C6 oil pan upgrade - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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C6 oil pan upgrade

Hi Everyone
I'm looking into doing the oil pan upgrade and was wondering a few things .
#1 is it hard to install ?
#2 how long does it take to install ?
#3 how many quarts of oil does it hold ?
#4 what size oil filter can you run ?
#5 can you install in a driveway or leave it to a professional with a lift ?

I already have the LC32 crossmember and Mike's stiffening plate .
I ordered the LC32 AC billet adapter.

These are the part # that have been on previous threads .
12624617 oil pan
12579787 dip stick tube
12570788 dip stick
12624497 pick up tube

#6 Is there any other parts involved ?

Thanks for any information . Dave
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 10:17 PM
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You can purchase all the components as a kit from Crate Engine Depot - part number SSPK

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You might want to re-check with Crate Engine - the new info for SSPK only shows the oil pan, not the dipstick, dipstick carrier or oil pick up tube.

Looks like you're ready to go with everything you need except the pan kit.

I had a mechanic friend do it on his hoist. Much easier than lying on the floor. He had to loosen one side of the steering rack, but I can't remember if that was to install the LC32 front crossmember or the oil pan.

I think it took him about 4 hours with me getting in the way.

It would be really tight to try to use one of the longer filters. I use an AC Delco PF48. Alternative would be Mobil M1-113.

I run 7 quarts of oil. I filled the oil pan, then marked the dipstick to indicate correct level.
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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 10:22 PM
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I had a whole response typed up, but it looks like Ray has beat me to it........

Ray is spot on.

Regards,

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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 10:41 PM
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How much work is it and can it be done with out a lift?

About how long would it take the average mechanic doing it for the first time?
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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 12:46 AM
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I am currently working on my SSR and at one point almost made the C-6 Oil Pan change. I don't plan on racing my R so I think what I have done to it so far will give me the performance I want for the street. I will post all I did to it once I am done, still have a few things to install to get her going. The reason for the post is that I have a 2005 -2013 Oil Pan (w/o supercharger), the pick up tube, Dip stick tube and dip stick that I bought and will not be using them at all. The oil pan I got used on E-bay for $200 the rest I got from GM same part # you have on your list except for the Oil Pan has a GM # 12598186 which was replaced by 12624617 and is the same Pan according to GM. If you want to save a few bucks let me know I'll let all go shipped for $165.00

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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stlhotrod View Post
How much work is it and can it be done with out a lift?

About how long would it take the average mechanic doing it for the first time?
I agree with @Flassh . The only thing I can add is call Joe Delano, as stated in other posts on the topic.

I ordered the AC mount, which comes with the trans close out from Joe, then ordered the kit from Crate Engine depot. The kit is cheaper than getting the parts individually. The kit contained the pan & gasket, oil pickup & o-ring, dipstick tube & o-ring, dipstick and new pan bolts. I ordered the kit last fall (2018).

The only things I had to make were new brackets for the wire looms, two on the front of the pan, and one on the passenger side. One could tie wrap them, but I couldnít.

I did it on jack stands. FWIW: I used a flattened TV box and quilted flannel shirt, no creeper. It took < a day, as Iím slow and I like to study (and overthink) things. Plus I had to clean everything and re-wax the crossmember and stiffening plate. Yíall do that right?

The longest part was waiting the 24h for the RTV to fully cure (I read the instructions) before dumping the oil in and firing her back up. I confirmed with Joe later, waiting was the correct call unless you are using quicker setting stuff that shops have access to.

Iíve got the procedure typed up and a few pics, I just need to get it posted.

- Robert
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:02 AM
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On jack stands.

I was 80 when I did it in my garage on jack stands.

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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 09:09 AM
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I was 80 when I did it in my garage on jack stands.

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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flassh View Post
You can purchase all the components as a kit from Crate Engine Depot - part number SSPK

Search Page

You might want to re-check with Crate Engine - the new info for SSPK only shows the oil pan, not the dipstick, dipstick carrier or oil pick up tube.

Looks like you're ready to go with everything you need except the pan kit.

I had a mechanic friend do it on his hoist. Much easier than lying on the floor. He had to loosen one side of the steering rack, but I can't remember if that was to install the LC32 front crossmember or the oil pan.

I think it took him about 4 hours with me getting in the way.

It would be really tight to try to use one of the longer filters. I use an AC Delco PF48. Alternative would be Mobil M1-113.

I run 7 quarts of oil. I filled the oil pan, then marked the dipstick to indicate correct level.

Thanks Ray and everyone .
I'm still not sure if I will do it myself .
It wasn't clear in past threads how much oil was required and the filter used .

