How To: Detail, Paint Correction, General Car Care - Page 4 - Chevy SSR Forum
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post #91 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 05:10 PM
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Hey, I really admire you guys & gals that totally into detailing your SSR's. I was that way too the first 3 or 4 years I owned her. Me, I just like a nice clean body, sparkling Chrome rims and shiny black tires !!! If mine is real dusty, I just hose her down and towel dry it, then use a liquid detailer to shine her up. After more than 7 years and 60,000 miles the "Little red truck is just a fun vehicle" and an everyday driver. Hauled a few mums in her Monday and used the shop vac to clean up the spilled dirt and broken off leaves and buds on the carpet and now she looks great again. Spray wax her at least once a week and she looks good when I walk into the garage.
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post #92 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 05:25 PM
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Hey, I really admire you guys & gals that totally into detailing your SSR's. I was that way too the first 3 or 4 years I owned her. Me, I just like a nice clean body, sparkling Chrome rims and shiny black tires !!! If mine is real dusty, I just hose her down and towel dry it, then use a liquid detailer to shine her up. After more than 7 years and 60,000 miles the "Little red truck is just a fun vehicle" and an everyday driver. Hauled a few mums in her Monday and used the shop vac to clean up the spilled dirt and broken off leaves and buds on the carpet and now she looks great again. Spray wax her at least once a week and she looks good when I walk into the garage.
COZYDOG I only had my R for a year and you had 4 years HOW CAN YOU TELL IT IS A SHE?????? HAHa
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post #93 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 05:43 PM
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COZYDOG I only had my R for a year and you had 4 years HOW CAN YOU TELL IT IS A SHE?????? HAHa
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post #94 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 05:49 PM
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post #95 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 06:40 PM
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What about "She's real fine, my 409" The 409's were beasts, but they still called the "Heavy Chevy" a "she" also had my SSR 87 months (7 years & 3 months). Just can't bring myself to call my SSR a "he" (he's real fine, my 409 !!! I'm from a different era and that's not my style) Got 3 girl cousins in the family "like that" so that's enough !!! Bob Alexander tennesseecozydog
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post #96 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 06:25 PM
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I think the main thing to understand with properly maintaining the R's is the two bucket washing process.

If anyone's not familiar, the two bucket washing system (I actually use 3 buckets) is a washing process designed to trap and isolate dirt and debris in one bucket while always using clean soapy water on the vehicle so that you're not dragging dirt particles across the finish causing micro scratches known as swirls. Also a good idea to spray off each mitt after each use.

1 bucket for rims, tires, wheel wells
1 bucket with clean soapy water
1 bucket with water to get dirty
1 electric leaf blower to dry
QD wipe down

I also use 4-5 wash mitts juuuuust incase one get dirt on it it's only touching the car 2-3 times instead of every single time I go over it during the washing process and that even further reduces the risk of swirls.

After you finish you can also take the spray nozzle off the hose and let the water flow over the vehicle which will basically drain itself and save you a little drying time. After that I use an electric leaf blower (rated over 220mph) to blow off the excess water and out of all the cracks, jambs, mirrors and such. Then a QD (quick detailer) spray and wipe down and you're good to go.

Prerinse and soapy foam soak down affter 1400 mile trip....



Two buckets with 4-5 wash mitts



QD wipe down with a good clean MF towel makes it look nice

Saw these 2 inexpensive items at AUTOGEEK and thought they would be a benefit. A grit guard and a rubber squeege.
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post #97 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Saw these 2 inexpensive items at AUTOGEEK and thought they would be a benefit. A grit guard and a rubber squeege.
I'm not a huge fan of the rubber squeege to remove water on the paint but the grit guard is definitely a must have for traditional washing.

