So, if you're converting to the C6 pan make sure to check it out, before installation!! I really should have known, as I didn't remove any plug that would have had to be there.
It's drilled. There a mini freeze plug that needs to be knocked out.
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post #24 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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That makes sense, as I couldn't imagine that it wouldn't be machined already. With the headers and starter in, I just couldn't see in there very well. Did all my mock up work on the engine stand with a different block.

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post #25 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 07:18 PM
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There is a small freeze plug in the port for the dipstick tube for the block. Just pop it out from the inside with a small diameter punch.

I actually had to drill out an '04 5.3 block a few months back. We just drilled it from the inside, was real easy with the stock pan off.


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post #26 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 07:40 PM
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Big surprise last night...
Well that sucks.

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post #27 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
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My winter project started out as a clutch upgrade. As usual it soon progressed to, well I might as well install some headers while I have the exhaust apart to access the clutch. Once I received the headers, another forum member needed pictures of them on a mock-up block on an engine stand. Once I did that for him, while looking at the the pictures, I realized my current modified stock oil pan was going to have interference problems with the new headers. So, now I'm on to getting one of Joe's crossmembers and looking at the C6 oil pan. It certainly looks like a better starting point for a second generation pan, though it has clearance issues also with Kooks headers. As I already had the headers coated, I wasn't inclined to cut them up and instead made the modifications to the oil pan. Photo 1 shows the interference point on the stock C6 pan - notice how far the bolt holes are from lining up. It would take significant modification to that primary tube to get clearance! Photo 2 shows the offending part of the pan, which is basically a transfer vessel to move oil from one passage to another. Photo 3 shows a simple block off plate I made to gain header clearance. I did slightly dimple the primary tube for clearance. Photo 4 shows the stock oil passages that move oil from the filter to the block passage. Photo 5 shows the ported passages transferring oil internally now instead of externally through the bolt on piece.
Wow. Nice job.. You rule dude. I love what you did. Very nice output from your project. Makes me think what will you do next.
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post #28 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Pau, Thanks much for the kind words! Looks like you're relatively new to the forum, so Welcome! You'll find there's some sharp people hanging around here, that will normally find a solution to any problem. Myself, I'm just an old hotrodder that enjoys tinkering with things. A couple years back I worked up an Edelbrock intake manifold for my R, that you might find interesting, if you're into one-off stuff. You'll have to search "Edelbrock Intake Manifold", as I don't know how to post the link to it.

As for what's next, I'm really anxious to get started on building a large cubic inch combination for the R. In fact, both the Edelbrock intake and the recent ZR1 clutch installations were made in anticipation of the demands of the larger engine. The poor economy set back my timetable somewhat though. If there's interest, I could document that build as I progress.

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post #29 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 03:41 PM
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post #30 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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Thanks, my friend!

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