So I have a few more questions .
#1 Is 7 quarts overfilling by 1 quart like we do with the stock pan ?
#2 what did you do with the sensor that is in the new pan ? Take it out and plug it or leave it in .
#3 what is the difference between the OEM M1-107a and M1-113a ? They look exactly the same .
#4. Why did you do the pan upgrade , for performance or peace of mind ? Maybe both !
#5 Are you satisfied with the results / worth the investment ?
Thanks again ,Dave
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey red View Post
Thanks Ray and everyone .
I'm still not sure if I will do it myself .
It wasn't clear in past threads how much oil was required and the filter used .

So I have a few more questions .
#1 Is 7 quarts overfilling by 1 quart like we do with the stock pan ?
#2 what did you do with the sensor that is in the new pan ? Take it out and plug it or leave it in .
#3 what is the difference between the OEM M1-107a and M1-113a ? They look exactly the same .
#4. Why did you do the pan upgrade , for performance or peace of mind ? Maybe both !
#5 Are you satisfied with the results / worth the investment ?
Thanks again ,Dave
1 - capacity on the LS2 Corvette was 5.5 quarts. LS3 went up to 6 quarts. Dry sump ZR1 is at 10.5 quarts.

So I would say that 7 quarts is overfilling by one quart, but I'm not aware of anyone having a problem as a result of overfilling the sump.

2 - I left the sensor in place. I had asked the engine builder to plug it with a brass plug, but that didn't happen.

3 - I have no idea of the difference between the two Mobil filters. Possibly a difference in materials or valves? I went with the number that Joe Delano recommended.

4 - I replaced the oil pan after I installed the supercharger. It seemed silly to have all that extra engine performance, and be risking oil starvation in a front sump pan. Having the better pan design was definitely peace of mind.

I had no idea how bad the stock pan was until we removed it. There are no baffles of any kind, so nothing to prevent the oil from migrating away from the front pickup on hard acceleration.

5 - Peace of mind makes it a good investment. The bonus for me was getting rid of a 10 year oil leak which was assumed to be a rear main seal leak. It was apparently a poor factory installation on the oil pan, likely not enough sealant at one of the rear corners because the leak was gone when the new pan went on.
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post #11 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey red View Post
Thanks Ray and everyone .
I'm still not sure if I will do it myself .
It wasn't clear in past threads how much oil was required and the filter used .

So I have a few more questions .
#1 Is 7 quarts overfilling by 1 quart like we do with the stock pan ?
#2 what did you do with the sensor that is in the new pan ? Take it out and plug it or leave it in .
#3 what is the difference between the OEM M1-107a and M1-113a ? They look exactly the same .
#4. Why did you do the pan upgrade , for performance or peace of mind ? Maybe both !
#5 Are you satisfied with the results / worth the investment ?
Thanks again ,Dave
#1 7 quarts is +1 from standard level. I run 6 quarts.
#2 Leave it. Confirmed with Joe and Mike
#3 Dunno. I run what Joe told me. UPDATED: M1-113A
#4 Performance and peace of mind.
#5 Yes. The stock pan is a crazy compromise. The stock pan is front sump, with no baffles and essentially an internal remote mount oil filter. The Corvette pan is a rear sump with simple baffles that is much shallower. It really opens up the bottom of the engine air flow, and your can install the second diverter air with the LC32 brace.

My 2c. YMMV
- Robert
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post #12 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:42 PM
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@Flassh - LOL, you beat me too!

Spot on reply.
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post #13 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info @Flassh and @TXNSSR
I had to pick up a oil filter for my sons car and took a look at both of the M1-107a and M1-113a ,
They are identical in appearance, there is some internal difference when I looked inside .
Dave
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post #14 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Jersey red View Post
Thanks for the info @Flassh and @TXNSSR
I had to pick up a oil filter for my sons car and took a look at both of the M1-107a and M1-113a ,
They are identical in appearance, there is some internal difference when I looked inside .
Dave
Updated post below with the filter. I found the pics of the pans side by side. Iíll post them in a day or two.

- Robert
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post #15 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 10:05 AM
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post #16 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 11:38 AM
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"I had no idea how bad the stock pan was until we removed it. There are no baffles of any kind, so nothing to prevent the oil from migrating away from the front pickup on hard acceleration. "

Assuming one follows the recommendation to add an extra quart and thus overfill the stock pan, I have a hard time believing the front sump pickup would get "starved" even briefly under "hard acceleration".
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post #17 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by moscooter View Post


"I had no idea how bad the stock pan was until we removed it. There are no baffles of any kind, so nothing to prevent the oil from migrating away from the front pickup on hard acceleration. "

Assuming one follows the recommendation to add an extra quart and thus overfill the stock pan, I have a hard time believing the front sump pickup would get "starved" even briefly under "hard acceleration".
Obviously you should continue running the stock pan.