If you use the rubber squeege and find it does not leave any marks then more power to you.
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post #98 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 08:56 PM
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What I have found to be the best Detailer for me is something called Cycle Care 33. I ran across it about 15 years ago from a friend of mine that has a motorcycle shop and that is all he uses. I started using it back then on my Harley's and several years ago I started using it on my cars and trucks also. It is for, windows, paint, plexi glass, and chrome. Takes off bugs and dust and dirt with no scratching or swirling. Spray on, wipe off and shine. No oil in it and it is silicone free. It is sold at most motorcycle shops. It comes in a 22 oz spray bottle around $16 a bottle. I buy it by the case. Lasts a long time. I wipe the R down everytime we go out. The name of the company is Cycle Care Formulas Inc. cyclecare.com Try it you will like it.
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post #99 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 06:17 PM
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Thoughts on the California Duster? I use this on my black R. I haven't had the truck detailed since I bought it in April. Swirl marks have been there from when I bought it. I'm not sure if the California Duster is causing any additional damage. It sure is easy to use. Maybe 2 minutes tops to dust the truck before taking it for a cruise.
Original California Car Duster
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post #100 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thoughts on the California Duster? I use this on my black R. I haven't had the truck detailed since I bought it in April. Swirl marks have been there from when I bought it. I'm not sure if the California Duster is causing any additional damage. It sure is easy to use. Maybe 2 minutes tops to dust the truck before taking it for a cruise.
Original California Car Duster
I'm not a huge fan of the CA duster but I will tell you the only time I personally think it's safe to use is if the car is clean but been sitting in the garage for a week or two and has that kind of dust on it. If you take it out and drive it around I would not dust it after.

I know they say it's safe and the fibers have waxes in them yada yada yada but swirls are caused from dust and dirt being dragged across the finish and the duster drags dust and dirt across the finish.....

On black you can't take any chances once you look at it the wrong way and swirls happen.
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post #101 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 05:14 PM
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I used the CA duster until I found the micro fiber variety. My '37 is black so I don't get any of the wax streaking with the micro fiber.
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post #102 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 06:06 PM
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I'm not a huge fan of the CA duster but I will tell you the only time I personally think it's safe to use is if the car is clean but been sitting in the garage for a week or two and has that kind of dust on it. If you take it out and drive it around I would not dust it after.

I know they say it's safe and the fibers have waxes in them yada yada yada but swirls are caused from dust and dirt being dragged across the finish and the duster drags dust and dirt across the finish.....

On black you can't take any chances once you look at it the wrong way and swirls happen.
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I used the CA duster until I found the micro fiber variety. My '37 is black so I don't get any of the wax streaking with the micro fiber.
My truck sits in the garage all week. On weekends, weather permitting, I take it for a spin. In lieu of the California Duster, what do you recommend to get the dust off? I'm not going to do a complete wash every time I want to take it for a spin. I'm not taking it to a car show. I just want the dust off.

What is the micro fiber variety?
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post #103 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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My truck sits in the garage all week. On weekends, weather permitting, I take it for a spin. In lieu of the California Duster, what do you recommend to get the dust off? I'm not going to do a complete wash every time I want to take it for a spin. I'm not taking it to a car show. I just want the dust off.

What is the micro fiber variety?

Unfortunately there's not a great alternative for removing that kind of dust. You can try compressed air out of a compressor and air line but other then that not a safe way to remove dust without washing.

Anytime you're wiping and dusting off you R without prerinxing and washing you are taking a chance with swirls, that's just the ugly truth. You'll just have to use your judgment. Swirls might take longer to show up as they may accumulate slower or lighter but eventually they will come back when dusting.

Please keep in mind I'm coming from a standard that borders on paranoia but as professional on a high level I have to be more strict then everyone else. It just comes with the territory.
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post #104 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:14 AM
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I got the microfiber duster on Amazon.com. If you do a search there you will find them. I love them and use them all the time. I wouldn't be inclined to want to have to keep the black '37 looking like it does with out them.
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post #105 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:17 AM
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Which Microfiber duster? So many of them get bad reviews.


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post #106 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:41 AM
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Josh, what would be your recommended procedure with a BLACK vehicle that mainly stays uncovered in a garage that is driven short distances at a time----How would you prepare that vehicle for a Car Show? What, (in order) steps do you recommend??

Thanks.

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post #107 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 07:22 PM
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Good Question David. I would like your recommendations also Josh!!!
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post #108 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Josh, what would be your recommended procedure with a BLACK vehicle that mainly stays uncovered in a garage that is driven short distances at a time----How would you prepare that vehicle for a Car Show? What, (in order) steps do you recommend??

Thanks.

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Good Question David. I would like your recommendations also Josh!!!


Show car prep can take days depending on how good you want it to look, but I'll try to give you a short answer off the top of my head.... most of this you guys probably already know based on seeing some of your SSR's in person.

This is the actual order I try to perform my detailing in as well.

