How To: Detail, Paint Correction, General Car Care - Page 3 - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #61 of 174 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ohhawk View Post
No, don't believe so. No too many around here although I met an owner of a red one here in Des Moines several year's ago but he lived in Des Moines. He did sell it so who knows maybe the same vehicle? It was an '04 with auto.
Ok, when I bought mine from Green Bay at the end of April this year, we drove back and stopped at a BnB south of Des Moines and saw a red SSR in that small town the next morning, that's why I was asking. oh well.
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post #62 of 174 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 09:15 PM
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Detailing Tip

When waxing your SSR in the lower rocker panel area, use a mask made of a thin piece of cardboard- like a cereal box- between the rocker and the running boards. This will prevent wax and the resultant wax residue from staining the rubber on the boards and still allow you to reach with a foam applicator pad deep into the side of the rocker panel.
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post #63 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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My normal routine when washing is to start with the wheels first. Here's a few of the tools I use for a normal wheel cleaning. My rims are chrome so after the cleaning I blow them off with a leaf blower and then wipe them dry and streak free.

The two buckets and multiple mitts are for the exterior of course.

I use the long handle brush for the tires and wheel wells, the big red bristled brush for the inner rim drums, no need for the lug nut brush but it's there anyways then the wash mitt for the spokes and general rim area, then the 1 inch bores hair brush for the crevices, hard angles and hollow area on the spoke and area around the air valve stem. The little yellow finger mitts can be used for baked on brake dust or greasy tar or what have you slung up from the road as needed. The blue mitt will never touch the exterior yellow paint other then for under the rockers and running boards.




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post #64 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 03:27 PM
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My SSR:
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I was taught to wash from the top down

= wheels last

as the stuff washed off runs down contaminating anything below the point I start at.

I spray the wheels with water at the same time I rinse the rest of the SSR before starting to clean it.
I live next to the main N S freeway to the US and have a daily coating of brake/clutch dust, rubber and carbon along with lots of pollen from the trees.

I can write my name in the amount overnight<SAD>
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post #65 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mikebike View Post
I was taught to wash from the top down

= wheels last

as the stuff washed off runs down contaminating anything below the point I start at.

I spray the wheels with water at the same time I rinse the rest of the SSR before starting to clean it.
I live next to the main N S freeway to the US and have a daily coating of brake/clutch dust, rubber and carbon along with lots of pollen from the trees.

I can write my name in the amount overnight<SAD>

I too was taught this way and top down is still true but wheels last is not what I do anymore and haven't for a long time....

Mainly most are probably taught wheels last because they're using the same buckets for the wheels as they are for the car and they don't want to wash the car with disgusting dirty greasy water therefore the wheels are last.

I use a completely separate bucket for the wheels/rims and I do them first cause when cleaned thoroughly with all the brushes and such that I use it takes a bit more time then just a quick wipe off would and in that time the water will be sitting on the body of the SSR drying which leads to water spots.

So I do the wheels first then hose down and wash the exterior and dry it immediately after I finish in hopes to avoid any unnecessary water marks.

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post #66 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 05:58 PM
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Question

Josh, what is the best (easiest!) way to clean the plastic inner fenderwells? You know, that won't kill an old man's back! What products do you recommend? Thanks.

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post #67 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Josh, what is the best (easiest!) way to clean the plastic inner fenderwells? You know, that won't kill an old man's back! What products do you recommend? Thanks.

===============
David
I just use a long handle brush and soapy water. The SSR inner wells are super flimsy though and move around way too much while cleaning them so they're a little annoying, it's like they're not attached to anything at all....

No way to do it without hurting your back unless you have a lift in your garage and take the wheels off and sit in a chair....

However if they're old and faded after you get them good and clean to your liking you can take some tire shine and rub it on them with an old cloth or what have you to make them darken up a bit if need be.

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post #68 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrior=='06 View Post
Josh, what is the best (easiest!) way to clean the plastic inner fenderwells? You know, that won't kill an old man's back! What products do you recommend? Thanks.

===============
David
I use spray-on tire foam cleaner/shine. When it drips off and dries, it looks great. Nice & black. I use it on the front air dam too.


