Problem With Supercharged SSR, fuel? electrical? something else? help! - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Problem With Supercharged SSR, fuel? electrical? something else? help!

Greetings from new member DRdj - recently purchased a 2005 Supercharged SSR, drove a couple of hundred miles without incident, then all of sudden, it quit, no warning, no sound, no check engine light, etc. Waited a couple of minutes, restarted without a problem, drove another few miles, same thing, start, drive, stop. Got so bad I finally had to have it towed. Gave every indication of a bad crankcase sensor (plus computer indicated same), changed out and nothing - same problem. Have checked fuel lines, filter, pump, nothing. Wondering if it might be electrical? Computers indicated all is well, nothing else out of the ordinary. When it does run, smooth as a baby's butt; no excessive noise or sounds when it quits, nothing unusual when it restarts. Do not have the foggiest idea what is going on, can someone help?
Regards,
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:47 PM
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Do you have an '05 or '06? It may be the dreaded fuse box wire failure. Symptoms are it runs fine until it warms up and then quits. Starts back up after a cool down period, and then quits again. There IS a Fix here cheaper than a New fuse box, if it can be found.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Hello Yellow Bear - thanks for the info, mine is a 2005, sounds like you describe - although the other day it was dong it's "thang" when the engine was cold, up until that point we thought it was the crank sensor, changed out to no effect, still exhibiting the same problem.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:07 PM
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:26 PM
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This may get you started for ideas. Besides the fusebox issue there are also numerous ground wires on the frame that could be the culprit as well. Good luck but I'm sure more help is coming!
https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D...F39D9F5ADCE5E5
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:56 PM
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Also ignition switches go out pretty regular. Those three things should give you a place to start. If it is the fuse box you cannot see the broken wire to the naked eye. There are several guys on this Forum that make a jumper wire and also several that can rebuild or re-solder your fuse box if that is what it is. Good luck. A big hearty welcome from sunny Sturgis South Dakota.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDJ View Post
Greetings from new member DRdj - recently purchased a 2005 Supercharged SSR, drove a couple of hundred miles without incident, then all of sudden, it quit, no warning, no sound, no check engine light, etc. Waited a couple of minutes, restarted without a problem, drove another few miles, same thing, start, drive, stop. Got so bad I finally had to have it towed. Gave every indication of a bad crankcase sensor (plus computer indicated same), changed out and nothing - same problem. Have checked fuel lines, filter, pump, nothing. Wondering if it might be electrical? Computers indicated all is well, nothing else out of the ordinary. When it does run, smooth as a baby's butt; no excessive noise or sounds when it quits, nothing unusual when it restarts. Do not have the foggiest idea what is going on, can someone help?
Regards,
Don
Dragon2U is from Warner Robins, GA and he can fix the fuse box for you.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:40 PM
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It's easy enough to test for the fuse box issue.
Do you own or have access to a voltmeter or 12v test light and know how to use either.
When the wire gets hot and expands due to the heat caused by the resistance of the break it causes relay #42 to shut down. This relay provides power to I believe 6 fuses in the under hood fuse box. This can be diagnosed by test for voltage on those fuses when the truck won't start. I have prepared a chart showing which fuses they are. I will be explaining this test procedure during my tech lesson at he Maggie valley rally. I will also have copies of the charts for all attendees. I will post the chart you need after dinner. I don't have access to those files from my phone
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:54 PM
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DrDJ, Welcome From Forney Texas. If you are capable, do what "Autoprof" suggest. Other ideas are good as well. Also someone close by may offer a helping hand. Hang in there. If you haven't yet, go the "New Member" section and introduce yourself.

Edit: just saw your New Member post

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 04:40 PM
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check fuse holder to supercharger, red power. mine was doing the same last year and melted the fuse holder. change out fuseholder red power. toke a month checking grounds and saw smoke coming from it. no problem since.
I posted this problem last year
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:59 PM
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@1BADSSR CDN also has a good point - I am not familiar with the modification you need to do for supercharger.