Interior:
~Dust thoroughly
~Vacuum thoroughly
~303 Aerospace wipe down of everything to clean it all
~Zaino Z10 Leather conditioner on seats and steering wheel
~(NOTE, I do not treat the dash, doors or any other plastic areas with greasy petroleum products to enhance the darkness or shininess of those materials) I simply wipe them clean with the 303 water based cleaner so it looks natural and original.

Exterior:
~Wash rims, lug nuts, tires, wheel wells, inner rim drums (dawn soapy water) lots of little brushes involved
~Exhaust tips #0000 steel wool if needed
~Foam soapy prerinse
~Two bucket wash exterior top to bottom
~Boars hair brush in between panels and around lights and crevices
~Clay bar treatment (optional)
~Polish paint with DA (orbital machine) (optional)
~(Rewash after polishing)
~Rinse off
~Blow dry with electric leaf blower (240mph)
~QD wipe down
~Door jambs wipe down
~sometime you can use a boars hair brush on door jambs to get all the little areas clean if needed
~Wax/sealant of choice (optional)

~Clean windows with Stoners Invisible glass with a MF towel with the cleaner and a second MF towel that's perfectly dry to remove any possible streaks. (if you wash n dry MF towels with fabric softners this is where you'll see the residue transfer) so don't use fabric softness when cleaning MF towels.
~Wipe down chrome rims an extra time with dry MF towels to get any streaks and exhaust tips as well
~If you have painted rims, this is where you can use a Power Ball and power drill with paint polish to buff out and enhance the shine of the silver rims
~Tire dressing apply

Engine Bay:
(depending on how dirty it is) assuming it's really dirty:
~Old Wash mitt and dawn soapy water, wipe it down quick to knock off big dirts
~Boars hair brush in between all the little areas and nuts/bolts etc....
~Blow dry with electric leaf blower
~Wipe down with a MF towel
~303 aerospace on rubber hoses and plastics
~Another wipe down with a dry MF towels

~If engine parts are faded and gray you can apply some water based tire dressing diluted like 50/50 mix. Apply it to an old MF towel or what have you and wipe it on those parts till it looks darker but not unnaturally dark or shiny.

Understand I think the biggest differences in the way people clean/detail their cars has a lot to do with how thorough they are in the small areas around nuts and bolts and crevices between panel and such. Also some people wipe the finish dry with the same towel and end up with some streaks instead of using a QD and a dry MF towel to do a final wipe down. Little things like that can make a difference how perfect the car can look or not. just a thought.


Please keep in mind this is a very generic description as a fully detailed description is just way too much for me to even think about typing....

I'm sure theres things I'm leaving out so pleas free to chime in.


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post #109 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Josh, what would be your recommended procedure with a BLACK vehicle that mainly stays uncovered in a garage that is driven short distances at a time----How would you prepare that vehicle for a Car Show? What, (in order) steps do you recommend??

Thanks.

================
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For the record, black, yellow, red, silver I would treat all with the exact same process.

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post #110 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 04:27 AM
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For the record, black, yellow, red, silver I would treat all with the exact same process.
Thank You Josh much appreciated!!!
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post #111 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 06:12 AM
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Thank You Josh much appreciated!!!
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Ditto Josh. Thanks for the list. Looks like I should've started last August!!!

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post #112 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 10:41 AM
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Definitely admit to not being any sort of expert on this subject, so I thought I would ask a few questions of Josh and also post a few observations I have made over the years for some comments.

1) In your two bucket method, what do you mean by "bucket with water to get dirty"? Is that a rinse bucket for your mitts prior to dipping back into the soap bucket before washing the next panel? Also a firm believer in grit guards as well.

2) When mentioning the inner rim drums, I believe you referring to the backside (inside) of the rims. With these deep offset rims and highly visible backside, it is important to clean them thoroughly. I have seen that area often neglected on a number of R's and resultant pitting especially behind the spokes (brake dust and moisture are not a kind combination). I would recommend removing the wheels at least once a year to properly clean the backside (inner side) of the rims. This is also good in keeping the wheels broke free from the hubs (add a little nickel anti-seize to the hub prior to reinstalling the wheels "sparingly"). I too start with the wheels with a completely separate bucket and mitts, followed by top down method on the body using different buckets and mitts.

3) I have recently switched from my Leaf Blower to McKees 37 Turbo Blower. Jury is still out on how I like it. Great velocity, but not sure it has comparable CFM to my Toro blower, BUT definitely a lot more convenient to use. Was looking at cordless backpack blowers but the DeWalt model was $$$$$. One item I will mention is keep the vehicle where you washed it. The wet pavement will reduce the likelihood of blowing dirt off the ground back on your freshly washed vehicle. Don't be tempted to pull truck into the garage with dry (and dusty) floor prior to blowing. I open and close (quickly) all the doors about 3 times each prior to blowing.