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post #69 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Dog View Post
I use spray-on tire foam cleaner/shine. When it drips off and dries, it looks great. Nice & black. I use it on the front air dam too.
====================
Thanks Ron.

Sounds like that might save some back-bending!!

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post #70 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 08:07 AM
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Cleaning Inner Fenderwells

I can't offer any "easy" method of cleaning these but use a strong, water-based cleaner like Super Clean and a coarse Scotchbrite-like pad to scrub the caked-on debris off the inner fender liners.
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post #71 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 10:50 AM
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Where are you guys driving your SSR's? I don't take mine off roading or out when it is raining. Sometimes you get caught in it I know. But "CAKED ON MUD"? Most times mine is still spotless when I put it away or it may have the front covered in bugs so I wipe the area down with a warm moist micro fiber cloth to get all the bugs off and then wipe it down with detailer and put it back in the temp controlled garage so it is ready for next time. Takes about 10 minutes. Always do the tires and wheels last while parked in the garage.
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post #72 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I use spray-on tire foam cleaner/shine. When it drips off and dries, it looks great. Nice & black. I use it on the front air dam too.
If it's in an airsole can just make sure you don't get the overspray mist on the side of the R. Nothing like have a perfect looking R with little tiny dots all over and on the windows. I've made that mistake before....
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post #73 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 02:14 PM
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Cleaning Fenderwells

Auggie Doggie:

Living around dairy farms has its own road hazards, thus the need to clean caked on "debris" from the fenderwells.
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post #74 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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My SSR:
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How I prefer to dry my SSR. I use an electric leaf blower rated at 220+ mph.

The reasons are two fold:

1. It get most of the water out of the nooks and crannies and is much less effort.
2. It means less times rubbing a towels on the paint finish which means less chances of inducing swirls.

It takes a smidgen longer but is much safer for the finish. I also think it's easier when drying the rims and mirrors drip less and it faster to dry the grills and lights and such.

I know these pics of not an SSR but it's all I could find to choose from for now but it's still similar curves.....













Just thought I'd share.
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post #75 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 10:28 AM
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Cool

Thanks Josh. That looks like a nice '56. Do you have more pics?

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How To: Detail, Paint Correction, General Car Care-imyourhuckleberry.png
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post #76 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 12:36 PM
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Cool

Thanks for info Josh.
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post #77 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Josh. That looks like a nice '56. Do you have more pics?

===========
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Attachment 356745
After a 40+ hour detail I may have one or two more pics....











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post #78 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 04:07 PM
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Very Nice!
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post #79 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 06:58 PM
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My SSR:
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I use the kids' Electro Groom. (cattle groomer) to blow dry after wash.

Unlike a leaf blower it has a filter on the intake. It is made for blow drying and grooming show cattle.

IJS

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post #80 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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I use the kids' Electro Groom. (cattle groomer) to blow dry after wash.

Unlike a leaf blower it has a filter on the intake. It is made for blow drying and grooming show cattle.

IJS

Dave
Well that's a first I've ever heard of something like that.

..... so long as you're not pulling out hot branding irons to remove bugs......
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post #81 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 08:57 PM
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Have you ever tried this stuff Josh?

POLISHANGEL® | GOLDFINGER | GOLDWAX | 23.75 KARAT GOLD CONTENT ? POLISHANGEL® CANADA

That's CAN$ - should be a lot cheaper in the US!
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post #82 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Have you ever tried this stuff Josh?

POLISHANGEL® | GOLDFINGER | GOLDWAX | 23.75 KARAT GOLD CONTENT ? POLISHANGEL® CANADA

That's CAN$ - should be a lot cheaper in the US!
I have heard of Polish Angel brand and heard good things in general but as far as this ridiculous sounding "gold" flake wax I have not heard of it. First impression is gimmicky. It's basic marketing. Produce something so ridiculous and expensive that one personal will buy it simply due to it being the most expensive. I wonder if there's even measurable traces of gold flake in the wax. They probably just dye'd it that color and claim there's gold in it.

Not my cup of tea. You should call them and act like you're interested and find out all about it.
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post #83 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 10:06 AM
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thanks Joshvette
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post #84 of 174 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 12:25 PM
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After a 40+ hour detail I may have one or two more pics....