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post #18 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 12:00 PM
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"I had no idea how bad the stock pan was until we removed it. There are no baffles of any kind, so nothing to prevent the oil from migrating away from the front pickup on hard acceleration. "

Assuming one follows the recommendation to add an extra quart and thus overfill the stock pan, I have a hard time believing the front sump pickup would get "starved" even briefly under "hard acceleration".
I log oil pressures every time I am tuning. The stock pan will show a drop in pressure every time during hard acceleration, even with the extra quart added. The extra court is just a marginal bandaid for the downfall of the front sump pan. The returning oil sloshes to the rear at the same time the pickup tube empties the front sump,.
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post #19 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 12:55 PM
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What would be the "not to exceed" length of time accompanying "hard acceleration" that might lead to an issue detrimental to the engine with the stock oil pan?

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post #20 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 01:04 PM
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My question is how many have had to have engines replaced because of bad lower ends from the poor oil pan design?
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post #21 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 01:26 PM
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My question is how many have had to have engines replaced because of bad lower ends from the poor oil pan design?
You beat me to it buddy. I was going to ask the same question
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post #22 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 02:04 PM
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My question is how many have had to have engines replaced because of bad lower ends from the poor oil pan design?
Only heard of 1 motor failure on this site since I have been a member in 2014 and they were not sure why it failed. Some have logged over 250,000 miles and still running strong. Think it is just one of those preventative maintenance issues.
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post #23 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 02:05 PM
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Here are a few pics.

1) Top view - the front of the pans are on the bottom of the pic, stock SSR pan on the right
2) Side view - the front of the pans are on the right side of the pic, stock SSR pan in back
3) Front view - stock SSR pan on the right.

For those that plan to do this, note the brackets on the front and passenger side of the stock pan.
The new pan has Joeís alternator bracket hanging on the pan bolts for show.
The front view also shows the brackets I made as I was roughing them out. I also made one for the passenger side.

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post #24 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 04:47 PM
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Why tp they look so different in size, because they're leaning opposite ways?
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post #25 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 08:35 PM
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Why tp they look so different in size, because they're leaning opposite ways?
I would say yes. The stock one sits more horizontal with respect to the top surface, than the Corvette pan. Subsequently the Corvette dips away in the front and there is an aspect ratio issue. I probably didnít hold the camera perfectly parallel to the ground too. As I recall, all these pictures were taken without moving the pans.

Hopefully yíall can see what I meant by sort of an internal remote oil filter with the lines that run from the back of the pan to the middle on the stock SSR pan. In comparison the Corvette pan having the oil filter in the back (drivers side) right where the lines come from the block. The stock SSR oil pickup is in the big hole in the front of the stock pan and there is no baffling. The Corvette pickup is back big area of the pan, between the baffles, which is the lowest point and where all the oil is all the time naturally.

From the side view, you can really see why the rear sump would be better under acceleration and how much thinner the front of the Corvette oil pan is.

FWIW: The Corvette pan fits great, actually better, leaving quite a bit more room between it and the stiffening plate.

Here is another pic, where I apparently held the camera closer to the plane of the Corvette pan.

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post #26 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005SSR6Speed View Post
I log oil pressures every time I am tuning. The stock pan will show a drop in pressure every time during hard acceleration, even with the extra quart added. The extra court is just a marginal bandaid for the downfall of the front sump pan. The returning oil sloshes to the rear at the same time the pickup tube empties the front sump,.
How much oil pressure drop are you seeing with the stock pan and what is the improvement with the Corvette pan? I just wondered what the improvement was between the two?
Thanks
Bruce
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post #27 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 12:06 PM
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How much oil pressure drop are you seeing with the stock pan and what is the improvement with the Corvette pan? I just wondered what the improvement was between the two?
Thanks
Bruce
Bruce

Each vehicle depending on modifications and traction cause different drops in pressure. The 1 quart extra is a good bandaid for a lightly driven SSR. When you have a heavy foot or modifications that improve acceleration we start to see the drop anywhere from down to 20 psi to even 0 psi on some. The stock engines feed the cam bearings first and they usually show the most wear along with the rod and main bearings.

We have tested the C6 Pan on the dyno to over 8k RPM with aftermarket pumps and see no drop in pressure.

Thanks
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post #28 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 03:29 PM
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My question is how many have had to have engines replaced because of bad lower ends from the poor oil pan design?
Still no answer or comment has been posted.


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post #29 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 05:09 PM
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When I first joined the fanatics there was a member in Texas. He was a tuba teacher. I am very sorry to say he has passed on and I can not remember his name. Maybe someone here will know and post it. If I remember correctly his engine was ruined by oil starvation.

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post #30 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 05:22 PM
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Take a gander over at TBSSowners.com to see how many people ruined their engines by starving them for oil. It is much more common over there because TBSS owners tend to not only drive their trucks more but they usually drive them much harder. Trailblazer SS trucks aren't garage queens as much as they serve a different crowd. No one really holds on to a Trailblazer as a collector's item. And, as such, Trailblazer SS owners aren't afraid to flog them for fun...and often.
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