4) I use clean (unprinted) newsprint to clean my windows along with Stoner products on factory windows, Sprayway (ammonia free) on inside of my tinted windows. The newsprint is soft enough to not scratch my tint and also leaves them streak/lint/residue free. You can get a box of clean newsprint at U-Haul moving stores.
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post #113 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely admit to not being any sort of expert on this subject, so I thought I would ask a few questions of Josh and also post a few observations I have made over the years for some comments.

1) In your two bucket method, what do you mean by "bucket with water to get dirty"? Is that a rinse bucket for your mitts prior to dipping back into the soap bucket before washing the next panel? Also a firm believer in grit guards as well.

Rinse bucket is a better word for it, yes I rinse the mitts off in the one bucket then back to the clean soapy bucket. (I even use 4-5 mitts so each mitt touch the paint less times which reduces chances of swirls)
Grit guards are great, I use them in both buckets


2) When mentioning the inner rim drums, I believe you referring to the backside (inside) of the rims. With these deep offset rims and highly visible backside, it is important to clean them thoroughly. I have seen that area often neglected on a number of R's and resultant pitting especially behind the spokes (brake dust and moisture are not a kind combination). I would recommend removing the wheels at least once a year to properly clean the backside (inner side) of the rims. This is also good in keeping the wheels broke free from the hubs (add a little nickel anti-seize to the hub prior to reinstalling the wheels "sparingly"). I too start with the wheels with a completely separate bucket and mitts, followed by top down method on the body using different buckets and mitts.

Yes, rim drums are inner area behind spokes, I use a bristled brush to clean them then the rim-wash mitt to clean directly behind the spokes as well and back side of spokes. And yes I use a separate bucket for rims.

3) I have recently switched from my Leaf Blower to McKees 37 Turbo Blower. Jury is still out on how I like it. Great velocity, but not sure it has comparable CFM to my Toro blower, BUT definitely a lot more convenient to use. Was looking at cordless backpack blowers but the DeWalt model was $$$$$. One item I will mention is keep the vehicle where you washed it. The wet pavement will reduce the likelihood of blowing dirt off the ground back on your freshly washed vehicle. Don't be tempted to pull truck into the garage with dry (and dusty) floor prior to blowing. I open and close (quickly) all the doors about 3 times each prior to blowing.

Good point about blowing it with the ground still wet, this will definitely reduce dust from kicking up better, however if the sun is out and it's hot I do pull it in to keep from getting spots

4) I use clean (unprinted) newsprint to clean my windows along with Stoner products on factory windows, Sprayway (ammonia free) on inside of my tinted windows. The newsprint is soft enough to not scratch my tint and also leaves them streak/lint/residue free. You can get a box of clean newsprint at U-Haul moving stores.
Also a good idea to just spritz a little water to clean inside the windows, it'll do the job as well with no risk to tint. Using news paper on the outside is not a bad idea, the oils from the ink will also help to add a slight layer on to the glass which should make for easier cleaning next time. I actually use the same QD on the exterior glass as I do on the paint so it puts a nice slickness on the glass.

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post #114 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 07:32 PM
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Which Microfiber duster? So many of them get bad reviews.
Curious as well.

Josh, when I use the Duster I dust in "straight" lines. I'm not swirling it. So I'm wondering why I would get swirls using it.

A more important question: If the truck is waxed or protected by another type of "coating", am In danger of adding scratches to the finish? I don't press down on the duster, I let the weight of the duster do the work. Love the duster, quick, easy and conserves water. (Although not sure we need to do that in Northern California after the last week or so).
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post #115 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Curious as well.

Josh, when I use the Duster I dust in "straight" lines. I'm not swirling it. So I'm wondering why I would get swirls using it.

A more important question: If the truck is waxed or protected by another type of "coating", am In danger of adding scratches to the finish? I don't press down on the duster, I let the weight of the duster do the work. Love the duster, quick, easy and conserves water. (Although not sure we need to do that in Northern California after the last week or so).

Its' only a matter of time I promise. Remember swirls are just micro scratches typically caused by dirt particles being dragged across the surface. Whether the swirls go in all directions looking swirly or go in straight lines it's still the same time of micro marring and micro scratch damage.