Attached is the under hood fuse box chart I mentioned in a previous post.
Check the fuses highlighted in green when the truck won't start with the key in the RUN position.
If you have low or no voltage (or a weak or no test light) compared to ground (black lead or test light clip on ground) on these fuses --- suspect a fuse box failure. It could still be a bad relay or a problem with the wiring from the fuse box, but because fuse box is a common failure I would stat there. (BE sure to test other fuses for voltage to make sure your meter, ground connection and or test light is functioning properly.) You could let it cool and see if your results change just to satisfy the test procedure.

If you have good voltage on both sides of all of these fuses ----- look elsewhere for your problem.

I hope this helps and once again

Welcome from Central Ohio
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:58 PM
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Do have a Magnacharger? If so this might help. About 6 weeks ago I driving on the highway at 70 m/h and after about 20 miles it just stopped like no gas, pulled over and won't start,dead battery. call for tow. charged battery 6 hours later driving and after about 5 miles same thing, like ran out of gas,but full tank,I filled up in the morning first time this year, pulled over and restarted and went for a couple of miles, same thing 5 times ,then would not start call for tow again.get home in garage and starts for about 5 minutes and stalls. didn't want to get tow#3. checking things lie gas cap, fuel pump, battery, fuse box and changed ignition switch. read about fuse box problems and banging my head against the wall for weeks
.(don't make me take it in for repairs) and get a couple thousand $dollar bill.
I was looking for codes but none came up. getting ready to empty full gas tank to change fuel pump started it up looking for codes with the hood up and I see a little smoke from engine, shut off and look nothing ,start up again and see smoke again, this time coming from fuse holder from powering MAGNA_VOLT and pulled it apart as it was melting. The fuse is a 30amp I believe, I can't tell it burned and all I can see is a 3 and I checked the Installation Instructions and can't find fuse size anywhere. So I replaced the fuse hold and 30 amp fuse going to the intercooler/magnavolt. Powers fuel pump for magnachager.
That explains why NO CODES, after market supercharger. Every thing seems good now, driving again last couple of days and no issues. After 12 years of washing the engine, must have got moisture in fuse holder.
CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF 30AMP IS RIGHT FOR MAGNA_VOLT
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 09:30 PM
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Do you have a Magnavolt unit on top of your fuse box lid? They tend to burn the electrical connector on the back edge.

My best suggestion is to start it in the driveway and let it idle. While running, you can use a heat gun or a strong blow dryer (donít let your wife catch you using her good one) to heat up the Magnavolt unit and then the fuse box. If you have a heat related failure, it will show up......

Regards,

Mike

One of the "Blues Brothers"

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:14 AM
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Like Mike said, the connector on the back of the Magnavolt may be the culprit. It has been on mine, and has done exactly as you indicated. You can try wiggling the wires coming out of the back of the connector, while the engine is running, to see if it cuts out. Our just pull the connector and look at the contacts. Do they look burned? Could only be one connector in the plug is not making a good contact. I used a Jeweler's screwdriver to "bend" the tangs on the connectors that looked squashed ( may have been a PO testing the connector with something like a voltmeter, jamming the probe into the connector). Doing this solved my problem.

I tested mine with a Fuel Pressure gauge hooked up. You could see the fuel pressure go from 60-0 as the wires were wiggled.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hello HAUW - and thank you, I appreciate!!
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Hello Auggie Doggie; ROPE; AUTOPROF; 1BADASS CDN; MIKE IN AZ; DARBYSAN - I appreciate the terrific welcome to SSRFanatics and all the information. You guys (and ladies) have been so helpful, I will advise when up and running - should anyone end up in the Savannah, Georgia area let me know!!
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:48 PM
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Hello HAUW - and thank you, I appreciate!!
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We are ALL just one Big Fanatic Family! Hope you get it all figured out! 😉


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