=============================

Josh ~~~~ Drop-dead GORGEOUS!!!!!

1956 is my favorite year of the Tri-five family and you have yourself a real beauty there. Thx for the extra pics!!! woohoo

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post #85 of 174 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Upon request, after several conversations with SSR owners at shows and over the phone I'm am posting about certain things to avoid when choosing car care products. Please keep in mind every thing I post is with the intentions of providing "proper" car care tips to prolong the life of the car finish and interior materials. No good to have a shiny dash that is all cracked and dried up right?

Not as many products to avoid as the car care industry of today is light years ahead of what was offered back in the 50's-60's and even 15 years ago. From what I've heard back then you basically had 1-2 choices, WD-40 or Armor All

Also back then the exterior paints were basically what we now call SS paint or Single Stage paint meaning Lacquer Enamel base with no protective clear coat. After 6-12 months or less if sitting outside often, it would easily begin oxidizing and need to be scrubbed fresh (cleaner wax) which is why many still believe to remove swirls, defects, flaws and scratches, it just needs a "good waxing".

Back to the original subject, what to avoid? The one major agent I always stress to avoid in all products are PETROLEUMS. Before you read any further, go into your garage, take out every single bottle of car care stuff you own, whether it be interior cleaner, interior dressings, tire shine, paint cleaner, paint waxes, glazes whatever you have and flip over the bottle are read the label. Does it say anything about Petroleum Distillates? If so, just do yourself a favor and throw it away now.

Basically you have a bottle of oil there with some other cleaners or waxes or whatever agents they put in to market it as that type of product.

So for interior products with petroleums in it you're basically rubbing oil all over the plastic and leather parts..... I know I know, it looks all shiny and clean but all it's really doing it creating an environment for which dirt, dust and everything else will stick to it and it gets all over your clothes hands. Plus oils do not nourish or soak into to the plastics or leather (as previously thought) they actually take away. Water is actually used in moisturizers for your skin so why would it be any different on a cow hide leather or plastic? You never see people putting oils on there skin to moisturize.... In other words you want your interior to last longer then use water based cleaners and conditioners not oil based.

For exteriors plastics and rubber weather stripping you would really want a pure silica compound. Silicone and Petroleum are different. Petroleum on rubber and plastic will wash off with soapy water and run down the windows and side of your SSR and create more mess also taking away any benefit you thought it would be giving you.... It kind of has a rainbow effect look in the light.

Petroleums on the paint whether it be in a wax, or a glaze will make the car finish look amazing, which is why it's so highly used in waxes. This look is created by the oils covering up or hiding the defects and flaws and swirls which in return makes the finish appear much better then it really is. I can imagine the reason Glazes are called glazes is because they literally "glaze" over the defects making them temporarily disappear. However in a few washing these oils rinse off leaving behind the reality of swirls and flaws.

So basically boils down to Petroleum based products are bad (even if they look good) and water based products are good (even though they don't look shiny).

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post #86 of 174 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 12:49 PM
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I have seen Josh's SSR and it is fantastic what he did to his Slingshot yellow finish. Looks like glass !
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post #87 of 174 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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I have seen Josh's SSR and it is fantastic what he did to his Slingshot yellow finish. Looks like glass !
Thanks, congrats on the quick sale btw.

Since you mentioned the glass look I think I'll post a quick pic that I took yesterday.


Here's a shot of direct full sunlight. You can see no swirls which is a beautiful sight which is how all of our paint finish should look...



Under the carport in the shade with the glass finish. I know reflection shots are easy when you're in the shade but still a cool pic. This is yellow after all not black.






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post #88 of 174 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 10:23 PM
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Josh:
Your SSR is beautiful and WHAT a finish. I have seen good shines before , but not like yours. Unbelievable !
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post #89 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Just refreshing this page so it'll be back to the top since I've seen a few posting topics that are related with this thread.


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post #90 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Josh:
Your SSR is beautiful and WHAT a finish. I have seen good shines before , but not like yours. Unbelievable !
Thanks Michael, would you believe I still haven't waxed it yet since I've owned it.... don't tell anyone though....
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