At first they aren't visible but over time they accumulate and will show through looking like very faint spider webs.

Do me a favor and at night, go into your garage, turn off all the lights so it's black and use a very bright LED flash light or some 500W hallogen work lights and look at the finish in the dark like that and see if you have swirls or not. DO NOT use the UV tube lights hanging form the ceiling, those are useless for showing swirls. You need a very bright focused beam.

I've seen very few cars without swirls, it is possible but very very few.

Tell me what you find...... I'm curious.


Josh

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post #116 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 12:20 AM
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Location: Montgomery, TX
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My SSR:
2004 Slingshot Yellow
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I use car wash that has polymer surfactants in it to sheet the rinse water. After completing wash and rinse, remove the hose nozzle and use a soft slow stream of water over the panels of the vehicle. Water will sheet off leaving much less drying to do and less chance of water spots. This is a must when outdoor washing in our southern climate. Water beads will leave calcium rings in seconds on a hot paint surface.
Polymer sealants are hydrophobic and will sheet water, carnuba wax is hydroscopic and will retain water causing beading.
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post #117 of 174 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 12:13 PM
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Location: Minnesnowda
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My SSR:
'06 Smokin' Asphalt / Ricochet Silver Metallic
Has anyone experience with a product called Top Coat?
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post #118 of 174 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Dallas TX
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My SSR:
2003 Slingshot Yellow SSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloce View Post
Has anyone experience with a product called Top Coat?
I just went to their website and checked it out. I do not have experience with this product but will still chime in if you'll entertain it.

The word "polish" is being used very liberally in my opinion. Typically in my experience the word polish is referring to an abrasive compound like liquid that works to remove flaws and such. This product, according to their website, does not remove flaws but fills in the flaws and scratches and also leaves a level of protection.

So it's a sealant that has fillers in it basically. You'd still need to prep the surface with clay bar or clay mitt and what not to remove any contamination.



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post #119 of 174 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 02:38 AM
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My SSR:
Silver on Black TVS2300 supercharged FPR 6 speed 4:10 #23387
Garage
I was cleaning the SSR with Zaino All In One cleaner/polish as a prep for several layers of Z5, and after checking using the baggie trick, found the surface still contained a lot of contaminants. That was a bit surprising considering how often the truck was washed and detailed last year.

Rather than using a claybar, I thought I'd try one of the Nano Skin foam pads I purchased last fall.

I was pleasantly surprised at how effective it was at removing contaminants. I use highly diluted Zaino detergent as a lubricant, instead of an expensive detailer. Any diluted auto detergent in a spray bottle will do nicely, for a Nano Skin or a claybar.

Big plus with the Nano Skin pad is the ease of cleaning. Drop it on the ground, just need to run it under a tap to rinse it and continue using it. Drop a claybar, and you're throwing it away. A claybar also deteriorates as you use it.

Negative is the working surface is black, so you don't get the satisfaction of seeing the contaminants as you do on a claybar - but you don't need to keep kneading for a fresh surface.

I would recommend trying one. I got good results using a fine pad.

Here's a link to the product on Autogeek. If you're a car cleaning freak, the range of products on Autogeek could bankrupt you, so proceed with caution.

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-spe...ine-grade.html

I had purchased these microfiber towels at the same time - also an excellent product. All other microfiber and cotton towels I have on the shelf will now be relegated to wheel polishing and tire cleaning. Ordering a bunch more of these.

I would recommend the 12 pack - much better value.

http://www.autogeek.net/gold-plush-jr-towel-3.html
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post #120 of 174 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 09:31 AM
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My SSR:
"Kate" a Haughty Redhead, '06 Redline FPR 6 spd. #23333 Build Date 2/16/06
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Glen/Glenda - Pole/Paul??
Polish Angel!
Never used the stuff but the name is certainly intriguing!

BTW, agree with Ray - used the nano skin and pleased.
If for no other reason, it got away from using the damn clay bar that I hated
Dropping the bar of soap in the shower in the men's locker room - dropping the clay bar on the garage floor - both very annoying!

Further BTW - really just an extension of what Josh already covered about wheels/tires - separate bucket
An advertising blurb on Car & Driver forum suggested using 303 Protectant on tires being a very important process preserving rubber, just as we do on our seals
I like to keep my tires very clean but hate (would never use) using the shiny crap - 303 serves this purpose
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